Yup. Fat Amy gets a body lift. (2 Viewers)

[NoClue]

Aesthetically, it can kinda mess some things up, like bumper gaps, slider gaps and showing more frame below the body or a gap between the body and frame behind the rear tires. It does create that taller fender gap, if that’s all you care about.

IMO, it should only be done for function. It allows a taller tire (although the body mount still has to be addressed). It allows custom bumpers to be tucked up for better approach and departure angle. It could possibly allow you to tuck some of the drivetrain up for a smoother belly (not certain about that on the 200, haven’t gotten that far).

It would be quite a bit of work for merely aesthetics, but it makes sense to me if you’re considering 36-37” tires (especially the new Nitto Recon in 37x11.5r17!)

those recons look amazing. Saw a few teams running them at baja this year.

 

[TeCKis300]

Okay, I might dive into this tomorrow. With the info here, .75" pucks in hand (thank you @MTKID !), a couple days time, I'm going to try to make this happen. Somewhat working against the clock as humpty dumpty has to come back together again for an offroad trip the following weekend.

Anyone want to give me a guess as to how much time this might take so I can pace the work? I'm sure there will be non-functional aesthetic details that I can take care of later.

 

[nwfl4runner]

Do you have sliders? That adds significant time since you need the pinch weld to jack from. Overall it’s an easy 2 hour job. Hardest part is removing the interior carpet to reach the center bolt mounting the body to the frame. You don’t have to loosen the steering or brake lines. Radiator/fan, however will need to be addressed even at .75”, and that takes significantly more time.

 

[TeCKis300]

Do you have sliders? That adds significant time since you need the pinch weld to jack from. Overall it’s an easy 2 hour job. Hardest part is removing the interior carpet to reach the center bolt mounting the body to the frame. You don’t have to loosen the steering or brake lines. Radiator/fan, however will need to be addressed even at .75”, and that takes significantly more time.

Thanks for the hints. Yes, I have Slee step sliders. Hoping I can work around them.

The stock tupperwear is coming off front and back ATM. I forget how many clips and fasteners are on that thing.

 

[MTKID]

Do you have sliders? That adds significant time since you need the pinch weld to jack from. Overall it’s an easy 2 hour job. Hardest part is removing the interior carpet to reach the center bolt mounting the body to the frame. You don’t have to loosen the steering or brake lines. Radiator/fan, however will need to be addressed even at .75”, and that takes significantly more time.

I also lifted with a bottle Jack and some wood in the fender wells like I think some of the images show in the beginning of this thread. Bottle Jack on tire, wood at the top of the bottle Jack and careful lifting. Actually let me push some of the minor portions of the inner fender up flat.

 

[nwfl4runner]

As I was fiddling around after replacing alternator/valley-plate, I did notice there's some decent tension on the power steering lines to the reservoir. No problems yet, but it's on my list of things to attempt to address. Might be as simple as shifting the mount inwards (my air pumps are removed so I don't have those lines), or some longer custom hoses. But food for thought...

 

[AnyMal]

As I was fiddling around after replacing alternator/valley-plate, I did notice there's some decent tension on the power steering lines to the reservoir. No problems yet, but it's on my list of things to attempt to address. Might be as simple as shifting the mount inwards (my air pumps are removed so I don't have those lines), or some longer custom hoses. But food for thought...

Yall need to ramp these things and flex them out. Im nervous!

 

[nwfl4runner]

Yall need to ramp these things and flex them out. Im nervous!

No issues with a 1" body lift.

 

[TeCKis300]

As I was fiddling around after replacing alternator/valley-plate, I did notice there's some decent tension on the power steering lines to the reservoir. No problems yet, but it's on my list of things to attempt to address. Might be as simple as shifting the mount inwards (my air pumps are removed so I don't have those lines), or some longer custom hoses. But food for thought...

Somewhat related, but I had relocated my PS reservoir to the radiator for another mod, but this seems to provide enough slack in the lines.

Power Steering Relocation Bracket and Dual OBA

Having done a power steering relocation mod recently for a yet to be completed twinz project, thought this would be useful for others on how to create a simple and effective relocation bracket. I know others have needed to relocate the PS for other reasons, including fitting dual batts. Here's...

forum.ih8mud.com

BTW, thanks for all the tips and hints on the BL! Helped a bunch.