TomWoods DC
What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend?
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Without measuring I would say a half inch shorter.
I got some "new" wheels for mine a few weeks ago. 315s I think instead of 35 12.50s like the ones on the red wheels I gave away to my buddy.
I have no vibration yet so no DC for me even though I saved it in Landtank's cart.
You know, I put that on when I had a 4 inch lift
Now that I’m running a 2.5 inch lift I probably don’t need it either
Come to think of it, it did not have vibs it was a growl on decelerationYou know, I put that on when I had a 4 inch lift
Now that I’m running a 2.5 inch lift I probably don’t need it either
I've put a few Dc shafts on 2.5 lifts. It's right there in that grey area of needing it or not .Come to think of it, it did not have vibs it was a growl on deceleration
Made progress. Almost done.
Yes, I would look at clearance at full compression. Put a zip tie on it & slam some deep street dips at speed or jump it....hahaI do my fair share of crawling but not as hard-core as some of you guys. The spacer brought the DS position back to as before. And with the 3 regular, i haven't experience the bottoming out just yet.
I have 28.7" long shocks, stock drive shaft & 3L arms without issue of disengagement.
My DC actually made things worse, went back to stock and it cleared up. I have a 3" lift with 3L arms. Dropped from a 3.5" Dobinsons lift and 4 arms cured the vibration issue.
COS80
SILVER Star
How'd you get that long of a shock to work?
COS80
SILVER Star
Can anybody tell me what order the bottom seat belt bolt parts go back together? They kind of just fell out before I knew they were there, and now it's been too long since I disassembled it.
COS80
SILVER Star
Many thanks.
COS80
SILVER Star
Wait, behind which bracket - 1 or 2?
COS80
SILVER Star
Thanks again.
Went to do the two year MOT test, had a bit of work before it could pass.
- One failed/rusted cab mount.
- Rusted rear brake dust shield.
- Replaced rear right brake line.
- Replaced fron left brake line.
- Replaced rusted rear lower coil spring seat/bracket.
- Replaced rusted front lower coil spring seat/bracket.
- Fixed headlight adjuster gears (3d printed)
- Bypassed EGR (Was smoking ALOT)
Rust rust rust....
Passed the test and everything is good
- One failed/rusted cab mount.
- Rusted rear brake dust shield.
- Replaced rear right brake line.
- Replaced fron left brake line.
- Replaced rusted rear lower coil spring seat/bracket.
- Replaced rusted front lower coil spring seat/bracket.
- Fixed headlight adjuster gears (3d printed)
- Bypassed EGR (Was smoking ALOT)
Rust rust rust....
Passed the test and everything is good
Ruby the shop rig is getting all the love . Now that under the hood and outside are done .Time for the inside . Got the new carpet in and all the stereo wires ran . Front kicker speakers are in. Amp for the 6x9s is installed . Nerve racking cutting holes in perfect door cards.
A question I was wondering. From the factory, is the Fuel Door Release on the left or right of the Hood Release.
I have pictures of my truck, before mechanically refreshing it, with the Fuel Door Release on the left. But, I have seen others that it is on the right of the Hood Release.
The FSM wasn't clear but I think there is a figure where the fuel release is on the right, and another figure where it is on the left.