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Thanks, I appreciate that! Would be fun to see your truck. Not sure what my plans will be yet but I'll keep that in mind
I don't think you did!Do you go to the monthly Seattle Cruiserhead meetups?
Not usually. They're at 6. And usually an hour or two from my house. I work nights and am not up early enough to make it. Plus the thought of fighting Seattle traffic is unappealing.
I attend most of the north sound cruiser meets
kenavt
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- Thread starter
- #43
So I got four of the six items done on my list before I leave tomorrow morning! Enough to do the trip, then I'll have more to do when I get back.
I "jailbroke" my JDM cruise control ECU (lifting the 112 km/h limiter) by soldering in a resistor into the right place. More details: HDJ81 Cruise control top speed - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/hdj81-cruise-control-top-speed.104835/page-2#post-14549063
I fixed the AC by replacing the compressor, dryer, and expansion valve. Expansion valve - just ordered Denso 4752005 from Rockauto. Dryer I ordered from Toyota, PN 88471-50020. The compressor was trickier, I talked about it in this post, had to order some things and it wasn't cheap 1HD-FT A/C Compressor needed - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1hd-ft-a-c-compressor-needed.733952/#post-14552313. I also replaced all of the O-rings that I had touched with a USDM kit from O'Reilly's, and sealed with Nylog Blue. Just had it recharged yesterday and I now have cold AC.
I bolted in the USDM trans cooler and ran new trans fluid lines from the hardlines that exit below the crankshaft. Got most of the old fluid out. Seems to be working great, without gauges it's impossible to do a before/after though.
Coolant hoses deserve another post. I'm pretty skeptical of those Chinese silicone hose kits, at least on 1HD-FTs, but I'm going to try them for this roadtrip if only because I'm out of time. I'm most worried about these in my roadtrip - that a clamp gets loose or that a hose gets cut somehow. Might try replacing some of them after the first half of my roadtrip is done.
I ran out of time to install the Auber gauges or build the sleeping platform. I might build the sleeping platform in time for my trip back. Hopefully I won't need the Auber gauges - I'm completely stock turbo/intercooler/airbox wise, and now I have the USDM trans cooler, and I have no plans to challenge the truck on this trip.
I also replaced my main drive belts and AC belt. Following up on the below from the last thread...
Conti 17395 didn't work, it was too wide of a belt. I suspect Gates 7395 may work in a pinch since it has roughly the right length and width, and I laid eyes on one, but haven't tried it.
I canceled my order for 99332-11260 and didn't even try it; ended up ordering 99332-61275 as @OGBeno said, as well as 90916-02452. The latter comes as a kit of 2 belts, you don't need to order quantity 2. They went on great.
I "jailbroke" my JDM cruise control ECU (lifting the 112 km/h limiter) by soldering in a resistor into the right place. More details: HDJ81 Cruise control top speed - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/hdj81-cruise-control-top-speed.104835/page-2#post-14549063
I fixed the AC by replacing the compressor, dryer, and expansion valve. Expansion valve - just ordered Denso 4752005 from Rockauto. Dryer I ordered from Toyota, PN 88471-50020. The compressor was trickier, I talked about it in this post, had to order some things and it wasn't cheap 1HD-FT A/C Compressor needed - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1hd-ft-a-c-compressor-needed.733952/#post-14552313. I also replaced all of the O-rings that I had touched with a USDM kit from O'Reilly's, and sealed with Nylog Blue. Just had it recharged yesterday and I now have cold AC.
I bolted in the USDM trans cooler and ran new trans fluid lines from the hardlines that exit below the crankshaft. Got most of the old fluid out. Seems to be working great, without gauges it's impossible to do a before/after though.
Coolant hoses deserve another post. I'm pretty skeptical of those Chinese silicone hose kits, at least on 1HD-FTs, but I'm going to try them for this roadtrip if only because I'm out of time. I'm most worried about these in my roadtrip - that a clamp gets loose or that a hose gets cut somehow. Might try replacing some of them after the first half of my roadtrip is done.
I ran out of time to install the Auber gauges or build the sleeping platform. I might build the sleeping platform in time for my trip back. Hopefully I won't need the Auber gauges - I'm completely stock turbo/intercooler/airbox wise, and now I have the USDM trans cooler, and I have no plans to challenge the truck on this trip.
I also replaced my main drive belts and AC belt. Following up on the below from the last thread...
Conti 17395 didn't work, it was too wide of a belt. I suspect Gates 7395 may work in a pinch since it has roughly the right length and width, and I laid eyes on one, but haven't tried it.
I canceled my order for 99332-11260 and didn't even try it; ended up ordering 99332-61275 as @OGBeno said, as well as 90916-02452. The latter comes as a kit of 2 belts, you don't need to order quantity 2. They went on great.
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kenavt
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- Thread starter
- #44
Road trip update... trip is going well. I've clocked 4000 miles since I left between the main drive to Ontario, detours along the way, and then lots of errands and small trips throughout the last month. Yoshi hasn't missed a beat.
I'm falling in love with this truck - how comfortable it is, the character of the diesel, the fuel efficiency. The differences between the 80 series and 60 series platforms for long term comfort are night and day... I now find it hard to believe I was going to do this trip in my FJ60
Did a Costco 15W-40 oil and OEM oil filter change in my parents' driveway this afternoon, and tomorrow morning I'm back on my way to Seattle! Goal is to high-tail it and get there in five days, with stops by Lake Superior in the Upper Peninsula, Minnesota, and North Dakota.
Some phone pictures from the last month in South Dakota:
Into the Chicago Loop:
And backwoods Ontario with the most rustic fuel pump I've ever used:
I'm falling in love with this truck - how comfortable it is, the character of the diesel, the fuel efficiency. The differences between the 80 series and 60 series platforms for long term comfort are night and day... I now find it hard to believe I was going to do this trip in my FJ60
Did a Costco 15W-40 oil and OEM oil filter change in my parents' driveway this afternoon, and tomorrow morning I'm back on my way to Seattle! Goal is to high-tail it and get there in five days, with stops by Lake Superior in the Upper Peninsula, Minnesota, and North Dakota.
Some phone pictures from the last month in South Dakota:
Into the Chicago Loop:
And backwoods Ontario with the most rustic fuel pump I've ever used:
kenavt
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- Thread starter
- #45
And now I'm back in Seattle! Ended up doing the drive as a sprint back from Michigan in four days, passing through the Upper Peninsula and camping in Copper Harbor along the way. The truck had no drama and no fuss*. In total I racked up over 6500 miles and averaged 21 mpg, stock on my 33s. Eat your heart out, gassers
* with one small exception... on I-90 going through either Homestake Pass at 6000ft or Bozeman Pass at 5000 ft and 90+ F outside... the truck felt like it was a bit down on power. Instead of holding 75mph up the grade, it was more like 65mph. I would think with turbo engines that's not that surprising; the high altitude and temp means feeding air into the engine is more difficult. Something I'm sure an intercooler would sort out nicely.
Enjoy some more photos from the return trip! Next up is some routine maintenance... then on to more local PNW adventures and potentially some upgrades
* with one small exception... on I-90 going through either Homestake Pass at 6000ft or Bozeman Pass at 5000 ft and 90+ F outside... the truck felt like it was a bit down on power. Instead of holding 75mph up the grade, it was more like 65mph. I would think with turbo engines that's not that surprising; the high altitude and temp means feeding air into the engine is more difficult. Something I'm sure an intercooler would sort out nicely.
Enjoy some more photos from the return trip! Next up is some routine maintenance... then on to more local PNW adventures and potentially some upgrades
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And now I'm back in Seattle! Ended up doing the drive as a sprint back from Michigan in four days, passing through the Upper Peninsula and camping in Copper Harbor along the way. The truck had no drama and no fuss*. In total I racked up over 6500 miles and averaged 21 mpg, stock on my 33s. Eat your heart out, gassers
* with one small exception... on I-90 going through either Homestake Pass at 6000ft or Bozeman Pass at 5000 ft and 90+ F outside... the truck felt like it was a bit down on power. Instead of holding 75mph up the grade, it was more like 65mph. I would think with turbo engines that's not that surprising; the high altitude and temp means feeding air into the engine is more difficult. Something I'm sure an intercooler would sort out nicely.
Enjoy some more photos from the return trip! Next up is some routine maintenance... then on to more local PNW adventures and potentially some upgrades
View attachment 3106863 View attachment 3106866 View attachment 3106864 View attachment 3106862
The air density was the cause more than the heat. There's really nothing you can do about it.
That, and making sure it's clean! Take advantage of the OEM washable filter and shake it out in some river water!
kenavt
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- Thread starter
- #48
So then an intercooler would not help that much, would it? Since it’s more for heat exchanging then for condensing air? (although I’m sure taking some heat out helps a bit).
Ooh yes I will do this! I’m curious to see how dirty it is after racking up 7k miles on it.
An intercooler on a diesel really keeps egt's down and allows you to push harder. There's a benefit. But at elevation the only thing you can do is make more power.
kenavt
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- #50
Wow, it has literally been a year (minus a day) since I last posted in here. Time flies! Been very busy with personal life items going on (career/professional, family, relationships, house move among others).
On the Yoshi front - no big things have happened with Yoshi other then that they've settled into being my daily! In the last year have put on 8k miles/13k km while keeping up with maintenance (oil changes) but not doing any more work then that. I don't think I've left Washington with Yoshi in the past year, but have done multiple trips to local national parks (all three of Olympics, North Cascades, Mt Rainier) and a lot of the work commute which sometimes had some dirt.
As things have been calming down lately, hoping to get back into it. I still have a ton of parts sitting around from last summer just collecting dust.
Yoshi did tick over 250k km yesterday near Forks! To celebrate, hauled a bunch of buddies from out-of-town all over the Olympic Peninsula. Second picture is of the Hurricane Ridge wildfire... nasty stuff.
On the Yoshi front - no big things have happened with Yoshi other then that they've settled into being my daily! In the last year have put on 8k miles/13k km while keeping up with maintenance (oil changes) but not doing any more work then that. I don't think I've left Washington with Yoshi in the past year, but have done multiple trips to local national parks (all three of Olympics, North Cascades, Mt Rainier) and a lot of the work commute which sometimes had some dirt.
As things have been calming down lately, hoping to get back into it. I still have a ton of parts sitting around from last summer just collecting dust.
Yoshi did tick over 250k km yesterday near Forks! To celebrate, hauled a bunch of buddies from out-of-town all over the Olympic Peninsula. Second picture is of the Hurricane Ridge wildfire... nasty stuff.
I wonder why yours says cruise and mine says a/d
That's not near Atikokan is it? It looks like a gas stop I attempted with only fumes in my tank and they hadn't received there summer delivery of fuel....Road trip update... trip is going well. I've clocked 4000 miles since I left between the main drive to Ontario, detours along the way, and then lots of errands and small trips throughout the last month. Yoshi hasn't missed a beat.
I'm falling in love with this truck - how comfortable it is, the character of the diesel, the fuel efficiency. The differences between the 80 series and 60 series platforms for long term comfort are night and day... I now find it hard to believe I was going to do this trip in my FJ60
Did a Costco 15W-40 oil and OEM oil filter change in my parents' driveway this afternoon, and tomorrow morning I'm back on my way to Seattle! Goal is to high-tail it and get there in five days, with stops by Lake Superior in the Upper Peninsula, Minnesota, and North Dakota.
Some phone pictures from the last month in South Dakota:
View attachment 3100636
View attachment 3100635
View attachment 3100631
Into the Chicago Loop:
View attachment 3100634
And backwoods Ontario with the most rustic fuel pump I've ever used:
View attachment 3100632
View attachment 3100633
kenavt
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- Thread starter
- #53
No idea, but i like the idea of "Auto Drive" from What does "A/D" mean? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/what-does-a-d-mean.402948/
No, just near Algonquin. I've never been that far north or west in Ontario. Wouldn't be surprised if that's what lots of pumps look like though outside of southeastern Ontario.
shermantank55
SILVER Star
Glad I saw this thread even though I missed it a year back. I've got a sibling HDJ81 "Xena" that is also running great. Great to hear of another out and about.
Greg
Greg
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kenavt
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- #56
So Yoshi has had brakes that are a bit soft ever since I got it off the boat last June. They are stiff when the engine's off, but when the engine's on, they're soft, and will slowly slip down near the floor with enough pressure. Rather annoying, but have just been driving carefully and told myself I'd sort it out once I had time.
I finally got around to tackling them, but still haven't solved it yet. Started by bleeding the brakes at all sides (no idea how old the brake fluid was anyway)... which led to me mostly rounding the head off one of the front brake bleeder screws. Managed to get it off, looked up the part number (47547-20030), saw it was shared with lots of USDM Toyotas, went to NAPA to pick up a part from them, and.... ended up getting the rear bleeder part, which I didn't realize until after I installed it in the caliper and it was too short to easily access, almost rounded it again.
The blake bleeder screw is really close to the two nearest bolts on the front - if you have a shorter screw (like the one for the rear) you can't access it! Beware! See below with the NAPA 22070 rear brake bleeder screw installed.
Showing the length difference below - on the left is NAPA 22069, in the middle and right were the front brake bleeder screws off Yoshi. NAPA 23927 is the right length, but isn't fully threaded the way the Toyota ones are - it has some unthreaded shaft which is fine.
Bleeding the brakes didn't change anything, and based on the symptoms I originally suspected the brake booster, but it's not hard to push the pedal... so then I suspected the master cylinder. So I blocked off the master cylinder with some Dorman M1-1.00m plugs off Amazon to isolate the pedal to actuating the master cylinder to try and replicate the behavior and... the brake pedal was nice and stiff, even with the engine running!
Next up I think is to do more reading, look at the ABS and LPSV, then try blocking off parts of the system and isolate what's wrong with this hydraulic system under the higher pressure of the engine running + brake booster.
I finally got around to tackling them, but still haven't solved it yet. Started by bleeding the brakes at all sides (no idea how old the brake fluid was anyway)... which led to me mostly rounding the head off one of the front brake bleeder screws. Managed to get it off, looked up the part number (47547-20030), saw it was shared with lots of USDM Toyotas, went to NAPA to pick up a part from them, and.... ended up getting the rear bleeder part, which I didn't realize until after I installed it in the caliper and it was too short to easily access, almost rounded it again.
The blake bleeder screw is really close to the two nearest bolts on the front - if you have a shorter screw (like the one for the rear) you can't access it! Beware! See below with the NAPA 22070 rear brake bleeder screw installed.
Showing the length difference below - on the left is NAPA 22069, in the middle and right were the front brake bleeder screws off Yoshi. NAPA 23927 is the right length, but isn't fully threaded the way the Toyota ones are - it has some unthreaded shaft which is fine.
Bleeding the brakes didn't change anything, and based on the symptoms I originally suspected the brake booster, but it's not hard to push the pedal... so then I suspected the master cylinder. So I blocked off the master cylinder with some Dorman M1-1.00m plugs off Amazon to isolate the pedal to actuating the master cylinder to try and replicate the behavior and... the brake pedal was nice and stiff, even with the engine running!
Next up I think is to do more reading, look at the ABS and LPSV, then try blocking off parts of the system and isolate what's wrong with this hydraulic system under the higher pressure of the engine running + brake booster.
kenavt
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- Thread starter
- #57
Been a busy couple of months again, but I did work on the brakes some more. I tried triggering the ABS actuators multiple times and then bleeding, to try and address the possible 80-series apocryphal bubbles that form in the actuator. That make no difference, so then this weekend I bypassed the ABS actuators and that made a marginal improvement. I think my next steps are just working systematically through the braking system - replacing the LPSV and then maybe overhauling each corner.
I haven't seen a writeup on bypassing the ABS on a RHD vehicle. I could not find right-angle fittings or Tee fittings in M10-1.00mm bubble flare (stock 80-series), so I bought a right-angle fitting from an axle from the local dealership (PN 47392-60020) and the tee below the master cylinder used from SOR (PN 90413-10058). They come with brackets, so angle grinded the brackets off; then unbolted the lines from the ABS actuators; plugged the ABS actuators' ports (would love to hook it back up someday); then carefully bent the lines and installed the fittings. Need to still clean it up (adding some padding for the fittings against the actuators at a minimum).
Those original fittings
My first ever at-home metalworking
The tees aren't pretty, but they work
I haven't seen a writeup on bypassing the ABS on a RHD vehicle. I could not find right-angle fittings or Tee fittings in M10-1.00mm bubble flare (stock 80-series), so I bought a right-angle fitting from an axle from the local dealership (PN 47392-60020) and the tee below the master cylinder used from SOR (PN 90413-10058). They come with brackets, so angle grinded the brackets off; then unbolted the lines from the ABS actuators; plugged the ABS actuators' ports (would love to hook it back up someday); then carefully bent the lines and installed the fittings. Need to still clean it up (adding some padding for the fittings against the actuators at a minimum).
Those original fittings
My first ever at-home metalworking
The tees aren't pretty, but they work
This was a good read. Glad you came back with some updates.
Lots of good (1HD-FT) info in here
Lots of good (1HD-FT) info in here
kenavt
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #59
Wow, how time flies! I brought the truck into the garage in early December for some maintenance work and more brake work... but then, yet again, I got really busy with work and other life matters, and also distracted as to my original goals. So Yoshi didn't emerge until this past Wednesday. Not a good pattern to get into for poor Yoshi!
My original goals were to replace the valve cover gasket, do a valve adjustment, and fiddle with the brakes some more. But I got distracted by a few different sidequests as I took off lots of parts to do the valve adjustment, and then got very discouraged about working on the truck and started regretting having it. It eventually reached the point four months ago, where I realized I needed to get Yoshi back on the road again to enjoy her, in order to want to continue working on her.
For the valve adjustment: I only ended up doing half of them, since nothing seemed that wrong in the first place. I wrote up some of my experiences in this thread. My main takeaway is in post #3, where I realize this is way easier if you already have the intake manifold out (which I will eventually do to clean out the carbon deposits from EGR, probably around the next timing belt service).
I also found that my insulator foam piece between the air intake crossover pipe and the valve cover was pretty gross; and they're NLA. I'll be writing up my experiences for trying something new for that here in this thread.
I also learned a lot more about the 1HD-FT (and 1HD-FTE's) air intake heater. Some previous owner replaced the terminal on the power wire, and it has frayed so badly that it finally completely broke. I crimped on some 4AWG wire extension, but realized the terminal bolt is loose, so leaving it unhooked for now. At some point before the fall I want to take the air intake heater apart to snug up the bolt; or get a new bolt. I'll be writing that up here I expect.
My original goals were to replace the valve cover gasket, do a valve adjustment, and fiddle with the brakes some more. But I got distracted by a few different sidequests as I took off lots of parts to do the valve adjustment, and then got very discouraged about working on the truck and started regretting having it. It eventually reached the point four months ago, where I realized I needed to get Yoshi back on the road again to enjoy her, in order to want to continue working on her.
For the valve adjustment: I only ended up doing half of them, since nothing seemed that wrong in the first place. I wrote up some of my experiences in this thread. My main takeaway is in post #3, where I realize this is way easier if you already have the intake manifold out (which I will eventually do to clean out the carbon deposits from EGR, probably around the next timing belt service).
I also found that my insulator foam piece between the air intake crossover pipe and the valve cover was pretty gross; and they're NLA. I'll be writing up my experiences for trying something new for that here in this thread.
I also learned a lot more about the 1HD-FT (and 1HD-FTE's) air intake heater. Some previous owner replaced the terminal on the power wire, and it has frayed so badly that it finally completely broke. I crimped on some 4AWG wire extension, but realized the terminal bolt is loose, so leaving it unhooked for now. At some point before the fall I want to take the air intake heater apart to snug up the bolt; or get a new bolt. I'll be writing that up here I expect.
kenavt
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- #60
UPDATE 06/22/25: I ordered the wrong OEM lower rad hose! I ordered an upper rad hose, and shoehorned it to be a lower rad hose by mistake. See this post for details.
Original post:
I also tried to replace my lower rad hose with OEM parts (instead of the Chinese kit I bought two years ago).
I need to do a full writeup on my coolant hose setup because I've never written it all down, and I've learned a few things since then.
For the lower rad hose, it's barely long enough to make it from my 1HZ radiator to the thermostat housing; and I had to heat it up to get it to fit around the thermostat housing. The hose clamps did not fit on the thermostat housing end, so I went out and got some 2-2.25" constant tension clamps (Dorman 14188 for ten, 14088 for two) and they just fit at that end. This is enough for rolling around; but if the hose doesn't relax into a better shape I will look at replacing it with a straight-across piece that I bend a little bit.
Original post:
I also tried to replace my lower rad hose with OEM parts (instead of the Chinese kit I bought two years ago).
I need to do a full writeup on my coolant hose setup because I've never written it all down, and I've learned a few things since then.
For the lower rad hose, it's barely long enough to make it from my 1HZ radiator to the thermostat housing; and I had to heat it up to get it to fit around the thermostat housing. The hose clamps did not fit on the thermostat housing end, so I went out and got some 2-2.25" constant tension clamps (Dorman 14188 for ten, 14088 for two) and they just fit at that end. This is enough for rolling around; but if the hose doesn't relax into a better shape I will look at replacing it with a straight-across piece that I bend a little bit.
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