What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (21 Viewers)

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OK, so, here's my take on adding additional power to the cargo area, in this case, to my LX. Upfront, going to give full credit to members of this forum. I used information from numerous generous contributors to devise a set up that would work best for my needs. Hopefully, this post gives a little back.

Parts:
Blue Sea Systems 4356 Below Outlet Deck
Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover
Blue Sea Systems 187 Series, 285 Series & Klixon Circuit Breakers
EWCS 8 AWG UL Approved Marine Grade Tinned Copper Boat Battery Cable Rated 600 Volts Spec - Made in USA! - RED - 50 FEET
PENSON CAYQK007010 Hydraulic Wire Battery Cable Lug Terminal Crimper Crimping Tool, 9 Dies, 10 Ton
+ various SELTERM connectors
25 Toyota Trim Panel Retainer Clips 90467-10188 Sienna

I chose to velcro the 50 amp (I know, overkill) circuit breaker close to the main battery, thus giving me the option to move it later if a dual battery setup was needed.
IMG_5786.JPG
Made and crimped our own cables
From there, fed the 8 gauge through the main firewall grommet, which was punctured w/a small awl, then fed the length of the wire through...
IMG_5795.JPG

Firewall...

Once through the fire, we neatly tucked it down through the drivers side kick panel and along the length of the vehicle under the carpet/running boards, behind the sub and into the jack storage area (it's good to have a bunch of new interior panel clips if the existing ones are brittle
IMG_5815.JPG

For the fuse panel, I again chose to velcro to cleaned, smooth surface, connecting the main line to the + terminal and - to the factory ground inside the jack compartment
IMG_5814.JPG


From there, finished up with the pre-wired Blue Sea panel. One feature that I really like about this set up is the ability to not only turn off power to the Blue Sea panel from its integrated switch, but to also cutoff power to the entire aux fuse panel from the breaker at the battery. At this point I don't have a lot of accessories that need power from the cargo area, but as I build forward, I'll have plenty of access clear fused power.

IMG_5826.JPG
 
OK, so, here's my take on adding additional power to the cargo area, in this case, to my LX. Upfront, going to give full credit to members of this forum. I used information from numerous generous contributors to devise a set up that would work best for my needs. Hopefully, this post gives a little back.

Parts:
Blue Sea Systems 4356 Below Outlet Deck
Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover
Blue Sea Systems 187 Series, 285 Series & Klixon Circuit Breakers
EWCS 8 AWG UL Approved Marine Grade Tinned Copper Boat Battery Cable Rated 600 Volts Spec - Made in USA! - RED - 50 FEET
PENSON CAYQK007010 Hydraulic Wire Battery Cable Lug Terminal Crimper Crimping Tool, 9 Dies, 10 Ton
+ various SELTERM connectors
25 Toyota Trim Panel Retainer Clips 90467-10188 Sienna

I chose to velcro the 50 amp (I know, overkill) circuit breaker close to the main battery, thus giving me the option to move it later if a dual battery setup was needed.View attachment 1825388 Made and crimped our own cables
From there, fed the 8 gauge through the main firewall grommet, which was punctured w/a small awl, then fed the length of the wire through...
View attachment 1825393
Firewall...

Once through the fire, we neatly tucked it down through the drivers side kick panel and along the length of the vehicle under the carpet/running boards, behind the sub and into the jack storage area (it's good to have a bunch of new interior panel clips if the existing ones are brittle
View attachment 1825403
For the fuse panel, I again chose to velcro to cleaned, smooth surface, connecting the main line to the + terminal and - to the factory ground inside the jack compartment
View attachment 1825415

From there, finished up with the pre-wired Blue Sea panel. One feature that I really like about this set up is the ability to not only turn off power to the Blue Sea panel from its integrated switch, but to also cutoff power to the entire aux fuse panel from the breaker at the battery. At this point I don't have a lot of accessories that need power from the cargo area, but as I build forward, I'll have plenty of access clear fused power.

View attachment 1825421

Will most definitely be stealing this for my truck. Thanks for posting the products you used!
 
OK, so, here's my take on adding additional power to the cargo area, in this case, to my LX. Upfront, going to give full credit to members of this forum. I used information from numerous generous contributors to devise a set up that would work best for my needs. Hopefully, this post gives a little back.

Parts:
Blue Sea Systems 4356 Below Outlet Deck
Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover
Blue Sea Systems 187 Series, 285 Series & Klixon Circuit Breakers
EWCS 8 AWG UL Approved Marine Grade Tinned Copper Boat Battery Cable Rated 600 Volts Spec - Made in USA! - RED - 50 FEET
PENSON CAYQK007010 Hydraulic Wire Battery Cable Lug Terminal Crimper Crimping Tool, 9 Dies, 10 Ton
+ various SELTERM connectors
25 Toyota Trim Panel Retainer Clips 90467-10188 Sienna

I chose to velcro the 50 amp (I know, overkill) circuit breaker close to the main battery, thus giving me the option to move it later if a dual battery setup was needed.View attachment 1825388 Made and crimped our own cables
From there, fed the 8 gauge through the main firewall grommet, which was punctured w/a small awl, then fed the length of the wire through...
View attachment 1825393
Firewall...

Once through the fire, we neatly tucked it down through the drivers side kick panel and along the length of the vehicle under the carpet/running boards, behind the sub and into the jack storage area (it's good to have a bunch of new interior panel clips if the existing ones are brittle
View attachment 1825403
For the fuse panel, I again chose to velcro to cleaned, smooth surface, connecting the main line to the + terminal and - to the factory ground inside the jack compartment
View attachment 1825415

From there, finished up with the pre-wired Blue Sea panel. One feature that I really like about this set up is the ability to not only turn off power to the Blue Sea panel from its integrated switch, but to also cutoff power to the entire aux fuse panel from the breaker at the battery. At this point I don't have a lot of accessories that need power from the cargo area, but as I build forward, I'll have plenty of access clear fused power.

View attachment 1825421
That looks like beautiful work. I have one odd question:
Does anyone know the part number which corresponds to the battery positve post cover? Mine is missing and I sure wish it was covered for safety.
Sorry to interrupt.
Thanks,
Dave
 
OK, so, here's my take on adding additional power to the cargo area, in this case, to my LX. Upfront, going to give full credit to members of this forum. I used information from numerous generous contributors to devise a set up that would work best for my needs. Hopefully, this post gives a little back.

Also stealing this. Really outstanding to post all the part numbers.
 
Gutted the interior so my carpet guy could come and shampoo the whole truck. Pulled all the seats, part of the console so I could pull the carpet out from under it, the plastic sill trim, ML amp, etc... If anyone in the Metro ATL area needs a great carpet guy, I've got a referral for you.

I really hope the PO of my truck isn't on this forum because I'm going to be talking some crap about how disgusting, filthy and absolutely awful you are as people. Seriously, I can't understand how someone with the means and brain to seek and buy a vehicle like this could be so completely gross all the time. It's upsetting how gross you people are and oh I'm ranting...


No after pics yet as the guy finished as it was getting dark and the car is now at Greer Automotive for a bunch of new goodies.
 
Thanks for all the support, here are some additional pics of the install!

Positive battery connection
IMG_5787.JPG


8 Gauge through firewall grommet
IMG_5788.JPG


Cleaned up template cut (used Dremel w/thin cutting wheel)
IMG_5818.JPG


Backside of panel after Blue Sea install. I used small bolts w/lock nuts instead of the screws supplied w/the Blue Sea panel, as I believe over the long run it will keep the panel more secure.
IMG_5822.JPG




OK, so, here's my take on adding additional power to the cargo area, in this case, to my LX. Upfront, going to give full credit to members of this forum. I used information from numerous generous contributors to devise a set up that would work best for my needs. Hopefully, this post gives a little back.

Parts:
Blue Sea Systems 4356 Below Outlet Deck
Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover
Blue Sea Systems 187 Series, 285 Series & Klixon Circuit Breakers
EWCS 8 AWG UL Approved Marine Grade Tinned Copper Boat Battery Cable Rated 600 Volts Spec - Made in USA! - RED - 50 FEET
PENSON CAYQK007010 Hydraulic Wire Battery Cable Lug Terminal Crimper Crimping Tool, 9 Dies, 10 Ton
+ various SELTERM connectors
25 Toyota Trim Panel Retainer Clips 90467-10188 Sienna

I chose to velcro the 50 amp (I know, overkill) circuit breaker close to the main battery, thus giving me the option to move it later if a dual battery setup was needed.View attachment 1825388 Made and crimped our own cables
From there, fed the 8 gauge through the main firewall grommet, which was punctured w/a small awl, then fed the length of the wire through...
View attachment 1825393
Firewall...

Once through the fire, we neatly tucked it down through the drivers side kick panel and along the length of the vehicle under the carpet/running boards, behind the sub and into the jack storage area (it's good to have a bunch of new interior panel clips if the existing ones are brittle
View attachment 1825403
For the fuse panel, I again chose to velcro to cleaned, smooth surface, connecting the main line to the + terminal and - to the factory ground inside the jack compartment
View attachment 1825415

From there, finished up with the pre-wired Blue Sea panel. One feature that I really like about this set up is the ability to not only turn off power to the Blue Sea panel from its integrated switch, but to also cutoff power to the entire aux fuse panel from the breaker at the battery. At this point I don't have a lot of accessories that need power from the cargo area, but as I build forward, I'll have plenty of access clear fused power.

View attachment 1825421
 
Gutted the interior so my carpet guy could come and shampoo the whole truck. Pulled all the seats, part of the console so I could pull the carpet out from under it, the plastic sill trim, ML amp, etc... If anyone in the Metro ATL area needs a great carpet guy, I've got a referral for you.

I really hope the PO of my truck isn't on this forum because I'm going to be talking some crap about how disgusting, filthy and absolutely awful you are as people. Seriously, I can't understand how someone with the means and brain to seek and buy a vehicle like this could be so completely gross all the time. It's upsetting how gross you people are and oh I'm ranting...


No after pics yet as the guy finished as it was getting dark and the car is now at Greer Automotive for a bunch of new goodies.
It’s called using a vehicle for over a decade.
 
It’s called using a vehicle for over a decade.

Man I really wish the 'before' pictures of when I picked it up showed better. I tried but couldn't really capture it. There was a measurable layer of filth on every surface. If that's normal use to you, I wouldn't wanna see your bathroom :rofl:
 
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I have been working on this for the past week or so. The exterior portion is 3/4" birch, wood glued, dowel'd three times on all long edges and screwed together every three inches. Bolted it to the drivers side 3rd row mounting points counter sunk 1/4" with 1" washers. The drawer is made out of 3/4" plywood plus matching birch face. No fancy slides, pulls nice and tight, locks where ever I stop it:rofl:. It isn't perfect, by any means, but for no more than a $170.00 in materials.

I wish I would have been closer on my color, but, I might take it out again next summer and strip it down and paint it better. Meh, my son is the only one who will really see it.
 
Blow a coil pack on cylinder 8 so I swapped that and since most of the tedious stuff was done I swapped out the plugs as well. Rotated tires and noticed I'll be doing a cv job soon...
 
I changed the oil in my 4.2 Diesel, washed it, cleaned the interior and getting the torsion bars installed this week to complete my 2inch Old Man Emu lift kit
 
Had to build a sleeping platform quickly for the climbing/camping trip to The Red, using spare wood i had lying around. I rushed this as i only had a couple hours to build it, built it at 8am and loaded the truck and left for KY at noon. A queen size foam mattress fits great on it, comfortable sleeping for 2 for 3 days. Spent maybe $12 in materials, didn't have enough wood to make the wings on the side so there's more gap than i wanted but the mattress covered that.

This was just a temporary setup, I plan on building professional looking setup like the KISS drawers that Dave sells when I have time.
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After installing the SPC upper control arms over the weekend I took it in for an alignment today. I had set the adjustments back to neutral and eyeballed the camber. Turns out I was right on. The only thing out was the toe, and it was only a little. They did an inspection and pointed out the rear brakes were bad. It was my bad for not looking but one pad was barely there while the others had a few mm left. One guide pin was completely seized and it took quite a while to free it up, clean and lube it up. Works fine now.

So in the last 2 weeks it's gotten 30mm rear spring spacers, TB crank, brakes front and rear, new CV axles, SPC upper control arms, front bearings repacked, and an alignment.

I also had the tires balanced and rotated today and all of the remaining vibration is gone!

Chris
 
I figured out why my rear locker wouldn't engage on my 1998 LC and why there wasn't any indicator light at all. I believe the original owner simply unplugged the switch. I took things apart, found the connector and plugged it in. My rear locker easily engaged after a couple slow turns on the dirt. In the style of the
A-team... "I love it when a plan comes together"
 
Installed the painless performance 7 circuit power blok. It will run the fuel pump, fuel gauge, ham radio and an 12v plug that is not switched for overnight whatever usage upfront. Made two little brackets and tucked the blok way up in a corner by the driver foot well, maybe too high.

While I have the center console out, did what I could with dynamat.
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Dropped in to check on my truck at Greer Automotive today. Having a few things done.

 

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