How To: Repair Sagging Seat Back Pocket on LC (1 Viewer)

[TheForger]

I'm sure there are multiple threads on here about this topic but I would like to share how I did it without having to purchase any additional parts or tools. First off I have a 2000 Toyota Land Cruiser that is in excellent condition and has been dealership maintained her whole life. But my OCD immediately drew to the sagging map pockets on the back of the driver and passenger seats. Every time I would use them the items would fall out and roll everywhere in my back floorboard. So first you must remove the seat back which is attached only by 2 clips in both upper corners.

Once removed, flip it over and you will notice 8 or 9 little posts with a metal retainer ring around them that hold the net trim to the seat back. I pried and pried at them but those little metal rings are NOT easy to get off! I found out if you break just the upper post on one side of each back you can do this mod. Believe me, I HATE breaking things especially when it comes to my baby but once you put it back together you will realize it doesn't affect it at all and you may even think of another way of reattaching it.

Anyway, after breaking the post flip it back over and pry up the corner of the trim on the side that the post is broken and remove the top elastic string with the plastic fitting over the end.

Stretch the string until you are satisfied with the taughtness of the netting and cut it. I stretched it until where I wanted it to be and then backed off an inch or two (remember, you can always cut more but never put it back!).

 

[TheForger]

After you cut it, melt the tip and press it against a flat metal object (I used the joint on my pliers) to create a flat head that will hold the string in the trim.

Now all you have to do is replace the string under the trim piece and repeat on the other backing! I've already used it multiple times and it has held very well without coming out. If I think of a better way to hold it in the future I might try it but for now this seems to be working just fine. Now for some before and after pics:

 

[Newps]

I found that if you only break it off halfway and leave a nub. You can pull the string through the hole and pitched it off with the nub. Then use a washer and tie a knot in the string. The washer will not pull through the hole and you can re-adjust it anytime. Hope that makes sense. Thank you for the write up, it make this a 10 minute job.

 

[Cannon88]

Thanks for the write up, I just did mine. However, I was able to get the ring off but it took some prying. I got some real small picks (like this http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-pick-and-hook-set-66836.html) and got under the ring just enough to start prying it up. Once it was up a little bit, I used my needle nose pliers to twist it while pulling up. It shaved a little plastic on its way up, which restricted it even more, so I took a lighter and melted it just enough to give a little so I could pull it up the rest of the way. Bam! It came off without breaking anything. Then I cut my string, buttoned it up and put the metal washer back on. Looks factory.

 

[blatant]

it this still the prevailing method? I believe my elastic is completely shot.

 

[Cannon88]

blatant, yes I believe so. You can probably replace your elastic if needed, but using this same method to access it should work. See my above post on how I did mine as to not have to break the tab. Took a little more time but didn't break anything. Good luck!

 

[Dwight S]

You can go to a camping/outdoor store like REI and pick up a piece of shock cord like is used to restring tent poles with. I don't have the exact size/thickness, but it is the thinner of the ones they offer. It will be black. Ask for it, they usually carry it in the store room where they keep the rope and other cords that outdoorsman need. If you remove the top tabs and pull back on the frame like TheForger did, you can pull the old string out. Cut your new shock cord to the needed length (about same length as opening between frame) and use a lighter to melt both ends, making a blob. These blobs will replace the small plastic blocks on the original and will hold fine. Restring the netting and reinsert the blob ends in the frame and reattach the frame. Easy to do.

 

[maxse01]

Nice write up, thanks!

Mine are still good after all these years. If I catch anyone putting anything in there they are instantly ejected from my car.

 

[skhochay]

here is the same thing but simpler version

 

[badlander]

Neither one of my panels want to pull off. I've pulled so hard it feels like something is going to break! I think I can look in from the top and see the clips but nothing is coming loose. Do you pull from the top or from the side? Straight out?
One at a time?

 

[Dwight S]

Grab the panel at the top and pull out & down. It will feel like something is going to break.

 

[TheForger]

@badlander

Grab the panel at the top and pull out & down. It will feel like something is going to break.

^This. It is pretty difficult to get the seat backs off at first, but don't worry because if they were easy to get off they'd be coming apart on all the trails! Start at the top and work your way down.

 

[blatant]

I opted for something quicker and less involved.

 

[badlander]

O.K., I did it. I got the panel off without breaking it. But...... I can't for the life of me figure out how the clips did NOT break. After seeing how they are designed I DID figure out how to unhook them very easily.


A few pointers for those who have not done theirs yet, the first picture shows where the clips are located on the panel.

Now, here's the trick to unlatching the hooks....
Stick you fingers in from the top right over where the clips are.
It is very tight and will hurt your fingers a little but poke them down in there until you feel the top of the clip.
Now....with your index finger push down very hard on the top of the clip and at the same time push the panel back IN.

You will feel the clip pop off of the retaining rod and it's free!
Do one side at a time.
Looking at the clip you can see by the shape how it will unhook as you push the panel in and at the same time push down on the top of the clip.

This picture shows where the clip attaches....on the upper horizontal section of the rod.

 

[badlander]

Here's another take on how to install the new shock cord.....

I clipped off the old cord as close as possible then without removing anything else I drilled through the original hole right on through the panel and out the back side... I used on old hand drill to keep the bit as close to parallel to the panel as possible and protected the surface with duct tape..

Then I poked the shock cord right through and tied a knot.

Same on the other side, and done. With the black cord I think it looks even better than stock now!

By the way, I was able to get the 1/8" black shock cord from our local hi-tech backpacking supply shop. No one else had any small enough.
TheForger,
Thanks for originally posting this thread and motivating me to fix my crappy looking seat backs! Now I'm PROUD of my seat backs!!

 

[SL404]

One easy trick I found to remove the washers without breaking them and then reusing them is to take an xacto knife and shave down the plastic prong the washer is around, then pry the washer off. When replacing it, use a hammer or pliers to flatten the washer out more to account for the more narrow prong, then force it back on. Really easy.

 

[JeffH]

I bought the Kit from Metric TLC and since it came with new washers I ended up prying the washers up just enough to get a pair of sidecutters on them and cut them in two places and they came right off. I only had to remove the top two on each side in order to replace the shock cord the way it was originally installed. The kit I ordered came with a lot of washers so I ended up with 6 extra washers. If anyone would like these new washers to fix their sagging net PM me your address and I'll drop them in the mail to you no charge.

Jeff

 

[koich]

Great write up guys!

I just did a quick fix for now....
But will follow your process to repair the top elastic cord.

 

[abuck99]

Great write up guys!

I just did a quick fix for now....
But will follow your process to repair the top elastic cord.

That's brilliant! You now have adjustable storage.

 

[jahawk]

I went the same route. It's a quicker, and I think more effective fix. The cord locks are like a buck for four, and the set up is adjustable.

Jim

That's brilliant! You now have adjustable storage.

I did the same. I'd say a better fix

Great write up guys!

I just did a quick fix for now....
But will follow your process to repair the top elastic cord.