Build Won a '74 40 on a coin toss...
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- #162
Thanks although I really need to start focusing on the mechanical portion. The Cruiser will sit now for a month though as it is not driveable without a lift (would hate to hit a bump and undo all that work!). Probably good so now I can focus on that stuff.Man you are doing a awesome job, and getting ton done.
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- #163
New battery holy cow what a difference! That baby fires up first try!
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- #164
Well something strange is happening - brand new battery drained overnight. Dead.
Took out old stereo - that's all I did.
Anyone have any insights?
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Took out old stereo - that's all I did.
Anyone have any insights?
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Mike,
I don't have a radio in mine, but I know the cigarette lighter is always active (regardless of ignition switch position) - is it possible that when you disconnected the old unit, you left an open active circuit? Maybe you should have popped the radio fuse...
You should install a battery cutoff switch - until you get your fusible link from coolerman - that would allow you to turn your battery off at night and not worry about burning your 40 and, potentially, your house down.
That's was what scared the hell out of me when I realized mine had no fusible link!
Keep smilin'!
I don't have a radio in mine, but I know the cigarette lighter is always active (regardless of ignition switch position) - is it possible that when you disconnected the old unit, you left an open active circuit? Maybe you should have popped the radio fuse...
You should install a battery cutoff switch - until you get your fusible link from coolerman - that would allow you to turn your battery off at night and not worry about burning your 40 and, potentially, your house down.
That's was what scared the hell out of me when I realized mine had no fusible link!
Keep smilin'!
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- #166
It was a bit of work to get that old radio out - it is possible I pulled something out back there. I will double check.
I did get my fusible link in the mail today and will connect it. The PO installed a battery cutoff switch on the negative terminal (see green twist thingy in photo above). I will use that for now until I can figure out what is draining it.
What I meant was... my cigarette lighter is on and available 24x7, regardless of whether the ignition is off or on - does the same hold true with the radio circuit on an FJ40? I don't have a radio and really don't know.
But, if the radio circuit is active 24x7 (e.g. you can turn a radio on regardless of the ignition), maybe you inadvertently left the circuit active and open...
You can check it with a multimeter and pull the fuse if necessary...
HTH
But, if the radio circuit is active 24x7 (e.g. you can turn a radio on regardless of the ignition), maybe you inadvertently left the circuit active and open...
You can check it with a multimeter and pull the fuse if necessary...
HTH
Does that 'green twisty' battery cutoff work? I've never seen that one.
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- #169
Okay fusible link installed! Thanks coolerman!
And yes the green twisty thing works!
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And yes the green twisty thing works!
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I like the new fenders, you've got me thinking about redoing mine now. Did you have any problems welding them?
I've had that same cutoff on almost all my cars for 10 years now, works great. I added it to give me an easy way to disconnect the battery when doing any electrical work. Otherwise I'd be tempted to leave it connected just because I always think "it'll just be a quick fix" and then sparks start flying. If I don't plan on driving the cars for a long time I disconnect the battery just in case. It also works as a primitive anti-theft system when parking in questionable areas.
I've had that same cutoff on almost all my cars for 10 years now, works great. I added it to give me an easy way to disconnect the battery when doing any electrical work. Otherwise I'd be tempted to leave it connected just because I always think "it'll just be a quick fix" and then sparks start flying. If I don't plan on driving the cars for a long time I disconnect the battery just in case. It also works as a primitive anti-theft system when parking in questionable areas.
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- #171
Welding would've been easier if I had done a better job cutting them to size. Made the mistake of thinking I could cut it perfectly the first time instead of cut slightly big and then grind off material to fit. Couple spots we had to use backing plate. But otherwise they weren't bad at all. Tedious doing those spot welds.
I'm excited to skim them and then prime - I'm thinking that red oxide primer may match well with my faded paint lol.
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I'm excited to skim them and then prime - I'm thinking that red oxide primer may match well with my faded paint lol.
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great thread buddy. been reading it here and there. just caught up. dang i wish i had a driveway or anything where i could weld.
how did you wire the head unit into the fuse block? it needed 12v+ and a "remote" feed right? i just jumped the remote to the 12V+ so it didnt drain the battery when the 40 was off. i tied in to the main 10awg radio wire right before it hit the radio fuse. havent had an issue.
your clutch master is very much on its way out. brake fluid from the master is eating the paint away on the inside firewall. as everyone will tell you, replace the slave the same time you do the master. its also a good idea to replace the slave hose with a nice stainless one. SOR has all the flavors. takes about an hour. very easy job.
a 2" paint scraper from HF and a gallon of purple stuff and a wire brush is what i used to de-gunk the frame. a face shield helps too. that purple stuff is nasty....stuff.
3M, and others probably, makes a weld-through primer in an aerosol can. if you need to leave them for now until you weld again.
my brother just moved to the oakland hills. hopefully ill be out soon and ill look you up.
how did you wire the head unit into the fuse block? it needed 12v+ and a "remote" feed right? i just jumped the remote to the 12V+ so it didnt drain the battery when the 40 was off. i tied in to the main 10awg radio wire right before it hit the radio fuse. havent had an issue.
your clutch master is very much on its way out. brake fluid from the master is eating the paint away on the inside firewall. as everyone will tell you, replace the slave the same time you do the master. its also a good idea to replace the slave hose with a nice stainless one. SOR has all the flavors. takes about an hour. very easy job.
a 2" paint scraper from HF and a gallon of purple stuff and a wire brush is what i used to de-gunk the frame. a face shield helps too. that purple stuff is nasty....stuff.
3M, and others probably, makes a weld-through primer in an aerosol can. if you need to leave them for now until you weld again.
my brother just moved to the oakland hills. hopefully ill be out soon and ill look you up.
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- #173
I just ordered the master/slave clutch combo. And will definitely replace the hose. As my friend says, "this doesn't count towards your budget since it is safety related." I like how he thinks...
I have yet to wire in the head unit. The previous head unit was wired with a little plug that fit underneath the fuse - that was the constant on 12v wire. I have yet to figure out where the ignition wire is tied in. I hope to figure that out this weekend.
Yup, I have a gallon of that nasty purple degreaser. Strong stuff! The paint scraper and a wire brush will be my friend... The face shield is an excellent idea too. Thanks!
Oh and if anyone is looking for a nice tap & die set, Sears has theirs for 50% off:
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-75-p...p-00952377000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1
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- #174
Well one piece arrived today...
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- #175
She's warming up to the other inhabitant in the garage... Of course once I fire it up she's off to her special hiding place in the garage.
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- #176
Anyone know what this is? It doesn't look stock wedged in there. It has a ground wire and and the big blue wire shown ties into the wire that turns on the radio (acc). The main wire off of it (red) is spliced into a black/gold wire which appears to be in the stock wiring harness.
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- #177
Well not sure how, but my draining battery problem appears resolved. Only thing I did was take a stray wire (the constant 12V for the stereo that wasn't connected to anything at the time) out - it was wedged into a fuse. It was wedged into either the headlight or taillight fuse (not sure as mine appears to be mounted upside down - the cover only fits one way right?). It would be the taillight most likely.
Could this be the reason for the drain?
Oh and got the master too! Now just waiting on the hose and I'll be ready to tackle that project.
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Could this be the reason for the drain?
Oh and got the master too! Now just waiting on the hose and I'll be ready to tackle that project.
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i think your fuse cover is on upside down. the radio is the bottom fuse.
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- #179
I thought that too but the cover will not fit right side up. The slots for the cover are different sizes. I will try again but it sure seemed like it wouldn't fit.
Is this the correct image for my fuse box? Seems to have the same fuses identified. Guess I need to pull the headlight one out and see if that takes out the headlights.
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Yes - this is what I suspected. I don't have a radio, so I wasn't sure whether the radio circuit was constantly energized.
Keep smilin' Mike!