Builds 1988 BJ73 slow build... (4 Viewers)

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Yes ...... I'm a trusting guy.
Yes, but based upon other posts I have seen, I suspect that you're pretty handy with a firearm - a good deterrent ;)
 
Does anyone by chance have a trusted site they buy spare bulbs for taillights and so forth? I was just going to use amazon, but thought I'd ask on here first. I have a break light out and started looking at all the bulbs and noticed some higher watt bulbs were plugged in and I would like to change some out the the factory wattage.

edit. I also noticed my front assembly is saying 24v 21w (usa) while toyodiy says 24v 25w. Any thoughts on which to use? I know the other two are 24v 5w and 24v 21/5w.

cheers.
 
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I did a cheap fix from napa a ways back since I needed it fast and did not want to pay a lot. Napa carries a bulb which is 24v for the old 5 ton military trucks that has the filaments reversed for us but a quick grind on one of the locating pins and reversing the install has worked for me. Been in there for 5 months with no issues and is just about right on light output. BTW it only cost around $3 per bulb. When I get home from work I can tell you the number on the bulb. Now if I can only fix that headlight bulb.

One of these days we need to meet up for a pint since we are only a short distance from each other.
 
I may try those. My lights were always dim, come to find out I had 55/50 bulbs in there so that would definitely be an improvement. That PN for the combination bulb is the same I used I believe.
 
So I ordered a 24v p21/25w bulb off amazon since I have amazon prime and wanted a quick replacement...apparently the $7 that I spent was for a set of 10 and not 1. Wayne also informed me that 1662 bulb is an active number/replacement that can be found at Napa or other autopart stores. Cruiserdan was a huge help as well, thanks to both of you.

If anyone needs an extra bulb let me know. I'll be keeping most of them but can part with a few.

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Does anyone know the proper gasket/part number when doing an oil change? I ordered a couple toyota oil filters and the gaskets I got for the drain plug wouldn't work.

I've also been using Toyota part number 90915-YZZD3 for an oil filter, which is quite a bit smaller than the one that was on the truck when I bought it. Not sure if that will have adverse effects later.
 
The drain plug gasket I use on my 3B is 90430-18023. HTH
 
Oil change, well a failed oil change and pto un-seizing. 7pm to 2am. Last oil change they must have cranked on the oil filter bc no one could get it off. So had to fill it back up with fresh oil. Oil wrench we had was too big and hands, leather belts, webbing, taped hands for extra grip, etc couldn't get it.

Pto was pulled out and couldn't open the area to look at the drive so we first check to see if any fluid was in there. There was, but looked like automatic transmission fluid. We filled it up with anti lock spray (or whatever it is called) and some kind of other oil (turbine oil?). Let it sit for 30min or so then took a pipe wrench to the connection thing and took a while but finally broke it free. Let it sit longer. Turned it a bit. Drained it and a lot of rust came out, then added gear oil. Put pto back in. Found a nail. Worked like a champ until tried a faster gear. Snapped the nail under pulling its own weight. Couldn't knock the nail out so had to pull it out again. Finally got it drilled and pounded out. Put a hardened steel Allen wrench. Put it back together spooled it out and repeated, but kept it slow. Put it under a bit of a load by holding the breaks a bit and you could hear the rust still in there and the racket coming from inside the winch.

Going to run it for a week or so under a light load then drain and refill. Try and start clearing out the rust.

Still need to get oil filter off though. Doh!
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Oil change, well a failed oil change and pto un-seizing. 7pm to 2am. Last oil change they must have cranked on the oil filter bc no one could get it off. So had to fill it back up with fresh oil. Oil wrench we had was too big and hands, leather belts, webbing, taped hands for extra grip, etc couldn't get it.

Pto was pulled out and couldn't open the area to look at the drive so we first check to see if any fluid was in there. There was, but looked like automatic transmission fluid. We filled it up with anti lock spray (or whatever it is called) and some kind of other oil (turbine oil?). Let it sit for 30min or so then took a pipe wrench to the connection thing and took a while but finally broke it free. Let it sit longer. Turned it a bit. Drained it and a lot of rust came out, then added gear oil. Put pto back in. Found a nail. Worked like a champ until tried a faster gear. Snapped the nail under pulling its own weight. Couldn't knock the nail out so had to pull it out again. Finally got it drilled and pounded out. Put a hardened steel Allen wrench. Put it back together spooled it out and repeated, but kept it slow. Put it under a bit of a load by holding the breaks a bit and you could hear the rust still in there and the racket coming from inside the winch.

Going to run it for a week or so under a light load then drain and refill. Try and start clearing out the rust.

Still need to get oil filter off though. Doh!
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It's a pain in the arse, but with a wire brush, a strong solvent and a lot of patience, your old cable (which looked just like mine) can look like this.
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