Builds Won a '74 40 on a coin toss...

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oh i guess 74 didnt have a dedicated radio fuse? then someone bolted your fuse box back in upside down. the text should read right side up. PO wiring jobs are the "best"
 
schematic shows the optional radio tapped off the windshield wiper fuse. expand pic to full size. radio is #50. wiper wire is LIGHT PURPLE

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Okay so I confirmed - the fuse box is upside down. Headlights at the top. I will work on getting that setup correctly. There are a couple of tabs on the underside of the fuse box. I'm assuming this is where the optional radio taps into. Currently the tach is connected to one. The other appears for the heater. I may put the tach on that one and then put the radio onto the tab for the wipers.

Thanks kruisinkid for the schematic!
 
oh i just linked it from the electrical guru here known as @Coolerman . if you ever need electrical supplies for your 40, he is the go to guy.

if you dont have a meter, now would be the time to buy one. you need to beep out what tabs go to what fuses. is that spliced in wedge part of the tach? did you figure out what that is?
 
oh i just linked it from the electrical guru here known as @Coolerman . if you ever need electrical supplies for your 40, he is the go to guy.

if you dont have a meter, now would be the time to buy one. you need to beep out what tabs go to what fuses. is that spliced in wedge part of the tach? did you figure out what that is?

Yup, I got my fusible link from coolerman. Feel much better now I have one of those in. Would not have known without this forum! Or until my wiring harness got fried.

I do have a meter so I will figure out what is what. I will definitely test and not assume just because the tab is under the fuse that it corresponds to it.

I don't know if that is for the tach or not. I'm afraid to pull it out as it is wedged in really tight and I'm sure once it freed up I will pull all kinds of wires loose... doh! I will continue to try though. Seems right now my electrical woes are taken care of (knock on wood). I would hate to muck things up.
 
Bent my shifter cane tonight - a buddy of mine helped me. We each used our mapp gas torches at the same time and got it red hot - don't think it would've worked with just one.

Now we'll see if I can get this thing back in...

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2nd and 4th gear clearance

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Okay got the shifter back in after a fresh coat of paint. Looks good and definitely was easier putting back in.

Clearance is pretty close with a standard water bottle in the driver side cup holder. Any large drinks will have to go to the passenger side. Still happy with it. FYI - I went with 30 degrees if anyone ends up doing this to their shifter. Perfect for my arms too don't have to reach at all. Almost right at the full extension (I'm 5'9" for reference).


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oh i just linked it from the electrical guru here known as @Coolerman . if you ever need electrical supplies for your 40, he is the go to guy.

if you dont have a meter, now would be the time to buy one. you need to beep out what tabs go to what fuses. is that spliced in wedge part of the tach? did you figure out what that is?

Okay so I flipped my fuse box (it does say "top" on one side). No sight of a light purple wire. The outside tabs definitely go to the heater and lighter. I'm thinking of running off the lighter for the constant power to the radio. Any issues with that? I'm putting fuses inline so there will be protection on those power lines.



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well its supposed to be wired to the wipers because those are only hot with the key in ACC or ON and thus prevents leakage when you walk away from the car i believe. i would beep out what tab, and thus wire, goes to which fuse and tap off the wipers. its also a 20A fuse for for something that doesnt draw that much, but yes you would be tapping upstream of the wiper fuse. you can also take off the steering column sheilds and beep out from the solder joint at the ignition switch. thats what i did.
 
well its supposed to be wired to the wipers because those are only hot with the key in ACC or ON and thus prevents leakage when you walk away from the car i believe. i would beep out what tab, and thus wire, goes to which fuse and tap off the wipers. its also a 20A fuse for for something that doesnt draw that much, but yes you would be tapping upstream of the wiper fuse. you can also take off the steering column sheilds and beep out from the solder joint at the ignition switch. thats what i did.

I actually have the ACC wire so I'm good there. I'm looking for constant power to keep the memory of the head unit. It is a minimal draw when not on should just be milliamps. That's why I was thinking the lighter would be good since it is an always hot circuit.


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oh thats what i asked a bit ago if the unit needed a 12v main feed and a had a "remote" terminal. thats how my amp is supposed to be wired but its just an amp, no front end. rock on dude.
 
oh thats what i asked a bit ago if the unit needed a 12v main feed and a had a "remote" terminal. thats how my amp is supposed to be wired but its just an amp, no front end. rock on dude.

Oops sorry must've missed that. Thanks!

Now to figure out the dash lights not working... Fuses look fine. Wonder if I unplugged something. Hopefully the switch didn't go bad.



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Okay so stereo is in and all is good! All four speakers work and the BT works great. I mounted the hands free mic on the steering column - curious to see how that works over the loudness.

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Now onto the lighting issue - running lights and rear taillights are all dead. Sure seems like should be a fuse...


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