You were right, they came off
When & how to replace stabilizer bar, bushings, cushions & links (AKA sway bar)
- Thread starter 2001LC
- Start date
-
- Tags
- links replace stabilizer
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Doing some updates/baselining on the suspension and tackled the rear today. While the bushing didn't look too bad, when I wiggled the links, it was moving loosely. To start, FSM says to take off the rear tires. I was feeling lazy this morning, so I ended up not taking off the tires and just went underneath the car (no jacks needed since nothing was lifted) and took off the link with an angled wrench. The stabilizer bar and links have no stress/weight on it so it was easy bolt-off and bolt-on. I did p-blast the bolts last night to make it easy. And it was easy to undo all the nuts and bolts.
As always, appreciate the instructions you'll put in here. It made it easy to reference and do the work. Done less than 1 hour. All new parts are OE. When I was ordering online, I really didn't get to see what the parts looked like. So, posting some images if you're curious to what you are ordering. Also, the 2 different kinds of washers do have different hole sizes, so make sure you use the right one when reassembling.
As always, appreciate the instructions you'll put in here. It made it easy to reference and do the work. Done less than 1 hour. All new parts are OE. When I was ordering online, I really didn't get to see what the parts looked like. So, posting some images if you're curious to what you are ordering. Also, the 2 different kinds of washers do have different hole sizes, so make sure you use the right one when reassembling.
Did you wiggle the new ones? They also move quite easily in my opinion
- at least where the links connect to the bar
- at least where the links connect to the bar
I tried to wiggle the new ones and it was more firmer than original ones. But, I guess it’s hard to tell the real difference in ride after the change. But what the heck, it don’t hurt to change after nearly 20 years!
I've never done suspension work so I want to confirm--in this picture, this is the stabilizer/sway bar link bolt that is broken, correct? I had a front end clunk and steering was a little sloppy, so I was checking tie rods and ball joints and noticed the passenger front sway bar link bolt was snapped off. Other than instability at higher speeds/load, any downside to driving on it broken until I get it in to have the CV axles replaced? It seems like an easy fix so I may just do the swaybar links myself if I can find the time.
Thanks. That would be my gorilla tape and zip tie fix over a torn CV boot until I get the CV axle changed.
My 2006 LC had AHC, but I removed it.
So the original rear stabilizer bar is the AHC version.
It seems that ideally I should replace the rear bar with the non-AHC version.
Does anyone have any thoughts about what difference this might make?
I am carrying a full Slee rear bumper and CruzerDave drawers, so a bit of weight.
So the original rear stabilizer bar is the AHC version.
It seems that ideally I should replace the rear bar with the non-AHC version.
Does anyone have any thoughts about what difference this might make?
I am carrying a full Slee rear bumper and CruzerDave drawers, so a bit of weight.
This looks like a perfect application for SuperLube grease. Let me know what you think. Hopefully by 4pm 5/21/2020!
Does anyone know the non-AHC version part number? Because I can't find it for the diesel.
Been getting a rattle / clanky noise while going down some washboard roads at lower speeds. My spidey sense is honing in on rear sway bar links to be the culprit.
With minimal force I can wiggle the links back and forth , would this be a sign they are worn and should be replaced?
A few post back someone mentioned the new ones also have some wiggle.
Its not that rusty, if replacing cushions and retainers is it worth replacing the links as well?
With minimal force I can wiggle the links back and forth , would this be a sign they are worn and should be replaced?
A few post back someone mentioned the new ones also have some wiggle.
Its not that rusty, if replacing cushions and retainers is it worth replacing the links as well?
Last edited:
Also trying to track down part number for the bolt / nut for rear stabilizer link bushing
Searched on some Toyota parts sites but I'm striking out, only seeing stabilizer bar and components
Searched on some Toyota parts sites but I'm striking out, only seeing stabilizer bar and components
awesomeissquid
SILVER Star
For MY2000 I am seeing 90101-10172 for the bolt and 94180-41000 for the nut.
Got mine done this weekend. No noticeable difference in handling but a lot of rattles and noises are now gone which is nice.
>> Symptoms
When driving down choppy roads you could hear clanking / rattling from the rear. Always just assumed it was my bumper. Fast forward two years and I could wiggle the links pretty easily by hand.
Only advice I can add is be prepared to replace both links even if they aren't that rusty. The bottom bolt / collar may be stuck in the link pretty good. My passenger side bolt was not coming out, had to use pry bar to bend the link. I suppose it could have been cut if you have the tools.On the flip side the driver side bolt came out with ease.
A little dishsoap was necessary to get the bushing and collar into the sway bar.
All done with tires on the ground and a few hand tools
>> Symptoms
When driving down choppy roads you could hear clanking / rattling from the rear. Always just assumed it was my bumper. Fast forward two years and I could wiggle the links pretty easily by hand.
Only advice I can add is be prepared to replace both links even if they aren't that rusty. The bottom bolt / collar may be stuck in the link pretty good. My passenger side bolt was not coming out, had to use pry bar to bend the link. I suppose it could have been cut if you have the tools.On the flip side the driver side bolt came out with ease.
A little dishsoap was necessary to get the bushing and collar into the sway bar.
All done with tires on the ground and a few hand tools
Trying to figure out how to seat the link bushings to the stabilizer bar on the rear without a press, any suggestions would be appreciated
A press shouldn't be needed for this job. So are you talking about the rubber bushing that goes into the bar shown on the lower portion of the pic below ( not my pic ) If so just make sure you clean up the area real good, a little soapy water or silicone lube and you should be able to get it to push in.
Maybe post a pic of the issue you are having.
Edit, I had a 80 series pic posted at first, 100 series below
Yep, the lower portion, viewed if you will as the vertically oriented bushing in the sway bar. Tried pushing it it with a vice, no Joy. Used lube still no joy. Perhaps the inner pinned must be removed, bushing installed and pin reinserted into bushing
- Thread starter
- #58
The link to stabilizer bar cushion has a steel collar in it, free floating (not pinned).
I remove nut and bolt from each side. Drop the stabilizer bar to have clear access to steel collar insert. I typically just push collar out of rubber bushing while in bar, with a 3/8" (fits about right) ratchet wrench extension bar or large wide blade screwdriver. Then remove rubber bushing from bar once collar out.
If collar stuck in rubber. I'd put a socket on one side, to hold rubber in place. Then with a clamp, press collar through bushing into a socket used to hold rubber bushing in place. A small a drift (possible a short bolt) should work instead of 3/8 extension or wide blade screwdriver. But typically, I just hold rubber bushing with my channel locks flat on back side with one hand. Then push through spread in channel locks I've created. The idea is to not let the rubber bushing move, as you press out collar.
I remove nut and bolt from each side. Drop the stabilizer bar to have clear access to steel collar insert. I typically just push collar out of rubber bushing while in bar, with a 3/8" (fits about right) ratchet wrench extension bar or large wide blade screwdriver. Then remove rubber bushing from bar once collar out.
If collar stuck in rubber. I'd put a socket on one side, to hold rubber in place. Then with a clamp, press collar through bushing into a socket used to hold rubber bushing in place. A small a drift (possible a short bolt) should work instead of 3/8 extension or wide blade screwdriver. But typically, I just hold rubber bushing with my channel locks flat on back side with one hand. Then push through spread in channel locks I've created. The idea is to not let the rubber bushing move, as you press out collar.
Thanks, when I said ”pinned” I meant pin, which is in fact the steel collar. If I understood you correctly, prior to installing the bushing, remove the pin, insert bushing and replace pin inside the bushing. Sound right?
- Thread starter
- #60
Yes, and replace collar (pin) also if any wear inside, which usually there is. Also replace bolt if any wear. Nut too is to be replaced, as it's a lock nut. Use a torque wrench, and tighten to 19ft-lbf. Do not to over tighten, which deforms the collar.
To remove top nut off link, if replacing cushions & washers. Place a box end 12mm on nut. Run a screwdriver through bolt holes at lower end of link. Then turn the whole link using screwdriver as leaver/leverage. You can remove the bracket, but so often the bolt securing it going into captive nuts in frame freeze and snap. Really PITA to drill out and retain threads. A nutsert can be use to replace captive nut, but I've been 100% lucky at drilling and saving threads.
Four bolts for bushings on stabilizer bar. With these clean bolt thread the best on back side, than add penetrating oil. The ones on driver side are most difficult to clean thread before turning, but give it your best. Work the bolts out slowly in and out over time adding oil repeated. Taking your time here pays, in not busting bolts.
To remove top nut off link, if replacing cushions & washers. Place a box end 12mm on nut. Run a screwdriver through bolt holes at lower end of link. Then turn the whole link using screwdriver as leaver/leverage. You can remove the bracket, but so often the bolt securing it going into captive nuts in frame freeze and snap. Really PITA to drill out and retain threads. A nutsert can be use to replace captive nut, but I've been 100% lucky at drilling and saving threads.
Four bolts for bushings on stabilizer bar. With these clean bolt thread the best on back side, than add penetrating oil. The ones on driver side are most difficult to clean thread before turning, but give it your best. Work the bolts out slowly in and out over time adding oil repeated. Taking your time here pays, in not busting bolts.