When & how to replace stabilizer bar, bushings, cushions & links (AKA sway bar) (3 Viewers)

[KMR54]

Yes, and replace collar (pin) also if any wear inside, which usually there is. Also replace bolt if any wear. Nut too is to be replaced, as it's a lock nut. Use a torque wrench, and tighten to 19ft-lbf. Do not to over tighten, which deforms the collar.

To remove top nut off link, if replacing cushions & washers. Place a box end 12mm on nut. Run a screwdriver through bolt holes at lower end of link. Then turn the whole link using screwdriver as leaver/leverage. You can remove the bracket, but so often the bolt securing it going into captive nuts in frame freeze and snap. Really PITA to drill out and retain threads. A nutsert can be use to replace captive nut, but I've been 100% lucky at drilling and saving threads.

Four bolts for bushings on stabilizer bar. With these clean bolt thread the best on back side, than add penetrating oil. The ones on driver side are most difficult to clean thread before turning, but give it your best. Work the bolts out slowly in and out over time adding oil repeated. Taking your time here pays, in not busting bolts.

Perfect. Thanks

 

[PabloCruise]

Removing & installing is a two hour job for front & rear. Stabilizer bar is not generally needed, links often are.
View attachment 1403625 View attachment 1403626 View attachment 1403629 View attachment 1403630


This is Dealer OEM. I've seen after market link kits (link, cushions, retainers & lock nut) for $11. Some go with poly aftermarket complete kits, which I've not priced.

Stabilizer Bar Front

2 48820-60032 Stabilizer link, w/lower bushing $18.06ea, $36.12

2 94184-61001 Stabilizer link lock nut. $0.84ea, $1.68

4 90948-02180 Stabilizer link retainer. $5.43ea, $21.72

4 90948-01003 Stabilizer link upper bushing. $1.79ea, $7.16

2 48815-60111 Stabilizer bar Bushing $10.26ea, $20.52 = Total $87.20

1 48811-60180 Stabilizer bar, Not generally needed $130.00ea, $130.00 = Total $217.20

Stabilizer Bar Rear

4 48817-30010 Cushion $2.72ea, $10.88

2 90179-08062 Nut, link shaft thread $0.76ea, $1.52

2 90385-11021 Cushion, stabilizer $1.66ea, $3.32

2 90560-10275 Collar, stabilizer $?.??ea,

2 48815-60140 Bushing, stabilizer bar W/O AHC $11.55ea, $23.10

4 90948-02126 Retainer, Cushion top/bottom $4.12ea, $16.48

2 90948-02127 Retainer, Cushion center $3.21ea, $6.42

2 48802-60090 Link, $22.71ea, $45.42 = Total $107.14

What year is this parts list for?
100 or 470?
I ask b/c this list looks the same as for my '99 LX:

 

[2001LC]

What year is this parts list for?
100 or 470?
I ask b/c this list looks the same as for my '99 LX:

View attachment 3026201

Without going over that old list, to double check. As far as I known. 98-99 same as 00-07. But frankly I've not run the VIN #'s to see. Don't know why there be a difference, even with rear locker option. So all year the same parts. Except: AHC rear stabilizer bar & it's 2 bushings.

AHC systems (all LX470 and most 06-07LC). Uses a thinner (lighter) rear stabilizer bar. As such, has smaller ID of rear stabilizer bar rubber bushings. AHC use lighter stabilizer since, AHC increases dampening in the turns. SWEET right!

It's why when AHC is removed, and LC style suspension installed. Rear stabilizer bar (sway bar) and bushings need to be replaced, with the heaver/thicker LC bar.

 

[y5359]

I have been wanting to replace all these rubber parts and your post made it much easier to place my order. Thank You!

 

[2001LC]

Anyone in Denver area (front range) have their old takeoff AHC rear stabilizer bar lying around! I need one for a test rig!

 

[usedname]

Anyone in Denver area (front range) have their old takeoff AHC rear stabilizer bar lying around! I need one for a test rig!

Gonna be taking mine off to put on an LC bar in the next couple of weeks. Will send it for the cost of shipping if you like.

 

[2001LC]

Gonna be taking mine off to put on an LC bar in the next couple of weeks. Will send it for the cost of shipping if you like.

Sounds good. THX. I'll pm (DM) you for contact info.

 

[Pulgasari]

Hi, I'm thinking of doing this repair myself on my LX with stock suspension soon - the shop quoted me $700 for parts + labor and I'd like to get more involved in doing my own maintenance. Watched some videos and it seems pretty straightforward, but I have basically no experience beyond 1) changing my own oil and filter and 2) bolting on a 3 piece skid plate kit last weekend.

I have a full metric socket/wrench set and a torque wrench, but no jacks yet (seems like I won't need them for this job, plus I can fit under the LX without needing them).

Here's what I'm planning on ordering, taken from earlier in this thread, except using the AHC stabilizer bar bushing since I still have factory AHC:

In case anyone's curious about the total cost these days, the parts for the rear come to around $140 pre-tax with $15 shipping.

Am I missing anything obvious, and would there be any reasons to avoid doing this as a beginner?

 

[superdawg]

Without going over that old list, to double check. As far as I known. 98-99 same as 00-07. But frankly I've not run the VIN #'s to see. Don't know why there be a difference, even with rear locker option. So all year the same parts. Except: AHC rear stabilizer bar & it's 2 bushings.

AHC systems (all LX470 and most 06-07LC). Uses a thinner (lighter) rear stabilizer bar. As such, has smaller ID of rear stabilizer bar rubber bushings. AHC use lighter stabilizer since, AHC increases dampening in the turns. SWEET right!

It's why when AHC is removed, and LC style suspension installed. Rear stabilizer bar (sway bar) and bushings need to be replaced, with the heaver/thicker LC bar.

I can't stress this enough. Way too much body roll on LC springs and T bars with LX sway bars. If I remember correctly, I replaced both my front sway bar and rear sway bar with LC. Much less body roll going around corners.

 

[2001LC]

I can't stress this enough. Way too much body roll on LC springs and T bars with LX sway bars. If I remember correctly, I replaced both my front sway bar and rear sway bar with LC. Much less body roll going around corners.

All 100 series have the same "front" stabilizer bar (sway bar)

The rear AHC stabilizer bar is thinner and bushing have smaller ID to hold bar, than the Non AHC.

 

[Mike NXP]

Does anyone out there have some advice on how to stiffen up the body roll my rig experiences at highway speed and turning? Some details below.

I wonder if my OEM sway bar cushions are already shot or if I need to get something stiffer to handle the added weight.

Vehicle info: 02 cruiser weighing in around 6500 when loaded

• Front - Toyota shocks ( new ) and torsion bars ( original )
• Rear - Dobinsions coils to handle the weight along with their shocks.
• When loaded my rake is pretty good but when not loaded I am sitting too high in the rear. I have the sway effect either way.
• Steering rack, tie rods, bearings, hubs, flanges, etc. are all new OEM installed not too long ago
• Tire are new Ko2s with 40-50psi
• Sway bar parts were replaced 70k miles ago when I first bought the truck. The look visually OK, some cracks.
  
  

Should note that:

• I have a bit of dead zone / wiggle in my steering wheel. Especially noticeable at highway speeds. I can kinda wiggle idk 5ish degrees either way with no reaction from the vehicle
• I bitched and moaned at Toyota for weeks since they installed my rack and I even went to another alignment shop who said everything is fineee just fine.

it's not to the point of dangerous sway but it is bad enough where I'm nervous to have my wife drive highway speeds when loaded. Anything more than ever so gentle inputs and its sketchy.


Leaves me wondering, what can I do to help stiffen up the body roll?

 

[Pulgasari]

Update, I just finished replacing all the bushings and links in the rear sway bar. This was my first mechanical repair, took around 5 hours all in but a lot of this time was spent cleaning the sway bar and underside since I took the entire thing off.

Got rid of the creaking noise coming from the rear of the vehicle and it drives great.

So, if anyone is looking for a good first repair job, I'd definitely recommend doing this. The parts list was accurate for my 99 LX with factory AHC.

View attachment 3383349

 

[natedawg607]

Did the front a few weeks ago. Thanks for the info on the forum and @TRAIL TAILOR Extended link replacements. The front links / bushings wear below at almost 18 years old and 163K miles. You can see the additional wear on the passenger side from the AC Dripping in that area (added the AC drain hose kit about 2 years ago, but damage was already done.)

Job took longer than expected b/c after seeing the hardware in rough shape, I had to order new everything bolts and wait a few days. None of the metric bolts were in-stock at either toyota dealer or ace. Vehicle did spend first 3 years in Northeast.

Before doing the rear, will order all new hardware first- lesson learned.

 

[SLC470]

I have a 2004 LX470 which had an AHC delete before I bought it. I'm replacing these bushings on the rear stabilizer bar but I don't know if the bar was replaced with LC100 during AHC delete or if it is original. Could someone be kind enough to measure the of their rear bar and let me know the size so I can see if it's LX or LC?

 

[usedname]

LX is 23 and LC is 24 mm - see here: Sway bar options for LX470? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/sway-bar-options-for-lx470.1307755/

I upgraded from 23 to 24 mm and I regret making such a conservative change - if I had to do it again I'd go with 27 mm.

 

[TheBelgian]

About to refresh mine, thanks for the valuable info as usual guys!