How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics (2 Viewers)

[Rookie2]

Had I known I would of had the screws and seal in hand years ago and did it as a PM with hopes of it going better.

So did yours go out big time, or did you just get tired of looking at it seep?

 

[landtank]

So did yours go out big time, or did you just get tired of looking at it seep?

Only oil leak in the truck, I took care of the rear arch seal in the spring. I first thought it was the crank sensor but then figured it was the pump seal instead. It was only seeping but drove me nuts.

 

[Rookie2]

Only oil leak in the truck, I took care of the rear arch seal in the spring. I first thought it was the crank sensor but then figured it was the pump seal instead. It was only seeping but drove me nuts.

That's kind of were I'm at, but after your experience, may wait it out.

What do you think about something like this in lieu of buying a compact right angle drill?

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...BV_EngineID=ccdjaddjhdlimljcefecemldffidfno.0

 

[landtank]

That might work but could also self destruct if you had a few heads to drill out. Home Depot rents the Milwaukee right angle drill in 4 hour chunks. I'd go that route if you ended up needing to drill the heads. And a new bit as well.

 

[DTAYLOR]

Here's where I'm at...

Rick,

Here's where I'm at right now. I just had the thing completely overhauled, but on the chance the oil pump seal my need to be replaced down the road.

Would you replace the fasteners if this was your rig?

 

[landtank]

Absolutely, the oil pump seal, fasteners and the front crank oil seal. It's as open as it's ever going to be and the total for everything is most likely under $20.00.

 

[DTAYLOR]

to be clear

Absolutely, the oil pump seal, fasteners and the front crank oil seal. It's as open as it's ever going to be and the total for everything is most likely under $20.00.

All the seals were just replaced in the overhaul process. I am talking fasteners only now.

 

[landtank]

If you can get them easy enough I would. Just change them out one at a time. That's assuming the vibration damper won't be a problem getting off and torqued back on.

 

[Rookie2]

So did you guys come up with any good idea for handling the 300 plus foot-pounds of torque or just got to suck it up and go rent one from a specialty tool company?

 

[landtank]

I borrowed a torque wrench this time but rented one the last time. Last time I had a chance to buy a used 3/4" snap on click set for 75.00 and passed on it, what an idiot!

 

[drnls]

I'm planning on starting this tonight - do I need to drain the oil? I have all the parts, and torque wrench. Still need some type of strap wrench. What grit sand paper did everyone use? Thanks, Nelson

 

[Rookie2]

I'm planning on starting this tonight - do I need to drain the oil?

I wouldn't think so, as long as you keep all the pieces and bits out of it. I'm not sure where the oil level comes up to, you may have a little come out when you remove the seal.

What grit sand paper did everyone use?

Raventai did a nice post on this and explained the lapping process and what sand paper to use to get it where it needs to be. If I recall, it's some pretty fine grit stuff, not available at the local Wal-mart. Try a search using keywords Lap or Lapping, and Raventai as username.

So where did you get your torque wrench?


Rookie2

 

[Webster]

I didn't drain the oil. A little bit drained out of the pump when I removed the cover. Not that much though.

 

[drnls]

Rookie - torque wrench is my dad's. He also has a 3/4" set with breaker bar. Bastard is about 4' long. Nothing like having a mechanic in the family. Nelson

 

[Rookie2]

Okay Landtank, one last question for you. IIRC, I've read on here that it is very bad to turn the crank in the wrong direction. When putting a tool like this on (to remove the bolt), it "seems" inevitably there will be some backward movement in the crank, until the tool is firmly seated. You know what I'm saying... is this potentially bad for business, or am I just dreaming sh!t up now?

Thanks,
Rookie2

 

[landtank]

The only time I've heard of a problem turning the motor backwards was when the sprocket was off of the cam shaft during a HG repair. The chain had plenty of slop and got caught up on the guides. I've turned my crank backwards while assembled many times without issue.

 

[NaterGator]

Estimate of how many banana job this is?

I just changed my valve cover gasket in hopes of pinning down most of my oil leaks, and while it helped, I'm still seeping at the front of the motor and I can only suspect it is the oil pump cover seeping.

-----Nate

 

[Webster]

I found this to be a pretty simple job thanks to the how article posted earlier by another member.

Took me 4 1/2 hours not counting the time spent gathering the tools and parts.

The key really was being prepared with the write up and the right tools.
Make sure to have new screws for the cover. You will need them no doubt. They are cheap insurance against the hassle of stopping the job and going out to try and find them at an inconveninent hour or on the weekend.

 

[Zane]

Wow, I'm happy this post has been helpful to those who have had to do the job. Excellent suggestions regarding going with different screw heads than the Phillips that Toyota provides. The job is really not all that hard as long as you have the correct Phillips #3 bit and go slow to not strip out the heads.

I didn’t use any power tools, just tap the Philips bit lightly with a small hammer to help loosen any lock tight and insure the bit is in there tight as shown in the photos and loosen with socket wrench. I say its a or job pending how lucky you are to not strip out a screw head.

Zane

 

[Gumby]

Very nice thread. The tapping trick was helpful. I don't know if it helped seat the bit a little or helped break loose the thread locker.

I came close to pulling the radiator to get an impact driver in there. Glad I decided to check this out first.

Thanks!

I used Vasiline to hold the o-ring gasket.