What have you done to your 100 Series this week?
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What haven't I done may be the shorter answer 
This is all from the past three weeks really.
You know when you hear a noise, fix that noise, then you start hearing other things the other noise was masking? That's what happened when I got my front right CV axle replaced at a local shop last month. Ended up hearing bearing and/or axle noise on the other side and took it right back. Asked them to just look stuff over and see if they found anything else...they found a few things. Originally had been pressed for time preparing for a trip I was going to take the 100 on, but between things they found and things I had already been needing to tackle, I knew that wasn't going to happen. So, ended up doing it all myself and saving a lot monetarily, while spending a lot of my time lol.
1. Radiator: there was a leak in the bottom, so I got a new Denso one from Rock Auto. Did not pay attention to two different dates for the 1998 model they had listed and ended up getting the wrong radiator first time.
Got the right one, ended up replacing the lower and upper hoses while I was added. Also ended up purchasing a couple extra bolts that I noticed were missing. Previous owner replaced it, and there were a few zipties holding things in place or no hardware at all.
2. Starter: Yeah, that kinda sucked....hopefully that is the one and only time I will ever have to do that! I had been getting this intermittent sound for a while, only on start up, that sounded like a metal tink tink tink that I could only place was coming from directly above the oil pan. Whenever I would hear it, if I killed the ignition immediately, then started back up, most times it would go away. Took a bit of reading forums and looking at videos - ended up figuring the starter was not completely disengaging from the flywheel intermittently. Taking the old one off, there was definitely some deformation on the ring that slides in and out, and there was more spring resistance on it than the remanufactured one I replace it with. Both the old and new ones were Densos. I'm assuming this was the original one. If so, not bad for 320k miles. Once I took the intake manifold off, I was pleasantly surprised that everything was pretty clean in there.
3. Knock sensors and connectors: Hadn't planned on it, but I ended up coming across a thread that mentioned replacing the knock sensors since they are right there with the starter, with a couple notes to go ahead and get new connectors just in case. Had to wait a few days to get those, but great call on both. The connectors both were shot and just fell apart in my hands. Quick job putting in the new ones!
4. Intake manifold gaskets: After cleaning everything up the best I could, I replaced the lower intake manifold gaskets. Took about an hour using degreaser and a brush to clean up as much of the outside of the intake manifold as I could before reinstalling. Was pretty grimy in spots. For reinstalling the intake manifold, I had to get an in-lb torque wrench that I also ended up using for a couple other later steps.
5. Fuel injector clip: Broke one of the fuel injector clips trying to get it off and ordered a new connector...I usually am decently successful with unpinning and repinning the factory connectors. No luck with that one. Had to use pliers as a nut cracker and break it all apart to repin the new connector.
6. Heater tees and hoses: These had been on the list for quite a while. Had only gotten the tees and had been waiting to replace them, but decided to go ahead and get the hoses as well. Took advantage of having as much open space as I could have to get to them. Actually was quite a bit tougher pulling the old ones off and accessing the clamps. Bought a few new clamps to replace some of the ones that were on there (a few were the style that had a screw to tighten) but the new ones just simply would not open up wide enough to slide over the hoses once they had been actually had been installed.
Luckily I have gathered several clamps and other random hardware from the junkyard and had ones that actually fit perfectly that I used instead.
7. Valve cover gaskets, spark plug tube seals, spark plugs, and one ignition coil: The shop detected a misfire on cylinder 5 with oil on the spark plug. Ended up replacing all of the spark plugs, the ignition coil for cylinder 5, and the valve cover gaskets and tube seals on both sides. Wasn't terribly difficult, most all of the harnesses and bolts that needed to be removed to get to the valve covers were already loose from working on the starter. Took a bit of clean up work, did what I could to get the worst of it all cleaned up. A little tricky to remove the half moon cam seals, particularly on the driver's side, but not terrible. Used rubbing alcohol primarily to clean the mating surface and remove the old FIPG material left behind in the corners. Reinstallation was actually pretty easy. The only difficult spots were a couple of the bottom valve cover bolts on the driver's side. Luckily the torque specs are low and I didn't have to use much force. Just some tricky access and use of different extensions and socket depths.
8. CV axle: New OEM CV axle from a dealership. All in all, a lot easier than I was expecting. The hardest part was figuring which end I should fully pull out first (ended up being the differential side) and maneuvering things in reverse order for reinstallation. I hadn't realized that there is about a 1/4" gap between between the tube and the differential on reinstallation, so I was worried I wasn't getting it fully seated and kept hammering...until I checked the other side and looked at some other videos and build threads.
9. Wheel bearings: Timken bearings, races, and oil seal from Rock Auto. Got new star washer and 54mm nuts. I had done the bearings on other side a few months ago, so luckily I had what I needed and knew what I was in for. Messy of course, but not too bad.
10. Upper control arm boot: I tore the one on there trying to remove the UCA but found that they are replaceable, at least on the OEM ones. Ordered a new one that came with a grease packet and retaining ring and got that put back on.
11. Oil change: Trying the Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30 for a change, I normally use Mobil1 High Mileage Extended Performance. Read some things about it being good for cleaning buildup, thought it would be worth a try for the next few changes.
I'm hoping that's all of the major stuff I will have to do for a while...always several little things but I need my evenings and weekends back free again!
This is all from the past three weeks really.You know when you hear a noise, fix that noise, then you start hearing other things the other noise was masking? That's what happened when I got my front right CV axle replaced at a local shop last month. Ended up hearing bearing and/or axle noise on the other side and took it right back. Asked them to just look stuff over and see if they found anything else...they found a few things. Originally had been pressed for time preparing for a trip I was going to take the 100 on, but between things they found and things I had already been needing to tackle, I knew that wasn't going to happen. So, ended up doing it all myself and saving a lot monetarily, while spending a lot of my time lol.
1. Radiator: there was a leak in the bottom, so I got a new Denso one from Rock Auto. Did not pay attention to two different dates for the 1998 model they had listed and ended up getting the wrong radiator first time.
Got the right one, ended up replacing the lower and upper hoses while I was added. Also ended up purchasing a couple extra bolts that I noticed were missing. Previous owner replaced it, and there were a few zipties holding things in place or no hardware at all.2. Starter: Yeah, that kinda sucked....hopefully that is the one and only time I will ever have to do that! I had been getting this intermittent sound for a while, only on start up, that sounded like a metal tink tink tink that I could only place was coming from directly above the oil pan. Whenever I would hear it, if I killed the ignition immediately, then started back up, most times it would go away. Took a bit of reading forums and looking at videos - ended up figuring the starter was not completely disengaging from the flywheel intermittently. Taking the old one off, there was definitely some deformation on the ring that slides in and out, and there was more spring resistance on it than the remanufactured one I replace it with. Both the old and new ones were Densos. I'm assuming this was the original one. If so, not bad for 320k miles. Once I took the intake manifold off, I was pleasantly surprised that everything was pretty clean in there.
3. Knock sensors and connectors: Hadn't planned on it, but I ended up coming across a thread that mentioned replacing the knock sensors since they are right there with the starter, with a couple notes to go ahead and get new connectors just in case. Had to wait a few days to get those, but great call on both. The connectors both were shot and just fell apart in my hands. Quick job putting in the new ones!
4. Intake manifold gaskets: After cleaning everything up the best I could, I replaced the lower intake manifold gaskets. Took about an hour using degreaser and a brush to clean up as much of the outside of the intake manifold as I could before reinstalling. Was pretty grimy in spots. For reinstalling the intake manifold, I had to get an in-lb torque wrench that I also ended up using for a couple other later steps.
5. Fuel injector clip: Broke one of the fuel injector clips trying to get it off and ordered a new connector...I usually am decently successful with unpinning and repinning the factory connectors. No luck with that one. Had to use pliers as a nut cracker and break it all apart to repin the new connector.
6. Heater tees and hoses: These had been on the list for quite a while. Had only gotten the tees and had been waiting to replace them, but decided to go ahead and get the hoses as well. Took advantage of having as much open space as I could have to get to them. Actually was quite a bit tougher pulling the old ones off and accessing the clamps. Bought a few new clamps to replace some of the ones that were on there (a few were the style that had a screw to tighten) but the new ones just simply would not open up wide enough to slide over the hoses once they had been actually had been installed.
Luckily I have gathered several clamps and other random hardware from the junkyard and had ones that actually fit perfectly that I used instead.7. Valve cover gaskets, spark plug tube seals, spark plugs, and one ignition coil: The shop detected a misfire on cylinder 5 with oil on the spark plug. Ended up replacing all of the spark plugs, the ignition coil for cylinder 5, and the valve cover gaskets and tube seals on both sides. Wasn't terribly difficult, most all of the harnesses and bolts that needed to be removed to get to the valve covers were already loose from working on the starter. Took a bit of clean up work, did what I could to get the worst of it all cleaned up. A little tricky to remove the half moon cam seals, particularly on the driver's side, but not terrible. Used rubbing alcohol primarily to clean the mating surface and remove the old FIPG material left behind in the corners. Reinstallation was actually pretty easy. The only difficult spots were a couple of the bottom valve cover bolts on the driver's side. Luckily the torque specs are low and I didn't have to use much force. Just some tricky access and use of different extensions and socket depths.
8. CV axle: New OEM CV axle from a dealership. All in all, a lot easier than I was expecting. The hardest part was figuring which end I should fully pull out first (ended up being the differential side) and maneuvering things in reverse order for reinstallation. I hadn't realized that there is about a 1/4" gap between between the tube and the differential on reinstallation, so I was worried I wasn't getting it fully seated and kept hammering...until I checked the other side and looked at some other videos and build threads.
9. Wheel bearings: Timken bearings, races, and oil seal from Rock Auto. Got new star washer and 54mm nuts. I had done the bearings on other side a few months ago, so luckily I had what I needed and knew what I was in for. Messy of course, but not too bad.
10. Upper control arm boot: I tore the one on there trying to remove the UCA but found that they are replaceable, at least on the OEM ones. Ordered a new one that came with a grease packet and retaining ring and got that put back on.
11. Oil change: Trying the Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30 for a change, I normally use Mobil1 High Mileage Extended Performance. Read some things about it being good for cleaning buildup, thought it would be worth a try for the next few changes.
I'm hoping that's all of the major stuff I will have to do for a while...always several little things but I need my evenings and weekends back free again!
Yes, the front is at 5.8 without anyone or anything dynamic in the vehicle. The front has an Ironman 4x4 bumper and a 12k Warn Winch.
The rear is at 3.6 without the third row seats, and an aftermarket under the bumper Curt hitch (~60lbs). I have steel rear bumper with swingouts but haven’t installed yet (signature updated).
I also have rock sliders and roof rack.
Here’s a pic 21” center of hub to bottom of fender and 22” in the rear. It rides so smooth and have no complaints. It feels stable and firm compared to old stock AHC torsion bars and AHC coil springs from an 06-07 LC.
Toyota/Lexus indy shop said alignment was great, a little bit more lift and would need to go with aftermarket UCA.
This just gave me motivation to paint my mismatched fender and touch up the body mouldings. did you source the paint localy or order from a dealer online ?
Received new OEM front diff bushings, AHC "shock" bushings, new rear upper and lower control arms, new panhard bar. Bushings were all toast, and I managed to put a nice bend in the panhard bar from a recent trip, so I decided to get new arms to speed up the install.
Just ordered mine yesterday
Did a repeat today with the big truck. This one is a sand mule as well.. with the compressor and tank, makes it easy to air down and air up (not needed on this trip). With the fridge, cook top and other items, I can live in this thing for weeks.
Man, looks like nice weather and a nice setup. What beach is that?
It was a nice day! I drove down to the MOB (Mouth Of the Brazos), basically Bryan Beach, south of Freeport, Texas.. West or South of Quintana. The surf wasn’t as good as Saturday, so I did some exploring. Did some fishing. Too bad, didn’t get to keep this flounder.. they are off limits right now.
Directly from paintscratch.com. I wish I had a pic showing how bad the molding was before. Really took away from a reasonably clean 25 year old Toyota. I always took pics from the “good side”.
Edit: may want to order the body panel clips from Amazon while you’re at it. The red or yellow ones you can salvage if you’re careful . No chance saving the white ones.
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You’re a regular Land Cruiser service center. Good jobWhat haven't I done may be the shorter answer
You know when you hear a noise, fix that noise, then you start hearing other things the other noise was masking? That's what happened when I got my front right CV axle replaced at a local shop last month. Ended up hearing bearing and/or axle noise on the other side and took it right back. Asked them to just look stuff over and see if they found anything else...they found a few things. Originally had been pressed for time preparing for a trip I was going to take the 100 on, but between things they found and things I had already been needing to tackle, I knew that wasn't going to happen. So, ended up doing it all myself and saving a lot monetarily, while spending a lot of my time lol.
1. Radiator: there was a leak in the bottom, so I got a new Denso one from Rock Auto. Did not pay attention to two different dates for the 1998 model they had listed and ended up getting the wrong radiator first time.
2. Starter: Yeah, that kinda sucked....hopefully that is the one and only time I will ever have to do that! I had been getting this intermittent sound for a while, only on start up, that sounded like a metal tink tink tink that I could only place was coming from directly above the oil pan. Whenever I would hear it, if I killed the ignition immediately, then started back up, most times it would go away. Took a bit of reading forums and looking at videos - ended up figuring the starter was not completely disengaging from the flywheel intermittently. Taking the old one off, there was definitely some deformation on the ring that slides in and out, and there was more spring resistance on it than the remanufactured one I replace it with. Both the old and new ones were Densos. I'm assuming this was the original one. If so, not bad for 320k miles. Once I took the intake manifold off, I was pleasantly surprised that everything was pretty clean in there.
View attachment 4036715View attachment 4036711
3. Knock sensors and connectors: Hadn't planned on it, but I ended up coming across a thread that mentioned replacing the knock sensors since they are right there with the starter, with a couple notes to go ahead and get new connectors just in case. Had to wait a few days to get those, but great call on both. The connectors both were shot and just fell apart in my hands. Quick job putting in the new ones!
View attachment 4036713
4. Intake manifold gaskets: After cleaning everything up the best I could, I replaced the lower intake manifold gaskets. Took about an hour using degreaser and a brush to clean up as much of the outside of the intake manifold as I could before reinstalling. Was pretty grimy in spots. For reinstalling the intake manifold, I had to get an in-lb torque wrench that I also ended up using for a couple other later steps.
5. Fuel injector clip: Broke one of the fuel injector clips trying to get it off and ordered a new connector...I usually am decently successful with unpinning and repinning the factory connectors. No luck with that one. Had to use pliers as a nut cracker and break it all apart to repin the new connector.
6. Heater tees and hoses: These had been on the list for quite a while. Had only gotten the tees and had been waiting to replace them, but decided to go ahead and get the hoses as well. Took advantage of having as much open space as I could have to get to them. Actually was quite a bit tougher pulling the old ones off and accessing the clamps. Bought a few new clamps to replace some of the ones that were on there (a few were the style that had a screw to tighten) but the new ones just simply would not open up wide enough to slide over the hoses once they had been actually had been installed.
7. Valve cover gaskets, spark plug tube seals, spark plugs, and one ignition coil: The shop detected a misfire on cylinder 5 with oil on the spark plug. Ended up replacing all of the spark plugs, the ignition coil for cylinder 5, and the valve cover gaskets and tube seals on both sides. Wasn't terribly difficult, most all of the harnesses and bolts that needed to be removed to get to the valve covers were already loose from working on the starter. Took a bit of clean up work, did what I could to get the worst of it all cleaned up. A little tricky to remove the half moon cam seals, particularly on the driver's side, but not terrible. Used rubbing alcohol primarily to clean the mating surface and remove the old FIPG material left behind in the corners. Reinstallation was actually pretty easy. The only difficult spots were a couple of the bottom valve cover bolts on the driver's side. Luckily the torque specs are low and I didn't have to use much force. Just some tricky access and use of different extensions and socket depths.
View attachment 4036712
8. CV axle: New OEM CV axle from a dealership. All in all, a lot easier than I was expecting. The hardest part was figuring which end I should fully pull out first (ended up being the differential side) and maneuvering things in reverse order for reinstallation. I hadn't realized that there is about a 1/4" gap between between the tube and the differential on reinstallation, so I was worried I wasn't getting it fully seated and kept hammering...until I checked the other side and looked at some other videos and build threads.
View attachment 4036716
9. Wheel bearings: Timken bearings, races, and oil seal from Rock Auto. Got new star washer and 54mm nuts. I had done the bearings on other side a few months ago, so luckily I had what I needed and knew what I was in for. Messy of course, but not too bad.
10. Upper control arm boot: I tore the one on there trying to remove the UCA but found that they are replaceable, at least on the OEM ones. Ordered a new one that came with a grease packet and retaining ring and got that put back on.
11. Oil change: Trying the Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30 for a change, I normally use Mobil1 High Mileage Extended Performance. Read some things about it being good for cleaning buildup, thought it would be worth a try for the next few changes.
I'm hoping that's all of the major stuff I will have to do for a while...always several little things but I need my evenings and weekends back free again!
Minor celebration.
Finally gave into all the peer pressure and changed my radiator, radiator fan clutch, fan blade, and Fan clutch bearing bracket. Glad I did though you guys were right found a slight leak on the back of my old one. Just over 201k miles
Meshal
SILVER Star
This super low mileage GX is finally off from body shop after putting new GX peeled black bumpers. next is some mechanical work then take of those dealership stripes and put the real Toyota one for fzj100 year 2002.
A full set has been collected, took me about 5 months. front fenders were hard.
A full set has been collected, took me about 5 months. front fenders were hard.
These are the most confusing photos I’ve seen on this forum, i feel. What is going on here?
And also, again.. even more confusing photos? What is happening here??????
Is there a part number for this? Or a pic of what they look like? I’m curious…
Meshal
SILVER Star
no, those are at my place, each stripe got its own part number.
Meshal
SILVER Star
those are the part numbers for them.
خط صالون 2002
7598260650
7598660510
7598860470
759926A080
759916A080
7598760370
7598560510
7598160650
Jealous of those ambi-doors and factory tire carrier! Nice.