coiled40gary
76 FJ40; TLCA#6227
Oops, I got to start by apologizing for not being on the ball, i have my calendar marked for next week...
OK, I'll try to put a quick list together, I've been running this through my mind for a month now, and then missed the start gun
I have a '76 FJ40 that I've put a lot of work into over a long time. As custom as it will sound, it is still a lot Toyota Land Cruiser.
We'll start at the beginning...
I bought it in Arizona when it was 5 years old, and had only 29K miles for $4500. I was the 6th owner. It took only a month to figure out why; it looked brand spanking new, but burned a quart of oil a week, and finally died. I had little money, and it was my only transportation. I took one weekend and $200, I pulled the pistons out the bottom and saw the rings had never seated. I put new rings and rod bearings in it, ran a quick hone through it to be safe, sent the head to a shop to replace two burnt valves, and mill out the warp. It also had a leak in the top of the radiator, and I discovered that the radiator was completely filled with silver stop leak. I had it rodded out. I believe that this leak came from the factory, the original owner over heated the engine before the rings seated, so it burned oil and ran hot. Each owner then pored more stop leak in it, and sold it to the next guy. The buck stopped here, and it has been my daily driver and trail beater since.
In the beginning, there was no support, I had to figure out things on my own. I remember when I drove it from Tucson to Dubuque and back, I had a problem with it running rough then dieing when the sun went down. Ran great in the heat of the day. No matter what I did to it, even if I just kicked a tire, it started right up and run great, for thirty minutes of so. I later figured out I had a problem with carberator icing because I was running headers. But anyways, in Colorado I stopped in several shops to see if they could diagnose it, or let me have access to their Sun or Bear machine so I could see what the ignition was doing. Every shop said a Jeep, sure, then after a closer look, every shop refused to touch it, saying they knew nothing about Japanese Jeeps and would not waste the time. East of Colorado, I was quite the attention getter and subject of much CB chatter between the truckers. Back in those days Downey and Man-a-fre, the only choices available, both denied any problems with headers, and carb icing did not exist. So I put a plate under my intake manifold and connected my water jacket to it on my own, which is now an article in TT, I think June of 2000. OK, blah, blah blah, then about 7 or so years ago I learned about the mailing list and the TLCA, and that was the end of my ability to save any money, the start of real changes to my truck, and I learned that I was not the only sick puppy in this world .
The engine current configuration:
Original 2F.
Head has been milled a couple times, and the block, but I don't know how much. The rebuild went with .030 over on the cylindars.
Have the newer LC oil pump, which is what TPI sells as their high volume pump. I still have to run 20w50 oil to keep the pressure in operating range. The cam is modified, I've posted the specs before, which turned out to be the specs Mark W. recommends, I can find them if need be.
The alternator is a 65A self exciting GM (one wire), that has been running without issue for like 12 years so far.
The carb is the Webber 38, I've played a lot with the jetting, I mounted it backwards, so the throttle cable has one gentle bend, and all the adjustments are a lot easier to get to, even the mounting screws. I made my own adapter between the carb and stock air cleaner so I could get rid of that stack of adapters underneath. I use only the two metal ones that offset the mount. And with that I filed down the inside bolts, and eliminated the mounting studs for screws I could control the depth of, so I have no air leak issues beneath the carb any more. I modified the base of the carb to take the stock bolt pattern when I ran the stock exhaust manifold and stock heat isolater. With the stock heat isolator, I could notch out clearances for moving parts underneath the carb, but with the header, I don't want heat isolation, but need clearance underneath so I use two of the funky adapter parts. I'm now running a conicle K&N filter with a nylon cover over it (which according to the tests done by the ATV guys fixes the dust transmittance issue with K&N filters).
The distributer is a DUI HEI that was recurved mechanical only. When DUI recurved it, it was really bad, and the only help I got from them was, "if you think you know more than us, then do it yourself". So I worked with a local distributor shop and get a curve worked up that I'm happy with. I've posted that curve a few times, but I can find it again if need be. This ignition is mediocer, but I'm going with it because it frees up my fender of ignition parts. My fenders are empty and pop on and off for servicing the engine (this is a VERY nice feature). I have tried many different ignition combinations over the last 25 years.
I've got a Zena welder mostly mounted up, I still have to wire it and connect the auto throttle stuff.
Got Saganaw power steering because of the front lockers, but the best steering I've ever had was the manual Saganaw from a Camaro, easy steering with one palm, but complete feel of the road. Made the parts from 1" PTO shaft a collection of U-joints and yokes that interface to the stock column, the Saganaw box, and have 4" slip joint, I posted the parts list once a long time ago. Made a Delran donut to shove in the end of the stock steering column, the brass one from AA lasted two years, the Delran one is still going after more than 20. These parts all worked with the old manual Saganaw and the new power Saganaw.
Lets see, what else... I put in an electric fuel pump because I read that mechanical one that are far from the tank have vaper locking issues. Never had a problem until I put in the electric one. Then one winter the fuel line froze, that with the summer vapor locking problems, I relaid out the fuel system so it is all in the cab, the system is about 5' long, and I can see the flow in a glass filter from my drivers seat. Never had a problem again, any leak issues are realized and fixrd immediately, and most people who realize what they are looking at don't ask if they can smoke in my truck. The plusses just go on and on.
Body, still the origianl factory red paint, some of which is under a variety of red rattle can paints and primers, some POR 15, some Hurculiner and some Durabak. The under side of the tub is all covered with black Durabak, the inside of the tub is all covered with red Durabak.
I made my own 2" body lift, wrote an article on the details with lots of pictures, intended for TT, but not sure they are interested, and never quite wrapped it up.
The frame is painted on the outside with black Durabak and the inside with POR 15.
Made my own rock sliders / running boards from 2X5X1/4 steel tube, painted those with Hurculiner.
The suspension is the Warn XCL, now that is long story, that I suspect few are interrested in, but I like the suspension, not too radicle, will ramp only a 1000 or so. But that is with my wheel base being almost 10" longer than stock. I can pick any wheel three feet in the air, and the other three stay on the ground. Tons of up as well as down travel. A nice ride, but tips pretty good in the corners, first time passengers often gasp or scream. On the trail, the cab rides level through stagered ruts that most vehicles lift tires in. All those cool shots you see of people who run a front tire up the side of an embankment and get lots of air under the other front tire, then stop there for pictures... well I can't do that.
Under the heading of one year when the stock market was really good, I tried single handedly to convince Warn there was a market for LC stuff. Along with the XCL, I got the Birfield eliminator and the rear FF conversion. I also had Toyota electric third members put in the front and the back. (The actuator motors are currently burned out on both. Toyota want $650 for each, so I've got to get around to making my own actuators.)
The brakes are stock disks up front, and the Downey disk conversion in the rear. I really like this too, especially the independent adjustable proportioning valve. I took the stock proportioning valve out.
The rest of the drive line, the tranny is the H41 Toyota LC tranny with a 5:1 first gear, behind that I have the Orion, with a 4:1 low range. Still have the stock 4.10 R&Ps.
What am I forgetting... there are lots of little things, like I've plumbed the axle breathers, the locker breathers and the tcase breather all to a 2" K&N filter that I mounted just under the hood with a tin can water shield over it. All the electrical in the truck except the starter and welder are running off a Jacobs AccuVolt, which I've set to 14.1V +/- 0.1V. Aircraft landing lights from a military cargo plane. Eshan's replica of original soft top. 16.5 internal dual bead lock wheels with 37x12.5 IROKs. Eight point roll cage with a cradle for a scuba tank - my on-board air. I made my own rear half doors that are 2/3, 1/3 offset, so I can mount a 37" spare on the back without it sticking out past the body, and still open one of the back doors to get in and out. I made my own front bumper from 6" ship channel with D rings that bolt horizontally through the frame rails, rubber dock bumpers and a receiver.
The main future project interest is multiport fuel injection, like before Feb '07, when I have to pass DEQ again. Passing DEQ is just getting to be too much work and stress, and they won't give a 30 year old truck a break. That and I need to fix those lockers, and make a trailer. These IROKs are no rounder than the recaps I tried earlier, and I'm getting old, I would just feel so much better if I could trailer it to and from the trails, and start heading for trails a lot further away. Like trying my hand at Rubicon again, I want to try Moab, The Black Hills Cruiser Classic, TGSMTR, head back to Arizona...
Up until I just started a new job 30 miles away a couple weeks ago, I drove this to and from work nearly every day for 25 years. Now I have to drive my wife's Dodge Stealth R/T to work, it gets twice the milage.
It is late right now, and have to get up in a few hours to go to work, so I will post this now, again sorry for falling asleep on the job there, I just got back from a four day back-pack trip, checked the calendar, and saw I had this week to prepare for posting next week. Checked the forum on a fluke before going to bed and saw personal messages asking me what's up.
I will go out and take some fresh pictures in the day light after work tomorrow and post them. I've got lots of pictures from the many times when things were apart, but I'm already taking up lots of picture space on the forum, so I'll post any of those on request. Unfortunately I don't have any good trail pictures, can't take my own pictures while I'm driving, and others just aren't interested.
gary
OK, I'll try to put a quick list together, I've been running this through my mind for a month now, and then missed the start gun
I have a '76 FJ40 that I've put a lot of work into over a long time. As custom as it will sound, it is still a lot Toyota Land Cruiser.
We'll start at the beginning...
I bought it in Arizona when it was 5 years old, and had only 29K miles for $4500. I was the 6th owner. It took only a month to figure out why; it looked brand spanking new, but burned a quart of oil a week, and finally died. I had little money, and it was my only transportation. I took one weekend and $200, I pulled the pistons out the bottom and saw the rings had never seated. I put new rings and rod bearings in it, ran a quick hone through it to be safe, sent the head to a shop to replace two burnt valves, and mill out the warp. It also had a leak in the top of the radiator, and I discovered that the radiator was completely filled with silver stop leak. I had it rodded out. I believe that this leak came from the factory, the original owner over heated the engine before the rings seated, so it burned oil and ran hot. Each owner then pored more stop leak in it, and sold it to the next guy. The buck stopped here, and it has been my daily driver and trail beater since.
In the beginning, there was no support, I had to figure out things on my own. I remember when I drove it from Tucson to Dubuque and back, I had a problem with it running rough then dieing when the sun went down. Ran great in the heat of the day. No matter what I did to it, even if I just kicked a tire, it started right up and run great, for thirty minutes of so. I later figured out I had a problem with carberator icing because I was running headers. But anyways, in Colorado I stopped in several shops to see if they could diagnose it, or let me have access to their Sun or Bear machine so I could see what the ignition was doing. Every shop said a Jeep, sure, then after a closer look, every shop refused to touch it, saying they knew nothing about Japanese Jeeps and would not waste the time. East of Colorado, I was quite the attention getter and subject of much CB chatter between the truckers. Back in those days Downey and Man-a-fre, the only choices available, both denied any problems with headers, and carb icing did not exist. So I put a plate under my intake manifold and connected my water jacket to it on my own, which is now an article in TT, I think June of 2000. OK, blah, blah blah, then about 7 or so years ago I learned about the mailing list and the TLCA, and that was the end of my ability to save any money, the start of real changes to my truck, and I learned that I was not the only sick puppy in this world
.The engine current configuration:
Original 2F.
Head has been milled a couple times, and the block, but I don't know how much. The rebuild went with .030 over on the cylindars.
Have the newer LC oil pump, which is what TPI sells as their high volume pump. I still have to run 20w50 oil to keep the pressure in operating range. The cam is modified, I've posted the specs before, which turned out to be the specs Mark W. recommends, I can find them if need be.
The alternator is a 65A self exciting GM (one wire), that has been running without issue for like 12 years so far.
The carb is the Webber 38, I've played a lot with the jetting, I mounted it backwards, so the throttle cable has one gentle bend, and all the adjustments are a lot easier to get to, even the mounting screws. I made my own adapter between the carb and stock air cleaner so I could get rid of that stack of adapters underneath. I use only the two metal ones that offset the mount. And with that I filed down the inside bolts, and eliminated the mounting studs for screws I could control the depth of, so I have no air leak issues beneath the carb any more. I modified the base of the carb to take the stock bolt pattern when I ran the stock exhaust manifold and stock heat isolater. With the stock heat isolator, I could notch out clearances for moving parts underneath the carb, but with the header, I don't want heat isolation, but need clearance underneath so I use two of the funky adapter parts. I'm now running a conicle K&N filter with a nylon cover over it (which according to the tests done by the ATV guys fixes the dust transmittance issue with K&N filters).
The distributer is a DUI HEI that was recurved mechanical only. When DUI recurved it, it was really bad, and the only help I got from them was, "if you think you know more than us, then do it yourself". So I worked with a local distributor shop and get a curve worked up that I'm happy with. I've posted that curve a few times, but I can find it again if need be. This ignition is mediocer, but I'm going with it because it frees up my fender of ignition parts. My fenders are empty and pop on and off for servicing the engine (this is a VERY nice feature). I have tried many different ignition combinations over the last 25 years.
I've got a Zena welder mostly mounted up, I still have to wire it and connect the auto throttle stuff.
Got Saganaw power steering because of the front lockers, but the best steering I've ever had was the manual Saganaw from a Camaro, easy steering with one palm, but complete feel of the road. Made the parts from 1" PTO shaft a collection of U-joints and yokes that interface to the stock column, the Saganaw box, and have 4" slip joint, I posted the parts list once a long time ago. Made a Delran donut to shove in the end of the stock steering column, the brass one from AA lasted two years, the Delran one is still going after more than 20. These parts all worked with the old manual Saganaw and the new power Saganaw.
Lets see, what else... I put in an electric fuel pump because I read that mechanical one that are far from the tank have vaper locking issues. Never had a problem until I put in the electric one. Then one winter the fuel line froze, that with the summer vapor locking problems, I relaid out the fuel system so it is all in the cab, the system is about 5' long, and I can see the flow in a glass filter from my drivers seat. Never had a problem again, any leak issues are realized and fixrd immediately, and most people who realize what they are looking at don't ask if they can smoke in my truck. The plusses just go on and on.
Body, still the origianl factory red paint, some of which is under a variety of red rattle can paints and primers, some POR 15, some Hurculiner and some Durabak. The under side of the tub is all covered with black Durabak, the inside of the tub is all covered with red Durabak.
I made my own 2" body lift, wrote an article on the details with lots of pictures, intended for TT, but not sure they are interested, and never quite wrapped it up.
The frame is painted on the outside with black Durabak and the inside with POR 15.
Made my own rock sliders / running boards from 2X5X1/4 steel tube, painted those with Hurculiner.
The suspension is the Warn XCL, now that is long story, that I suspect few are interrested in, but I like the suspension, not too radicle, will ramp only a 1000 or so. But that is with my wheel base being almost 10" longer than stock. I can pick any wheel three feet in the air, and the other three stay on the ground. Tons of up as well as down travel. A nice ride, but tips pretty good in the corners, first time passengers often gasp or scream. On the trail, the cab rides level through stagered ruts that most vehicles lift tires in. All those cool shots you see of people who run a front tire up the side of an embankment and get lots of air under the other front tire, then stop there for pictures... well I can't do that.
Under the heading of one year when the stock market was really good, I tried single handedly to convince Warn there was a market for LC stuff. Along with the XCL, I got the Birfield eliminator and the rear FF conversion. I also had Toyota electric third members put in the front and the back. (The actuator motors are currently burned out on both. Toyota want $650 for each, so I've got to get around to making my own actuators.)
The brakes are stock disks up front, and the Downey disk conversion in the rear. I really like this too, especially the independent adjustable proportioning valve. I took the stock proportioning valve out.
The rest of the drive line, the tranny is the H41 Toyota LC tranny with a 5:1 first gear, behind that I have the Orion, with a 4:1 low range. Still have the stock 4.10 R&Ps.
What am I forgetting... there are lots of little things, like I've plumbed the axle breathers, the locker breathers and the tcase breather all to a 2" K&N filter that I mounted just under the hood with a tin can water shield over it. All the electrical in the truck except the starter and welder are running off a Jacobs AccuVolt, which I've set to 14.1V +/- 0.1V. Aircraft landing lights from a military cargo plane. Eshan's replica of original soft top. 16.5 internal dual bead lock wheels with 37x12.5 IROKs. Eight point roll cage with a cradle for a scuba tank - my on-board air. I made my own rear half doors that are 2/3, 1/3 offset, so I can mount a 37" spare on the back without it sticking out past the body, and still open one of the back doors to get in and out. I made my own front bumper from 6" ship channel with D rings that bolt horizontally through the frame rails, rubber dock bumpers and a receiver.
The main future project interest is multiport fuel injection, like before Feb '07, when I have to pass DEQ again. Passing DEQ is just getting to be too much work and stress, and they won't give a 30 year old truck a break. That and I need to fix those lockers, and make a trailer. These IROKs are no rounder than the recaps I tried earlier, and I'm getting old, I would just feel so much better if I could trailer it to and from the trails, and start heading for trails a lot further away. Like trying my hand at Rubicon again, I want to try Moab, The Black Hills Cruiser Classic, TGSMTR, head back to Arizona...
Up until I just started a new job 30 miles away a couple weeks ago, I drove this to and from work nearly every day for 25 years. Now I have to drive my wife's Dodge Stealth R/T to work, it gets twice the milage.
It is late right now, and have to get up in a few hours to go to work, so I will post this now, again sorry for falling asleep on the job there, I just got back from a four day back-pack trip, checked the calendar, and saw I had this week to prepare for posting next week. Checked the forum on a fluke before going to bed and saw personal messages asking me what's up.
I will go out and take some fresh pictures in the day light after work tomorrow and post them. I've got lots of pictures from the many times when things were apart, but I'm already taking up lots of picture space on the forum, so I'll post any of those on request. Unfortunately I don't have any good trail pictures, can't take my own pictures while I'm driving, and others just aren't interested.
gary
