How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics (2 Viewers)

[Zane]

Thanks for the write up Zane!

I was just told today by my dealer that this seal and the front crank seal needed to be replaced and he would only charge me $1100 to do it.

Any guess at the time spent on this fix? Did you do the crank seal at the same time?

Chris

Chris,

Sorry for the delayed response. It took me about 2 1/2 to 3 hours to complete the job. Well worth the time. I checked with my local dealer to see how much this job would cost and it was the same price you were quoted. I figured it would be well worth the time to do it my self.

Yes I did the front crank shaft seal at the same time.

Zane

 

[Webster]

Did this job on Saturday. Took 5 hours including an hour running to Napa and the tool rental place.

Very easy and worked just as described. $100 in parts and tool rental was a heck of lot cheaper than the $1100 the dealer quoted!

Just some notes from my memory.....

I found a heavy duty strap wrench ($18) at Napa that worked perfect to hold the crank pulley while torqueing it. Had a short handle so use a pipe as a cheater.

I found stainless steel allen head screws to replace the phillips with at a store called Fasteners. ($.18 each and Toyota wanted $2.** for the standard screw!)

I did use a small bead of FIPG in the groove to hold the o0ring seal and a small amount on the cover as well. So far no leaks!

The PVC pipe tip was perfect, thanks!

Thanks for posting these articles guys!!

Chris

 

[Beowulf]

I found stainless steel allen head screws to replace the phillips with at a store called Fasteners. ($.18 each and Toyota wanted $2.** for the standard screw!)

Help me with this guys...

What is the advantage of an Allen head vs a Phillips head? I've had just as many Allen head screws buggered as I've head Phillips head screws. When an Allen head gets messed up it rounds out. Will the Allen head allow more purchase somehow?

-B-

 

[Rookie2]

Help me with this guys...

What is the advantage of an Allen head vs a Phillips head? I've had just as many Allen head screws buggered as I've head Phillips head screws. When an Allen head gets messed up it rounds out. Will the Allen head allow more purchase somehow?

-B-

You understand with the process indicated above, you don't have a straight-on shot at the Philips head like you normally would, right??

You're having to do it rachet style, so yes... in this configuration Allen head should equal better purchase and is not dependent on having to put force on the back of the ratchet head like you would to seat and unseat a philips head type screw.

 

[MikeB]

Help me with this guys...

What is the advantage of an Allen head vs a Phillips head? I've had just as many Allen head screws buggered as I've head Phillips head screws. When an Allen head gets messed up it rounds out. Will the Allen head allow more purchase somehow?

-B-

The black screws with 4mm allen heads are grade 10.9. I doubt that they will strip. The Toyota phillips screws are ungraded and quite soft.

The biggest benefit is that there is no cam-out force to fight with allen heads.

 

[Webster]

Forgot to mention that I did lap my cover.

I think this is a critical step.

While lapping it became apparent that I had a low spot in my cover at the bottom where the leak was the worst. It took quite a while to remove this low spot.

 

[Rookie2]

I found stainless steel allen head screws to replace the phillips with at a store called Fasteners. ($.18 each and Toyota wanted $2.** for the standard screw!)

Do you know if that store has a web site? I could get some from McMaster, but they only sale them by the 100's.

Thanks,
Rookie2

 

[Webster]

Fasteners website

http://www.gotbolts.com/

 

[Rookie2]

Fasteners website

http://www.gotbolts.com/

Thanks. I'll check it out.

 

[ElJefe]

Beo,

If you recall, my pump cover went back on, un-lapped, with sylglide on the o ring, and over 2 years later it is still bone dry.

Offshore we religiously use the Dow Corning 55 o-ring lube for every o-ring on any of the ROV's. In the hydraulic systems and for the sealing o-rings for the electronic cans. I never had one leak. The Dow 55 is incredible stuff. I'm pretty sure that you can get it at Grainger for $15-ish a tube.

 

[MLX450]

Offshore we religiously use the Dow Corning 55 o-ring lube for every o-ring on any of the ROV's. In the hydraulic systems and for the sealing o-rings for the electronic cans. I never had one leak. The Dow 55 is incredible stuff. I'm pretty sure that you can get it at Grainger for $15-ish a tube.

Ahhhh good old "DC 55". We use that to lubricate o rings on our systems.

 

[Nomis]

I completed this repair over the weekend. Thanks for the write-up Zane. The only thing I would add is you don't have to remove the steering stabilizer completely - just unbolt the two 14mm bolts on the pax side and swing it out of the way. Also, make sure you have the 30mm socket on hand for the crank - I did not and had to pick one up. Also, it looks like the crank has two bolt holes on it - for the SST to bolt on to, in order to lock it in place when tightening it back up. I did not use these - but maybe someone could fab up a tool to aid in locking the crank in place - so you can torque it down to spec. - should be better than a chain wrench. I actually put a dab of blue Loctite on the crank bolt as cheap insurance.

On more thing, the crank seal rest up against a thin aluminum ridge or lip that is behind it - don't get overzealous with the seal puller as it looks like it could be easily damaged. Same goes for the crank itself - use a towel around whatever you are using as a puller to protect the crank from scratches - I nicked mine and had to remove the nick with some 1500 grit sandpaper to get it smooth again - good as new now.

 

[Rookie2]

Cool.

What'd you use for fasteners, and did you sand the cover plate down smooth (lap it)?

 

[Nomis]

Cool.

What'd you use for fasteners, and did you sand the cover plate down smooth (lap it)?

Yep, I actually sprayed a fine mist of black spray paint as a guide coat to find the high and low spots and then sanded it down using 1500 grit - as I didn't want to remove too much material too quickly - I did this by hand and it took a while. I replaced the fasteners with new OEM screws from Toyota.

 

[landtank]

Just did this on my truck, what a pain in the ass. First I broke a bit and then only got 4 of them out cleanly. So a right angle drill and a 7/32 drill bit and I drilled the heads off.

The problem with these screws is the shape of the head. It's the long taper that locks them in and not the threads. I have to deal with this all the time on the job as flat heads are used everywhere.

The company's solution was to go from a hex socket head to a torx socket head. I did the same here. The screw is a M6 x 12 TORX socket flat head. The different screws might give the next guy fits but if it's me I'll be happy to grab my T-30 and easily remove the stubborn bastids.

 

[DTAYLOR]

Exellent idea! Where do you get these?

 

[landtank]

Exellent idea! Where do you get these?

There is a metric screw place near by and they stock them. You could check Grainger's as they are now stocking fasteners. They have an online catalog. I'm sure McMaster-Carr online also carries them.

 

[concretejungle]

Rick, is there room for the tool and do you think an impact driver would have kept them from breaking?

 

[landtank]

I pulled the fan and the shroud, it's pretty tight in there. I just had enough room for the right angle drill and the bit. I should have probably cut the bit down as there still was a little angle when I was drilling.

Thing is my truck is almost eleven years old and has 200k on it. I'd do 5 PHHs before this job.

Had I known I would of had the screws and seal in hand years ago and did it as a PM with hopes of it going better.

 

[Rookie2]

Rick, is there room for the tool and do you think an impact driver would have kept them from breaking?

May be room for the tool, but I don't think there's room and to get any kind of swing at it.