Build Won a '74 40 on a coin toss...

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Depends... as I understand, the proper way is to adjust the drag link, but once I got the steering working so well, I didn't want to chance screwing everything up... I borrowed a puller from O'Reilly and pulled it and moved it and popped it back on and it didn't effect the turn signals on mine - YMMV.

Changing my tie/relay rods and TREs and RREs allowed me to properly adjust toe-in (the old ones were bottomed (threads) out and couldn't be adjusted further) and that, alone, brought the steering wheel 'close' to center.

Yeah, my bypass is probably coming from the same MUDder.

My undercarriage wasn't too bad - I went to a car wash and sprayed to large cans of brake cleaner all underneath, let it soak for a few mins and pressure wash it off - came out great!

Keep smilin'!!!
 
I would be concerned about that coolant if it was green before and now its brown. What does the engine oil look like? You may have a bad head gasket or something.

Yeah I need to do some diagnostics - seems like my radiator fluid got low after I bought it. I think I will drain both - engine oil and radiator and see what things look like - hopefully it was just rust but unless this engine is different, radiators shouldn't lose that much volume under normal conditions. My plan was to drain all fluids (oil, radiator, tranny, transfer case) and start with fresh fluids. And as I mentioned replacing rubber hoses and belts. Just don't know how old that stuff is. It is going to go into hibernation for about a month (can't drive it with welded on fender patches without lift - yes I know, the timing wasn't right but this was when my friend who welds is available and the lift is on backorder until mid-June). That will be a good time to do the diagnostics.
 
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Okay so cut the fenders and they're ready - need to cut the patch panels to size and I'll be good to go.

Was thinking more about the radiator situation. When I bought it there was fresh radiator fluid in there. Is it possible that the system needed to burp hence it being so low after I drove it? It was about 24 ounces short. I have since refilled it and put an overflow tank on and I can still see fluid at the top of the radiator. The overflow tank has added some to it but not much. And the brown color was perhaps rust since it was short so much? Just throwing it out there. I will still do all my diagnostic stuff just thinking that could've been the issue.


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Well whats interesting is you said it was green when you first got it. So thats a red flag. Check the engine oil to make sure it doesn't look coolant contaminated. Check to see what the tail pipe smoke looks like. If those things check out then replace your radiator cap cuz those leak a lil with age and its cheap and vital to have a good one. Then drive it around for a couple weeks and make sure you don't lose any coolant. If you don't lose any, check for bad hoses, replace them, then run a good cleaning agent for a bit, drain it and the block, fill, and be light on coolant and heavy on water along with another cleaning agent, run it, then drain everything again and but in a 50% percent mix in and your all set.
 
Well whats interesting is you said it was green when you first got it. So thats a red flag. Check the engine oil to make sure it doesn't look coolant contaminated. Check to see what the tail pipe smoke looks like. If those things check out then replace your radiator cap cuz those leak a lil with age and its cheap and vital to have a good one. Then drive it around for a couple weeks and make sure you don't lose any coolant. If you don't lose any, check for bad hoses, replace them, then run a good cleaning agent for a bit, drain it and the block, fill, and be light on coolant and heavy on water along with another cleaning agent, run it, then drain everything again and but in a 50% percent mix in and your all set.

Engine oil is black, not the milky look of oil mixed with water. Tailpipe smoke is pretty much non-existent. I do have an exhaust leak so perhaps that is contributing to the lack of smoke.

I have a new radiator cap that came with the overflow kit, I will install that.

I will continue to monitor the coolant situation. I like the idea of cleaning things up/flushing and will do that for sure. Appreciate the feedback! I found some good info on cleaning here:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/radiator-questions.799572/page-2

I like the burp valve (post #30) idea as well. I may have to steal that idea... :)
 
Okay so got the fender inserts cut to size - clearly I won't be quitting my day job as some gaps are bigger than I had hoped they would be. Unfortunately too the fender on the passenger side was slightly larger than the insert so there are gaps of about 3/16" in the upper corners. So will have to build up a little bit there when welding. I'm sure the neighbors will be happy to know that my sheet metal cutting days are over for awhile - dang that is loud.

Also, the underside of 40 is coated with an old protective coat - it appears tan-ish in the photos, but when scraped it is black underneath. I'm assuming I need to get most of this off before I POR15 the undercarriage. In some areas it is in pretty good shape. Others it is peeling and can be scraped off pretty easily. Anyone have any advice on how to remove easily? That will be a pretty good sized project as there is a lot of it on the underside. Hopefully someone can share some tricks on getting that stuff off.

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GinMbt, don't be lazy !, put on top of your initial plan list, " polish the total truck myself "

Show your happiness of owning it !

:cheers:
Okay so got the fender inserts cut to size - clearly I won't be quitting my day job as some gaps are bigger than I had hoped they would be. Unfortunately too the fender on the passenger side was slightly larger than the insert so there are gaps of about 3/16" in the upper corners. So will have to build up a little bit there when welding. I'm sure the neighbors will be happy to know that my sheet metal cutting days are over for awhile - dang that is loud.

Also, the underside of 40 is coated with an old protective coat - it appears tan-ish in the photos, but when scraped it is black underneath. I'm assuming I need to get most of this off before I POR15 the undercarriage. In some areas it is in pretty good shape. Others it is peeling and can be scraped off pretty easily. Anyone have any advice on how to remove easily? That will be a pretty good sized project as there is a lot of it on the underside. Hopefully someone can share some tricks on getting that stuff off.

Hi ginmtb,

It nice to know another LC enthusiast in the East Bay Area.It's a nice LC40 you have there.I just finished working on my friend's 82 LC40.I would love to see yours.I live close to you.My name is a Niel and I would love to talk about Land Cruisers with you and also to see your truck.If you're interested,you can call or text me at 925 365 1272.Thanks.
 
Can't wait to see how your fender inserts turn out, it's looking good so far. I've been debating whether to do the same thing as you or just replace the cracked fender flares. The costs are about the same, I just don't know which look I like better and don't know if I want to upgrade to larger tires in the future.
 
Hi ginmtb,

It nice to know another LC enthusiast in the East Bay Area.It's a nice LC40 you have there.I just finished working on my friend's 82 LC40.I would love to see yours.I live close to you.My name is a Niel and I would love to talk about Land Cruisers with you and also to see your truck.If you're interested,you can call or text me at 925 365 1272.Thanks.

Definitely I will reach out soon! Where do you live? I'm out past Blackhawk plaza. I'm still a noob when it comes to these things but I'm slowly learning...


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Can't wait to see how your fender inserts turn out, it's looking good so far. I've been debating whether to do the same thing as you or just replace the cracked fender flares. The costs are about the same, I just don't know which look I like better and don't know if I want to upgrade to larger tires in the future.

I'm excited to see how they turn out as well! Only bummer is I won't be able to drive it for awhile until the new lift kits arrives. In the meantime I'll work on the hoses/belts/electrical.

I like flares painted to match - that would be my second choice. But the stock look is my favorite for sure. If this thing wasn't so stock I probably would've gotten new flares and painted them as close a match as I could.


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I'm excited to see how they turn out as well! Only bummer is I won't be able to drive it for awhile until the new lift kits arrives. In the meantime I'll work on the hoses/belts/electrical.

I like flares painted to match - that would be my second choice. But the stock look is my favorite for sure. If this thing wasn't so stock I probably would've gotten new flares and painted them as close a match as I could.


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Hi ginmtb,

I don't know if you've seen the yellow fj40 that has been here in San Ramon since January 2014.I've been driving it around town and I even met a guy who works at Dublin Toyota who also happens to have an Fj40.I hope to see you and the truck.Good luck and enjoy it.
 
Okay did a little more work tonight - I know, not supposed to work on these bad boys at night. But nothing too major. Took out the old head unit - which required a bit of surgery. Guess I won't be selling that on Craigslist (probably couldn't have given it away actually). I like the look of the radio delete plate in it's place. Ready for the new Tuffy console and DMR! Took the jack holding bracket out from under the seat (jack is in my ammo box in the back). The straps were toast took those out too. Tons of room now under there for my future subwoofer.

Was checking a few other things out and discovered some things I need to fix:

- Clutch is leaking inside the car - I could lightly scrape the paint off where it has leaked (as you can see in the photo).
- At least one of the drain pipes from that little vent on the hood near the glass has holes in the tube - nice point of entry for water. I'm still not sure where the drain on the other side of that vent goes

Also, last night I topped of the transfer case after installing my bypass hose. I'm getting a pretty good leak now - it is dripping off the parking brake housing. In doing some research, it appears I may need the Mudrak double seal treatment (or at least one new seal - haven't checked for a groove). I haven't pulled anything but sure seems like the symptoms I've read about.

I actually spoke with the man himself, Gary at Mudrak. I'm going to bring my Cruiser up there to have him do a look over and get his recommendations. Excited to see that place - sounds like kind of a Cruiser Mecca... :)

Oh and my little light above the knobs actually works - only when the parking lights are on. Can barely see anything. But it does work.

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Here is my little knob light... :) I did get some brighter bulbs for the main gauges hope to install those this weekend. Will be nice to be able to see the dash at night. And who knew that the light switch when rotated dims? It's all about the details...

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Looking good. Putting the newer bulbs in the gauge cluster is on my to do list as well. I read some where on here there's a shield that can be cut or bent inside that isn't visible but keeps light from coming through but if bent or cut greatly increases light.
I Like watching your posts about your 40, i subscribe to your thread, we both picked them up around the same time haha, they seem to be getting harder to find over the last few years so we might have gotten on the bandwagon just in time



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Tuffy console added! Of course though I'll have to take it out completely as the Cruiser adaptor covers the access to the stereo slot. That was lame not thinking about that.

Tuffy needs to figure out their nuts...

(5) provided per instructions
(2) required for drink holder
(4) required for seat belt straps

New math? Then there are the mysterious acorn nuts. Listed in the instructions on the parts checklist. But no mention of them anywhere. Hmm...

Otherwise bombproof!



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Slowly making progress. Tedious work, weld, grind, weld, grind, repeat.

So strange occurrence - I took out the radio and figured all was good. This morning went to start up the car and nothing. Well it turned over once but now is dead. No sound from starter.

Could my battery be dead? The headlights don't work. Dome light does. Tried jump starting car no luck. Battery appears to be 9 years old so it certainly is possible.


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