Yep, they just arent designed that well. I'm thinking discs and a proper ebrake is the solution (budget permitting) of course....
What did you do to your pig today?
- Thread starter ABQIRONPIG
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Yes.
. I'll have to see if that adjustment will make a material difference....That said, I am giving the brake handle pull the beans and still not effective.
I tightened up the cable at the firewall, and THEN went underneath and tightened the adjuster on the shoes. That made a difference. I can pull the handle and get 6 clicks with one hand, 8 to 10 clicks if I use 2 hands
Those two big nuts that sandwich the bracket on the firewall, loosen one and tighten the other to either lengthen or shorten the cable sheath...
Did that work properly?My 47 Ford 2- 1/2 ton had a Disc parking brake on drive shaft
There is a kit for a transfer case mounted disc...reviews are mixed
All our Isuzu cube vans have the same, and it’s not much bigger than on the pig from memory.My 47 Ford 2- 1/2 ton had a Disc parking brake on drive shaft
Finished up the steering and just about done with the disc brake conversion on the 1972 55.
not worth the spend, IMO.
The eyebolt that comes thru the firewall is a turnbuckle, which is an additional point of adjustment. it's adjustment is done behind the dash...
I am going to be doing this myself. Currently using an fj80 ebrake handle I cut in on the outboard side of the drivers seat, but it gets in the way pretty bad, so my plan is to reinstall the under dash linkage for the t-handle, then simply splice a cable from the firewall pull to the actual ebrake cable somewhere under the rig. When I installed my narrowed rear housing, I had to use cable clamps to take up the slack on the OEM cable. Given they haven't slacked, or budged in over a decade, I'd have to assume they would work fine as a cable splice...
Wondering if just replacing the pads would help the situation. The adjustment is correct (6-8 clicks)on the brake lever but it just dosen't hold for Sh&^...
I might try a couple different things before replacing the shoes ( if there's no sign of oil contamination); different combos of adjusting maybe. Loosen up the shoe adjuster all the way and crank down on the cable, then use the shoe adjuster. Secretly, I'm going to drive around with the shoes slightly engaged and then try to slow the Pig to a stop using just the emergency brake...sorta see if I can get the shoes to mate better with the drum. I have been able to get a decent parking brake in the past, once or twice, I just forget how.
Home with wife after her surgery yesterday. She was up to helping bleed brakes on the 69.
drivers rear pretty dirty compared to others making me suspect there was leak there but no fluid anywhere.
Bled em, still have to pump brake to get pressure but only 2-3 times compared to 5-6 before.
Not ideal but just need enough to be able to stop when pulling onto trailer.
May do it again if my helper up to it.
drivers rear pretty dirty compared to others making me suspect there was leak there but no fluid anywhere.
Bled em, still have to pump brake to get pressure but only 2-3 times compared to 5-6 before.
Not ideal but just need enough to be able to stop when pulling onto trailer.
May do it again if my helper up to it.
Yes
@greenbeast
Sometimes it helps to mechanically adjust the drums to full lock on all the shoes to bleed them, them back them off to spec afterwards. This eliminates any slack in the adjustment from seeming like a leak or air pocket. I've also encountered - when I changed my rear cyhlinders - that air can get stuck in the damndest places, such that even bench bleeding won't purge it. After about 2 gallons of fluid, several weekends of anger flavored mind numbingly frustrating anxiety, and about after about 3 more hours of hands on coaching from my mechanical spirit animal, Mr. Philco Nimberg, we ended up popping the cups off one by one and letting the pistons come out far enough to burp the cylinders. Sure enough, one of them was hiding enough air to keep a shipwrecked mosquito alive for a month.
Sometimes it helps to mechanically adjust the drums to full lock on all the shoes to bleed them, them back them off to spec afterwards. This eliminates any slack in the adjustment from seeming like a leak or air pocket. I've also encountered - when I changed my rear cyhlinders - that air can get stuck in the damndest places, such that even bench bleeding won't purge it. After about 2 gallons of fluid, several weekends of anger flavored mind numbingly frustrating anxiety, and about after about 3 more hours of hands on coaching from my mechanical spirit animal, Mr. Philco Nimberg, we ended up popping the cups off one by one and letting the pistons come out far enough to burp the cylinders. Sure enough, one of them was hiding enough air to keep a shipwrecked mosquito alive for a month.
Front axle done, on to E brake rebuild, gaskets and seals. A little everyday
