How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics (2 Viewers)

[084runnerltd]

This are the part numbers you will need to get it done!A VERY EASY FIX! PLUG STRAIGHT SCREW part number 90341-27006 and GASKET # 90430-27005 to be oil leak FREE, mine had a small leak and I had to order these part numbers to complete my JOB.

Ok so I got the new hex plug and gasket, thanks CDan.

But was wondering how on earth you got the old one unscrewed, and new one tightened?? I can't find anything that will fit that hex....

I ended up buying a bolt and put nuts on it. Placed the bolt head in the hex and turned the nuts...didn't work to well (and don't wanna strip it)

Any help would be great! Thanks!

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[mleichty]

Thanks to all who contributed to this thread. It was a very handy reference. The video was great for seeing it all step by step. Did this today using the starter bump along with tapping on the Phillips bit and then using a small impact to loosen. I wasn't excited about the thought of drilling out screws, but fortunately every one came out easily. I used an 18v Ridgid impact driver and Dewalt impact #3 Phillips bit. Fit was really good on the Phillips and even a slightly larger impact like I had fit in the space with no problem. The hardest part of the job for me was getting out that front crank seal. It was really stuck and it was hard to get a good angle with a screwdriver to pry it out. Ended up using a seal puller in a weird angle to finally get it moving. Good luck to all who take this on. If you don't run into problems problems with the pump cover screws, it really isn't a bad job at all.

 

[Tredwards]

Anyone ever find the torque setting on the hex nut below the oil pump. Have searched the fsm but can't find it?

 

[084runnerltd]

Anyone ever find the torque setting on the hex nut below the oil pump. Have searched the fsm but can't find it?

I have yet to install mine for two reasons.....

Can't find a hex tip that fits it and want to know the torque setting.....

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[Tredwards]

Hex tip is 14 mm iirc. I got a gear wrench set from amazon for it but was on tight. Had to use a long breaker bar to get off. I just tightened up pretty good by feel for now.

 

[084runnerltd]

Hex tip is 14 mm iirc. I got a gear wrench set from amazon for it but was on tight. Had to use a long breaker bar to get off. I just tightened up pretty good by feel for now.

Thanks!

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[084runnerltd]

Hex tip is 14 mm iirc. I got a gear wrench set from amazon for it but was on tight. Had to use a long breaker bar to get off. I just tightened up pretty good by feel for now.

You are correct, I stopped at the hardware store (2 others had nothing even close to 14mm hex) and found a 14mm....fits perfectly! Thanks.

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[LFD2037]

Just got finished doing my oil pump gasket & crank seal.Starter trick worked great for breaking crank bolt loose. All 7 phillips came out easily & could've been re-used. 2" PVC coupling worked perfect for putting crank seal in. Used 14mm deep socket to hold flywheel while I tightened the crank bolt. All I had was a tq. wrench that went to 150lb. I'd read tq. it to 150lb. then do a 1/4 turn more. Right as I got to that point the Crapsman 14mm socket busted! Luckily I was right about where I was wanting to get anyways. Hardest part was keeping the pump gasket to stay in place. That part alone took me 30min.!!! Ended up using bearing grease to hold it in place. Took me 3.5 hours & that included changing my oil. If I wouldn't have been so intimidated by the crank bolt I'd of done this long ago!

1 question:
Did I screw up by using the wheel bearing grease to hold gasket in place?

I'm hoping it will still be able to 'swell' even though it has a layer of grease on it. I used a thin amount on the entire gasket to hold it in place.

 

[Twinair]

Just got finished doing my oil pump gasket & crank seal.Starter trick worked great for breaking crank bolt loose. All 7 phillips came out easily & could've been re-used. 2" PVC coupling worked perfect for putting crank seal in. Used 14mm deep socket to hold flywheel while I tightened the crank bolt. All I had was a tq. wrench that went to 150lb. I'd read tq. it to 150lb. then do a 1/4 turn more. Right as I got to that point the Crapsman 14mm socket busted! Luckily I was right about where I was wanting to get anyways. Hardest part was keeping the pump gasket to stay in place. That part alone took me 30min.!!! Ended up using bearing grease to hold it in place. Took me 3.5 hours & that included changing my oil. If I wouldn't have been so intimidated by the crank bolt I'd of done this long ago! 1 question: Did I screw up by using the wheel bearing grease to hold gasket in place? I'm hoping it will still be able to 'swell' even though it has a layer of grease on it. I used a thin amount on the entire gasket to hold it in place.

i greased mine to hold it in place. It's common practice. I've found that most jobs on this cruiser that I've read to be dreaded and feared aren't really that bad, enjoyable even.

 

[LFD2037]

Well the damn thing is still leaking!!! Sure hope that gasket swells and it seals it up.

 

[Rookie2]

Give it a good week before you start to panic. I think part of it is the oil you put on the seal gets pressed and pushed outside the seal and takes some time to seep down to the bottom of the cover.

 

[LFD2037]

I used grease and not oil. Also, there's about 7 or 8 drops on the ground after a 15 minute drive. I'm hoping I'm just being paranoid!

 

[084runnerltd]

I used grease and not oil. Also, there's about 7 or 8 drops on the ground after a 15 minute drive. I'm hoping I'm just being paranoid!

Are you sure that the entire leak prior to the repair was all from main seal and oil pump cover??

Many cruisers also leak from the Hex plug near the pump cover.

Then it gets even harder to detect ..."once the oil hits the fan (belt)!"

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[Rookie2]

I used grease and not oil. Also, there's about 7 or 8 drops on the ground after a 15 minute drive. I'm hoping I'm just being paranoid!

Yeh, that's way too much to be what I'm talking about. I'm talking about maybe a few drops total collecting at the bottom of he cover over the period of the first 3 or 4 days.

 

[tpizza01]

Great thread, thanks! Will be working on this one very soon and this will come in handy

 

[LFD2037]

It is coming from the dizzy and oil pump. The dizzy doesn't appear to be the source for this fresh oil leak. I'm ordering the dizzy o-ring and hex head straight plug gasket tonight along with a new AC belt. I'm hoping the 'swelling' will cure most the problem.

 

[Slabsides45]

To those contemplating this fix, I would strongly encourage you to get a double layer of cardboard and cover the radiator surface when doing the bump starter method of removing the crankshaft bolt.

I did this method for the 2nd time (different truck) a few days back, and found out that if you have to bump it multiple times, you need to get back out and recheck each time before bumping it again. Make sure it's all snugged up. In a perfect storm, when everything goes exactly wrong, your breaker bar can be thrown into the radiator. This will ruin the radiator and make for a much less happy day than you were anticipating....

BTW, the little impact gun they sell at Harbor Freight worked GREAT to get those 7 screws out. Excellent tip.

 

[hootie]

To those contemplating this fix, I would strongly encourage you to get a double layer of cardboard and cover the radiator surface when doing the bump starter method of removing the crankshaft bolt.

I did this method for the 2nd time (different truck) a few days back, and found out that if you have to bump it multiple times, you need to get back out and recheck each time before bumping it again. Make sure it's all snugged up. In a perfect storm, when everything goes exactly wrong, your breaker bar can be thrown into the radiator. This will ruin the radiator and make for a much less happy day than you were anticipating....

BTW, the little impact gun they sell at Harbor Freight worked GREAT to get those 7 screws out. Excellent tip.

Just started mine today and wanted to say thanks for the video and the suggestion to use the little impact driver. That thing worked awesome. And farther back in this thread(I think, I've looked at so many for a while before starting this) someone suggested using the Deckmate bit that is supplied with your deck screws. It did fit well but I highly recommend NOT using it. I tried it and it worked well until the third screw. Those bits must be very brittle because it broke easily. The tip was still stuck in the head of the screw so I had to get a small screwdriver and chisel it out. Otherwise, my screws came out and could probably be used again but I already have the new Torx screws to go back in. As far as the crank bolt, I'm surprised it came loose so easily using the starter bump. I barely hit and it was loose. I'm sure some are more problematic than others.

 

[CRUISER MONKEY]

Step Eleven: Replace seal with new one. Place new rubber seal in grove using some engine oil to hold the seal in place.
Step Twelve: Place oil pump cover back in place without moving seal out of its grove. Use new Philips bolts from Toyota to replace the old ones.
Step Thirteen: Tighten philips bolts in chris cross pattern using short philips bit and ratchet. There is no ft/lbs spec in the FSM for these Philips bolts so I made them fairly tight making sure not to strip out the heads.
Step Fourteen: Replace front crank shaft seal (just because you are in there). Pull old seal out with seal puller or screwdriver. Put new seal in, by placing some motor oil around seal for easy placement. Make sure it is seated well.
View attachment 49308

Step Fifteen through Seventeen I will be doing tomorow
Step Fifteen: Put Crank shaft pulley back in place. Thread nut back in place by hand. Use good chain pliers to wrap around the pulley to keep motor from turning when lighting bolt. Place a rubber hose around chain to keep from damaging pulley. Use Torque wrench that will go up to 310 ft/lbs. Place bar in place to keep chain pliers from spinning and tighten using torque wrench. Or have some one attempt to hold it??? I am able to rent this torque wrench from a local rental store in town for a small fee.
Step Sixteen: Replace Idler pulley (new from Toyota), put fan and clutch back in place, replace two bolts holding top of shroud, Put belts back in (replace with OEM if yours are old), fill engine back up with oil.
Step Seventeen: Have a cold beer and smile at all the money and time you just saved yourself!

Thank you for the info ,,,,,nicely done,,,, much appreciated

 

[Slabsides45]

I know it's been stated before, but a 2" coupling for PVC pipe is the perfect fit for seating the crankshaft seal.