yes please dont change that stance/tire/wheel combo......looks great......i loved that stage of the game, you are def over the hump !! now get back in the shop and keep working..
Another 77 FJ40 resto (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter SSCR
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #42
Will do, thanks! Burnttoast wish I had your welding skills, what welder (mig/tig/model) would you recommend for a guy to learn on do some small basic stuff? I plan to hang 33 rolls of insulation in my garage today so I can keep the heat in and finish painting my fram and other stuff this weekend. Now to work.....
The little Miller 140 or Lincoln both work fine , just make sure to get one that is at least gas kit friendly , flux core for body work is a pain .
I'm not all that far from you if you need something special welded , have a Dynasty Tig here....
Sarge
I'm not all that far from you if you need something special welded , have a Dynasty Tig here....
Sarge
Millermatic 211...this is the best of the smaller wallet friendly mig welders as it will serve you with a 110 and 220 plug, which are interchangeable. Definitely run with a 90/10 argon/co2 mix. Super clean weld, high penetration from 22 gauge to 3/8" no problem.......keep checking Ebay, for a clean used unit. I just sold mine for the newer model to a local for 700 and it was excellent.......I wouldnt suggest tig unless you have a background of welding experience. Not to shy you away from it but it takes a little bit of finesse/experience to properly take advantage of this process. Hope this helped.
- Thread starter
- #45
Well after a couple month hiatus, (holidays, birthdays, plumbing issue, and insulating the garage) I finally started on the FJ40 again.
I blocked the entire chassis again and using a "kuz" ball on a rod I was able to coat the inside of my frame with a rust converter/protector. Once that was done I sprayed 2 coats of a perfect sheen semi gloss over the three coats of Chassis Saver.
I was off today so I had the tabs welded on the lower engine shroud at a local shop and I ground them down. I now need to take over a trunk load of parts to be sandblasted so I can paint them and start reassembling the rest of the motor components (i.e. radiator, air pump, air cleaner, alternator ect...).
Now for a couple of photos, first the chassis blocked down and last the semi gloss finish and the welded tabs on the lower engine shroud.
I blocked the entire chassis again and using a "kuz" ball on a rod I was able to coat the inside of my frame with a rust converter/protector. Once that was done I sprayed 2 coats of a perfect sheen semi gloss over the three coats of Chassis Saver.
I was off today so I had the tabs welded on the lower engine shroud at a local shop and I ground them down. I now need to take over a trunk load of parts to be sandblasted so I can paint them and start reassembling the rest of the motor components (i.e. radiator, air pump, air cleaner, alternator ect...).
Now for a couple of photos, first the chassis blocked down and last the semi gloss finish and the welded tabs on the lower engine shroud.
Wow! It looks really good so far. Keep up the good work. All that work on the frame has really paid off. I wish I had done more about the pitting on mine.
Nice job!!
- Thread starter
- #48
Couple more, I thought I posted these already....
did you ever wind up buying a welder?
SSCR, I just noticed in your last picture of the frame in post #45 that you have the anti inversion plate on this inside. This is supposed to be on the outside of the chassis.
Your tires need some Armor-All on 'em. They're not as shiny as the rest of frame and driveline...and that's a disgrace to your build 
Also, don't forget to paint the u-joint!
Just bustin' your chops....Damn good lookin' dude, keep it up!
Also, don't forget to paint the u-joint!
Just bustin' your chops....Damn good lookin' dude, keep it up!
- Thread starter
- #52
Not yet, but plan to this summer if I can find a deal on the one you recommended to me on craigslist/ebay.
- Thread starter
- #53
The anti-inversion plate will bottom out on the frame on either side in the front. Orange45 from the site did the install so I'm sure it is okay. Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #54
Tire shine on a FJ40?! BLASPHEMY!!!
Your tires need some Armor-All on 'em. They're not as shiny as the rest of frame and driveline...and that's a disgrace to your build
Also, don't forget to paint the u-joint!
Just bustin' your chops....**** good lookin' dude, keep it up!
Ok, I just finished putting the springs in and the instructions from ARB said to "ensure the anti-inversion side plate is on the outside of the chassis and faces towards the spring assembly". Just going by their instructions so I figured I call it out.
- Thread starter
- #57
Maybe I should switch them out than too, thanks.
I have to call them on something else anyway...I might just ask them what would happen if they were installed the other way. Will let you know
- Thread starter
- #59
Thanks Major, let me konow, shouldn't be a big deal to switch them out.
Ran over to see the progress on the body, photo shows the new rockers and rear quarters welded in. My old rockers and quarters were solid but I could see some rust brewing under the orginal paint. I was especially worried about the seams and just wanted to gut it all out to have a totally solid tub with zero rust issues now or in the future. Body guy is doing fantastic work but a little slower than I want, but I would rather have it done right.
Still need to settle on a color, I know that the general consensus is to go with factory Mustard, but I love Dune Beige 416....
Here is a couple more pics of the body work and the other panels/doors that were chemically stripped (very supprised how solid these were). You can also see the OEM fenders I was lucky to score....
Ran over to see the progress on the body, photo shows the new rockers and rear quarters welded in. My old rockers and quarters were solid but I could see some rust brewing under the orginal paint. I was especially worried about the seams and just wanted to gut it all out to have a totally solid tub with zero rust issues now or in the future. Body guy is doing fantastic work but a little slower than I want, but I would rather have it done right.
Still need to settle on a color, I know that the general consensus is to go with factory Mustard, but I love Dune Beige 416....
Here is a couple more pics of the body work and the other panels/doors that were chemically stripped (very supprised how solid these were). You can also see the OEM fenders I was lucky to score....
Looks great!!
Kep me posted on your rear sill. I'm assuming it will be getting the chop soon.
Kep me posted on your rear sill. I'm assuming it will be getting the chop soon.
