Is this alignment (caster 2°) acceptable?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jun 2, 2018
Threads
16
Messages
56
Location
Maine
2004 LX with 247K.
I had a shop a while back replace the leaking hydraulic suspension. Unfortunately they did not replace or even adjust the torsion bars and my front end was 3" lower than the rear. I recently adjusted the bars until I got to 0.75". As expected, the camber came in off (different shop).
This is adjusted with the eccentric bolts/plates on the lower control arms, right? Is it a PITA, do they often seize up or why wouldn't they make this adjustment? I'm not knowledgeable enough to know whether I need to go back or not.
Thanks in advance!

Screenshot_20260115_143931_Gallery.webp
 
It looks like the alignment shop did a "toe-and-go" alignment where they only adjusted the toe-in.

The 100 uses the two upper control arm cam bolts to adjust caster. Here is a pretty decent write-up on caster.
 
It will drive OK but lower caster will make it track poorly and be pulled offline easily when going straight at higher speeds.
 
It drives me bonkers when you pay a shop to do a job and they can't even do a half decent job, I would not waste anymore of your time going back just take it to a shop that knows what they are doing (avoid dealers) and get the readings right and drive straight down the road. You want as much positive caster and just a lil bit of negative camber, all wheel drive vehicles act differently so it's good to have someone that knows what they are doing. Just my 2 pennies.
 
The Cam sleeves get seized up in the lower control arm bushings and makes it almost impossible to perform a proper alignment (shop probably tried to adjust caster, which just sprung back to original setting). No amount of heat or penetrating oil will break them free. The cam sleeves will have to be cut out & replaced, along with the lower control arms.

I see you're in Maine. I used to live in Houlton... And dealt with this same issue on my Sequoia.
 
The Cam sleeves get seized up in the lower control arm bushings and makes it almost impossible to perform a proper alignment (shop probably tried to adjust caster, which just sprung back to original setting). No amount of heat or penetrating oil will break them free. The cam sleeves will have to be cut out & replaced, along with the lower control arms.

I see you're in Maine. I used to live in Houlton... And dealt with this same issue on my Sequoia.

Can you elaborate on this? I thought the lowers were fixed?
 
The Cam sleeves get seized up in the lower control arm bushings and makes it almost impossible to perform a proper alignment (shop probably tried to adjust caster, which just sprung back to original setting). No amount of heat or penetrating oil will break them free. The cam sleeves will have to be cut out & replaced, along with the lower control arms.

I see you're in Maine. I used to live in Houlton... And dealt with this same issue on my Sequoia.

There are no cam sleeves in the LCA’s on a 100 series.
 
Can you elaborate on this? I thought the lowers were fixed?
I could be wrong as I’m new to the 100 series and still learning this platform.

But just commenting on this as I had this same exact issue on my Sequoia with frozen cam sleeves in the lower control arms & not getting a proper alignment
 
I could be wrong as I’m new to the 100 series and still learning this platform.

But just commenting on this as I had this same exact issue on my Sequoia with frozen cam sleeves in the lower control arms & not getting a proper alignment

Yep, you're wrong. Sequoias, Tundras, 4Rs, etc are not built in this way.
 
Yep, you're wrong. Sequoias, Tundras, 4Rs, etc are not built in this way.
Oh Yes, quickly learning the 100 series is a whole different animal from the Sequoias/Tundras. Initially thought they were similar cuz’ they shared the 2UZ 😅
 
Thank you for the replies. It's a decent shop and i have a lifetime alignment, there just aren't a lot of 100s around here. While i agree it should have been done correctly, i'm not sure they knew how. I'm going to plan on making an adjustment myself and bringing it in for them to check/tune from there.

Directly related, i've cranked my TBs too much and given myself a vibration under acceleration. I adjusted TBs entirely based on forum rake recommendations, and gave myself a front fender 1" lower than rear fender. Vibration appears to be a common result of too much height on the front end from cranking the TBs, but can someone tell me what causes the vibration? I measured my droop to be 4" on each side, which is 100mm and a fair bit beyond the recommended 50-70mm. Do i need to go back to the TBs and crank the front end back until i am at 70mm droop in order to remove the vibration? Lets say this puts me at a 2" height different between front and rear... Do i just live with it that way? (I started at 3" rake and it rode awful and headlights pointed down) Does camber come in to play on all of this?
 
For caster gurus; I’m bringing up this thread since I’m working on the ifs currently.
The goal is to get the most positive caster when the F&R UCA eccentric camber bolts are set, is it Figure A or Figure B? Thanks!
A79EA34E-365A-4010-96E7-0F85F228FA0B.webp
 
No expert here but I believe It's neither A nor B. If you go Figure A (shorter, shorter), you get negative camber. Longer, Longer will get you positive camber. You want shorter in the rear cam to drive the upper ball joint aft towards the firewall. But as you do that, the camber will change to more negative. To maintain camber, the front Cam has to go towards longer which will bring the ball joint out more (towards zero camber).

cster.webp
 
Back
Top Bottom