What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (12 Viewers)

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Finished my rock sliders and transfer case skid plate.

Just a suggestion: Since you used angle iron for the frame mounts, you could drill through the side of the frame and iron then weld a bolt to the angle iron and hold the skid plate up that way. That way you don't put the bolt heads at risk from rock damage and single shear. Also any impact is taken up by the angle iron on the frame, not the bolts.
 
I cut rust out of my shorty & removed the tail lights I had in the rear end then resprayed it.
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Christmas came early today from the FedEx guy. Got my stock steelies back from Stockton after being widened. Sadly now to save for tires to put on them! But they'll be nice desk decorations.
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Sort of went over the top a little with the refurb of my 40, 4 x disc brakes, 4 x coil springs and FOX shocks all round, 3" 316 stainless exhaust, 12HT turbo Diesel fully rebuilt and ceramic coated, chassis as well as all add adon's galvanised. Lokka rear diff and front Harrop Eaton e-locker diff.
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Yay.. finally finished my rear brake swap. What was going to be a weekend project turned into a month, but at least my cruiser is happy again. They work awesome. I can't quite get the front brakes to lock up first... I can't get them to lock up at all actually. I've got the portotioning valve dialed down to like 1/8 of a turn.. but the rear still seem to be working better. I almost have to wonder if my front calipers are just old and not working 100%. Either way, I'm very happy. The pedal is hard right at the top, it's stops hard and straight. I am totally excited to drive it to work tomorrow.

And... hopefully going wheeling this weekend! Yay!
 
Yay.. finally finished my rear brake swap. What was going to be a weekend project turned into a month, but at least my cruiser is happy again. They work awesome. I can't quite get the front brakes to lock up first... I can't get them to lock up at all actually. I've got the portotioning valve dialed down to like 1/8 of a turn.. but the rear still seem to be working better. I almost have to wonder if my front calipers are just old and not working 100%. Either way, I'm very happy. The pedal is hard right at the top, it's stops hard and straight. I am totally excited to drive it to work tomorrow.

And... hopefully going wheeling this weekend! Yay!
 
hi I am new to this forum and this thread is very inspirational! Hope to have a 40 in the driveway within the next few months
 
Finally get to post something good on this! I have a 350 Chevrolet engine going in my 1967 fj40. With a NV4500, and I just got the adapter kit from Advanced Adapters! I have had some help on this already but want to ask this question going from a old T-case to a 1973 T-case?? What will I need to do to my Axles? Just warn locking hubs or what? going from vacuum to the newer 73 style? Thanks

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Took her out for a nice day trip. I absolutely LOVE the rear disks. They worked great, it's so nice having a nice hard pedal and have the brakes work just as well backwards as forwards! Good thing they worked great too because Signal Peak is NOT somewhere I would want to have my brakes fail.

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Sold the house and the oversized 3 car garage went with it. I could easily fit 5 fj40's in it with room to walk around them if I had 5. Packed up the fj40 and put in a storage unit till the fall. The warn 8274 worked great to winch up on the trailer.
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Replaced the rear U-Joints. Also replaced rear seal in transfer case while I was in to check the parking brake pads (which were in good shape). Cleaned the drive shaft while it was out and painted it with Chassis black (from Eastwood). Replace the carb with that aftermarket carb off ebay. I am pleased with how the truck is running now.
 
Just a suggestion: Since you used angle iron for the frame mounts, you could drill through the side of the frame and iron then weld a bolt to the angle iron and hold the skid plate up that way. That way you don't put the bolt heads at risk from rock damage and single shear. Also any impact is taken up by the angle iron on the frame, not the bolts.


I kept trying to do it the other way but with it plated all the way up wouldn't work...I didn't even think of just welding a bolt to it...thanks for the tip...now i'm gonna piss the wife off again with another day under it...I looked at he original rivits and there weren't any scratches in that area so I thought I would give it a shot, maybe i'll replace them with flatter allan head bolts and counter sink them.....I did find that the 1/4" plate steel is going to need some more supports...came down hard on something last week and bent the crap out of it....glad it was there or the TCase would have been toast.
 
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Sort of went over the top a little with the refurb of my 40, 4 x disc brakes, 4 x coil springs and FOX shocks all round, 3" 316 stainless exhaust, 12HT turbo Diesel fully rebuilt and ceramic coated, chassis as well as all add adon's galvanised. Lokka rear diff and front Harrop Eaton e-locker diff.

You got a lot done in a week LOL! Looking sweet!

Pete
 
My 3FE had a miss when it got warm so I cleaned the distributor cap and rotor, now purrs like a kitten. Then drove it like I stole it to the pick n pull to get some hilux parts. What a great ride.
 

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