Yoshi the HDJ81

kenavt

SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 14, 2019
Messages
309
Location
Seattle, WA
Website
www.instagram.com
nice truck, i just picked up a 93 hdj81 and going through the baseline thing also. doing the diffs this weekend (well my son is, i just had shoulder surgery) and possibly the transfer case. i like you reference part numbers, i have a spread sheet i keep all my numbers on,
i have multiple numbers on the belts and have not confirmed or ordered spares yet, do you have the numbers for the belts? 3 total, one set of 2 and 1 of 1. the ones installed are ok (mitsubishi) but?
thanks and have fun.
Yeah, I think it's important to post part numbers when working with these JDM vehicles! I try not to post them until I've bolted them onto my truck and confirm they're good though. I have quite a few parts I've ordered or are in the process of coming in that I'll post once they're on.

90916-02452
99332-61275
thanks, so the 2452 number i have is good, yea! i did not have the other, or even close. thanks again.
not even my post, and still lots of info. this place is great!
I don't know how I found these since this was last week and I didn't take notes, but... I picked up 99332-11260 (-78) for my AC belt, and Conti 17395 for my main drive belt (at a very cheap price). So maybe I'll be ordering new belts again. I see the 99332-11260 appears to be for '90-94 HDJ81s.
 

kenavt

SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 14, 2019
Messages
309
Location
Seattle, WA
Website
www.instagram.com
Lots of little stuff taken care of with some notes...
  • Got new wipers, USDM 80-series calls for 18" front and 16" rear, which is what I got. But on the truck was actually 500mm (19 5/8") front wipers and 17.5" rear wipers. I think I'll step up to that size once I need new wipers again, the extra area was nice and didn't seem to hit anything.
  • Changed transfer case fluid
  • Took the truck around to Torfab up in Everett (somehow my first time). Had them look over it and identified a few areas to tackle.
  • Got some used 285/75r16 KO2s and had them installed! Unfortunately no before/after pics. But they fill out the wheel wells nicely.
  • Went through some generic Amazon crap hood and lift gate struts, none of which quite fit properly... Tuff ones are on the way.
  • Threw on some original Turbo stickers on the rear quarters (75994-60080-03 for both sides). That's key.
  • Spent a whole day going through the interior trying to chase down why I was blowing 10A Gauge fuses. Turns out it was because my AC compressor clutch had seized as part of that meltdown... blew almost ten fuses before I learned that. But I learned a lot about how to go through the interior and chased down the wiring for the JDM toll reader and...
  • Turns out the turbo timer is NOT stock, but an aftermarket Starbo RS-60R unit! It even supports remote start, but I disconnected the antenna as I don't have a fob. I'll have to dig into it more and understand it better.

Posed up with the 33s on stock ride height (a 2.5" lift is on the to-do list eventually)

IMG_3141 3.jpeg


And hanging out with @Seattlehdj81!

IMG_3140.jpeg


IMG_3139.jpeg
 
Last edited:

kenavt

SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 14, 2019
Messages
309
Location
Seattle, WA
Website
www.instagram.com
All of my work right now is gearing up for a ~6 thousand mile cross-country road trip in August! It's been a long time since I've been back with family in the Toronto area, and I've also never driven across the country... no time like the present! Originally I was thinking about doing this in Cara, but Yoshi arrived in time to be looked over and worked on for the journey. Driving a diesel over gas should save me hundreds of dollars in fuel costs too... phew.

So I'm going through my baselining process, but also trying to take care of any problematic areas to make this road trip go off without a hitch.

On my larger baselining list is...
  • install oil catch can
  • replace fuel primer
  • replace radiator, coolant/heater hoses, and fluid
  • install a trans cooler and replace ATF
  • fix the AC - new compressor, expansion valve, and receiver/dryer then find leaks
  • new radio with CarPlay
  • hitch for a bike rack
  • basic sleeping platform
and loads of smaller items. Going to be a whirlwind of a month!
 

kenavt

SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 14, 2019
Messages
309
Location
Seattle, WA
Website
www.instagram.com
Going through my coolant system overhaul and putting together my buy list, here's what I have. I count six main coolant hoses, five heater hoses, and six rear heater hoses (but they don't have PN... but also all look like short straight segments anyway so they can be generic). I would buy one of those cheap silicon hose eBay kits, if I knew I could get all the hoses in time, but those all ship from China so who knows if they would get here within a month. For the NLA hoses below, I'll also do some generic hose - just take it off the truck and take it to an auto parts store.

This radiator doesn't have ports for transmission fluid (it is intended for manual trucks), so I will combine this with a trans cooler so that way I am running the ATF through a cooler.

Screen Shot 2022-07-08 at 18.38.43.png


Screen Shot 2022-07-08 at 18.41.16.png


Toyota PN - Diagram PN - Item
16400-17020 - 16400 - Radiator
90916-03089 - 16331A - Thermostat
16346-66020 - 16346 - T-stat gasket

16572-17010 - 16572 - Upper rad hose - only available overseas
16571-17010 - 16571 - Lower rad hose - only available overseas
16261-17010 - 16261 - Water bypass #1
16264-17011 - 16264 - Water bypass #2
16284-17010 - 16284 - Turbo #1 - only available overseas
16285-17010 - 16285 - Turbo #2 (2x) - only available overseas

87245-60610 - 87246A - Heater outlet a - NLA (replace with generic)
87245-60620 - 87246B - Heater outlet b - NLA (replace with generic)
99556-30100 - 87245E - Heater outlet e - only available overseas
87245-60320 - 87245B - Heater inlet b - only available overseas
87245-60430 - 87245D - Heater inlet d - available some places


and the rear heaters:

Screen Shot 2022-07-08 at 18.42.52.png
 
Joined
Nov 17, 2021
Messages
2,074
Location
Arlington, Wa
i spent a few days removing a pile of wiring from my jdm rig. I've done the same on every jdm rig my buddy has imported. its awful.
 

kenavt

SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 14, 2019
Messages
309
Location
Seattle, WA
Website
www.instagram.com
i spent a few days removing a pile of wiring from my jdm rig. I've done the same on every jdm rig my buddy has imported. its awful.
Yeah... I've heard that from a lot of people. I think fortunately nothing too egregious was done between the aftermarket foglights, toll recorder, and remote start antenna. The turbo timer looks professionally installed, not sure when I'll get that out or if I'll bother.

On the note of those cheap eBay/Amazon silicone hose kits, it looks like some are stocked in the US and ship faster. Interestingly they all seem to variations on this kit (all marked blank or with "GPI Racing), which contains 10 hoses (not the 11 I count) and has conflicting information about whether they're for gas or diesel 80s... interesting. Anyone ever tried one of these generic silicone hose kits on any vehicle? GPI Silicone Radiator&Heater Hose FOR 1990-1997 TOYOTA LANDCRUISER HDJ80 /HDJ 80 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 - https://gpiracing.myshopify.com/products/silicone-radiator-heater-hose-for-toyota-landcruiser-hdj80-1990-1997-91-92-93-94?_pos=18&_sid=0ea356cc6&_ss=r
 
Joined
Nov 17, 2021
Messages
2,074
Location
Arlington, Wa
does partsouq not have everything you need?

I know they're overseas, but it usually takes less than a week to get everything. They are fast.
 

kenavt

SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 14, 2019
Messages
309
Location
Seattle, WA
Website
www.instagram.com
does partsouq not have everything you need?

I know they're overseas, but it usually takes less than a week to get everything. They are fast.
I really like Partsouq… I only counted 8/12 available from them. Amayama has slightly more but a lot longer time shopping out.
 
Joined
Nov 17, 2021
Messages
2,074
Location
Arlington, Wa
before you start trying to replace the rear stuff I recommend seeing how bad the hard lines are, and if they're bad just replacing the whole setup with gates hose.
 

kenavt

SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 14, 2019
Messages
309
Location
Seattle, WA
Website
www.instagram.com
Started and finished installing my Sony XAV-AX1000 radio with a eRapta ETR01 backup camera and the Metra 70-1761 harness, following a lot of instructions from Sony XAV-AX100 Install w/ Backup Cam - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/sony-xav-ax100-install-w-backup-cam.1031758/. I'd pass on the eRapta camera if I did it again, see (Sony XAV-AX100 Install w/ Backup Cam - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/sony-xav-ax100-install-w-backup-cam.1031758/page-7#post-14521642), but the Sony radio and Metro harness are great. I routed the mic that came with the radio up to the driver's sun visor and it seems ok-quality as well.

My notes for later-year HDJ81 owners on the reverse signal... I have not actually seen an EWD or FSM for us with the 1HD-FT. Just a 1990 global one (with lots of 1HD-T info) and a 1996 US one. I spent a lot of time trying to figure out where to tap off of the reverse signal for the camera power and radio trigger, and then eventually realized the LH and RH rear light connectors seem pretty similarall 80-series years and models it appears. The latter years they're called R8 or R9, and pins 1 (white/black, ground) and 5 (red/blue, reverse power) are the ones you want. I confirmed these were the right signals by unplugging the connectors to show the lights didn't work, then testing specific pins by putting the car in IGN (but not starting) and moving the shifter to R (which does turn on the reversing lights).

I spent a lot of time poking around the RHD kick panel looking for a signal, but gave up without a reference to look against and. I ran the trigger wire off of R8/R9 as well - soldered camera power and radio trigger together, then spliced into the R8/R9 reverse signal and ground wires on the reverse-light side.



Screen Shot 2022-07-13 at 15.36.53.png


Screen Shot 2022-07-13 at 15.41.05.png


Both R8 and R9 are "six-pin" connectors but one pin is missing, you can see it in the top left below and in the X in the picture above (which is the other part of the connector).

IMG_3215.jpg


Another note for us HDJ81 owners without the interior light dimmer/rheostat - just hooking up to the orange/white illumination wire on the Metra 70-1761 harness is connected to the taillight signal. So basically there are two modes: if the taillights are off it's daytime. If the taillights are on (because you turned them on via the stalk) then the radio gets dimmer and CarPlay flips to night mode. That works okay for me but I do wish there was a rheostat. Probably some way to hack one in.

I used some quick splices for the first time for getting into the reverse signal and... they seem okay. I dunno. Soldering is way better and my preferred option wherever possible for sure.

So nice to have a modern radio system for music, podcasts, and nav!
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jul 9, 2022
Messages
37
Location
55976
Trying to figure out cooling components on my new 91 Hdj81. I wonder if there are any upgraded replacement radiators for auto Hdj81 which can cover the transmission cooling to?
 
Last edited:

kenavt

SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 14, 2019
Messages
309
Location
Seattle, WA
Website
www.instagram.com
Trying to figure out cooling components on my new 91 Hdj81. I wonder if there are any upgraded replacement radiators for auto Hdj81 which can cover the transmission cooling to?
I would take a look at this thread: 92 HDJ81 radiator-where to get? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/92-hdj81-radiator-where-to-get.1288162/. I'm going with an OEM radiator for a manual HZJ80 since they're still available, and have a used USDM transmission cooler that I'm going to install. And

I saw you linked to a CruiserCorps radiator that was ~$500. If you want a "real upgrade", I would just go look at one of the brand-name radiator companies that will probably be much cheaper and a known quality, and their options for USDM 80s. CSF, Mishimoto, Champion, etc. They won't have the same inlet/outlet locations or angles... unsure of which, just that they aren't compatible... so you would have to figure out new lower and upper rad hoses. But my understanding is that they should bolt up.
 

kenavt

SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 14, 2019
Messages
309
Location
Seattle, WA
Website
www.instagram.com
My oil catch can is now installed! Off a free threaded hole (M8-1.25mm, approx 15mm depth) I found on the engine block above the AC compressor. I don't know if I would recommend this spot, as it was tight to get to and tight to route the hoses. But it does work. I think long-term I'll have to move this for an intercooler or airbox, and will bite the bullet on (or making a bracket off the brake booster like lots of kits do). Used generic 5/8" PCV hose.
IMG_3312.jpeg
IMG_3313.jpeg


IMG_3314.jpeg
 

kenavt

SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 14, 2019
Messages
309
Location
Seattle, WA
Website
www.instagram.com
Radiator swap and complete hose replacement underway, pulling the AC condenser probably wasn't necessary but now it's out. I hate seeing the truck this disassembled.

IMG_3379.jpeg


Accessing the thermostat housing was difficult, especially since my lower rad hose was stuck on and wouldn't come off of its own accord. Haven't seen photos of that on here before. Probably supposed to access it from below, but with my AC compressor out anyway I came at it from the top.

IMG_3333.jpeg


IMG_3335.jpeg


IMG_3336.jpeg


Going to post more details and PNs and such once I'm done and things are buttoned up and good.
 

kenavt

SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 14, 2019
Messages
309
Location
Seattle, WA
Website
www.instagram.com
I'm working through the coolant hose swaps still. The Chinese silicon hose kit only partially worked for me and my 1HD-FT, it's off in little ways that are unsurprising. I'll post more details about what has/hasn't worked once I've got all the hoses swapped and system topped off, for people to follow. I think it would be too confusing to post them as I go along.

Addendum to working on the T-stat: I think if you just drop the turbo air inlet pipes it'll work out fine. I'm swapping the clamps while I'm doing it as well since mine are pretty beat.

before you start trying to replace the rear stuff I recommend seeing how bad the hard lines are, and if they're bad just replacing the whole setup with gates hose.
Thanks @Dusten, this was a good call. They look kinda gross. I decided not to touch them for now though since I'm running out of time for my roadtrip and they're behind the exhaust... I'll drop the hardlines and go to hose when I do the exhaust, or fix em/bypass them if I have to on the trip.

IMG_3414.jpeg
 

kenavt

SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 14, 2019
Messages
309
Location
Seattle, WA
Website
www.instagram.com
My roadtrip!

My plan is to spend a week driving out to my family's property north of Toronto; spend August up there enjoying the lake and helping out with family business; then spend a week driving back around Labor Day weekend. I want to camp most nights on the road; but not planning to do much off-roading... just sightseeing, national parks, and I'll bring my bikes. Go through South Dakota and Chicago on the way there, through Montana (maybe Michigan Upper Peninsula?) on the way back. Probably end up around 6000 miles in total, two weeks on the road, ~four weeks staying put. Should be an epic and amazing trip. Any suggestions along the way would be greatly appreciated for things to do! Wish I could be going to SAS on the way, but unfortunately I can't spare the days and leave earlier.

Screen Shot 2022-07-26 at 17.16.06.png


I want to leave next Thursday... the pressure is on to get this stuff done. I've cut down the to-do list:
  • Finish swapping coolant hoses and put in new radiator
  • Trans fluid cooler and flush
  • Fix AC... been derailed on this one for a bit but should have all the parts now
  • Build basic sleeping platform
  • Try to modify JDM cruise control module for higher speed, or swap it out
  • Install Auber gauges (more optional)
I'll carry the replacement fuel primer stuff and hopefully that issue won't strike, or if it does it strikes in an easy-to-fix way.

Nothing to it but to do it! (maybe in the mornings and evenings to avoid the direct sun of the Seattle heat wave we have right now...)
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jul 9, 2022
Messages
37
Location
55976
My roadtrip!

My plan is to spend a week driving out to my family's property north of Toronto; spend August up there enjoying the lake and helping out with family business; then spend a week driving back around Labor Day weekend. I want to camp most nights on the road; but not planning to do much off-roading... just sightseeing, national parks, and I'll bring my bikes. Go through South Dakota and Chicago on the way there, through Montana (maybe Michigan Upper Peninsula?) on the way back. Probably end up around 6000 miles in total, two weeks on the road, ~four weeks staying put. Should be an epic and amazing trip. Any suggestions along the way would be greatly appreciated for things to do! Wish I could be going to SAS on the way, but unfortunately I can't spare the days and leave earlier.

View attachment 3069905

I want to leave next Thursday... the pressure is on to get this stuff done. I've cut down the to-do list:
  • Finish swapping coolant hoses and put in new radiator
  • Trans fluid cooler and flush
  • Fix AC... been derailed on this one for a bit but should have all the parts now
  • Install Auber gauges (more optional but ideal)

Nothing to it but to do it! (maybe in the mornings and evenings to avoid the direct sun of the Seattle heat wave we have right now...)
Hey if you need a place to crash I’m only a few miles off 90 in MN.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom