What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend?

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CrabCake said:
Finally got my drawer and platform setup completed and installed! This is version 2.0, so I really knew what I wanted, and it took some time, but all good! I also installed my ARB locker in the front, thanks to @cruiseroutfit for the fresh build! Did my less than favorite dash pull to get everything refreshed on the back side plus pulled all fresh harness wires to the ARB dual brushless compressor. Now a true triple locked beast with ARB's front and back.

Platform goals:
Get my big ass 6'2" 230 lb self onto it
Have a larger drawer for tools and use space efficiently
Built around my inside tire mount (I have the LRA tank and hate swing outs if I can avoid them)
Is modular so I can remove the passenger front side or both sides to fit my center row seats without a hassle (leave the drawer unit in)
Mounted to original mount points (seats, cargo hooks, etc., no new holes in the floor!) Solid as a rock!
Shorter platform in front of tire is for my Iceco fridge, storage hatch on the other side for more space for long term tuck aways such as fluids, spares, etc.
Get it done before I leave on April 11th for a 5000 mile round trip to Cruise Moab!

Before the trip:
Install new/replacement transfer pump to LRA tank, mine is getting old and sounds cranky!
Oil, transmission, and diff fluid changes (antifreeze, transfer case, and u-joints/drive shaft are freshly done)
Drain the rainy day fund for the $500 in extra fuel cost for this trip... :confused:
Do some extra nice stuff for my wife for her patience and being a garage widow for too long now!

I've posted a few progress pics, but all done it's coming together nicely!

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Nice setup ;)
 
I put mud flaps back on my new-to-me 80.
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Then I put a Bowfin rack on it
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CrabCake said:
Attached with an extrusion bar mid way up, you can see it here...about 5 mounting points to both the extrusion and the box. Super solid and very happy so far.

I think ADGO uses an extrusion frame in their design and was an inspiration...

airdowngearup.com

SS1 80 Series Drawer System | Air Down Gear Up

Organize your adventure gear with the SS1 80 series drawer system. Perfect fit for Land Cruiser & LX450. Order yours today from Air Down Gear Up!
airdowngearup.com airdowngearup.com

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Yeah that looks awesome. It looks like you made it with a "modular" design so the drawers could fit with with the second row seats in. Is that right? What kind of drawer slides? How long are the drawers? And slides?
 
COS80 said:
I designed a custom drawer system out of 8020. I will be building it when I can work on my feet again.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you should start a new thread :).

I have been playing around with making a roof rack box using aluminum extrusion. But I never got beyond the "thinking about it" stage. I kind of got hung up trying to decide what to "skin" the box with that would be light enough yet durable enough. And how to make it water proof.

Long story short-- still thinking

My "just started" 80/20 roof top box thread is here.
 
CrabCake said:
Attached with an extrusion bar mid way up, you can see it here...about 5 mounting points to both the extrusion and the box. Super solid and very happy so far.

I think ADGO uses an extrusion frame in their design and was an inspiration...

airdowngearup.com

SS1 80 Series Drawer System | Air Down Gear Up

Organize your adventure gear with the SS1 80 series drawer system. Perfect fit for Land Cruiser & LX450. Order yours today from Air Down Gear Up!
airdowngearup.com airdowngearup.com

View attachment 4108310

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Click to expand...
So your drawer was assembled with pocket screws and reinforced with the Aluminum corner pieces? Looks like that would be really solid!
 
Broski said:
You don’t move the mount, you plate it and redrill the hole forward. I moved mine 11/8”
Forward.
For me I had already welded caster plates to the front axle mounts.
Moving the hole cost me nothing, new control arms are $1500.00
Do the new control arms look nicer, cleaner yes !
Does caster plates and plate and redrill do the exact same thing IMO they do.
I know others will disagree 😉
Click to expand...
one issue not considered, is the contact between the radius arm and tie rod under full flex...or near full flex should i say. You can clearance the radius arm but chances are youll still have contact and a now weaker arm. Really the only reason why im considering getting new radius arms myself and moving on from my caster plates.
 
sjpitts said:
Yeah that looks awesome. It looks like you made it with a "modular" design so the drawers could fit with with the second row seats in. Is that right? What kind of drawer slides? How long are the drawers? And slides?
Click to expand...
Correct...I wanted to be able to put one or both middle seats back in if needed. That said, I've owned for 4 years now and haven't needed those back in yet!

Slides are 36" from Amazon, very strong and happy with them so far! Drawer is approx 25" wide, 32" long, and 8" deep.

Montana Cruiser said:
So your drawer was assembled with pocket screws and reinforced with the Aluminum corner pieces? Looks like that would be really solid!
Click to expand...
Correct...I started with pocket screws to secure the shape, but knew that it would need to hold some real weight, so I added the corner braces too...extras from my extrusion parts. I did use the 1/2 1/2 1/2 woodworking method to do the corners and a dado groove for the bottom panel so it's not just screwed/nailed/glued.
 
CrabCake said:
Finally got my drawer and platform setup completed and installed! This is version 2.0, so I really knew what I wanted, and it took some time, but all good! I also installed my ARB locker in the front, thanks to @cruiseroutfit for the fresh build! Did my less than favorite dash pull to get everything refreshed on the back side plus pulled all fresh harness wires to the ARB dual brushless compressor. Now a true triple locked beast with ARB's front and back.

Platform goals:
Get my big ass 6'2" 230 lb self onto it
Have a larger drawer for tools and use space efficiently
Built around my inside tire mount (I have the LRA tank and hate swing outs if I can avoid them)
Is modular so I can remove the passenger front side or both sides to fit my center row seats without a hassle (leave the drawer unit in)
Mounted to original mount points (seats, cargo hooks, etc., no new holes in the floor!) Solid as a rock!
Shorter platform in front of tire is for my Iceco fridge, storage hatch on the other side for more space for long term tuck aways such as fluids, spares, etc.
Get it done before I leave on April 11th for a 5000 mile round trip to Cruise Moab!

Before the trip:
Install new/replacement transfer pump to LRA tank, mine is getting old and sounds cranky!
Oil, transmission, and diff fluid changes (antifreeze, transfer case, and u-joints/drive shaft are freshly done)
Drain the rainy day fund for the $500 in extra fuel cost for this trip... :confused:
Do some extra nice stuff for my wife for her patience and being a garage widow for too long now!

I've posted a few progress pics, but all done it's coming together nicely!

View attachment 4108269

View attachment 4108270

View attachment 4108271

View attachment 4108272

View attachment 4108273

View attachment 4108274
Click to expand...
What is this part of your air system and what do you use it for?

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Gascan said:
Thanks! It was for the most part as these things sometimes go on public land. Shared some beer with strangers who were slower than us to this perfect little spot; then had an altercation with a wannabe Ricky the Ranger because he didn’t like us marking that the spot was taken about a hundred feet up the trail to spare some poor soul an unnecessary dose of pinstripes. I unsuccessfully tried to de-escalate with an offer of cold beer and breaking bread at camp but eventually we parted ways with a simple fist-bump. And the ticks… they were out for blood this weekend.
Click to expand...
Haha! No good deed as they say but glad it all worked out and again, the pictures make it look like a beautiful spot with lots of privacy.
 
Got all of the bulbs in the dash replaced today while everything is apart for the stereo install. When I pulled the small cluster that contains the "D", it came out smoothly, but the bulbs gave me fits when I went to tighten them. My little screwdriver slipped and made a nice little mark across 3 of the copper connections. Put it under a magnifying glass... the copper wasn't cut... but the plastic sheathing was scored (but not cut through), thank goodness. What a fawk up...

Any of you old hand electrical specialists have a recommendation for the best way to check continuity? Just to be sure.
 
Old Nick said:
Any of you old hand electrical specialists have a recommendation for the best way to check continuity? Just to be sure.
Click to expand...

Use the continuity position (Ohm) on your multimeter. It should make a beep and show 0 ohms.
 
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