How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics (1 Viewer)

[nukegoat]

Had JIS tool. Had two stripped screws. It's a suck project

 

[ElPolloBlanco]

But why? There is no benefit.

But is there a downside?

 

[george_tlc]

Even with a JIS bit, it WILL try to cam out unless you apply considerable pressure to push it into the screw head. With pressure applied the the bit (I used the bit in a 1/4 drive ratchet) you can then 'tap' the ratchet end to break the screw threads free from the housing. Then it's easy to remove after that. If the bit tries to cam out, then use a hammer to tap-tap-tap the bit again into the screw head to reform rather than stripping the head out.

Patience is key to removing all screws successfully. Replace with torx head screws - toyota should be kicked in the arse until they bleed for using the screw heads they do in many places on the vehicle. Easy for them to assemble, not so easy for maintenance/repairs later on. If the OEM screws were a good idea, then threads like this wouldn't exist...

cheers,
george.

 

[SupraTuRD]

I buttoned mine up with these stainless beauties.

 

[half k cruiser]

View attachment 1125112

I buttoned mine up with these stainless beauties.

Whats the thread pitch and length on those ?

 

[4G63 POWER]

But is there a downside?

Yes, several. The allen head type will strip easier then the jis type. Especially when they corrode. The key is mechanical experience and skill to properly use the jis bit. If you want to make it dummy proof I guess use the allen type. I've used the jis bits on way harder jobs like rusted on brake rotors that have 2 of these screws with no issues. If you can't apply the correct amount of pressure then I can't help you. The other downside is having to go out of the way to source the allen type when toyota has the jis in stock.

 

[george_tlc]

The replacement screws I've used and many others have used are Torx. I'd like to see a Torx strip out before a JIS which is just a glorified phillips head with a 'supposedly' more cam resistant flute design. As you yourself state, you need pressure on the JIS bit - no such issue with a Torx...

I'd also like to see how the stainless replacements corrode faster than the OEM JIS. Anyhow, you can use JIS and I'm super happy to have replaced those POS screws with stainless Torx.

cheers,
george.

 

[ElPolloBlanco]

We used Torx on F-18's. They'll strip if the wrong electrician is sent out to remove the panels. Hate those guys. I replaced my screws with Torx when I did my seal. I already had a Torx tip set.

 

[4G63 POWER]

Oh I thought it was allen heads, not torx. Still with SS, it expands at a different rate when heated compared to the toyota screws. The cover i'm sure was designed to be used with the metal of the stock screws. This could cause them (ss) to loosen or get to tight and cause galling.

 

[george_tlc]

Ha ha - yeah, I'm sure that oil pump has super high temps that will cause SS to have issues. The OEM screws are steel, the metal is aluminium - there's already expansion differences if that makes any difference in this relatively low torque application. Not like toymotor went and sourced special screws especially for this low tech application.

Anyhow, you seem to love your OEM stuff, so feel free to use them for every application on the 80. Not like everything on this vehicle is anything but perfect

cheers,
george.

 

[cruiserdan]

The OEM screws work best when pre-coated with factory red coolant prior to installation.....

 

[george_tlc]

The OEM screws work best when pre-coated with factory red coolant prior to installation.....

Is that factory red 'coolant' or 'blood' I know there's some blood involved in removing it and it's not all due to having to sacrifice a goat

cheers,
george.

 

[AMX390]

Thanks to the #3 Phillips bit/hammer tip, success was very easy f

me.

 

[4G63 POWER]

I'm thinking you would have been fine just using a jis bit straightaway.

 

[AMX390]

Nope, a #3 Phillips, tapped in with a hammer is the ticket, just as the OP suggests. Very tight, snug fit.

 

[GW Nugget]

We used Torx on F-18's. They'll strip if the wrong electrician is sent out to remove the panels. Hate those guys. I replaced my screws with Torx when I did my seal. I already had a Torx tip set.

@ElPolloBlanco I also have some Torx & Torq screws & bits waiting to go to good use. What size did you use? I know that some American Fine threads do match some metric. Or a better question is what is the size & pitch of those oil pump screws?

 

[george_tlc]

@ElPolloBlanco I also have some Torx & Torq screws & bits waiting to go to good use. What size did you use? I know that some American Fine threads do match some metric. Or a better question is what is the size & pitch of those oil pump screws?

How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics

cheers,
george.

 

[4G63 POWER]

Nope, a #3 Phillips, tapped in with a hammer is the ticket, just as the OP suggests. Very tight, snug fit.

My point was that you could have skipped that step all together if you would have bought jis bits. Everyone has all these "solutions" buying different screws, using Phillips bits etc............when the real issue is that they are using the incorrect removal tool in the first place. All that's needed is a jis bit and new toyota screws.

 

[george_tlc]

My point was that you could have skipped that step all together if you would have bought jis bits.

No way, I used the correct JIS bit (from Vessel) and it still tried to cam out. Required tapping of the hammer to re-seat and re-form the 'plus'. Lots of pressure from the rear (as much as possible in the cramped working space). So, I totally refute any claim that a JIS bit magically makes removing those screws a quick and easy job. Some folk have had it easy, some have had the screws shear - no guarantee either way until you get in there and do it.

cheers,
george.

 

[AMX390]

Skipped what step??? The #3 Phillips is a perfect fit and tapping with a hammer helps seat it all of the way and vibrate the threads free.