What is the latest on engine oil recommendations?

[rkymtnflyfisher]

I run the T4 Rotella, 10w-30 in my 2F, at idle I'm 30 plus psi, hammer down I'm pushing 60 plus psi.

Summer and winter. Just my experience on my rebuilt 2F with 47K on it.

 

[Mark Jennings]

I run the T4 Rotella, 10w-30 in my 2F, at idle I'm 30 plus psi, hammer down I'm pushing 60 plus psi.

Summer and winter. Just my experience on my rebuilt 2F with 47K on it.

That’s interesting, I still run the original F in my rig and the F engine FSM quotes (if I remember correctly) 44 pounds at 2400 RPM, set by the external regulator. I set mine with a hot engine with 15w40. When I rev to 32, 3300 I’ll see close to 50. Switching to 20w50, I only see slight increases in pressure (viscosity based). Now I still run a bypass filter system, and some percentage of oil always flows through the filter, and with a hot engine, lower viscosity, I had thought more oil would pass through the filter.

I know the 2F has a different oil pump set up with an internal regulator and a spin on filter. And spin on’s generally have a relief to prevent exploding the filter. The relief is either internal to the filter, or at the pump. Question, Does the 2F Filter have a relief or is it full flow???? (you can tell by looking inside the filter for a spring and poppet)
And from what I’ve read that relief starts to lift at something below 30 pounds…..and from what I’ve read, if it’s full flow (no relief), there is an engine internal relief lifts at the same point to protect the filter. Basically Modern Engines with a relief associated with the oil filter ONLY filter oil at idle, or oil pressures below that setting…..my question for you, is is it worth having a filter if your oil pressure is so high at hot idle and hammer down? Wouldn’t the filter be bypassed all the time? I guess if you change oil regularly, doesn’t matter to much. And most of us here on this chat, I assume are pretty fastidious and change oil more often than needed…but still, why have a filter, it it’s always bypassed?

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

That’s interesting, I still run the original F in my rig and the F engine FSM quotes (if I remember correctly) 44 pounds at 2400 RPM, set by the external regulator. I set mine with a hot engine with 15w40. When I rev to 32, 3300 I’ll see close to 50. Switching to 20w50, I only see slight increases in pressure (viscosity based). Now I still run a bypass filter system, and some percentage of oil always flows through the filter, and with a hot engine, lower viscosity, I had thought more oil would pass through the filter.

I know the 2F has a different oil pump set up with an internal regulator and a spin on filter. And spin on’s generally have a relief to prevent exploding the filter. The relief is either internal to the filter, or at the pump. Question, Does the 2F Filter have a relief or is it full flow???? (you can tell by looking inside the filter for a spring and poppet)
And from what I’ve read that relief starts to lift at something below 30 pounds…..and from what I’ve read, if it’s full flow (no relief), there is an engine internal relief lifts at the same point to protect the filter. Basically Modern Engines with a relief associated with the oil filter ONLY filter oil at idle, or oil pressures below that setting…..my question for you, is is it worth having a filter if your oil pressure is so high at hot idle and hammer down? Wouldn’t the filter be bypassed all the time? I guess if you change oil regularly, doesn’t matter to much. And most of us here on this chat, I assume are pretty fastidious and change oil more often than needed…but still, why have a filter, it it’s always bypassed?

Wix 51515 filter is what I run.

Beyond that I don't worry about it too much. I try to change the oil around 5K, it keeps oil pressure, temps stay in range, and I drive it like I stole it.

 

[Mark Jennings]

Just read this…..another MUD member.

Thread 'If you're using a WIX oil filter read this'

Mar 31, 2017

First off I am sure that WIX makes a great filter. So sure I put them on both my Cruisers. With that being said a faulty 51515 roached my 1FZ. A couple weeks ago before I left to go to work, I started the 80 before I went to work to let it warm up a little since it was around 20 degrees outside. Started and sounded fine as I walked back in the house, sounded fine as I got back in. I always check my oil pressure gauge and temp gauge before I drive off and both were normal before I drove off. Less than a mile later I hear something that sounds like a threshing machine flying to pieces. I...

• fj40z
• Replies: 377
• Forum: 80-Series Tech

• 
• 
• 

The WIX 51515 filter does have an internal relief, point is 11 pounds….

This poor 80 series owner describes the pitfalls of not looking at your new filter before you install it.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Just read this…..another MUD member.

Thread 'If you're using a WIX oil filter read this'

Mar 31, 2017

First off I am sure that WIX makes a great filter. So sure I put them on both my Cruisers. With that being said a faulty 51515 roached my 1FZ. A couple weeks ago before I left to go to work, I started the 80 before I went to work to let it warm up a little since it was around 20 degrees outside. Started and sounded fine as I walked back in the house, sounded fine as I got back in. I always check my oil pressure gauge and temp gauge before I drive off and both were normal before I drove off. Less than a mile later I hear something that sounds like a threshing machine flying to pieces. I...

• fj40z
• Replies: 377
• Forum: 80-Series Tech

• 
• 
• 

The WIX 51515 filter does have an internal relief, point is 11 pounds….

This poor 80 series owner describes the pitfalls of not looking at your new filter before you install it.

I've read through that thread before.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Oil pressure is important. I always have a quart or two in the rig. When dad taught me to drive it was 1 look where you are going - scan the road, borrow pit, side roads, on coming traffic, 2 glance at the rear view mirror - make sure some 18 wheeler isn't bearing down on you, 3 scan the instrument panel - oil pressure, temp, ammeter - you run over something big then scan the oil pressure more frequently for a while. Just keep running the loop - helps prevent surprises!

My 72's oil pressure gauge never worked correctly all the time. It would read low, or high sometime normal. New senders didn't fix it. So I put in a lighted direct read gauge on the steering column in a home made bracket. I ran the nylon oil tube in an old section of fuel hose from the back of the gauge to the engine side of the fire wall - that way if the tube broke I didn't get a face full of hot oil. I have a pipe plug to block off the hole in the engine if necessary. Haven't needed it since I installed the unit back in 83.

As a side note my block heater decide to blow out in the middle of no where. I was driving along in 100+ degree heat and thought I smelled antifreeze - look in the mirror and it was just like a crop duster spraying a cotton field with green mist. I had a spare freeze plug in the ash tray. 10 minutes later I'm pouring in my 2 gallons of drinking water. Yea well it holds 4 gallon of coolant. So I'm thinking if I should turn back 20 miles to get water or press on 20 miles to the next water. A guy pulls up and ask if I needed a ride or help. He also had 2 gallons of water so I was back on the road in like 20 minutes total. I need to get a new spare freeze plug and put back in the ash tray.

 

[peesalot]

So not 30W ?

 

[brian]

That’s interesting, I still run the original F in my rig and the F engine FSM quotes (if I remember correctly) 44 pounds at 2400 RPM, set by the external regulator. I set mine with a hot engine with 15w40. When I rev to 32, 3300 I’ll see close to 50. Switching to 20w50, I only see slight increases in pressure (viscosity based). Now I still run a bypass filter system, and some percentage of oil always flows through the filter, and with a hot engine, lower viscosity, I had thought more oil would pass through the filter.

I know the 2F has a different oil pump set up with an internal regulator and a spin on filter. And spin on’s generally have a relief to prevent exploding the filter. The relief is either internal to the filter, or at the pump. Question, Does the 2F Filter have a relief or is it full flow???? (you can tell by looking inside the filter for a spring and poppet)
And from what I’ve read that relief starts to lift at something below 30 pounds…..and from what I’ve read, if it’s full flow (no relief), there is an engine internal relief lifts at the same point to protect the filter. Basically Modern Engines with a relief associated with the oil filter ONLY filter oil at idle, or oil pressures below that setting…..my question for you, is is it worth having a filter if your oil pressure is so high at hot idle and hammer down? Wouldn’t the filter be bypassed all the time? I guess if you change oil regularly, doesn’t matter to much. And most of us here on this chat, I assume are pretty fastidious and change oil more often than needed…but still, why have a filter, it it’s always bypassed?

It lifts at closer to 65-70 psi.

 

[Pighead]

This morning, ambient temp about 67 Freedom degrees, I get 66 psi oil pressure. When there's snow on the hood I've seen it hit 72 psi. Driving around it's 55 to 60 or so. Warm (180*) idle (750rpm) it sits at 36psi. 2F block rebuilt in 2004.

 

[Mark Jennings]

So not 30W ?

Years ago like through the 60s and 70s, 30w was the summertime favorite. But due to it poor high temperature viscosity, closer to 10 weight at 212 degrees, I think its iffy……here in the future…..with internet info on everything, and a systems engineering thought process. However, I ran straight 30w in the F ‘til 1999, when the number 5 piston came apart…..with 100k plus on the odometer. That wasn’t an oil issue, it was a preignition issue (timing to far advanced, sh$ty gas).

 

[mattressking]

These aren't high tolerance performance motors. 10w40 - 15w40 (20w50 if it is really hot, but Oregon isn't) if your climate is good for it, use Toyota oem or equivalent filter, keep it full and ensure motor has good vacuum/timing and quality mixture. Oils with higher zddp (diesel like you mentioned) are great and aid in pushrod/lifter lubrication. Every forum has a thread for folks to lose their mind overthinking oil choice, you'll likely end up overspending on unnecessary fluids.

That's it.....the most important element is understanding if you have a healthy operating motor. Fancy oil won't fix fuel leaking into the manifold due to poor mixture/carb issues along with poor valve clearance/lash and pinging.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Leaking fuel pump putting gas in the oil - looking at fuel gauge often while driving will help spot as well as the lower/than expected oil pressure. Sniff test the dip stick once in a while.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

So, I’m of the opinion that Viscosity Index is almost as important as ZDDP. The good part, Viscosity Index is way higher for multi grades than single weights. Most multi weight oils, the lower number 15 (as in 15w40) is the viscosity at 212 F. And for these old girls, oil pressure drops to less than 20 pounds at idle…..on hot hot days with the 15w’s. Recently, I’ve switched from a diesel brew 15w40 (Shell T4) to Philips 20w50 (slightly better viscosity Index than VR-1). I would like to try 25w60 Philips Aviation….and see where the hot idle oil pressure falls. The 20w50 gives me a hair over 20 pound hot idle, would like to see closer to 30 on 100 degree days.
But then again, at 10,000 mile in 8 years since the rebuild, I don’t think it’s a hill worth dying on

The higher the viscosity, the higher the pressure; all other things being equal. I personally prefer higher flow and all things being equal in a closed system, that often means lower pressure. So if viscosity is the only variable to play with, I prefer lower viscosity (which results in lower pressure but higher flow - again, in a closed, non variable system). But I don’t see an issue with what you are doing in a 2F. It’s not a 6000 rpm Ferrari.

 

[Godwin]

I have a 2F with 300k on the rebuild and it doesn’t burn oil. Leaks yes, burns no. Primary oil that’s been used in it has been Shell Rotella 10-40. Oil pressure when warm is 40 psi at idle and 60 psi at 1500 rpm +. These pressures have been consistent during the life of this 2F.

 

[igotta40]

Classic XL 20W50

Castrol Classic XL 20w/50 is a premium multigrade engine oil of good all round performance. Formulated with high quality mineral oils, plus carefully selected additives including ZDDP, it is ideally suited to older technology and classic car engines. • For pre-1988 classic cars and motorcycles...

www.classicoilsusa.com

 

[Pighead]

Classic XL 20W50

Castrol Classic XL 20w/50 is a premium multigrade engine oil of good all round performance. Formulated with high quality mineral oils, plus carefully selected additives including ZDDP, it is ideally suited to older technology and classic car engines. • For pre-1988 classic cars and motorcycles...

www.classicoilsusa.com

Cute cans. Sounds like an artisan oil...

 

[charliemeyer007]

I like the smell of real castor oil in a two stroke. Don't like that it floats out.

 

[iptman]

I've been using this lately. 1600 ppm zddp. Readily availabe.

Hot Rod & Classic Car 10W-30 Motor Oil – Lucas Oil Products, Inc. – Keep That Engine Alive!

www.lucasoil.com