4BD1T into FJ60 Fit Issues (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter Dazed
- Start date
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Mitch,
The fan shroud contains and directs the air from the fan through the radiator and is important to keep the engine cool when traveling slowly. I modified the stock shroud and it worked well.
My condenser is in the stock location and the intercooler is behind it, between the condenser and radiator.
Take a look at my swap for pictures of both these areas.
How's it going?
Doug
The fan shroud contains and directs the air from the fan through the radiator and is important to keep the engine cool when traveling slowly. I modified the stock shroud and it worked well.
My condenser is in the stock location and the intercooler is behind it, between the condenser and radiator.
Take a look at my swap for pictures of both these areas.
How's it going?
Doug
Dazed
Blue's Driver
- Thread starter
- #44
Doug, thanks for the reply. Those are the two answers I was expecting and hoping for, but wanted to check. I will need to add material to the fan shroud and redirect the air since my engine is slightly to the passenger side now and definitely pushed back.
It's going slowly. I measured up the material I need to relocate the radiator. I will order it today, along with the fan shroud metal and box tube for the turbo mount.
Later this week, I want to get the power steering put together, along with reinstalling the drive shafts. I am waiting on the redone filter relocation bracket from 69rambler/allmaras machine but I haven't heard from him in a couple weeks....he comes and goes. Once I have that, I can make up the hoses and get the connections for the remote filter. I am planning on doing the same thing longbow did and route the heater input and output to itself to start. I also need to figure out how to mount up the air filter. I need to get intake hose to the turbo....need to find a source for the metal pipe, the silicon pipe and the couplings, same for the intercooler piping. I need to make an exhaust downpipe and coupling to the turbo. Hmm...redo my front axle hard brake line. Reinstal the brake booster. Install the clutch push rod. Make the fuel filter setup, but I think I have most of the parts...get it attached somewhere. Oh yeah, one big step I forgot, just turn it on!
I am sure I am missing some more stuff, but that is plenty to do! Still hoping to have it ready for Cruise Moab but that is looking less likely sadly. I would like to have driven it for a bit before going on such a long trip.
If anyone is in or going to be in Santa Barbara this weekend and wants to help out, hit me up.
Mitch/Dazed
It's going slowly. I measured up the material I need to relocate the radiator. I will order it today, along with the fan shroud metal and box tube for the turbo mount.
Later this week, I want to get the power steering put together, along with reinstalling the drive shafts. I am waiting on the redone filter relocation bracket from 69rambler/allmaras machine but I haven't heard from him in a couple weeks....he comes and goes. Once I have that, I can make up the hoses and get the connections for the remote filter. I am planning on doing the same thing longbow did and route the heater input and output to itself to start. I also need to figure out how to mount up the air filter. I need to get intake hose to the turbo....need to find a source for the metal pipe, the silicon pipe and the couplings, same for the intercooler piping. I need to make an exhaust downpipe and coupling to the turbo. Hmm...redo my front axle hard brake line. Reinstal the brake booster. Install the clutch push rod. Make the fuel filter setup, but I think I have most of the parts...get it attached somewhere. Oh yeah, one big step I forgot, just turn it on!
I am sure I am missing some more stuff, but that is plenty to do! Still hoping to have it ready for Cruise Moab but that is looking less likely sadly. I would like to have driven it for a bit before going on such a long trip.
If anyone is in or going to be in Santa Barbara this weekend and wants to help out, hit me up.
Mitch/Dazed
Here us where I purchased the turbo pipe, hoses and clamps -
www.cxracing.com
A few others have bought their materials from them also.
For Moab, who knows...I finished mine up and drove her a few hundred miles and took it on a 3 week vacation to the Sierra's! I took it easy, carried extra tools and spares, and I towed it behind our motor home there and back. But still put over a 1300 miles on her in the Sierra's.
I had 2 issues, the glow plug relay went bad, easy fix, and the front drive shaft dented the oil filter one time, but did not hurt it. I was concerned about that, so I had a spare filter and plenty of oil. You already will have moved your filter, so no issue.
I think it depends on how things shape up as you finish, how the test drives go and your comfort level. Is it the best idea, no, but see how everything goes.
Doug
www.cxracing.com
A few others have bought their materials from them also.
For Moab, who knows...I finished mine up and drove her a few hundred miles and took it on a 3 week vacation to the Sierra's! I took it easy, carried extra tools and spares, and I towed it behind our motor home there and back. But still put over a 1300 miles on her in the Sierra's.
I had 2 issues, the glow plug relay went bad, easy fix, and the front drive shaft dented the oil filter one time, but did not hurt it. I was concerned about that, so I had a spare filter and plenty of oil. You already will have moved your filter, so no issue.
I think it depends on how things shape up as you finish, how the test drives go and your comfort level. Is it the best idea, no, but see how everything goes.
Doug
I used the alum tube for my inter cooler runs and had an exhaust shop make my exhaust.
On my new turbo, I'm going to weld an extension onto my turbo to inter cooler outlet. This will make a smaller OD, help clear a few things and make the tube line up better. It will also make the clamp in a more accessible location too.
Something to note: When CXRacing sent my order, it required a signature. I called them after I found a UPS note on my door and they told me that is how they ship all their orders - Signature required!
Doug
On my new turbo, I'm going to weld an extension onto my turbo to inter cooler outlet. This will make a smaller OD, help clear a few things and make the tube line up better. It will also make the clamp in a more accessible location too.
Something to note: When CXRacing sent my order, it required a signature. I called them after I found a UPS note on my door and they told me that is how they ship all their orders - Signature required!
Doug
Dazed
Blue's Driver
- Thread starter
- #48
Thanks for letting me know about the signature.
My turbo to inter roller out is already pretty small on the HE221W, but I will check that.....I think the intercooler is 2.5" OD.
I plan on taking it to an exhaust shop for them to do it. But there is no downpipe, just an exit hole. In my design thoughts, that will be facing straight into the firewall, which is ok....before it was basically onto the AC compressor.
My turbo to inter roller out is already pretty small on the HE221W, but I will check that.....I think the intercooler is 2.5" OD.
I plan on taking it to an exhaust shop for them to do it. But there is no downpipe, just an exit hole. In my design thoughts, that will be facing straight into the firewall, which is ok....before it was basically onto the AC compressor.
On the turbo to IC, the reason I want to weld an extension is the added OD that the silicone hose and clamp add. On mine, the turbo to IC is in the rear next to brake booster, so the externsion will be much easier and line up better too.
Doug
Doug
I only had to elongate the shrouds stock mount holes a little, as I made the radiators new mounts so it centered the fan like stock.
I also had to make a new notch in the bottom where the lower radiator spigot was relocated towards center to clear the frame and make the hose line up better.
I saw you are waiting on Dustin for oil block off plate. This is a fairly easy part to make if you have to. Just an idea.
Doug
I also had to make a new notch in the bottom where the lower radiator spigot was relocated towards center to clear the frame and make the hose line up better.
I saw you are waiting on Dustin for oil block off plate. This is a fairly easy part to make if you have to. Just an idea.
Doug
Dazed
Blue's Driver
- Thread starter
- #52
Ok cool. I think mine will take a bit more fab and work. I need to look into the radiator drain plug and the coolant outlet...forgot about those.
I know I can make it but it's more a point that I already paid for it and the part he supplied didn't work....principle of the matter.
I know I can make it but it's more a point that I already paid for it and the part he supplied didn't work....principle of the matter.
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
Like you, I know that I can make it pretty simple but I to have paid for it already. I sent him a PM and he did reply back. He stated that he was working on the new ones and would get back soon as they were done. Thats been at least 3 weeks ago.
If I was in the area I would be there in a heart beat. Lending a hand to a fellow cruiserhead and diesel enthusiast is good stuff. Don't get too discouraged. I found that during my conversion if I took my list and stayed on task I found that I could get more accomplished. Find one item get it done and then move forward. I finished my conversion a day and 90 miles before and 800 mile backcountry trip.
Clint
Dazed
Blue's Driver
- Thread starter
- #57
Thanks. I finally have an extensive list...it's long.
One thing I'm struggling with is the electrical (I don't remember where it is in your threads). How did you guys modify your wiring harnesses? I didn't label all (any) of the connectors...oops. I know where the alternator connector is. I am not sure where the temp sensor connector is, the oil pressure sensor connector, nor the Air conditioning compressor connector. All the others are obsolete now.
I also need to figure out where I can get 12v only when the ignition is on...where is that wire?
Where on the harness did you modify your harnesses? Did you leave them in the vehicle to modify them?
Luckily I don't need glow plugs to work for the engine to run.
Another question. Could I remove the fan shroud all together and mount some fans on the radiator instead? Might be much easier if I can get the cooling I need.
One thing I'm struggling with is the electrical (I don't remember where it is in your threads). How did you guys modify your wiring harnesses? I didn't label all (any) of the connectors...oops. I know where the alternator connector is. I am not sure where the temp sensor connector is, the oil pressure sensor connector, nor the Air conditioning compressor connector. All the others are obsolete now.
I also need to figure out where I can get 12v only when the ignition is on...where is that wire?
Where on the harness did you modify your harnesses? Did you leave them in the vehicle to modify them?
Luckily I don't need glow plugs to work for the engine to run.
Another question. Could I remove the fan shroud all together and mount some fans on the radiator instead? Might be much easier if I can get the cooling I need.
A/C wire is green single and its on the passenger side
Alt wire is a 3 wire jobby with a round receptacle
Temp sender is single wire with spade terminal centrally located. Sorry don't remember color
12V ignition on is your hot wire to the distributor
Oil pressure is also single wire, don't remember color, has spade end on passenger side as well. Get an oil pressure unit from mid 90s V6 Toyota truck. It fits in one of the oil ports without issue on the drivers side of block by oil pump housing. Also has correct ohm rating for proper gauge read.
Wire harness can be modded in the vehicle. If you can even call it that. I built my fuel cut system outside the vehicle then ran it from a separate fuse block.
Everything else I pulled, re-routed through the fenders, and just spliced as needed. Everything got tested multiple times before the solder and heat shrink came out.
Dual elec fans are your friend. You need the Ford Contour set up for V6 model. Any decent auto supply will have it for around $120. I ponied up and bought the painless fan controller.
That's all I can remember for now. Look through my thread for any specifics. PM me and I will give you my number. Feel free to call and pick my brain on anything you need. I can hang out with my hood open and walk you through some of the wiring, plumbing, etc.
I will be at Cruise Moab barring traveling issues. Hope to see you there.
Clint
Dazed
Blue's Driver
- Thread starter
- #59
I am using an FJ60 oil pressure unit, screws right in...Doug used it.
Thanks for the info on the wires and locations. I am colorblind, so it makes it...challenging.
Can I use the electric fans instead of the fan shroud? Also the Painless Fan Controller may be painless to install, but it would not be painless on my wallet!
PM sent.
Yes you can use fans in place of shroud. Use the search engine. It's your friend. Search multiple ways, spelling, etc.
There are cheaper alternatives out there for fan controls. Yes the painless is one of the more expensive routes but I literally wired it in, adjusted it once and haven't touched it since the install. It took more time for me to read the directions than it did to install it and have it operational. To me well worth it as my time is valuable and it was one less stress I had to deal with.
Clint
There are cheaper alternatives out there for fan controls. Yes the painless is one of the more expensive routes but I literally wired it in, adjusted it once and haven't touched it since the install. It took more time for me to read the directions than it did to install it and have it operational. To me well worth it as my time is valuable and it was one less stress I had to deal with.
Clint
