That looks amazing Kevin - fabulous work!!!
I have 24 days to build this trailer (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Awl_TEQ
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Not surprised by the quality of the work kevin, but I am amazed how quickly you through it together while not compromising on anything.
You planning to put checker plate alloy or skateboard grip tape on the top portions along the wheel wells? I'd hate to see someone scratch up all that fancy powder coating.
I bet your gonna have people asking for you to make more as per your 45 boxes.
You planning to put checker plate alloy or skateboard grip tape on the top portions along the wheel wells? I'd hate to see someone scratch up all that fancy powder coating.
I bet your gonna have people asking for you to make more as per your 45 boxes.
Unreal.
Where are the other pics? Get your RTT lift sorted?
Where are the other pics? Get your RTT lift sorted?
Fan - Freakin - Tastic!
Awl_TEQ
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #87
Thanks guys! It was a lot of work in a short time and there are some minor changes and finishing touches planned. I am going to have to join the back corners with a crossbar. The gas shock for the lid pushes the rear apart with 150# of force and it flexes out over an inch making the lid fit ugly. So I will make a new tailgate that is 1.75" shorter and make a bar that will bolt in across the top of the rear corners. This will also solve the issue of the lid seal/ tailgate seal interface. Right now I have to open the lid a bit in order to open the tailgate.
Also, I agree with the above comment about the ugly hinges. The hinges I used were just Home Depot gate hinges that I grabbed last minute. I did not have time to source or build proper hinges at the time. The tailgate also needs chains or cable to stop it swinging down. Just ordered those this morning from McMaster Carr. The lid latches were never installed (time shortage) so I used a strap to hold it shut on the trip to Moab. The rear drop down legs are too short. I knew that going in but had no time to think up a solution. I just used blocks of wood to make up the difference. I will now make telescoping legs to get some more length. The park brake was never installed so I can do that as well. When the tent was up there was very little wobble even without the park brake to stabilize the trailer. In fact I would have to say the tent was less wobbly than when I had it on top of the truck.
One thing I completely missed while formulating the concept and layout was the effect of my diesel exhaust. My exhaust exits at the left rear corner of the BJ42 and so the left side of the trailer was covered in black soot. This was very annoying because that is the side one must be on to open the lid. Every time I did so I ended up with black hands and clothing. Maybe I'm whining but I got tired of washing my hands in a camping environment without a proper sink. Luckily my high EGT's and small diameter stock exhaust has forced me to order some stainless 2.5" U-bends/ tube/ v-band clamps and flex fitting to run a new pipe from the turbo to the right side rear corner. There is nothing I can do about the soot but at least I can put it on the other side.
I will keep the thread updated as I work through these finishing touches.
Also, I agree with the above comment about the ugly hinges. The hinges I used were just Home Depot gate hinges that I grabbed last minute. I did not have time to source or build proper hinges at the time. The tailgate also needs chains or cable to stop it swinging down. Just ordered those this morning from McMaster Carr. The lid latches were never installed (time shortage) so I used a strap to hold it shut on the trip to Moab. The rear drop down legs are too short. I knew that going in but had no time to think up a solution. I just used blocks of wood to make up the difference. I will now make telescoping legs to get some more length. The park brake was never installed so I can do that as well. When the tent was up there was very little wobble even without the park brake to stabilize the trailer. In fact I would have to say the tent was less wobbly than when I had it on top of the truck.
One thing I completely missed while formulating the concept and layout was the effect of my diesel exhaust. My exhaust exits at the left rear corner of the BJ42 and so the left side of the trailer was covered in black soot. This was very annoying because that is the side one must be on to open the lid. Every time I did so I ended up with black hands and clothing. Maybe I'm whining but I got tired of washing my hands in a camping environment without a proper sink. Luckily my high EGT's and small diameter stock exhaust has forced me to order some stainless 2.5" U-bends/ tube/ v-band clamps and flex fitting to run a new pipe from the turbo to the right side rear corner. There is nothing I can do about the soot but at least I can put it on the other side.
I will keep the thread updated as I work through these finishing touches.
I figured the hinges were just a quick fix. This build is awesome the trailer looks great.
Please post more build pictures.
Please post more build pictures.
Awl_TEQ
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #89
I finished off the lid latch install so it closes and latches now. I think I will add a couple of the typical draw latches that tent trailer makers use to pull the tops down on their trailers. The latches I bought have plastic keepers in the slides and I think a little more secure hold down is required for the trail. These latches will work fine on the street but the added banging and bouncing on the trail would surely bust them.
Very nice... skill envy goin' on here.
Hey, I had this really crazy idea that I got from your build. I have a aqualu long box style shortened I am planning to use for a trailer.
Its in planning ( as in not enough $$$ ), but what about relocating the rtt supports to under the lid, and therefore lifting the whole
lid as a unit? I know the lid would shift either back or forwards. If backwards, would make for a covered area, soot free, total access
to contents.
Then of course, if you figure it out you could l me know how you did it.
Its in planning ( as in not enough $$$ ), but what about relocating the rtt supports to under the lid, and therefore lifting the whole
lid as a unit? I know the lid would shift either back or forwards. If backwards, would make for a covered area, soot free, total access
to contents.
Then of course, if you figure it out you could l me know how you did it.
So with the tent fully deployed like that, trailer stabilized and anchored, how wobbly is it up there?
Cruisin'
Out in the shop, building something cool!
I didn't catch any pics of the struts that keep the lid open. Curious where you mounted each end on those.
Fantastic build. I'm very impressed.
Fantastic build. I'm very impressed.
Awl_TEQ
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #96
It is at least as stable as when the RTT is on the truck if not more. Once I connect the park brake I expect it will be even more so with the wheels resisting motion. The trailer suspension is quite stiff and so it doesn't move up and down as much as the truck did. This same effect lessens the side to side motion as well.
I haven't touched the trailer in a week/ 10 days but will be tinkering with it yet this summer. I might take it on a trail run up to Ruby Lake on the July long weekend. The trail to Ruby is fairly light with two mud holes and a long stretch up a riverbed with watermelon sized rocks. I envision using the winch at least once getting back through the one mud hole as there is a 4' ledge at the one end.
Thanks. I read the thread again and still don't know how you can crank this stuff out!
Awl_TEQ
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #100
Me too! I read it all again to reacquaint myself with all the little things I want to finish up.
I'm making:
- a new tailgate assembly with support cables. I'm adding a connection across the top of the gate and shortening the gate a couple inches. And I never did put the gate cables on.
- new latching system for the lid. Thinking of using 40series door latches to get a real positive latch with a built in safety.
- finally going to hook up the park brake cables and lever.
- new hinges for the gate and lid. Thinking of stainless piano hinge for full support.
- might make a drawbar with a standard ball hitch to tow with the wife's Rav4. But all the lights are 24V so maybe not.
I'm making:
- a new tailgate assembly with support cables. I'm adding a connection across the top of the gate and shortening the gate a couple inches. And I never did put the gate cables on.
- new latching system for the lid. Thinking of using 40series door latches to get a real positive latch with a built in safety.
- finally going to hook up the park brake cables and lever.
- new hinges for the gate and lid. Thinking of stainless piano hinge for full support.
- might make a drawbar with a standard ball hitch to tow with the wife's Rav4. But all the lights are 24V so maybe not.
