What are you working on? (25 Viewers)
- Thread starter crawlin40
- Start date
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Thanks for the compliments guys. I really can't say enough about Jason @ Trail Tailor. Super good dude to work with and he makes a terrific product. Hope to see you guys at RC next month to try them out!
Is he local to Pa? I'd like to get a rear bumper.
J,
He's out in Wyoming. His handle here on Mud is @reevesci
You can check out his work over here. https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/bumpers-roof-racks-and-gutter-mounts-for-sale.812458/
It's worth reading through the thread from the beginning to see what he can do and his previous builds. I wholeheartedly recommend the guy. I've got no affiliation, just know that I am hard pressed to remember someone who cares more about the product he fabricates, and making sure his customers are happy with it. Not too bad on price for custom fabricated "one off" armor either.
Looks like your rig is an FJC. I don't know if he's ever done anything for them, but it's worth asking him. Good Luck, and keep me posted.
He's out in Wyoming. His handle here on Mud is @reevesci
You can check out his work over here. https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/bumpers-roof-racks-and-gutter-mounts-for-sale.812458/
It's worth reading through the thread from the beginning to see what he can do and his previous builds. I wholeheartedly recommend the guy. I've got no affiliation, just know that I am hard pressed to remember someone who cares more about the product he fabricates, and making sure his customers are happy with it. Not too bad on price for custom fabricated "one off" armor either.
Looks like your rig is an FJC. I don't know if he's ever done anything for them, but it's worth asking him. Good Luck, and keep me posted.
Will do. Thanks for the good info. I've been looking into doing a rear swing out. I put the heavier springs in the rear to accommodate it. I'll look him up.
Jody
Jody
This is what I was looking at, or the idea
http://trdparts4u.toyotaofdallas.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=-9833
http://trdparts4u.toyotaofdallas.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=-9833
Couldn't bring myself to spend the $200+ on a pair of OEM gas support shocks for the rear (upper) lift gate for my 60, so I took a chance on an after market pair I found on Amazon for $50. They work perfect and they were easy to install. Thought I'd share in case you're still using a broom stick! http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJZ26UO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
caz
Keystone Cruisers
I need to find some of those for the 80. Banged my head on the hatch twice in the past few weeks because it is not staying up any more!
brian
SILVER Star
Cruiser yard has them 35 bucks
brian
SILVER Star
a load of fresh parts showed up from down south, allowing me to do some door assembly.
Found out a couple of weeks ago my old, GM externally regulated alternator had screwed the pooch. Spent the last few weeks installing a GM 12SI internally regulated alternator in its place. I bypassed running it through the main harness to avoid cooking it with the higher amperage output (94 amps). Took care of some other wiring issues along the way. The truck had a SINGLE battery ground to the tub, and no fusible links. It was all a good learning experience, given that I had never wired, soldered, or even so much as looked at a wiring diagram before.
Before:
After:
Big red cable: to starter
Grey-to-red: Voltage sensing (16AWG to 20AWG fusible link)
Yellow: Main harness/fusible link (from Coolerman)
Blue/Red: Alternator +BAT (8AWG w/ 12AWG fusible link)
Also added a ground to the frame, a ground off of the alternator, a ground off the starter, and a ground from the frame to the engine block. All were 2AWG aside from the starter ground, which is 12AWG - simply couldn't fit a 2AWG lug on the starter housing bolt.
Had to get a little creative with the alternator mount. The old mount is rusted in place, and the new water pump mount didn't line up quite right. A spacer and a longer belt solved the issue, temporarily. When the engine comes out, this will get a more permanent solution.
Getting good, regulated voltage to the batter now
Now it's on to fixing the damn turn signal fender grounds, which have been bad from day 1, and then installing the IPF harness/headlights.
Also going to install some horns...because the random Ford horn mounted crooked off the fender by the battery has got to go...
Before:
After:
Big red cable: to starter
Grey-to-red: Voltage sensing (16AWG to 20AWG fusible link)
Yellow: Main harness/fusible link (from Coolerman)
Blue/Red: Alternator +BAT (8AWG w/ 12AWG fusible link)
Also added a ground to the frame, a ground off of the alternator, a ground off the starter, and a ground from the frame to the engine block. All were 2AWG aside from the starter ground, which is 12AWG - simply couldn't fit a 2AWG lug on the starter housing bolt.
Had to get a little creative with the alternator mount. The old mount is rusted in place, and the new water pump mount didn't line up quite right. A spacer and a longer belt solved the issue, temporarily. When the engine comes out, this will get a more permanent solution.
Getting good, regulated voltage to the batter now
Now it's on to fixing the damn turn signal fender grounds, which have been bad from day 1, and then installing the IPF harness/headlights.
Also going to install some horns...because the random Ford horn mounted crooked off the fender by the battery has got to go...
Rick- looks good, money and time well spent! Gary
Thanks, Gary!
I may eventually go to an off-battery bus block of some sort to clean it up further but for now, this will get the job done. Feels good to know the battery is charging and I wont lose my truck to a wire fire!
I may eventually go to an off-battery bus block of some sort to clean it up further but for now, this will get the job done. Feels good to know the battery is charging and I wont lose my truck to a wire fire!
Making progress on my nephew's 40. A friend of mine is going the body work- all the loose parts (doors, windshield frame, hood, bezel, etc)
are prepped and primed and he's currently working on the tub. The 77 tub was really rusted and filled with bondo- I found this tub in Alabama and Zach and his dad drove down to pick it up. Getting the seat brackets made up and installed- Zach found these seats somewhere on the internet and they are indeed pretty ncice. Still need to make up the supports for the Tuffy console but that's only two pieces of rectangular tubing to cut and weld in. Last picture is of the chassis on their trailer when i sent it out of my place until the body is ready to install. Gonna be red- and gonna be a nice 40! Gary
Last photo.
Looking good Gary! I wish I was that far along. Just got through home inspection yesterday - if all continues to go well, I will actually have a garage soon, so I can really start digging into it. Then it will just be a matter of finding the other two key elements - time and money!
Just go some new shoes mounted.
285-70-70 Cooper S/T MAXX
So far so good. Much quieter than I had imagined them to be.
I'll have my 265-70-17 BFG T/A KOs available if anyone is interested. They are at least 90% tread. I'll be cleaning them up when things thaw out some.
285-70-70 Cooper S/T MAXX
So far so good. Much quieter than I had imagined them to be.
I'll have my 265-70-17 BFG T/A KOs available if anyone is interested. They are at least 90% tread. I'll be cleaning them up when things thaw out some.
New toy
Wow! Details??????
