I think the LED replacements are either available in a 12V or a 10-30V range- that would cover both rigs..
I have 24 days to build this trailer (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Awl_TEQ
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Excellent build photos. My design was similar, and the flexing issues you experienced were the same as I was warned about.
I also need to have the tailgate open fully, but my tailgate needs to be stretched to 48" wide opening.... And lengthened also.
Have you had any wear issues in the soft aluminum? Bolts / screws moving and causing the holes to 'wollar' open?
Curious as to the details on the side panel ribbing. Any additional photos or detail on the cutouts / welding? I was planning to weld flat bar onto my exterior side wall....
The Dexter 3500# axle springs are listed at only 26" long, while the original springs appear to scale / measure closer to 36"
Any concerns on your decision to go aluminum vs steel? Any unpublished advise?
I also need to have the tailgate open fully, but my tailgate needs to be stretched to 48" wide opening.... And lengthened also.
Have you had any wear issues in the soft aluminum? Bolts / screws moving and causing the holes to 'wollar' open?
Curious as to the details on the side panel ribbing. Any additional photos or detail on the cutouts / welding? I was planning to weld flat bar onto my exterior side wall....
The Dexter 3500# axle springs are listed at only 26" long, while the original springs appear to scale / measure closer to 36"
Any concerns on your decision to go aluminum vs steel? Any unpublished advise?
Awl_TEQ
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #103
No wear issues. Keeping all fasteners tight should prevent holes getting obround.
Welding on flatbar to mimic the ribs would work too and is prolly easier that what I did. I slit the metal then bent it closing up the slits. Then weld and grind smooth before bending the top rail profile.
Only regret is making the frame too heavy. Should have gone with C-channel or thinner tubing to reduce weight even further. Although the frame I made is bomb proof and can easily take the full 3500# axle limit.
Welding on flatbar to mimic the ribs would work too and is prolly easier that what I did. I slit the metal then bent it closing up the slits. Then weld and grind smooth before bending the top rail profile.
Only regret is making the frame too heavy. Should have gone with C-channel or thinner tubing to reduce weight even further. Although the frame I made is bomb proof and can easily take the full 3500# axle limit.
Thanks for the additional feedback, Kevin. We discussed C channel vs 2" box vs 2x3 box for the frame. The original M416 had folded steel sheeting it appears, so using box is overkill on their already proven design. My metal guy said that the cost for him to fold the steel sheet would be higher, and that is why he suggest going with box tubing. I'll be getting a 2nd opinion based on your feedback, and reconsidering C channel or thinner tubing.
I think I will follow up and ask for his input on using an even thinner 2x2 wall box tubing, was planning on using .1/4 but may look at 3/16
I really liked the plate that you fabbed to strengthen the draw bars to the frame :
I especially liked how you 'made' the ribs. I plan to Line-X my tub once complete, so I may be able to get the rigidity I need by tacking the flatbar ribs to floor of the trailer.... but with the rear tailgate, open, I HAVE TO FIND A WAY TO FULLY BRACE THE TOP PERIMETER in order for the tub to support a RTT. I might have to go with an exoskeleton frame at the rear or a cross bar that drops in to bridge the opening.... or some kind of combination.
I also liked how you dropped the recessed D-rings into the sides.... Any concerns with how much they protrude / prevent adding attachements to corners?
I think I will follow up and ask for his input on using an even thinner 2x2 wall box tubing, was planning on using .1/4 but may look at 3/16
I really liked the plate that you fabbed to strengthen the draw bars to the frame :
picked up the axle Tuesday and brought home the tubing for the frame. 6 on 5.5 hubs with parking brake (and electric brakes), 3500# cap.
View attachment 881788
Got some assembly done last night. Somehow I have three square corners!
View attachment 881789
View attachment 881790
View attachment 881791
I especially liked how you 'made' the ribs. I plan to Line-X my tub once complete, so I may be able to get the rigidity I need by tacking the flatbar ribs to floor of the trailer.... but with the rear tailgate, open, I HAVE TO FIND A WAY TO FULLY BRACE THE TOP PERIMETER in order for the tub to support a RTT. I might have to go with an exoskeleton frame at the rear or a cross bar that drops in to bridge the opening.... or some kind of combination.
I also liked how you dropped the recessed D-rings into the sides.... Any concerns with how much they protrude / prevent adding attachements to corners?
Awl_TEQ
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #105
I would go lighter than .188 wall tube. You can get .125/.100/.065". I would do .125 or .100". The thing to remember is that the assembled structure is stonger than the individual parts. The thing is only gonna be 6-8' long and the front half is doubled up and triangulated with the A frame towbar.
I went with tube to have a sealed frame from the mud. But then I ran the electical through and had to drill holes for drainage anyway.
I have a permanent cross bar at the back to maintain the lid perimeter.
Not sure what you're asking about the D rings. They are the same on the military trailers and don't get in the way. Oh, you mean do the prevent mounting stuff on the outer corners? No more than the overhang of the side rail does. I prefer my stuff "in" the trailer to keep it from caking with mud.
I went with tube to have a sealed frame from the mud. But then I ran the electical through and had to drill holes for drainage anyway.
I have a permanent cross bar at the back to maintain the lid perimeter.
Not sure what you're asking about the D rings. They are the same on the military trailers and don't get in the way. Oh, you mean do the prevent mounting stuff on the outer corners? No more than the overhang of the side rail does. I prefer my stuff "in" the trailer to keep it from caking with mud.
