Not sure - trying to orient myself to this picture. Are you looking from below and to the passenger side?
How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter Zane
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Not sure - trying to orient myself to this picture. Are you looking from below and to the passenger side?
From below. Main crank pulley.
The best I can determine from this pic, I'd say the main crank seal. But confirm that the right side of the picture is the passenger side, right?
Okay, that is the oil galley plug that some people twist out and replace the gasket behind the bolt. The oil you see is really probably coming from the oil pump cover which is right above that location. The fix of my oil pump cover o-ring stopped all oil from this area. See my video if you haven't watched, it will show you this fix. It's referenced right above in this thread. Most of the time that oil Galley plug is not leaking.
That's what I was thinking. Just wanted to confirm.
I would also add the PLUG STRAIGHT SCREW part number 90341-27006 and GASKET # 90430-27005 to be oil leak FREE, my had a small leak and I had to order these part numbers to colplete my JOB.
I would probably try this first!If I am looking at your picture from the bottom up plus is very inexpensive and it would be a 5 minute job!
I would probably try this first!If I am looking at your picture from the bottom up plus is very inexpensive and it would be a 5 minute job!
Great and extremely helpful description, video, hints and tips, discussion, ideas, etc etc etc. Hardest part so far is finding the darn big enough torque wrench for the bolt. My contribution: the old cover seal got too brittle and stuck in the groove so naturally and carefully removed it but it kept breaking off into small pieces flying in all kinds of direction. While cleaning the residue of old seals in both areas with 2000 grit i thought of cleaning pump gears to ensure no debris was left there to scratch or damage the pump (took pics along the way) and found one small piece of the old seal right in the pump (did this job over several days as I like to take my time between fam, holidays, and truck in fact still at it since before xmas -personal choice) After all was cleaned up i was worried about some of these pieces that I could not easily see left in the oil pump area and/or in the chain chamber area. So pics before did not do justice as I saw several pics with the seal piece in it but never noticed. I edited the pics to negative effect and am pretty please to see a way to find possible debris or abnormalities in certain areas. I hope it helps in the future. Simple housekeeping but critical to prevent significant damage for such a simple fix.
howdees all....
just got done with the fix - total time 6 hrs
2+ hours trying to get the damn fan clutch bolts off
3+ hours for the rest
all in all
job (if you thoroughly read this thread - page 6-7 have some great tips and watch the texasknowhow video)
1. those fan clutch bolts were basically "welded" on - my 12 pt. ratchet shredded them - vice grips - shredded them more -
in the end - found an old wood chisel (yes chisel) and tapped away - biting in to them - till finally they began to spin off -
utterly fricking brutal - save your self the 2+ hours - if the bolts on the fan clutch dont come off with ease - just chisel them off and replace...
2. bump start = piece-o-cake - used a 24" 3/4 Breaker bar - with a 36" cheater pipe - lashed with bungy cords and shop towles for cushion.
pulled the dist. harness plug - turned the key and "bump" the 30 mm crank nut was hand loose - no problemo
3. hand some trouble pulling out the pulley / balancer - A. it is heavy a fux. B. was worried about the key falling out. used a small pry bar to
gently wiggle it forward - once it moved ~ 1/4" inch - then muscle up and spin the pulley till you can feel the key / index pointing to
12'o oclock - then you can take it off complelely - again be aware it is heavy....
4. the 7 dreaded cover bolts....used the cleaning and #3 phillips - head tapping method ($.69 at Harbour Freight)
then used by 12v. bosch mini-impact socket - easy as pie - all 7 came out pristine and with no problem at all - each on the first try.
no heat needed - no cam out issues - i ended up replacing them with the phh torx kit - but the oem screws came out so clean and unmarred - i could have easily used them again.
5. crank shaft gasket- came out using a screwdrive / mini-pry bar - went back in new with the 2" pvc coupler - someone might want to try a PVC 2" cap unit wherein the back end is closed - was kind of tough evenly seating the gasket - as you are basically using a small hammer to tap a all over PVC pipe and trying to seat the gasket evenly .
6. the oil pump gasket - getting this bugger to stay in place was a bit tricky (but hey i didnt have any issues with the 7 screws)
in the end - using a little permatex ultra grey (did not use FIPG) - held it properly in place - and simply used some more permatex on the
oil pump cover itself (after a cleaning and 1500 grit sand down).
7. re-torque the crank bolt - i used the "14 mm impact socket on the torque converter" method - a second person would have been nice -
as you have to spin the crank - put the bolt on via the trans inspection window - then spin the crank till the socket is both firm on the bolt and against the bell housing wall (mine fell off - thus the need for a second person) - 300lbs is a lot of torque
i set my toque wrench to ~275 lb (the 3/4" from Harbor Freight) + my 36" cheater bar - i got a "click" - i then switched to my breaker+cheater
(to get some more length) and got the bolt to move 5 degrees more....not sure how important 300 lbs is - but am satisfied enough - as putting that much pressure on the torque converter bolts cant be a good thing either....will definitely double check the crank bolt to make sure it is not loose this week.
anyways - again for me things went very smoothly - with little hitch ups and LC is running great and as of now - no more slow leaks....
thanks all for the great tips and advice - and if you are in the SJ bay area and need some help tackling this - just drop me a line...
Bf
209k and rolling....
just got done with the fix - total time 6 hrs
2+ hours trying to get the damn fan clutch bolts off
3+ hours for the rest
all in all
job (if you thoroughly read this thread - page 6-7 have some great tips and watch the texasknowhow video)1. those fan clutch bolts were basically "welded" on - my 12 pt. ratchet shredded them - vice grips - shredded them more -
in the end - found an old wood chisel (yes chisel) and tapped away - biting in to them - till finally they began to spin off -
utterly fricking brutal - save your self the 2+ hours - if the bolts on the fan clutch dont come off with ease - just chisel them off and replace...
2. bump start = piece-o-cake - used a 24" 3/4 Breaker bar - with a 36" cheater pipe - lashed with bungy cords and shop towles for cushion.
pulled the dist. harness plug - turned the key and "bump" the 30 mm crank nut was hand loose - no problemo
3. hand some trouble pulling out the pulley / balancer - A. it is heavy a fux. B. was worried about the key falling out. used a small pry bar to
gently wiggle it forward - once it moved ~ 1/4" inch - then muscle up and spin the pulley till you can feel the key / index pointing to
12'o oclock - then you can take it off complelely - again be aware it is heavy....
4. the 7 dreaded cover bolts....used the cleaning and #3 phillips - head tapping method ($.69 at Harbour Freight)
then used by 12v. bosch mini-impact socket - easy as pie
- all 7 came out pristine and with no problem at all - each on the first try.no heat needed - no cam out issues - i ended up replacing them with the phh torx kit - but the oem screws came out so clean and unmarred - i could have easily used them again.
5. crank shaft gasket- came out using a screwdrive / mini-pry bar - went back in new with the 2" pvc coupler - someone might want to try a PVC 2" cap unit wherein the back end is closed - was kind of tough evenly seating the gasket - as you are basically using a small hammer to tap a all over PVC pipe and trying to seat the gasket evenly .
6. the oil pump gasket - getting this bugger to stay in place was a bit tricky (but hey i didnt have any issues with the 7 screws)
in the end - using a little permatex ultra grey (did not use FIPG) - held it properly in place - and simply used some more permatex on the
oil pump cover itself (after a cleaning and 1500 grit sand down).
7. re-torque the crank bolt - i used the "14 mm impact socket on the torque converter" method - a second person would have been nice -
as you have to spin the crank - put the bolt on via the trans inspection window - then spin the crank till the socket is both firm on the bolt and against the bell housing wall (mine fell off - thus the need for a second person) - 300lbs is a lot of torque
i set my toque wrench to ~275 lb (the 3/4" from Harbor Freight) + my 36" cheater bar - i got a "click" - i then switched to my breaker+cheater
(to get some more length) and got the bolt to move 5 degrees more....not sure how important 300 lbs is - but am satisfied enough - as putting that much pressure on the torque converter bolts cant be a good thing either....will definitely double check the crank bolt to make sure it is not loose this week.
anyways - again for me things went very smoothly - with little hitch ups and LC is running great and as of now - no more slow leaks....
thanks all for the great tips and advice - and if you are in the SJ bay area and need some help tackling this - just drop me a line...
Bf
209k and rolling....
For this oil leak fix, can someone confirm that I need these parts:
1. Idler Pulley Part # 16603-66010
2. Oil Pump Seal Part # 15188-66020
3. Philip head bolts part # 15183-66020 quantity #7
4. Front Crank Shaft Seal part #90311-52022
According to what I have been told, I need to change the distributor o-ring, crank shaft seal and the oil pump seal with screws. So, do I really need all that is listed above? I don't see the distributor o-ring part? Also, what do I need the idler pulley part for? I am trying to make sure I get all my parts from Toyota before trying to tackle this job. Also, should I change my belts why I am at it? I never done that before either (they have been changed but not by me), but I am sure I will be able to with the help of this board. Anyone have a tutorial on changing belts?
1. Idler Pulley Part # 16603-66010
2. Oil Pump Seal Part # 15188-66020
3. Philip head bolts part # 15183-66020 quantity #7
4. Front Crank Shaft Seal part #90311-52022
According to what I have been told, I need to change the distributor o-ring, crank shaft seal and the oil pump seal with screws. So, do I really need all that is listed above? I don't see the distributor o-ring part? Also, what do I need the idler pulley part for? I am trying to make sure I get all my parts from Toyota before trying to tackle this job. Also, should I change my belts why I am at it? I never done that before either (they have been changed but not by me), but I am sure I will be able to with the help of this board. Anyone have a tutorial on changing belts?
You dont NEED to replace the distributor o-ring. You dont have to remove the dizzy in order to swap out the oil pump gasket. You do have to pull the crank pulley, so you might as well swap out the crank shaft seal. My Toyota dealer wants $6 each for the screws. I'm not spending $42 for $0.99 worth of screws! I reused my old screws. They are perfectly fine to reuse as long as you dont strip them! MAKE SURE YOU USE A #3 SCREWDRIVER to pull the screws out.
You need a new dealer. The published list price on those screws is $2.01 a copy.
I'm creating puddles of oil when I stop now
Obvious thought was oil pump seal and crank seal. But could it be the oil galley plug? I'm losing a lot of oil. I can see how the oil pump leaking would cause ill to be everywhere but would it be leaking this much???
Freaking out a bit.
Obvious thought was oil pump seal and crank seal. But could it be the oil galley plug? I'm losing a lot of oil. I can see how the oil pump leaking would cause ill to be everywhere but would it be leaking this much???
Freaking out a bit.
You need at least the crank seal and oil pump cover gasket. The screws get chewed up easily, I wouldn't do the job without new ones. The idler is a judgement call.
Not part of the oil pump cover job, but it is a common oil leak.
kino.....you are correct - your part #s match my invoice - (except the bolts - i went with the PHH kit) - total for all above was $120.00 (damn pulley was $80.00) - mine was in ok condition but replaced it anyways....
V belts = 90916-02353-83 & 9932-10910-83 - these cost ~ $40.00
dizzy-o ring = 90099-14118 ~ $3.00
changing the belts is a
job - you dont even need to remove the bottom engine cover or the fan clutch....all you need is 12mm and 14 mm sockets - if you choose to do it whilst the engine is hot.the belts will need to be removed for the crank / oil pump job - but NOT necessarily replaced - if thier condition is good (solid, unfrayed, untorn, etc...) mine were only 20k old and in good nick so i did NOT replace them....
the ac belt pulley nuts (12 mm) are located on the bottom of the engine - near the bottom radiator hose. if you choose not to pull off the bottom cover - there is an access hole for the adjusting bolt.
the alternator locks the double belts - simply loosen the top 14mm pivot bolt....
then the lock nut - then then adjusting bolt (both 12 mm)
now if you arent confident you can do the belts - i would not recommend tackling the other jobs -indeed there are some great videos on the dizzy o ring and crank / oil pump job (see texasknowhow) - those are far more complex - and if you jack around with pulling out the dizzy from the block and dont properly re-insert the worm gear or properly reorient back your dizzy - you will jack up the engine timing...
Bf
