When & how to replace stabilizer bar, bushings, cushions & links (AKA sway bar)

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Insane that they recommend that aftermarket set.

Plug your VIN into Partsouq and look through the suspension diags. Its all there.
 
It's not uncommon to find, rear end alignment off a tiny bit, from the factory. We've no way to fine tune this, with factory's 5 OEM control arms (upper and lower along with lateral).

Stock hieght with or without AHC. There's typically no need for adjustable arms. The minor variation in rear alignment, are within spec. But there are two cases where rear is to far out, even with good OEM control arms:
  • Accidents, damage!
  • Lifted rigs!
Many lifted rigs have the adjustable lateral arm (Panhard rod),. Those with deeper pockets, have the full set (5) adjustable rear control arms. With guards on frame lower arm mounts and lower shock mounts.
 
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Rhetoric said:
Insane that they recommend that aftermarket set.

Plug your VIN into Partsouq and look through the suspension diags. Its all there.
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Thanks yes I was leaning towards OEM. Especially if none of the experts on MUD are upgrading these rear links.
 
I did the fronts today. I am slower than most here, it probably took me two hours or so by the time that I got all of my tools, looked up torque specs, etc. Much of that time was spent trying to line up the sway bar bushing mounts and the link bolts where they meet the LCAs. I ended up using my jack to push up on the back of the sway bar, forcing the front of the sway bar down so I could get the bolts threaded in (see pic to show what I mean). Another good use of the @LandCruiserPhil jack adapter!

Goes without saying but if you take this route only jack a little at a time and be very careful putting your hands near anything that can move.

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mrkdwrds said:
I did the fronts today. I am slower than most here, it probably took me two hours or so by the time that I got all of my tools, looked up torque specs, etc. Much of that time was spent trying to line up the sway bar bushing mounts and the link bolts where they meet the LCAs. I ended up using my jack to push up on the back of the sway bar, forcing the front of the sway bar down so I could get the bolts threaded in (see pic to show what I mean). Another good use of the @LandCruiserPhil jack adapter!

Goes without saying but if you take this route only jack a little at a time and be very careful putting your hands near anything that can move.

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Thank you for your support
 
I want to replace this rusted bolt that holds the front passenger side sway bar bracket to the frame (where the A/C drops water hence the rust) on my 2002 100-Series Land Cruiser. Any suggestions how to do this?

I have the A/C adapter/hose kit from @cruiserpatch coming in the mail to prevent this from happening again but definitely want this bolt out before the rust spreads any further. 😎

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BasedFJ100 said:
I want to replace this rusted bolt that holds the front passenger side sway bar bracket to the frame (where the A/C drops water hence the rust) on my 2002 100-Series Land Cruiser. Any suggestions how to do this?

I have the A/C adapter/hose kit from @cruiserpatch coming in the mail to prevent this from happening again but definitely want this bolt out before the rust spreads any further. 😎

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Clean threads with plumbers carbon steal brush, on all sides. Extra time spent, could save you from drilling out frame capture threads. Soak with penetrating oil (ATF works well). The more you clean and longer (over days if needed) of adding oil. The better the chances, bolt doesn't break. When you do start turning with a 6 point box wrench. Turn loosening just a little at a time. Start with no more than 1/8th 1/4 turn. Then turn back tightening, but not fully hard tightening. Brush threads again and add more P oil. next loosen 1/4 to 3/8ths of a turn, tighten again. Brush and add P. oil again. Repeating working in and out a little more each time. Keep repeating working very slow. Take your time here, pays! Slow is fast!

One bolts capture thread are in the bracket, the other in the frame. If you bust the one in bracket, no big deal. Just replace the bracket. But do all you can to not bust bolt, capture thread in frame. Or you'll need to remove T-bar to drill busted bolt from frame.
 
Anybody ever have to cut this bolt? It is the rear stabilizer bar to link bolt. Didn't think it was going to be a big deal, but the nut really won't budge. Soaked in PB days before job. Hitting it with impact. Nothing. And its both sides too. Every other bolt in the job loosened with no drama. Wish I had ordered replacements. Should I cut them? Other ideas?

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Gartenmeister said:
Anybody ever have to cut this bolt? It is the rear stabilizer bar to link bolt. Didn't think it was going to be a big deal, but the nut really won't budge. Soaked in PB days before job. Hitting it with impact. Nothing. And its both sides too. Every other bolt in the job loosened with no drama. Wish I had ordered replacements. Should I cut them? Other ideas?

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Heat.
 
Try to alternate tighten/loosen on the nut side. If pneumatic airgun, add oil. Use Breaker bar if impact gun doesn’t do it.

Heat too but you’ll be burning rubber.
 
Gartenmeister said:
Yeah. Do you think it should be replaced? Or just roll with it?
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Heh, just noticed your handle! Just lettin' ya know, I am the GartenMeister! My wife might say I'm a GartenPutterer though...

I think I would replace that, but not sure if it NEEDS to be replaced. Probably not.

That is one impressive shedding for sure.
 
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