Followed Zane's step a few years ago. Zane, thanks for the very intuitive write-up. They work quite well, has not leaked since.
How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Zane
- Start date
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LFD2037
TEXAS LEXUS!
Woohoo!!!! I guess the gasket swelled because I'm leak free! Today I replaced the dizzy oring for the heck of it and I'm now 100% leak free. Wooohoooo!!!!
Just finished doing this, among several other things (new blue fan clutch, new radiator, hoses, belts, crank seal, distributor o-ring). Has not leaked since getting back from the short test drive. Thanks for the great write up!
Just did this a couple days ago. The screws were incredibly simple without even a hint of stripping out, without even cleaning out the face of them first.
This bit made all the difference. http://www.menards.com/main/tools-h.../1-3-pozidriv-drive-bit/p-1487534-c-10156.htm The fit was so tight I had to tap it in using the side of a hammer and after each screw was out use channel locks to separate them, even with them all gunked up with oil and grime.
The trick was simple. Just used a breaker bar and gently TIGHTENED each one until a tiny "pop" was felt from the factory loctite or whatever breaking free. Then each and every one easily backed out.
Though I'd put that out there for another option.
This bit made all the difference. http://www.menards.com/main/tools-h.../1-3-pozidriv-drive-bit/p-1487534-c-10156.htm The fit was so tight I had to tap it in using the side of a hammer and after each screw was out use channel locks to separate them, even with them all gunked up with oil and grime.
The trick was simple. Just used a breaker bar and gently TIGHTENED each one until a tiny "pop" was felt from the factory loctite or whatever breaking free. Then each and every one easily backed out.
Though I'd put that out there for another option.
Video of the bump start breaker bar removal of the crank bolt. Wish it was this easy putting on!
Would it be possible for someone to post a picture of the set-up for using a 12mm/14mm deep socket on the torque converter bolt to hold your crank in place while tightening the crank pulley bolt?
I have read multiple descriptions of how it is to be done in this thread, but a picture would be worth a thousand words to me.
Thanks.
I have read multiple descriptions of how it is to be done in this thread, but a picture would be worth a thousand words to me.
Thanks.
084runnerltd
SILVER Star
I can do a "word picture"....
There is seriously nothing to it.
Remove the rubber cover and place socket in hole.
You may have to have someone slowly turn the the flywheel an inch or so to get pressure on the socket to hold it in place initially.
What are you having problems with....locating it? Getting the socket in? Or keeping the socket held in place?
...via IH8MUD app
I did all the tapping and heating for the screws and got them out without issue.
I suspect that the real issue with the screws is that they are JIS screws and we are all trying to use Philips bits to remove them, leading to cam out and stripping of the heads.
Vessel sells JIS crosshead bits and I bet that would solve most if not all of the issues with the screws stripping. I switched mine out with the torx set so I don't' expect any future problems.
I suspect that the real issue with the screws is that they are JIS screws and we are all trying to use Philips bits to remove them, leading to cam out and stripping of the heads.
Vessel sells JIS crosshead bits and I bet that would solve most if not all of the issues with the screws stripping. I switched mine out with the torx set so I don't' expect any future problems.
@LXCSRS, This is a video I made to do this fix. Might help you out, I cover this part in the video.
Also, back a few pages in this thread another mud poster had pics of his socket with a "backer" block to hold it in place.
Good luck! Clay
...via IH8MUD app
Also, back a few pages in this thread another mud poster had pics of his socket with a "backer" block to hold it in place.
Good luck! Clay
...via IH8MUD app
Woohoo! Got my crank bolt off using the torque converter trick! Be sure to use an impact socket. This is what happens if you use a regular one:
Also, here's the setup at the torque converter:
I used a quick clamp to hold the socket in place, though once I changed to the impact socket it wasn't necessary.
I had to use a 3/4" breaker bar and a cheater on top of that and it was still about all I could do to break it loose. Torquing the crank bolt back to 304 ft lb was actually pretty easy. I got a 3/4" torque wrench from Harbor freight and it wasn't nearly as hard as breaking it loose.
Also, here's the setup at the torque converter:
I used a quick clamp to hold the socket in place, though once I changed to the impact socket it wasn't necessary.
I had to use a 3/4" breaker bar and a cheater on top of that and it was still about all I could do to break it loose. Torquing the crank bolt back to 304 ft lb was actually pretty easy. I got a 3/4" torque wrench from Harbor freight and it wasn't nearly as hard as breaking it loose.
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Woohoo! Got all the pump screws out with no stripping!
I completed this yesterday on my '97. The tips here were invaluable, making this an uneventful procedure. Thanks to all the members who have contributed to this very useful thread.
So, I got everything put back together. The oil pump seal seems to be leak free, but the main crank seal has a small amount of oil around it. Did I not seat it deep enough? I swear it wouldn't go in any farther, but looking from under the truck it seems to be sticking out alot. The new seal did seem to be a bit different than the old one so maybe that's normal. Does it just take a little while before it seals all the way?
By the way, I replaced the ribbed belts with OEM belts. Everything sounds much smoother!
By the way, I replaced the ribbed belts with OEM belts. Everything sounds much smoother!
Could you have put it in backwards? Don't remember mine sticking out at all. The lip side goes in towards the engine.
Its possible but I seem to remember it could only go in one way because only one side had a surface to hammer on. Looking back at some of the original pics in this thread it appears that The new seal does have an extra lip that the old one doesn't have.
Here's a comparison of the old and new crank seals from Zane's original posts. Looks like the newer one does have a larger lip which protrudes more.
Yep, I bet it is fine if it looks seated like this one above. Should be good to go. Clay
Sweet, thanks. I've been monitoring and it seems fine. Oil pressure is good, no puddles.
This leak from the oil pump cover?
