How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics (4 Viewers)

[Zane]

I bought all the parts already except the Idler Pulley Part# also have question here, do i really need to replace all the 7pcs of philip head bolts?

I would, they are CHEAP and good insurance just in case you mess up the heads when pulling them out.

 

[cruiserdan]

If you guys think this should be in the FAQ section that would be great. How can we git this done? My only concern is that even though I have compressed my pictures as much as possible I'm running out of space for future posts. When put in the FAQ section will this free up my allowed picture space? I sure would hate to pull some of these pictures out of my uploads to post something new and loose the value of them in the original post.

Buy a star and you can post pics to your heart's delight.....

 

[spartan]

An add to this - lap ( sand your cover before reinstalling ) with wet /dry sandpaper on flat surface as robbie mentions in his replacement procedure post.

I replaced my seal to repair a pretty substantial leak, did NOT sand it flat and still have a slight weep of oil.

 

[spartan]

Update - seems the o ring does swell. My leak is gone!!!!!!! Yippeee....

 

[LX_TREME]

Update - seems the o ring does swell. My leak is gone!!!!!!! Yippeee....

Spartan, When you mentioned the O ring you mean 2 of them behind the Oil Pump Cover? Same as the one on the pic with the red arrows? or something different? Part # maybe?

 

[powderpig]

No LX I beleive he is talking about the o-pump cover's 0-ring style seal. It is more the shape of the cover but round in nature. see step ten and the picture. You will see a thin black o-ring in the timing cover behind the plate. later robbie

 

[Rookie2]

An add to this - lap ( sand your cover before reinstalling ) with wet /dry sandpaper on flat surface as robbie mentions in his replacement procedure post.

Just the cover surface or both the cover and oil pump surface? Is there a particular grit of sand paper to use, or does wet/dry just come in one grit?

I noticed last night I've got a small leak in this area too. Haven't pulled the engine guard yet to see if I can tell exactly where it's coming from. I suspect for a leak in this arear, it would come down to crank seal, oil pump seal, or front oil pan arch?

Spartan: Thanks for the write-up..., couple of questions:

Does the crank shaft pulley nut go on righty tighty, lefty loosie? How did you keep the breaker bar and socket in place while bumping the engine? And when you say to disconnect the distributor lead to bump the motor, is that the high-tension cord in the middle of the distributor cap?

Thanks in advance.

Rookie2

 

[Zane]

Does the crank shaft pulley nut go on righty tighty, lefty loosie? How did you keep the breaker bar and socket in place while bumping the engine? And when you say to disconnect the distributor lead to bump the motor, is that the high-tension cord in the middle of the distributor cap?

Thanks in advance.

Rookie2

Step Four: Remove crank shaft pulley. Use ¾ inch 30mm socket w/ breaker bar placed under passenger side of frame. I used rock climbing webbing to hold the breaker bar under the passenger side of frame. You could use just about anything. Duck Tape, Rope, bungy, etc... Disconnect distributor lead. Then bump the starter and the bolt will break loose.

 

[Rookie2]

Disconnect distributor lead.

Sorry... still trying to get some of the lingo down and I want to make sure I understand correctly... "distributor lead" is the ignition cable connecting into the center of the distributor cap, right?

 

[Zane]

Sorry... still trying to get some of the lingo down and I want to make sure I understand correctly... "distributor lead" is the ignition cable connecting into the center of the distributor cap, right?

That is correct!

 

[Rookie2]

I've confirmed I've got seepage coming from the oil pump cover.

Another clarification please..., how did you go about seating the crank shaft oil seal while working in this configuration?

Thanks again,
Rookie2

 

[MikeB]

A fitting for 2" PVC pipe is the right size to seat the seal.

 

[powderpig]

after cleaning the old seal you could use it as a aid to seat the new one fully. robbie

 

[Webster]

Thanks for the write up Zane!

I was just told today by my dealer that this seal and the front crank seal needed to be replaced and he would only charge me $1100 to do it.

Any guess at the time spent on this fix? Did you do the crank seal at the same time?

Chris

 

[spartan]

I use sockets to seat seals with. Axle shaft oil, crank etc. Just pick the right size diameter socket to match the seal and tap into place until seated. Don't get carried away. Use an extension if needed - like for the fornt axle rebuild. These are generally large 3/4 drive sockets.

Took me 2 1/2 hours.

Sand ( lap ) the cover plate as robbie instructs. After initially thinking that my o ring had swelled and sealed completely I have noticed that there is still a slight weep. Very tiny, but very dissapointing after doing the job.

 

[Beowulf]

Does it make sense to buy a new oil pump cover when doing this job?

Would RTV help? ( ... in addition to the new O-ring.)

-B-

 

[cruiserdan]

Beo,

If you recall, my pump cover went back on, un-lapped, with sylglide on the o ring, and over 2 years later it is still bone dry.

 

[spartan]

sylglide - is that some king of sex lube or something????

I used vasoline to get the o-ring to seat for lack of having anything better on hand at the time.

Would use a small bead on FIPG on Top of the o-ring if I do over it again. Which I may.

 

[spartan]

Interesting - just poking around and Toyota recomends " seal packing black ( FIPG ) for the oil pump cover....guess I should ahve looked before....

 

[Rookie2]

Interesting - just poking around and Toyota recomends " seal packing black ( FIPG ) for the oil pump cover....guess I should ahve looked before....

Are we talking about running a bead on the pump side of the gasket, to hole the gasket in place?