Thanks. It was quite a bit of work starting with no drawings and just making it up as I go along but that's usually how I fabricate things.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week?
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Parked mine in the garage until further notice 
Landman2000
SILVER Star
Finally got around to replacing rack and pinion/tie rod ends at 293K miles. Also replaced the intermediate shaft and all hardware as well as the power steering pump and high/low pressure lines. Went ahead and did the motor and trans mounts while I was at it. Upgraded to Superpro bushings for the rack as well. Also rebuilt the oil cooler and replaced every coolant related hose/clamp while I was in there. Rides like new.
Question for the masses: Is a greasy brake pad a sign of a bad caliper?
If you actually mean grease as opposed to oily (i.e. brake fluid, shock oil or steering rack seal) then it's the only sources of grease in the area...CV's, Ball joints, hub assembly.
Front or rear? If rear, leaking axle seal, or leaking caliper.
Good Point! I don't know why I assumed front...just what I've been working on, I guess.
When I peeled the pads out of the left front caliper, shims had a decent amount of brake fluid caked around the area where pistons made contact. This is my first brake job as DIY, so I panicked a little when I saw the buildup.
Fronts.
Almost done,
New Hex nuts part # 90170-10039 - 12 pieces.
New Cone washers part # 42323-60030 - 12 pieces.
New washers part # 90201-10075 - 12 pieces.
New Studs part # 90016-10201 - 12 pieces.
New drive flange part # 43421-60060 - 2 pieces.
New drive flange paper gasket part # 43422-60070 - 2 pieces.
New aftermarket extended sway bar links - 2 pieces (need cutting/grinding tool to fit the width as this is wider - 2
job).
‘I think’ I dialed the Caster to maximum possible positive settings based on Figure B on this thread, if you have any other recommendations I’m open to try it.
New Hex nuts part # 90170-10039 - 12 pieces.
New Cone washers part # 42323-60030 - 12 pieces.
New washers part # 90201-10075 - 12 pieces.
New Studs part # 90016-10201 - 12 pieces.
New drive flange part # 43421-60060 - 2 pieces.
New drive flange paper gasket part # 43422-60070 - 2 pieces.
New aftermarket extended sway bar links - 2 pieces (need cutting/grinding tool to fit the width as this is wider - 2
job).And just because I'm back on the forum... An idea i have been flirting with for a long time now came to life. Always wanted to have an improved ceiling console and now (I believe) this came through. Designed it based on scans, by the end of the week I'll go try install it, hope it will fit. If not, some another couple of dozen of hours to redesign, reprint and install....
Finally got to the 3rd and final pass at cleaning the leather in my 98. Used Leather Master Strong Cleaner this go round followed by their conditioning cream. Much better results and the cleaning cloth really showed what I was able to pull out of the leather. I’m happy enough to call it done.
OCD driven. For the airbox bought from them aussies, who claim their cents are not MAF fitted thus no flange available, I had to (re) design and 3D print a fitment. Initially done it in red ASA filament but yesterday received the black carbon fiber reinforced one. So, as usually, redone it...
Ah, one of my last standing neurons told me that I've already posted something this regard, with the red piece printed, but couldn't find my post at all. Then I saw a small notification I received telling me that my post has been deleted cause prior posting I should carefully check what's on my computer's monitor (caught in frame).
Then I realised, one of my friends requested me to help designing and laser cutting in brass a specific sign for a 1940 dagger he's restoring....
Ah, one of my last standing neurons told me that I've already posted something this regard, with the red piece printed, but couldn't find my post at all. Then I saw a small notification I received telling me that my post has been deleted cause prior posting I should carefully check what's on my computer's monitor (caught in frame).
Then I realised, one of my friends requested me to help designing and laser cutting in brass a specific sign for a 1940 dagger he's restoring....
This is my sign to stop procrastinating on this job and just knock it out. Doing mine proactively before the original goes, I drive a lot and would hate to be stranded or worse and the peace of mind would be nice.
What’s crazy, I didn’t experience brake failure. I lost brake fluid. I weighed the decision of just replace the seals, or replace the entire unit. I have a 2000, with 268k miles. The unit was original, then I learned that my specific Booster was officially discontinued. (47050-60041) early 2000’s split between having VSC or not. Mine does.
I did some research and learned that I can use 47050-60042 and repin the pressure sensor wiring to the 2001+ plug.
I partner with Eric at Serra Decatur and he had a unit on the shelf ready to go. Honestly, I made the right decision. I now don’t have to worry for the next 20 years.
Pull the trigger and do it.
Do you have more photos of this project? Curious if this is just the top cover of the airbox? And are you selling this? Thanks!OCD driven. For the airbox bought from them aussies, who claim their cents are not MAF fitted thus no flange available, I had to (re) design and 3D print a fitment. Initially done it in red ASA filament but yesterday received the black carbon fiber reinforced one. So, as usually, redone it...
Ah, one of my last standing neurons told me that I've already posted something this regard, with the red piece printed, but couldn't find my post at all. Then I saw a small notification I received telling me that my post has been deleted cause prior posting I should carefully check what's on my computer's monitor (caught in frame).
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Thats an HD auto air box for the diesel cruisers.
Not of the whole airbox, made pictures just for the flange I've made to fit the MAF sensor.
@Scotty UZJ100 above said it true, it's an HD Automotive airbox bought from them aussies. So, not me selling them.
And just because this just happened today, I had her clutch being replaced along with the flywheel. Again, an HD Automotive I bought and brought from them the upside down Austria aliens.
A 1300 Nm replacement of my previous 740 Nm that I've cooked and burnt in my last trip. While the clutch is still an Exedy the plate and flywheel are HD manufactured.
Lesson learnt, when you're almost 4 tons and bottom glued on a steep incline, don't just forget your foot on the pedal...
A 1300 Nm replacement of my previous 740 Nm that I've cooked and burnt in my last trip. While the clutch is still an Exedy the plate and flywheel are HD manufactured.
Lesson learnt, when you're almost 4 tons and bottom glued on a steep incline, don't just forget your foot on the pedal...