What have you done to your 100 Series this week?

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frinesi2 said:
Gamiviti makes a mic holder for seat belts that I kind of like. I picked up a few of them a couple years ago.

www.gamiviti.com

Mic Holders — Gamiviti

www.gamiviti.com www.gamiviti.com

Pic from their website:
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I find that I'm way too fidgety and I get in and out of my truck too much for it to not send the radio that I forgot about flying, but it DOES keep it well positioned without sliding.
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When you talk do you pull it off the seat belt or are you able to key the mic button with it on the belt?
 
OEMGUY0720 said:
Awaiting confirmation from Marcus himself if this headers will fit our 100 series. Been wanting to address my exhaust ticking for a while now.
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I just shot them an email as well. If I remeber right from hunting around the main issue is steering shaft clearance which is why folks can't run tundra/sequioa headers. I have also thought that the 120 being a more compact frame than the 100 it may work but really you would need the headers and the truck to find out what needs massaging or if it just fits.
 
Papa Wickey said:
I just shot them an email as well. If I remeber right from hunting around the main issue is steering shaft clearance which is why folks can't run tundra/sequioa headers. I have also thought that the 120 being a more compact frame than the 100 it may work but really you would need the headers and the truck to find out what needs massaging or if it just fits.
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I agree, the floor contour by the firewall of the 120 vs the 100 series is slightly different. They are in AZ right? If they can get a hold of 100 series for a 3D underbody floor scan I think we can get the compatibility question answered.
 
3+ year old one wasn’t clicking anymore so I out with the old and in with the new. Hearing that factory gas cap click again is music.
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Part # 77300-06040
Should help with any gas tank venting issues/CEL as well.
 
OEMGUY0720 said:
3+ year old one wasn’t clicking anymore so I out with the old and in with the new. Hearing that factory gas cap click again is music.
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Part # 77300-06040
Should help with any gas tank venting issues/CEL as well.
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I’ve got one of those in my cart as well. The click has started to be less clicky.
 
OEMGUY0720 said:
I agree, the floor contour by the firewall of the 120 vs the 100 series is slightly different. They are in AZ right? If they can get a hold of 100 series for a 3D underbody floor scan I think we can get the compatibility question answered.
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I think they're in IL. If they had been in AZ, I would be more than willing to drive over there once my front end refresh is done. Haven't wanted to be too far from home with ripped boots & leaking rack. Hopefully will get the UCAs done tomorrow.

With regard to headers, I feel like it could be worth it to try and pick up a tig machine and print some runners to try and figure out clearance. But one step at a time, I'm trying to get the 8 speed all figured out and driving first.
 
OEMGUY0720 said:
3+ year old one wasn’t clicking anymore so I out with the old and in with the new. Hearing that factory gas cap click again is music.
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I recently replaced mine because it didn't have the connector thingy and it was of unknown age. New cap releases pressure when removed. Nothing crazy but it's definitely there. Old one did not do this. Which is preferable/normal?
 
It's supposed to hold pressure. Emissions testing in Texas will even test its ability to hold pressure. I failed last year because of this, but I already had gotten a replacement because I wanted one with a tether to replace the random aftermarket one a previous owner put on.
 
Correct it should hold pressure to a certain extent (I just don’t have the PSI rating on top of my head). @GTV this has been a 3-month back and forth with Partsouq and they or FedEx lost it; and the only way I’ll get a refund is “if I order from them again”. With the current situation in the middle east I opted to do business with Amayama (Osaka Japan based) which is logistically not affected unlike in GCC based ones. I’ll deal with partsouq later.
 
Gave LC a bath. She was dirtier from collecting mold over the winter than when I take her off-road. Collected the last of the front suspension parts so I can finish the suspension upgrade.

@plaidwagon - Glad to hear you are on the mend and doing better.
 
I finally re-foamed the subwoofer. I’ll probably check some other speakers too eventually. I would think the others need repair too by now, but idk.

Also, I think I went a little over board with the rubbing alcohol and flathead….

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I enlisted Trevor ( @TrailBornRunner ) to install new front pass. wheel bearings, races and 80 Series Steering Knuckle brass bushing (100's usually come with part brass part needle bearings but the 80 Series brass bushing is one piece, they're interchangeable and the all brass removes a failure point) Thanks, Trevor!!! Old bearings and races were pitted and on their last legs. Also got him to set the preload on the driver side because there was some play on that side as well all though no growling and grinding coming from that corner yet. Probably should have done both sides at the same time but funds dictated only dealing with the complaining corner. That pass. side had been complaining since early last year, prior to Cruise Moab.

Went with the Koyo Front wheel bearing kit and rear steering knuckle seal from @cruiseroutfit, Thanks, Kurt!
 
R and R'd the Master brake assembly on my '99. At 450k, and some extra run time noted on my booster pump, I swapped it before failure. This is a 1.5 banana job, 2.5 hours going slow. $1180 all in with Toyota DOT3 on a Mr. T sale, shipped. Update: finished bleeding. Pedal feel is marginally improved, but it's good. Did this in the driveway without techstream using proper order procedure. Passenger rear line had some air, Rear driver, minor, and the passenger front had the most air, the driver front was minor. I used 4.5 bottles of the 12 oz Toyota DOT 3 in total (2 to fill reservoir at start, and 2.5 more during bleeding). I probably wasted 6 oz, to be extra sure I bled all air. This was not a hard job, easy to do in an afternoon! Jeeez, my old fluid looks horrible in comparison. I have not been the best at flushing brakes over the past twenty two years, yet this beast just kept truckin'. This unit was still functional, just squeeled a bit.


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Porter said:
R and R'd the Master brake assembly on my '99. At 450k, and some extra run time noted on my booster pump, I swapped it before failure. This is a 1.5 banana job, 2.5 hours going slow. $1180 all in with Toyota DOT3 on a Mr. T sale, shipped.
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How'd the brake bleeding go? How's the pedal feel now?
 
Deflagrate said:
It's supposed to hold pressure. Emissions testing in Texas will even test its ability to hold pressure. I failed last year because of this, but I already had gotten a replacement because I wanted one with a tether to replace the random aftermarket one a previous owner put on.
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I don’t have to get the 99 inspected any longer in TX! Not even an emissions test!
 
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