What bell housing are you using?
4BD1T into FJ60 Fit Issues (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Dazed
- Start date
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Thank you and all others for the bulid ups it is all helping me plan my angle of approach. As for 69ramblers communication it is dually noted. However I am sure he is as busy as the next.
it is also my understanding that Late 85-87 fj60s bellhousing were stamped with "3f" in anticipation of the engine, but who knows.
it is also my understanding that Late 85-87 fj60s bellhousing were stamped with "3f" in anticipation of the engine, but who knows.
Dazed
Blue's Driver
- Thread starter
- #84
new clutch mount
hey guys. I have been trying to work on a new clutch slave cylinder and its mount. I have a 2003 Toyota Camry slave. Attached is a picture of it mounted...if it works, I will post a picture of the bracket and mount. It isnt perfectly inline, but its close. I had grind down the head of one of the bolts to make it fit. Also, one of the bolts is a bit long, but that is easy to fix.
What do you guys think? I haven't checked to see if it engages the clutch or not yet. I also dont know how well the connection to the hydraulic line will work just yet, but it looks like it will work.
hey guys. I have been trying to work on a new clutch slave cylinder and its mount. I have a 2003 Toyota Camry slave. Attached is a picture of it mounted...if it works, I will post a picture of the bracket and mount. It isnt perfectly inline, but its close. I had grind down the head of one of the bolts to make it fit. Also, one of the bolts is a bit long, but that is easy to fix.
What do you guys think? I haven't checked to see if it engages the clutch or not yet. I also dont know how well the connection to the hydraulic line will work just yet, but it looks like it will work.
The slave looks pretty short, does it have enough travel to operate the clutch?
For a shot off cable, I used a PTO cable I found on line for around $20.00 shipped. It's overkill strength wise, but is solid, easy to cut to the correct length and has a nice big knob. I mounted it in the stock 60 choke cable hole in the dash and ran it in front of the radiator in the intercooler space.
You are making progress and before you know it will be finished.
Doug
For a shot off cable, I used a PTO cable I found on line for around $20.00 shipped. It's overkill strength wise, but is solid, easy to cut to the correct length and has a nice big knob. I mounted it in the stock 60 choke cable hole in the dash and ran it in front of the radiator in the intercooler space.
You are making progress and before you know it will be finished.
Doug
Dazed
Blue's Driver
- Thread starter
- #88
It should be the same bore size of 13/16 as the LC one. Dustin did a ton of research and pointed me in this direction. The plunger on it is entirely compressed at the moment. I am most concerned with it being slightly out of line.
Things are coming together, I think I have the turbo relocation bracket sorted out. I need to order intercooler piping and get the intake piping all worked out too. It's coming together, hopefully fast enough!
Things are coming together, I think I have the turbo relocation bracket sorted out. I need to order intercooler piping and get the intake piping all worked out too. It's coming together, hopefully fast enough!
I used the old factory choke handle assembly. I pulled apart the unit behind it and inserted a longer cable purchased at a bicycle shop. The inner cable was from the bicycle shop too. I ground down the lead ball on the end of the cable that would normally fit in a hand brake or shifter so it would fit in the slide of the Toyota choke cable unit.
Dazed
Blue's Driver
- Thread starter
- #92
Its coming along slowly. With the help from a friend, I got the alternator and temp sensor wiring completed, mounted the inline electric fuel pump, finished fabricating the bracket for the intercooler, and painted all of the remaining brackets (unless I need to make more for some reason). I also found out that my turbo relocation bracket had some small air leaks in it, so I took that over to a welder today to sort out (I dont have the time or patience for that thing any longer, but it puts the turbo in a good place...or so I think). The oil hoses and fittings are in house, along with a few other things. I will hopefully be able to work on it all tomorrow afternoon.
So question: I did not remove the timing pin in the bellhousing before I mounted the whole thing up. Dustin's design uses that space to put in a sensor for doing the tach (I didnt know that until after I mounted it). Does anyone have any ideas on how to remove that pin through a small (~1in diameter) hole? If there are no ideas, I am going to take the easy road out here and order a Dakota digital tach, use the built in Isuzu sensor, and be done with it.
So question: I did not remove the timing pin in the bellhousing before I mounted the whole thing up. Dustin's design uses that space to put in a sensor for doing the tach (I didnt know that until after I mounted it). Does anyone have any ideas on how to remove that pin through a small (~1in diameter) hole? If there are no ideas, I am going to take the easy road out here and order a Dakota digital tach, use the built in Isuzu sensor, and be done with it.
My first thought was a small amount of Detcord wrapped around it.
The only real thought I had was to drill a small hole behind it and punch it out if you can get the right angle to drill it.
I would probably go with the dakota too.
Don
The only real thought I had was to drill a small hole behind it and punch it out if you can get the right angle to drill it.
I would probably go with the dakota too.
Don
Dazed
Blue's Driver
- Thread starter
- #94
Detcord sounds like a fun idea.
Another question I just remembered, should I connect the sense line for the alternator at the battery or can I connect it at the 12v output on the alternator? ASTR's swap had this discussion but it didn't seem to come to a clear conclusion. I think the FJ60 alternator did it at the alternator and the sense line is not on the connector. I would think voltage drop across an approximatly 6ft 10gauge wire won't be very high.
Another question I just remembered, should I connect the sense line for the alternator at the battery or can I connect it at the 12v output on the alternator? ASTR's swap had this discussion but it didn't seem to come to a clear conclusion. I think the FJ60 alternator did it at the alternator and the sense line is not on the connector. I would think voltage drop across an approximatly 6ft 10gauge wire won't be very high.
Good to see that you are making some progress and feeling better about the swap.
I think the slave will be fine.
I ran my sense wire at the alt. seems to work just fine.
Any reason you didn't do an electronic shut off?
Clint
I think the slave will be fine.
I ran my sense wire at the alt. seems to work just fine.
Any reason you didn't do an electronic shut off?
Clint
It probably won't make a whole lot of difference but I would connect it at the battery. After all, you want to regulate the voltage as it appears at the battery. The whole point of having a separate sense line is to allow sampling the voltage at the critical point (battery) and adjusting the alternator output accordingly. With the sense line tied to the alternator output, you could be limiting your maximum alternator output because, the higher the output current, the higher will be the voltage drop. At 65 amps (the rating of your alternator) you will experience 0.4 volt drop over 6 ft. using #10 wire. And that is assuming perfect connection (0 resistance).
Secondly, I would suggest using #4 or #6 minimum wire between your alternator output and the battery.
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I agree and that is exactly how mine is set up. Been working great with zero issues.
I would do the Dakota for the tach also. Mine has worked well and was easy to do.
Doug
Dazed
Blue's Driver
- Thread starter
- #98
Thanks.
I didnt want to fool with electrical stuff and I didnt pull that mechanism off of the truck.
OK cool. I could use the 10gauge line that is currently there for the sense but that is a large amount of impedance for the sense line. But the stock FJ60 alternator to battery line is a 10gauge...additional thoughts?
You really wouldn't need it. The injection pump has a lift pump built in.
