What have you done to your 100 Series this week?

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Poser pics of new BFG AT KOs in 275/70r18. Running boards on and white letters out, for the haters :flipoff2:. The new tires really highlight the need to crank the torsion bars.
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Changed the oil and center diff fluid today. I used Royal Purple synthetic for the first time. I'm always uneasy with a new (to me) brand, but so far, so good.
 
CV joints, rotors and pads. Blahh, I hate that goopy runny crap.

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I did a few things last week.
I fixed the pesky drip in the passenger floorboard from the A/C unit. Took out the foam seal which was saturated and cleaned the debris out and after letting things dry out real good I used a bead of silicone to seal it. no drip :bounce:
Left the interior lights on when I was working on the A/C and damaged the cells in my Diehard 31M :bang:. Went to Sears in Mesquite, TX and a new one cost me $20. customer service was awesome.
Installed more wires for ARB fridge/freezer.
 
@2000UZJ and @El Cid Did you guys also use MLV (Mass Loaded Vinyl) and CCF (Closed Cell Foam) when doing the sound proofing?

Dynamat will stop resonance, but the MLV/CCF stops sound. I tested just Dynamat and then added MLV/CCF - there's a marked difference. The crappy subwoofer back there hits a million times harder. It's also 20x harder of a job to do then Dynamat. I don't really recommend it unless you have 20-30 hours to kill. I also hung it from the doors. It was a very interesting experience. Have yet to lay it down under the front seats or front wheel wells.

You can read about it here: http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

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I can sympathize with you!

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Also highly recommend the SDS products. It's hard to believe people are still spending crazy money on Dynamat name brand!
 
@gwatts Why is the MLV/CCF so much more difficult to put down than Dynamat?
 
@TheForger Dynamat is peel and stick - you can put it anywhere and is not needed to cover the entire area. MLV/CCF needs to cover the entire area and create a barrier (to be effective) and can only be attached with velcro (when not on a horizontal surface - like a door panel). You have to template and cut and adjust. MLV also doesn't compress - its solid at a pound per square foot. That said, doing just the floor, was super easy compared to the doors and the wheel wells.

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/ Has some nice galleries of installs and you can see how much work is involved. They now have Land Cruiser kits - which I didn't use - I sourced some things from them and others earlier this year. I'm not affiliated with SDS, it was just an amazing resource to have.
 
New OEM radiator (Thanks Onur), with a full system flush. OEM cap was defective as it had no retention to the radiator. Need to call Onur
Full transmission (OregonLC method) flush in Mobil 1 - 19 quarts $$$$$$
New ARB fog lights, IPF 968 lights with a factory switch
4 new duratracs 285/75/16s. - this is my second set. First set lasted 45,000 miles.
 
Replaced the starter today. Have been putting off but wanted to get it done before it died completely. Wasn't near as bad as I expected. Took me about 2 1/2 hours.
 
First road trip - only about 800 miles total, but performed flawlessly and was a joy the entire time.
 
Replaced transmission fluid and rear diff oil. Royal Purple is getting seriously expensive. Kind of second guessing myself on that decision.
 
1999 UZJ-100, 175K miles
New OEM (Thanks @beno !):

Timing Belt
Water Pump
T-Stat
Serpentine Belt
All tensioners/pulleys
Heater Ts
Valve Cover Gaskets
Steering Rack
 
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Thanks for the tip @gwatts - I may have to give MLV a go on the other vehicle!
 
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