What did you do on your 70 series today? (37 Viewers)

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Worked on brake shoe system. I found that I should have bought shoe hardware from Toyota: shoe spring retainer gizmos I got in a Beck Arnley kit were too short. Meant for an FJ60 I think.
With all out except wheel cylinder, I masked and blasted the hubs. Will paint when weather improves.
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Drove my oldest daughter for "home prom" up in the BJ74. My middle daughter rode her horse :rofl:

Senior Prom at Home with your family isn't as cool as it sounds :rofl: , but at least they got to dress up, eat and have fun.

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I also upgraded my headlights with: Toyota 81110-60P70, details in my build thread.
May seem insignificant to some but your efforts are the kind of thing a daughter remembers fondly for the rest of her life. It's the little things that matter.
 
Rewired lighting and trailer pigtail on my new back bumper. Tested some LED (stop, tail,turn) trailer lights for several hours on 24V and they worked fine, but in the vehicle they burned up quickly. I bought some incandescent trailer lights of the same size and shape to insert in the bumper. I did surgery on the sealed tail lights and added another bulb for the turn signal. I added a 6 OHM resistor in the common ground for each light and for the trailer pigtail to drop the voltage to acceptable level for the 12V bulbs. I would have replaced the bulbs in the lights with 24V, but they are sealed and can't be easily opened. I have a 4-3 wire converter wired into the trailer pigtail, but am still getting some back feed bleedover between turn and brake not sure why, but it's only a weak glow so I'll live with it.
 
Spent quite a bit of time "planning in my head" the fabrication of my turbo exhaust manifold for the 3b. When you calculate the limits and error induced by the tools you have available your original method/ideas change a bit. IE: My small drill press can't drill accurately on the beveled edge of a 1/4" box tube. A Uni-bit stepped bit won't flex and bend like a normal drill bit. What material to use and how so it doesn't warp and deform too much while cutting and welding...........
 
I often have the same problem, dream it up in my head, go to build and find the limitations in the resources available to me, and have to adjust accordingly. I find myself spending as much or more money on the tools/materials I need to build something compared to buying that certain something already available. But I never see that as negative, I gain the tools for the next project and experience/knowledge gained from building it myself, which is priceless, at least thats how I justify it to the wife.
 
Off with the old (and incorrect) brushbar.
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On with the new (and correct) brushbar.
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Looks nice.

What was the correct application for the old bumper?
 
Looks nice.

What was the correct application for the old bumper?
I think it was suitable for any narrow nose 70 Series. The new one is far more substantial and the wings are larger and canted out more.
**** In response to a number of emails, the brushbar that was removed has already been sold.
 
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I don't normally do Drugs but I must have been on something Sunday when I spray-gunned my rear hubs with Rustoleum.
After 72 hours it was dry but not hard. Scraped it some when I put wheels back on. Maybe in 72 days it will be cured.
Also installed incorrect but usefully controllable dash vent. Original vent could not be closed. I think Onur gave me this idea...Thanks.
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Finished my 3b turbo manifold today. It is a "Log style" manifold welded up from rectangular tubing and plate. Welding, grinding, cutting, re-doing things over bolt fitment etc. Once it's up and running I have alot of pictures and started a thread for that........Perhaps I can get it all bolted together and running tomorrow. I have pretty much everything I need except for the plumbing from turbo to intake.............I knew the NA bj73 would be slow, but it is more anemic than I expected.. I've owned and driven slow diesel vehicles before: 81 isuzu diesel pickup, mercedes 240D, VW rabbit diesel, NA diesel Hilux, and NA diesel Ford Ranger. The BJ73 is as good as any of these below 30MPH. Above that speed the air resistance kicks in and just zaps the power(even the rabbit was less effected by hills at highway speed).........................I once put a 3.9 cummins 4BTA 120HP in a 71 chevy 1/2 ton 4wd. Heavier than the BJ73 with as much or more wind resistance. I'm hoping after the turbo install the BJ73 will match the performance of the 71 chevy with 4BT.
 
I'm not allowed to touch anything but I can at least watch other people work. :)
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Brushbar went to a good home. (Photo courtesy of Odd Iron Off Road) A "Ute to Ute" transfer.
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Took some time from the other 70 stuff to blast these and paint them with Steel-It paint. They'll go on the 73 and the 4Runner wheels that are on it can go on.......well.....a 4Runner.

Talk about heavy.....wow.

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Started installing my turbo today. Removed old manifold and downpipe and installed new manifold and such. Clearance issues with fuel filter so I will relocate it. Clearance issues with power steering lines, so I will lengthen and reroute. Turbo sit's lower than originally anticipated. Wanted to run oil drain to valve cover, but it is a couple inches below the valve cover. From everything I read If I try to run the oil return line up or even horizontal then the pressure to push out the oil will cause it to weep out of the bearing into the turbo. It's only a few inches of run to the valve cover, but I may be dropping the oil pan and making a drain line tomorrow.
 
G'Day Fella's,

Lookin good there c2dfj45 but if you think these wheels are heavy, don't try to pick up the factory, BJ73 steel split rim.
These are So Heavy, I can no longer pick up a flat tyre, and put it on the rear door carrier.
Because of this, I had to change to alloy/Mag wheels.

Lest We Forget! and Avagreatweekendeh!
Homer
 
Digging through some old stuff and found this. I'm not even sure why I have it.
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