How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by Zane, Dec 25, 2005.

  1. Zane

    Zane

    Messages:
    969
    Location:
    Kansas City, Missouri
    I recently noticed that I had an oil leak coming from the front of my motor. After cleaning up the front of the motor to determine where the leak was coming from it was easy to see that it was coming from where the oil pump cover mated to the timing chain cover. I crawled under the truck once running and oil was coming out in a slow but steady stream from the area shown in the attached picture below.
    leak areas04.jpg

    After reading several posts on what others have done when they have had a bad oil pump seal I was concerned that I would end up having to pull the timing chain cover to get the philips head bolts off that hold the oil pump cover on. I went ahead and took a gamble and decided I would try and pull the oil pump cover off without removing the timing chain cover as well as the Radiator. I spent quite a bit of time thinking about how I would do this to keep from stripping out the heads as they are very soft and tend to strip out easily as others have said. For those of you that need to replace or may someday need to replace this seal I have documented a successful method of removing the oil pump cover in place, on the motor, that I have found made this a very easy task.

    There is no way you can do this with a standard screwdriver as there is not enough room with the radiator in place, as well as you can not get enough leverage to turn the bolts. What you will need to purchase is a short #3 philips head bit that will fit on a 1/4 inch socket. This will allow you to get the leverage you need using a ratchet. I purchased several different short #3 philips head bits from different stores to find the one that had the tightest fit. The one that had the best fit was from Harbor Freight. See attached picture of needed philips head. I purchased two just in case.
    #3 philips head.jpg

    These are the steps I took to complete this job:

    Step One: Remove all belts as well as the fan clutch. To remove fan and clutch take top two bolts off of fan shroud that attach it to the top of the radiator. Once you have all four bolts pulled that hold the fan clutch on, pull the fan and clutch out between the shroud and radiator being careful not damage your radiator.
    Step Two: Remove steering stabilizer and small front splash shield.
    Step Three: I drained motor oil as I replaced the front crank shaft seal. (don’t know if I needed to do this, but I didnt want any surprises while doing the job)
    Step Four: Remove crank shaft pulley. Use ¾ inch 30mm socket w/ breaker bar placed under passenger side of frame. Disconnect distributor lead. Then bump the starter and the bolt will break loose.
    Step Five: Remove Idler puller (I replaced new from Toyota)
    Step Six: Take your short #3 philips head bit and place it in one of the screws holding the oil pump cover in place. Tap it with a small hammer for about 30 seconds. Be careful not to accidentally hit your radiator. I found that this does two things. It seats the philips bit into the head and shocks the bolt helping loosen things up.
    Tapping philips 3.jpg

    continued on next post...
    leak areas04.jpg #3 philips head.jpg Tapping philips 3.jpg
  2. Zane

    Zane

    Messages:
    969
    Location:
    Kansas City, Missouri
    Step Seven: Attached your driver to the philips bit after tapping on it and place your right hand flat against the end of the ratchet keeping pressure on the bit to the bolt. Use your left hand to loosen the bolt. Take your time and apply pressure slowly. Not a single philips head stripped out on me and came out. I ended up having to apply quite a bit of foot pounds to loosen each one, but remember to do is slowly. Do this to all phillips head bolts holding the oil pump cover in place. The key to this is a bit that fits perfectly!
    ratchet and #03 philips.jpg

    Step Eight: Place something directly under the oil pump to catch the small amount of oil that will come out when you pull the cover off.
    Step Nine: Use a small flat head screwdriver and lightly pry the cover off.
    prying Oil pump cover01.jpg

    Step Ten: Remove old seal using the same flathead screwdriver. Clean up old oil off cover and surrounding area. Make sure not to get dirt in the pump area.
    Oil pump seal.jpg
    ratchet and #03 philips.jpg prying Oil pump cover01.jpg Oil pump seal.jpg
  3. Zane

    Zane

    Messages:
    969
    Location:
    Kansas City, Missouri

    Step Eleven: Replace seal with new one. Place new rubber seal in grove using some engine oil to hold the seal in place.
    Step Twelve: Place oil pump cover back in place without moving seal out of its grove. Use new Philips bolts from Toyota to replace the old ones.
    Step Thirteen: Tighten philips bolts in chris cross pattern using short philips bit and ratchet. There is no ft/lbs spec in the FSM for these Philips bolts so I made them fairly tight making sure not to strip out the heads.
    Step Fourteen: Replace front crank shaft seal (just because you are in there). Pull old seal out with seal puller or screwdriver. Put new seal in, by placing some motor oil around seal for easy placement. Make sure it is seated well.
    project complete.jpg

    Step Fifteen through Seventeen I will be doing tomorow
    Step Fifteen: Put Crank shaft pulley back in place. Thread nut back in place by hand. Use good chain pliers to wrap around the pulley to keep motor from turning when lighting bolt. Place a rubber hose around chain to keep from damaging pulley. Use Torque wrench that will go up to 310 ft/lbs. Place bar in place to keep chain pliers from spinning and tighten using torque wrench. Or have some one attempt to hold it??? I am able to rent this torque wrench from a local rental store in town for a small fee.
    Step Sixteen: Replace Idler pulley (new from Toyota), put fan and clutch back in place, replace two bolts holding top of shroud, Put belts back in (replace with OEM if yours are old), fill engine back up with oil.
    Step Seventeen: Have a cold beer and smile at all the money and time you just saved yourself!

    project complete.jpg
  4. 4x4CPOSEADOG

    4x4CPOSEADOG SILVER Star

    Messages:
    2,557
    Location:
    on the right coast
    A very nice and detailed removal and installation. Great job. I will keep and save those pictures for future use.

    Thanks for your time detailing the process. :beer:
  5. firetruck41

    firetruck41

    Messages:
    5,736
    Location:
    Camas, WA USA
    Great write up and pics!
    If I was doing this job, I might consider replacing the phillips head with some allen head bolts, seems it would make it easier if there is a next time.
  6. Zane

    Zane

    Messages:
    969
    Location:
    Kansas City, Missouri
    Yes you could and a good idea. I didnt want to monkey around trying to find the right size so I just ordered new OEM bolts prior to starting the job.
  7. MikeB

    MikeB SILVER Star

    Messages:
    122
    Location:
    Tempe, AZ
    Great job Zane.

    Could you measure the thread size and length of the "bolts", and post a pic of one, so that we can look for alternatives? I assume that they are standard flat head machine screws.

    Mike
  8. Elijah

    Elijah

    Messages:
    1,071
    Location:
    slc area
    Nice post Zane!! Sounds like this could possibly go in the FAQ. Thanks for the detailed write up!!
  9. LX_TREME

    LX_TREME

    Messages:
    2,663
    Location:
    Pasadena, CA
    What a coincidence, I'm about to do samething after new year except i'm going to replace with new radiator, also got all the parts here just waiting for moment and the right time.By any chance do you remember the Idler pulley part #?

    Thank you
  10. IdahoDoug

    IdahoDoug

    Messages:
    8,782
    Very nice. This should go in the FAQ and looks to be an excellent time saver.

    DougM
  11. RavenTai

    RavenTai

    Messages:
    6,085
    Location:
    Dixie co. Florida
    This seal is seeping on my 80, no where near a stream yet just a grimy stain, thanks for the write up,

    Another tip on Philips screws is to use valve lapping compound on the tip, gives more grip.

    If you run into trouble can the rad be removed and get a manual impact in there? Need about 8" plus room to swing a hammer

  12. scottm

    scottm

    Messages:
    2,550
    Location:
    Third Coast, USA
    Hmm, maybe that's what's leaking on mine. I thought it was the front crank seal, but I don't see any slinging like my other 80 did. Nice writeup, thanks!
  13. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Moderator Supporting Vendor

    Messages:
    17,807
    Location:
    Sniffin' diesel
    Be sure to get the crank pulley bolt nice and tight when you go back togther...;)

    Good job!.


    D-
  14. cruiserman

    cruiserman

    Messages:
    1,859
    He is holding the hammer sideways so to speak, so that the side of the hammer is striking the bolts. I'll probably be doing this repair to mine, but I think it was a poor RTV job by the user.
  15. Zane

    Zane

    Messages:
    969
    Location:
    Kansas City, Missouri
    OK, I completed steps 15 thru 17 with no needed updates to the step by step comments provided. I used a 600 ft/lb torque wrinch to tighten the crank bolt to 305 ft/lbs. I made it 310 for good messure just in case the calibration was off on it due to it being a rental tool.
  16. Zane

    Zane

    Messages:
    969
    Location:
    Kansas City, Missouri
    If you guys think this should be in the FAQ section that would be great. How can we git this done? My only concern is that even though I have compressed my pictures as much as possible I'm running out of space for future posts. When put in the FAQ section will this free up my allowed picture space? I sure would hate to pull some of these pictures out of my uploads to post something new and loose the value of them in the original post.
  17. Dusty

    Dusty SILVER Star

    Messages:
    2,569
    nice write up-way usefull
  18. Zane

    Zane

    Messages:
    969
    Location:
    Kansas City, Missouri
    Attached you will find all the Toyota part numbers needed for this job.

    Idler Pulley Part # 16603-66010
    Oil Pump Seal Part # 15188-66020
    Philip head bolts part # 15183-66020 quantity #7

    Front Crank Shaft Seal part #90311-52022
  19. Zane

    Zane

    Messages:
    969
    Location:
    Kansas City, Missouri
    You could remove the radiator and gain some room, but I only needed to Tap (as hard as I could while still in control of the hammer) the philips driver with the side of the hammer (as Cruiserman stated) to do the job.
  20. LX_TREME

    LX_TREME

    Messages:
    2,663
    Location:
    Pasadena, CA
    I bought all the parts already except the Idler Pulley Part# also have question here, do i really need to replace all the 7pcs of philip head bolts?

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