What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (40 Viewers)

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Replaced the following:

  • Engine air filter (17801-50040).
  • Power steering reservoir inlet and outlet hoses and clamps (44412-60280 & 44348-60320)
  • Spark plugs (90080-91180).
  • Various vacuum lines and PCV hoses.
  • My failing horns with JDM premium horns (08522-60010) (Sound check!)
  • Replaced the both front window seals (68141-60042 & 68151-60032).
  • Replaced my rear hatch struts.
  • Replaced my battery with another Toyota Truestart 84mo. KEEP YOUR RECEIPT FOR THE WARRANTY.
  • Hood bump stops.
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Ben, what’s the part # for the prius wiper arm you used? I’ve tried adding one but it doesn’t cover the full spread of the window, therefore making the wiper useless
I got the kit from ebay

 
Beside stock TBs full Dobinson. IMS front, extended travel 2.-2.5“, MRR rear, UCAs.
Also swapped a LCA bushings, ball joint (555), sway bar bushings & links front and rear, outer tie rods (inner were done a few 1.000 back by the previous owner incl steering rack).
Let‘s see. We‘ll test drive tomorrow a bit, today I have only done a mile from wheel alignment and back 😂
And then surely gotta figure out the MRR and right settings loaded/ unloaded. Also want to add a kind of sleeve around the adjustment nuts to keep them from getting dirty.
 
Started out to unblock the rear washer nozzle. There was lots of gunk in the lines - used some purple power to flush the lines and eventually air compressor to blow the lines and nozzle. Ended up removing and washing the reservoir too as it has lots of residue. All good now. Tucked away, one of the third row seat belts when I was in there and added two missing bolts from the subwoofer.

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The outdoors has been calling me since last year. Took her out on her first stretching exercise this year. Just realized too that this thing is celebrating its 18 years of AHC. Props to Toyota and Japanese engineering.
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A testament that if you take care of your cruiser it will give you all the memories, a win in my book.
📍Cottonwood Pass, 40 minutes outside of Las Vegas NV.
 
Started out to unblock the rear washer nozzle. There was lots of gunk in the lines - used some purple power to flush the lines and eventually air compressor to blow the lines and nozzle. Ended up removing and washing the reservoir too as it has lots of residue. All good now. Tucked away, one of the third row seat belts when I was in there and added two missing bolts from the subwoofer.

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What's the trick to actually getting the rear nozzle off? I messed with mine a couple weeks ago and have narrowed down the blockage to the nozzle itself. If I can get it off it seems like a quick/ easy blow out with the air gun, but I played with it for a bit and couldn't find a way to get it out without maybe breaking something, so I left it.
 
Replaced the following:

  • Engine air filter (17801-50040).
  • Power steering reservoir inlet and outlet hoses and clamps (44412-60280 & 44348-60320)
  • Spark plugs (90080-91180).
  • Various vacuum lines and PCV hoses.
  • My failing horns with JDM premium horns (08522-60010) (Sound check!)
  • Replaced the both front window seals (68141-60042 & 68151-60032).
  • Replaced my rear hatch struts.
  • Replaced my battery with another Toyota Truestart 84mo. KEEP YOUR RECEIPT FOR THE WARRANTY.
  • Hood bump stops.
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The factory horn is embarrassing.
 
Finished install of RF cvaxle - big thanks to your help on this thread here on sat evening. Also did wheel bearings and new hub flange - which has solved much of my driveline 'thunk. Very proud, happy of the work i did. I was EXTREMELY careful with cv axle to not knick the boots or distort the clamps - OEM CV axle comes in at 850EUR at the cheapest - i checked prices in 3 countries in europe.

Does it look well enough seated on the diff side? strange how one works to 0.2mm tolerance fitting it on the wheel side ( PS: human hair is about 0.12mm thickness) whereas on diff sides one just eyeballs/wing it??. 🤔

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Replaced RH window actuator. The motor that controlled the vertical movement died so I replaced the whole actuator. Lessons learned- the process would've been easier if one removes the side mirror assembly from the door, and removed the 3 T25 bolts holding the cover in place to access the connectors. I didn't do this because I did it on my lunch break and did not want the hassle or removing the door panels.

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What's the trick to actually getting the rear nozzle off? I messed with mine a couple weeks ago and have narrowed down the blockage to the nozzle itself. If I can get it off it seems like a quick/ easy blow out with the air gun, but I played with it for a bit and couldn't find a way to get it out without maybe breaking something, so I left it.
Found this online; Rear washer nozzle removal.Use two tools front and back to pry it up. Disconnect the hose inside the rear gate first and push it up a bit in the rubber boot as the hose just peeps out of the top and its can otherwise fall inside the cavity leaving you to have to fish around for it.
 
New radiator in after a hairline crack on top started leaking. Thank you @Land Shark for the help. So much mud cleaned out of the AC condenser as well.
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Yeah I like the look a lot. Next upgrade is ARB rear drawers but it’s tax time so probably not until the summer (I’m self employed).
Let me know if you are really in the marked for a set. I may be shedding mine at some point
 

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