What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (35 Viewers)

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scrt80 said:
Do you mind posting a close up detail shot up of the front wheel? I’m looking at installing a part time kit and want to make sure it’ll clear the bore.
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If your wheel fits with the stock hub and drive flanges it will work with the part time kit. there is no diameter difference.
 
I may, or may not have gone a little overboard.

IMG_1087.jpeg


IMG_1085.jpeg


IMG_1101.jpeg


IMG_1102.jpeg
 
mderrick said:
If your wheel fits with the stock hub and drive flanges it will work with the part time kit. there is no diameter difference.
Click to expand...
The Method MR314 I was wondering about has a 110.50 bore. I was wonder if the flange bolts clear the 110.50 as some wheels taper to a little bit smaller bore due to the center cap (which of course wouldn’t be used in this case with the part time kit).
 
awesomeissquid said:
I agree, looks good. Doing anything else under the carpet to deal with noise/heat?

I think I need to go back and do my rear wheel wells.
Click to expand...

At some point I'm going to go back and fill in the rear quarter panel and pull the headliner to do the roof. I've sealed all of the door gaps with rubber seals. The only noise that now enters the cabin is tire noise (very faint) and anything gap above the belt line. It's a little discombobulating at first as the only sound is up high now.
 
2000UZJ said:
At some point I'm going to go back and fill in the rear quarter panel and pull the headliner to do the roof. I've sealed all of the door gaps with rubber seals. The only noise that now enters the cabin is tire noise (very faint) and anything gap above the belt line. It's a little discombobulating at first as the only sound is up high now.
Click to expand...

On the doors did you just use the LX door seals or something additional?
 
Doug H said:
From a previous post. If you've seen this, skip to the bottom.
Click to expand...

Doug H said:
The last two weeks have been catching up on maintenance. The 100 has let me know that it doesn't appreciate my neglect, so the serpentine belt signed off and I had to limp home doing my best He Man impression with no power steering. Turns out the the bearing on the belt tensioner seized and that quickly fried the belt. Given that it's been 13 years since the timing belt, etc. were done, I decided to order the parts kit from Amazon and tackle it myself. The Amazon parts kit is surprisingly complete - I ordered the one with all Toyota, Denso and Aisin parts - and even includes a new front main seal kit. The bearing on the fan bracket was also pretty wobbly, so I added a new fan bracket to the order as well as a cylinder cover gasket kit.

As luck would have it, there are a handful of bolts that fell between my little torque wrench and the big one, so feeling flush, I ordered a new Proto that covers 200-1000 in lbs. Why inch pounds? It was cheaper, available immediately and it also had a scale in NM, so would do fine on the Toyota and my Audi. Compared to my old Craftsman tools, the Proto looks like a Rolex and I appreciate the NIST traceable calibration certificate. (You never know when I might want to rebuild an airplane engine or something...)

Some of the wiring connectors were getting pretty fragile, so two got replaced with Deutsch connectors and one of the coolant temp sensors was also replaced.

Of course, when I went to reinstall the crank pulley I discovered that it needs tightening to 188(?) lbft. and my other old Craftsman torque wrench only went to 150, so the little Proto has a new big brother that ranges from 50-250 lbft. They do look nice together! Everything is back together except for the fan and shroud and some coolant, so should have it done tomorrow.
Click to expand...
Must have jinxed it by speaking too soon...

I got everything all finished up and had been driving it for a couple of weeks when the thing just quit. No hesitation, no grumbling, quit, fini! Pulled off the road and popped the hood only to find my brand new serpentine belt in pieces. The OBDII scanner reported a P0340 (Cam Position Sensor issue) and I had it towed home. Disassembly identified something I should have caught on the timing belt replacement, which was that the harmonic balancer had, as Elon Musk put it, a unscheduled, rapid dissasembly! The rubber-like material that holds the inner ring to the outer and provides some damping had failed causing the outer part of the pulley to move forward and wear on the belt causing it to fail. I'm just guessing, but the seizing of the tensioner pulley might have put some strain on the harmonic balancer pulley causing the already weakened rubber to finally give up the ghost.

I replaced the Harmonic Balancer (pulley) with a new factory item as well as a new cam position sensor. Checked continuity in the wiring harness between the new sensor and the ECU and this hasn't fixed the problem. The car cranks, but won't fire and now shows no DTC codes at all. FYI, the original sensor checked out fine per the service manual, 1.2 kOhms, but I replaced it anyway along with the harness plug. These are two-wire sensors and I can't find any reference to any voltage being present with the switch on. Right now there is none.

I'm stumped. I'm going to pull the cranshaft position sensor, which is the only other thing that I think could have been affected by the pulley and belt failure, but without a code I'm not optimistic. I've checked fuses as well as the connector at the ECU but am running up against the limits of my knowledge and don't know what else to check.

One other weird symptom to add to the mix; After towing it home, the primary battery (I have a Painless Wiring two battery system) went flat after a couple of days, so somewhere there is a drain on the electrical system that wasn't there before this incident.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 
Doug H said:
Must have jinxed it by speaking too soon...

I got everything all finished up and had been driving it for a couple of weeks when the thing just quit. No hesitation, no grumbling, quit, fini! Pulled off the road and popped the hood only to find my brand new serpentine belt in pieces. The OBDII scanner reported a P0340 (Cam Position Sensor issue) and I had it towed home. Disassembly identified something I should have caught on the timing belt replacement, which was that the harmonic balancer had, as Elon Musk put it, a unscheduled, rapid dissasembly! The rubber-like material that holds the inner ring to the outer and provides some damping had failed causing the outer part of the pulley to move forward and wear on the belt causing it to fail. I'm just guessing, but the seizing of the tensioner pulley might have put some strain on the harmonic balancer pulley causing the already weakened rubber to finally give up the ghost.

I replaced the Harmonic Balancer (pulley) with a new factory item as well as a new cam position sensor. Checked continuity in the wiring harness between the new sensor and the ECU and this hasn't fixed the problem. The car cranks, but won't fire and now shows no DTC codes at all. FYI, the original sensor checked out fine per the service manual, 1.2 kOhms, but I replaced it anyway along with the harness plug. These are two-wire sensors and I can't find any reference to any voltage being present with the switch on. Right now there is none.

I'm stumped. I'm going to pull the cranshaft position sensor, which is the only other thing that I think could have been affected by the pulley and belt failure, but without a code I'm not optimistic. I've checked fuses as well as the connector at the ECU but am running up against the limits of my knowledge and don't know what else to check.

One other weird symptom to add to the mix; After towing it home, the primary battery (I have a Painless Wiring two battery system) went flat after a couple of days, so somewhere there is a drain on the electrical system that wasn't there before this incident.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Click to expand...
Okay, so this might be part of the problem!

Now to figure out why it melted down like a Russian nuclear reactor.

IMG_1974.jpg
 
Pre-GSMTR punch list:
  • Starter replacement (50% there)
  • Front lower shock bushing replacement
  • Rear lower control arm replacement
  • And if I get there, slangin these new ASFIR belly plates on.

Basically just using the trip as a lever to handle the crap I have been meaning to get to for the last little while, and I’m not gonna throw the armor up on there over worn out parts. 🤷‍♂🥴
 
Last edited:
Joe Fast said:
Does anyone have a preferred sound-dampening brand/thickness? I will be doing this to the entire cabin this summer. Anyone with thoughts and suggestions?
Click to expand...
I've always used Dynamat Xtreme. You don't need to cover the entire surface. More like a third of it give or take if I remember correctly.
 
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