Nothing much, but I drove it. Needed gas and beer, the cheaper gas station has expensive beer and the expensive gas station has cheaper beer. Being a conscientious consumer, I went to both. They're charging 80 cents more for the Techron...
What did you do to your pig today?
- Thread starter ABQIRONPIG
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Had a min after other honey-do activities and put the hubs on.
Decided that since the Pig did so well around town yesterday, I'd put some real miles on it today. Smelt the odor of gasoline as I rounded the rear, which is sometimes sorta normal with a full tank, but then noticed a wet spot behind the driver side rear wheel, which is not. Looked up underneath where the 4 or 5 hoses from the tank go up to the vapor separator, one was wet, and dripping. So I clamped it off, found a length of spare fuel line and slipped the old one out and the new one in. Then it was dry so I drove to the store.
It's about 10 miles one-way, so a gallon of gas, enjoyed the scenic and historic Pony Express Trail road with it's 45MPH speed limit and light traffic. Was able to open the secondary here and there, in top gear!
fuel lines still dry after shopping so drove home.
It's about 10 miles one-way, so a gallon of gas, enjoyed the scenic and historic Pony Express Trail road with it's 45MPH speed limit and light traffic. Was able to open the secondary here and there, in top gear!
fuel lines still dry after shopping so drove home.
After it cooled down a bit I swapped in this fitting. Makes it so you can run your stock oil pressure sender and run a line to the in-dash mechanical gauge. I made one years ago at Ace hardware but this looks less redneckish
Pulled sparkplugs, looked at 'em and took pics. Cleaned 'em up with a wire wheel in the Dremel and set the gap. Liked it so much that I did the same to all my spare sparkplugs. I mean, who carries dirty sparkplugs? They cleaned up real nice, so a dab of the anti-seize and back in. Dizzy cap & rotor contacts got the wire wheel too. Sparkplug wire ends even got a touch of the dielectric grease, new for me.
One rusty spot is fixed… only 120 more to go. 
Yup, been needing a new exhaust for a while now due to a rust hole just behind the muffler, which JB weld did not fix but did stink to high heaven for a few days as it burned off. Seems I have to do this every 20 years or so. There's only 2 good muffler shops in Hangtown and this one is closer. They do a lot of 4x4s but I had bigger tires so I went first.
Got the Borla muffler this time, last time was a Flowmmaster. Decided to exit it at the corner rather than straight back so maybe it wouldn't hit rocks like the old one. Guy did a good job. It's quieter now, good except I hear a lot of other noises that I couldn't before. Nice part is I can drive with the rear window down and not smell exhaust.
invented some front upper shock towers for the ol bastard...
Found a nice, shady spot and adjusted my valves. Not all of them, only 3 felt a little loose. Timed it, lean-dropped it, got a good idle out of it. Manifold vacuum still a bit low at 15, Was 16.5 a month ago (about 3200' elev.). Bothersome. Went for a drive in the neighborhood. Shifted into low/low, just to check, couldn't get the NP203 back into high. Got a great gnashing of teeth when I thought I was in gear...uh oh. Got back home in low, the stick for the NP203 was hitting the shift gate, first thought was to make the shift gate bigger but I got underneath to visualize the problem. Found a loose bolt in the linkage and snugged it up. All better. Resumed around the neighborhood trying to make it ping, unable to induce a ping. Used to be I could hear a ping easily, I haven't been able to make it ping since the valve job, probably going deaf. I'm at 25* BTDC and it runs pretty well. Really a smooth, strong pull up to 3k RPM. Sure can hear the exhaust leak tick-tick-ticking, probably need a new manifold gasket. Don't want to so close to Rubithon, should only take a day though.
fj60 uses the lower ublot plate as a shock mount, then has short upper towers aft of the axle, which I view as good, as the PS box takes that space above the axle. This upper tower I drew on Qcad should add 1" of height to the stock fj60 tower - bottom of stud mounting surface is roughly 2.75" above the frame top plate where the frame is relatively level. These will let me use a shelf kept bilstien with either 10 or 11 inches of travel. Not very helpful to anyone using a spring over., tho.
This file will be laser cut and broke out. I use sendcut$end - no plug or affiliation; just what I do - they take your 2D .dxf or whatever - I think they can even use a .pdf, too - run whatever processes, and send it to you blister wrapped, and ready to use. these look like they'll run about $35 a piece. They get ridiculously cheaper as you buy more.
Anyone who wants the file just HMU.
Yeah, I know. At idle.
Parking brake. What a PIA. I've got it adjusted really really tight and it still barely works. Think I put it together right, it'll stall the engine in 2nd (or 3rd, depending how you count) but it doesn't hold worth a darn on a hill. I'm thinking of trying some of those red-neck brake-seating maneuvers...
I had no luck with my Tcase brake. fixed mine with an fzj80 rear end...