Great work!
Build Welcome home Matilda - faded like your favorite pair of jeans
- Thread starter CruiserTrash
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- Thread starter
- #602
Quick fix. The rear seat back is hinged obviously so you can fold it down. When I had it apart doing the headrests I noticed there were bushings on the pivot points but they were trashed.
I think this is causing a squeak. The bushings need to be 16mm ID and roughly 18mm OD. The only place I could find them was on Amazon and they fit fine after cutting off a flange. $7 for 6 of the bushings.
Not the greatest fit (not long enough) and the plastic seems pretty dubious. I’ll keep looking for a better one made out of Delrin or UHMW. Maybe I just need to buy a solid rod and make my own.
Haven’t gone for a test drive yet, but they seem to fit pretty tight and the seat folding is smooth.
Interestingly the little cover that goes over the hinge point was a darker blue than the rest of the truck. I wonder what Toyota was thinking - maybe they only painted those little things a few colors, and not in every color option for the body.
I think this is causing a squeak. The bushings need to be 16mm ID and roughly 18mm OD. The only place I could find them was on Amazon and they fit fine after cutting off a flange. $7 for 6 of the bushings.
Not the greatest fit (not long enough) and the plastic seems pretty dubious. I’ll keep looking for a better one made out of Delrin or UHMW. Maybe I just need to buy a solid rod and make my own.
Haven’t gone for a test drive yet, but they seem to fit pretty tight and the seat folding is smooth.
Interestingly the little cover that goes over the hinge point was a darker blue than the rest of the truck. I wonder what Toyota was thinking - maybe they only painted those little things a few colors, and not in every color option for the body.
Would you mind sharing the Amazon link for the bushings? I need these. Thank you
- Thread starter
- #604
We use this brand at work for "plastic" bearing bushings.
They have various different specs and sizes.
Don't know if it is available in your country but here is a link for a 16*18 in basi material spec:
They have various different specs and sizes.
Don't know if it is available in your country but here is a link for a 16*18 in basi material spec:
iglidur® A180, glijlager, mm
Bestel onderhoudsvrije en smeermiddelvrije kunststof glijlagerbussen. ✅ Talrijke soorten en maten ✅ Op maat gemaakt ✅ Bespaar kosten
www.igus.nl
- Thread starter
- #606
As with all things, including us humans as we get older, things fall apart with age. The 60 keeps complaining and throwing issues at me.
1. Brakes are squealing, front and back. I never got past the “over-adjusting” issue with the rear and I’ve stopped caring. The truck stops fine-ish. I have all new OEM parts ready to go, including new drums and new pads (with the proper-shaped stud), and a new parking brake cable because why not.
2. Cold starts still have a big misfire. Years of never figuring it out. Seems to have actually gotten slightly better. Definitely temperature related - below 45 degrees it does it.
3. Small squeak+thump from somewhere in the back. Sounds like a door didn’t get closed all the way … but all the doors are closed. Maybe that bushing I replaced above didn’t last.
4. Collateral damage from wheeling. I may or may not have gotten some tires airborne (I did) and may or may not have (I definitely did) create some issues for myself. As the guy at the driveshaft shop said “that just means you were having fun!” And I did have fun. Good day with good friends, and my daughter even came with me.
: @yarncruiser
Driving home that day the front end felt bouncy. The only part of the suspension I hadn’t ever replaced were the front shocks and I figured I blew them both - and I for sure did. In the weeks since that wheeling trip there was a massive clunk going over bumps in the road, kind of like I was hitting the bump stops. But only when one axle went squarely over a bump, never one tire at a time. I inspected underneath and everything seemed fine. My guess was driveshaft bottoming out and that the problem had been masked by the shocks being good. I was sort of right.
Took the truck to the local driveshaft builder who made the front DS for me and he found the yokes at the front diff grinding on themselves and the whole shaft twisted internally on the splines. The two halves were locked up, zero slippin’ going on in the slip joint. Couldn’t get it to budge. The big clunk was the driveshaft smashing into the t-case (I kinda figured that was it). Luckily I didn’t crack the case.
The guy had already clearanced the double cardan at the top last year, but hadn’t touched the lower joint:
Twisty…
While I’m waiting on the driveshaft shop I slapped some Bilstein 33-230351 shocks on the front. Did a lot of math to arrive at that size: 16.1” compressed, 26.4” extended. The truck seems to sit at about 21” from shock tower to lower post when it’s at rest. I’ll hit the stock bump stop before fully compressing the shock, and within that parameter I chose the shock with the most extension I could. Valving is “medium” per Bilstein and they feel great.
When I took the old shocks off I found that their compression would fully max out 2” before I would ever hit the bump stop. No wonder they puked up some oil. Thanks PO! All set now though. My theory on the driveshaft is that I was on the throttle with the front end in the air, and when I landed the sudden grip hooked up the tires and the high level of momentary forces twisted the splines. But who knows.
At least I was having fun…
1. Brakes are squealing, front and back. I never got past the “over-adjusting” issue with the rear and I’ve stopped caring. The truck stops fine-ish. I have all new OEM parts ready to go, including new drums and new pads (with the proper-shaped stud), and a new parking brake cable because why not.
2. Cold starts still have a big misfire. Years of never figuring it out. Seems to have actually gotten slightly better. Definitely temperature related - below 45 degrees it does it.
3. Small squeak+thump from somewhere in the back. Sounds like a door didn’t get closed all the way … but all the doors are closed. Maybe that bushing I replaced above didn’t last.
4. Collateral damage from wheeling. I may or may not have gotten some tires airborne (I did) and may or may not have (I definitely did) create some issues for myself. As the guy at the driveshaft shop said “that just means you were having fun!” And I did have fun. Good day with good friends, and my daughter even came with me.
: @yarncruiser Driving home that day the front end felt bouncy. The only part of the suspension I hadn’t ever replaced were the front shocks and I figured I blew them both - and I for sure did. In the weeks since that wheeling trip there was a massive clunk going over bumps in the road, kind of like I was hitting the bump stops. But only when one axle went squarely over a bump, never one tire at a time. I inspected underneath and everything seemed fine. My guess was driveshaft bottoming out and that the problem had been masked by the shocks being good. I was sort of right.
Took the truck to the local driveshaft builder who made the front DS for me and he found the yokes at the front diff grinding on themselves and the whole shaft twisted internally on the splines. The two halves were locked up, zero slippin’ going on in the slip joint. Couldn’t get it to budge. The big clunk was the driveshaft smashing into the t-case (I kinda figured that was it). Luckily I didn’t crack the case.
The guy had already clearanced the double cardan at the top last year, but hadn’t touched the lower joint:
Twisty…
While I’m waiting on the driveshaft shop I slapped some Bilstein 33-230351 shocks on the front. Did a lot of math to arrive at that size: 16.1” compressed, 26.4” extended. The truck seems to sit at about 21” from shock tower to lower post when it’s at rest. I’ll hit the stock bump stop before fully compressing the shock, and within that parameter I chose the shock with the most extension I could. Valving is “medium” per Bilstein and they feel great.
When I took the old shocks off I found that their compression would fully max out 2” before I would ever hit the bump stop. No wonder they puked up some oil. Thanks PO! All set now though. My theory on the driveshaft is that I was on the throttle with the front end in the air, and when I landed the sudden grip hooked up the tires and the high level of momentary forces twisted the splines. But who knows.
At least I was having fun…
Awesome to see that truck doing what it’s made to do! Better than watching it rot in my neighbor’s garage for several years. It’s got a much happier life now!
Mine also has that cold start misfire, similar temperature cutoff as yours. I’m wondering if it’s one of the two cylinders in the middle, with the most direct intake manifold runners? The accelerator pump squirts a lot of gasoline, maybe one or both holes gets wet at first when it’s really cold?
Mine also has that cold start misfire, similar temperature cutoff as yours. I’m wondering if it’s one of the two cylinders in the middle, with the most direct intake manifold runners? The accelerator pump squirts a lot of gasoline, maybe one or both holes gets wet at first when it’s really cold?
Good that you accounted for the down travel in your calculations for the shock length. This is equally important for proper suspension articulation which significantly adds to overall comfort and performance. On the cold startup issue, my 60 used to do this with the carburetor prior to the Sniper install and my 75 does this with a carburetor. I think @RDub theory is a good one regarding the possibility of over richening the mixture.
Cheers, James
Cheers, James
- Thread starter
- #609
For those who don’t know I acquired Matilda via @RDub. His neighbor had it sitting in the garage unused for years. Ross encouraged me to talk with the owner and we were able to strike a deal. I borrowed a truck & trailer from Travis (who’s Mud name I forget, another solid human) and brought it back to my shop to get it running. It takes a village.
Both Ross and @DrRock might be on to something. Some of these carbs empty the float bowl into the intake when they sit overnight (another problem that comes up occasionally on Mud and has never been solved). That would explain running super rich, which my A:F indicates on these cold starts.
Both Ross and @DrRock might be on to something. Some of these carbs empty the float bowl into the intake when they sit overnight (another problem that comes up occasionally on Mud and has never been solved). That would explain running super rich, which my A:F indicates on these cold starts.
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- Thread starter
- #610
Question: good source for greasable shackle bolts? Bonus points if I can custom spec them.
@POTATO LAUNCHER has convinced me to move my rear shackle hangers forward a little bit - softer road ride, better flex, it puts the shackle angle where it needs to be instead of dead vertical. In conjunction with that, I have a set of shackle plates in the right length from @Fyffer sitting on my "to do" shelf. My current rear shackles were always just a stopgap measure anyway, they were incorrect ones that I made to fit (and they don't even do that very well). The problem is finding the proper greasable bolts. The leaf springs are 70mm wide, the flanges on the bushings are 5mm (x2), and the shackle plates are 9mm wide (x2). The total width is 98mm from out edge to outer edge of the shackle plates. The holes are 5/8" (16mm), but I'm not afraid to drill them wider.
How bad is one of the shackle plates resting on the threaded portion of a bolt? I think I want to avoid that. I would need a bolt with a shank length of about 95mm or maybe 100mm if I include washers under the bolt head and nut. Unfortunately everything out there on the web has shank lengths that top out around 80-90mm. It wouldn't be hard to find a regular bolt with the right dimensions from a metric specialty supplier - there's a great one near my house - but I'd really prefer a greasable bolt. I don't have a lathe to make my own unfortunately.
Roger Brown (I think that's @4Cruisers here on Mud) of Toyota Trails tech article fame has a YouTube video going through the process of making them and mentions they're for a custom order through his website ... but he's no longer in business. Sad for me, but good on him for retiring!
So ... what to do? Buy one of the off-the-shelf options and let one of the shackle plates ride on the threads? Find a local person with a lathe who's willing to make these for me? Keep looking? Give up? Buy new shackles and forget the idea of using these plates?
Keep in mind I have a shackle reversal up front and need 5.5" shackles in the back to keep the truck level. Probably closer to 6" if I move the rear shackle hangers forward. The shackle plates in question are 5.9".
@POTATO LAUNCHER has convinced me to move my rear shackle hangers forward a little bit - softer road ride, better flex, it puts the shackle angle where it needs to be instead of dead vertical. In conjunction with that, I have a set of shackle plates in the right length from @Fyffer sitting on my "to do" shelf. My current rear shackles were always just a stopgap measure anyway, they were incorrect ones that I made to fit (and they don't even do that very well). The problem is finding the proper greasable bolts. The leaf springs are 70mm wide, the flanges on the bushings are 5mm (x2), and the shackle plates are 9mm wide (x2). The total width is 98mm from out edge to outer edge of the shackle plates. The holes are 5/8" (16mm), but I'm not afraid to drill them wider.
How bad is one of the shackle plates resting on the threaded portion of a bolt? I think I want to avoid that. I would need a bolt with a shank length of about 95mm or maybe 100mm if I include washers under the bolt head and nut. Unfortunately everything out there on the web has shank lengths that top out around 80-90mm. It wouldn't be hard to find a regular bolt with the right dimensions from a metric specialty supplier - there's a great one near my house - but I'd really prefer a greasable bolt. I don't have a lathe to make my own unfortunately.
Roger Brown (I think that's @4Cruisers here on Mud) of Toyota Trails tech article fame has a YouTube video going through the process of making them and mentions they're for a custom order through his website ... but he's no longer in business. Sad for me, but good on him for retiring!
So ... what to do? Buy one of the off-the-shelf options and let one of the shackle plates ride on the threads? Find a local person with a lathe who's willing to make these for me? Keep looking? Give up? Buy new shackles and forget the idea of using these plates?
Keep in mind I have a shackle reversal up front and need 5.5" shackles in the back to keep the truck level. Probably closer to 6" if I move the rear shackle hangers forward. The shackle plates in question are 5.9".
What carb are you running? I had this exact misfire on cold start issue with my 60 when I was running the City Racer carb. I had some other issues with it which eventually led to me buying the actual OEM unit 21100-61012 which solved my issue entirely.
- Thread starter
- #612
It’s happened on three Toyota carbs. One that wasn’t rebuilt, one that Nathan rebuilt, and one that I rebuilt.
All of them have the issue where the float bowl mysteriously drains after shutdown. The fuel winds up in the intake manifold. Some kind of pressure differential forcing it out of the venturis maybe? My evap canister and evap BVSV are both new. OVCV is recently tested and works. I’m at a loss.
They are 5.8" MAF shackles, check with them also give Alcan in GJ a buzz for possibly correct greasable bolts. Alcan is not cheap but do custom stuff. Just a thought.
I just went through the same shackle bolt quest for the right length greasable bolt. Never found one. I also did not want the shackle plate to ride on the threaded part of the bolt. I ended up getting 150mm long bolts. They had just enough shank length, 100mm. With washers and nyloc nuts there’s about an inch of threads past the nut. I could have drilled and cross drilled for grease but decided not to. I just tried to get as much HVS100 I could in there.
- Thread starter
- #615
I actually ended up talking to a local guy with a lathe today. I’m going to buy bolts like you did and he’s going to make them greasable! He quoted me $20 to do all four, which seems insanely low. I even told him so.
@Fyffer after my last fiasco with MAF I wouldn’t ever buy from them again. I figured those plates you gave me came from there but I didn’t even bother looking for the greasable bolts on their web page because I’m not going to waste my time again. Contacting Alcan is a good idea though.
Other stuff. New bump stops got ordered today so I can replace the rock hard original ones. All of the universal ones have 4.5 - 5” bolt spacing and the frame holes are 3.5” apart. I’m going to use 1.25” square tube to make an adapter for the 3” bumps. With squish the bumps will bottom out at about 3.5” - that gives me 1/4” of breathing room before the shocks bottom out and let’s me utilize all the up-travel I can.
Karen came up with the idea of notching the square tube as seen below, that way I can get access to the bolts going into the frame. I think it’ll be plenty strong for the rare occasion I bottom out. The dimensions are for the bolt holes.
Can’t wait for Suspension 2.0 to be done … new bump stops all around, all new bushings, moving the rear shackle hangers, correct and functional rear shackles … things should work better and I won’t bottom out on shocks anymore. Suspension 3.0 might be a year or two from now and include taller shock mounts, but I’m forever dedicated to the stupidity of leaf springs. If I wanted could I’d buy an 80 or 100. You never know when the right deal might come along.
20 bucks for all 4!? Crazy good deal! That’s gotta take at least an hour to do that. Set up times, cross drill, tap threads…Maybe you can be the new source for greaseable shackle bolts?
These might be a good option for those pivot points. Also a little shorter than OEM, but you might be able to stack them: McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/product/7650N15
- Thread starter
- #618
Those look perfect, thanks for sharing! I looked on McMaster Carr when I was trying to replace those bushings, but somehow missed those. I hate the search functionality on that site.
Other news… decided to check into my rear shocks and if the stock bump stops would be ok. An abundance of caution after blowing out my fronts, since the old front shocks reach full compression before hitting the bumps. And wouldn’t you know it’s the same case for the rear. Shame on me for not doing the math before buying them. Funny thing is I bought some 4.5” bump stops for the front that won’t work (I have proper ones on the way) … but they’ll work perfectly on the rear. I guess I have four new bumps I need to install. All will get extensions so the shocks will have about 1/4-1/2” of compression left when the axle hits the bumps.
In the process of figuring out the rear shocks situation this morning I went way too deep on the math and compared several popular aftermarket rear shocks for the 60 Series.
Below is a 1:1 diagram of shock travel for 6 different shocks. Written next to each box with the shock name is the overall travel. These up/down travel measurements are based on on my truck at rest - 19” between the shock mounts. Remember, I’m on a shackle reversal with 5.5” rear shackles and 4Plus u-bolt flip plates. This math will be different for everyone but the overall travel for each shock remains there same. Basically when your “at rest” measurement changes, you change your center point within the shock travel.
So they’re all very close in total travel, but based on the compressed length of each shock the range of travel shifts. Shocks with more extension will have less compression and vice verses. Some like the Dobinson Nitro gas 649 split the difference really well for my resting height. Just pick one based on how you want it to ride (firm, medium, soft) and whether you do washboard roads (a remote reservoir or “twin tube” IMS style might be better) and then size your bump stops accordingly.
If any of these have an edge on paper, it’s the Bilstein 5165 25-331851. It has about 1/2-1” more travel than all the rest, a good compressed length (smaller compressed length seems to fit these trucks better), plus a remote reservoir. How does it ride? Bilstein calls the valving “firm” but I don’t have any real world experience with it. You can get a pair for about $600 so the price isn’t too crazy.
- Thread starter
- #619
Decided to tackle the bump stops as described in post 615 above. What a dramatic day.
First, the shackle bolts came in. I’m dropping them off with the lathe guy tomorrow. I also got some stainless tube from McMaster Carr. That will get cut to length (83mm) and act as a sleeve for the anti-inversion bolt in order to keep it from compressing that part of the shackle plates. Rear shackles, bump stops, new front shocks, all new bushings - and maybe moving the rear shackle hangers forward - will be my Suspension 2.0. @klip I keep thinking about what you said, maybe I can supply shackle bolts. But they would be pretty expensive (the bolts and stuff are NOT cheap for hardened, zinc plated, fine-thread M16). I already had some shackle plates drawn up in CAD before @Fyffer gave me a set he had laying around. I planned on getting them cut out of 3/8” 4140 steel and zinc plating them. Very overkill and not cheap. And at the end of the day if I provided an entire high-end shackle setup, it would likely only interest folks with niche applications like mine. A lot of overhead to carry for 2-4 sales per year. But if somebody wants help on a custom job I’d be open to it.
Saturday I made up my adapter/spacer brackets for the bump stops. Not elegant, no eye towards making it a product, just farmer billy bob backyard angle grinder engineering. They work fine though. Here’s one hanging on the paint line.
Snapped a front bump stop bolt and got that out with the welder this morning. What a great sense of false hope - the rest of the day did not go as well.
I got the fronts installed fine. Getting the bolts in and around the brackets is pretty fiddly and annoying, but it all works. Karen’s idea on the bolt head access slots was perfect, although I could have made them a little taller. I have about 5.5” of up travel in the front now after the bumps squish a little. Safe for the shocks by about 1/4-1/2”.
On to the rear. I immediately snapped all four bolts - like within 5 minutes. A couple were sticking out proud of the frame so I tried my welder trick … and snapped all of them off deeper inside the frame. 12 drill bits later I had four holes ready for an M10 tap. Of course my tap set was at home with the 40 because I was removing the bolts on the upper edge of the back end where the top fits to it. That was enough for the day anyway. I’ll finish up this week. Once I tape the holes the install will go pretty quick.
Many drill bits gave their lives today. They will be remembered for their service.
First, the shackle bolts came in. I’m dropping them off with the lathe guy tomorrow. I also got some stainless tube from McMaster Carr. That will get cut to length (83mm) and act as a sleeve for the anti-inversion bolt in order to keep it from compressing that part of the shackle plates. Rear shackles, bump stops, new front shocks, all new bushings - and maybe moving the rear shackle hangers forward - will be my Suspension 2.0. @klip I keep thinking about what you said, maybe I can supply shackle bolts. But they would be pretty expensive (the bolts and stuff are NOT cheap for hardened, zinc plated, fine-thread M16). I already had some shackle plates drawn up in CAD before @Fyffer gave me a set he had laying around. I planned on getting them cut out of 3/8” 4140 steel and zinc plating them. Very overkill and not cheap. And at the end of the day if I provided an entire high-end shackle setup, it would likely only interest folks with niche applications like mine. A lot of overhead to carry for 2-4 sales per year. But if somebody wants help on a custom job I’d be open to it.
Saturday I made up my adapter/spacer brackets for the bump stops. Not elegant, no eye towards making it a product, just farmer billy bob backyard angle grinder engineering. They work fine though. Here’s one hanging on the paint line.
Snapped a front bump stop bolt and got that out with the welder this morning. What a great sense of false hope - the rest of the day did not go as well.
I got the fronts installed fine. Getting the bolts in and around the brackets is pretty fiddly and annoying, but it all works. Karen’s idea on the bolt head access slots was perfect, although I could have made them a little taller. I have about 5.5” of up travel in the front now after the bumps squish a little. Safe for the shocks by about 1/4-1/2”.
On to the rear. I immediately snapped all four bolts - like within 5 minutes. A couple were sticking out proud of the frame so I tried my welder trick … and snapped all of them off deeper inside the frame. 12 drill bits later I had four holes ready for an M10 tap. Of course my tap set was at home with the 40 because I was removing the bolts on the upper edge of the back end where the top fits to it. That was enough for the day anyway. I’ll finish up this week. Once I tape the holes the install will go pretty quick.
Many drill bits gave their lives today. They will be remembered for their service.
I hear you there. I used M18 bolts and they were 20 bucks a pop, just for the bolt. I’m sure with larger orders the price would go down but probably still spendy.