Replaced my rear hatch struts today. Actually quite a nice upgrade! The hatch comes right up under its own steam now with the new struts!
What have you done to your 200 Series this week?
- Thread starter MScruiser
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Mine are being delivered tomorrow and I can wait to install them! Sometimes the little things make it feel so new.
Did you get OE or aftermarket? Something I need to do
Go OEM. I did aftermarket and they aren't tuned as well to the power lift gate and it completely destroyed the mount.
I went OEM from the dealership. If they last another 10 years, it's worth the extra $30. Have heard that third-party struts fail prematurely.
Removed my middle row in anticipation of picking up a treadmill. Those seats, especially the 60% side, are stupid heavy!
Think there’s any option out there for struts that make the hatch go higher? I’ve taken them off and the door can easily go up another 4-6”. I’m 6’6” and would love to be able to walk under the hatch without ducking lol
Plausible.
You'll have to figure out if there's more room for a longer strut body (put a rubber band on the shaft to see if it leaves additional room when compressed
If there is, lookup references to find a longer model that with fit with matching force.
From what I have researched, you'd need a longer strut and move the mounting point on either the hatch or the D-pillar to compensate for the geometry change. I wish it were simpler, as I am 6'1" and it's a bit short for me, too.
Found this today.
Cyl 8. Nothing in 6. Three days ago noticed a misfire that only happened at cold start. Zero overheat, no codes.. will stop driving it while I tear it down and assess. Hoping the total lack of thermal issues means the block and head are ok.
Will post more as I dig into it.
Cyl 8. Nothing in 6. Three days ago noticed a misfire that only happened at cold start. Zero overheat, no codes.. will stop driving it while I tear it down and assess. Hoping the total lack of thermal issues means the block and head are ok.
Will post more as I dig into it.
Anyone recommend a good set of 1" wheel spacers? Everything I see is 1.25+. Anyone running a set of 1"?
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
Bora - they’ll make a 1” for you
Just make sure you have a rim that has pockets on the back to fit the studs and nuts from the 1" spacer.
OEM wheels won't work with spacers?
Depends on the wheels and the spacers. With a wide enough spacer they cover the stock wheel studs, if the spacer isn't wide enough then you have stock stud sticking out and some wheels have a pocket on the back of the wheel that can tuck the stud some have a completely flat mounting surface that can not.
For example this wheel would work
This wheel would NOT work
Not my images just quickly found on the internet.
Oh, understood. Thank you.Depends on the wheels and the spacers. With a wide enough spacer they cover the stock wheel studs, if the spacer isn't wide enough then you have stock stud sticking out and some wheels have a pocket on the back of the wheel that can tuck the stud some have a completely flat mounting surface that can not.
For example this wheel would work
This wheel would NOT work
Not my images just quickly found on the internet.
The only experience I have is with the BBS forged that do have the pockets but I do remember someone on here having a problem with the thinner wheel spacer and getting the wheel to sit flat and if I remember correctly ended with their wheel coming off.
Bummed to see this. I know you're resourceful and will figure this out, but still bummed to see the venerable LC let anyone down.
Any thoughts as to possible causations? How many miles are on her now?
I’m starting to buy in to the theory that the head gaskets themselves were faulty for at least some part of a production run. There seems to be a band of 2013s that lose a HG. And while some of them couldn’t rule out an overheat scenario somewhere in their lifespan, or no confirmed drain & fill maintenance history, mine and a couple others I seem to remember point to no real “event” or neglect.
~233k miles. 105 in Tennessee then I brought it to Texas. I rarely tow. Much of the mileage is from lightly loaded trips back and forth to Colorado.. probably 50k of it.
It’s coming apart fine, though I anticipate a delay to find a solid way to handle the crank bolt. None of the hold back tools I’ve seen list support for the 5.7. Maybe a question for @cruiseroutfit .. any tool recs maybe?
On the bright side, I had motor mounts, starter, thermostat, and a few other parts sitting on the shelf waiting to go in as PM. And had been trying to figure out when to address the front timing cover oil leak and slightly noisy driver’s side chain tensioner.
Now I’ll have a lot of room to do that stuff.
Maybe a PS pump. Steering rack not a horrible idea?
This certainly sucks but I’m fortunate to not have to pay someone to get it fixed. Good excuse for a few new tools.
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