I'm running an MPact clutch RockAuto | All The Parts Your Car Will Ever Need - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7745952&cc=1431118&pt=1993&jsn=1 and whatever flywheel rock auto said went with a 4.8L mt truck.
Build WEAKFISH another FJ62 Build Thread
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I'm running a clutch & flywheel out of a 2001 Chevy Truck with a 6.0L I got from O'Reillys.
- Thread starter
- #243
Looks like you guys both have a good OEM Style GM clutch/ pressure plate that are pretty similar.
Like I’d mentioned above I kinda pulled the trigger on the complete advanced adapters kit (I’ve had no issues with the SBC NV4500 swap on the FJ40 and it has the centerforce pressure plate) I think I talked them into a 10-15% discount, so it didn’t seem terrible at the time
Then I started really digging in on the forums & everyone offered up cheaper methods & additional part numbers….. so I realized I should have gone that route.
Today I drive about 20mi & it started doing it again. Swapped out the new OEM CRT-021 slave cylinder & bled it again, still not fully releasing, gave it about 1/2 additional turn, still doing it……
Did a little research tonight & it quickly brought back 11 year old memories of people trashing centerforce pressure plates for having issues (luckily the FJ40 never had that issue) but it seems after 10months of driving the 62 is having this issue.
It has always had a super heavy pedal feel & a little bit of clutch shudder/chatter….
Thinking I might just ditch it and go with an OEM setup
So far I have gotten plenty of good advice & really not spent much money, I think most people would swap a few components for $20-30 before pulling the trans….
In other news I installed the Alpine labs PCB fast window mod. There are obviously hundreds of threads talking about using relays for a lot less money, but I will say these are fast, easy, and tiny, I’m really happy with this kit from @jonnyd42 tyst I’ve been watching come together, you’ve all probably seen them, but here’s the link.
Fast window mod - motor relays on a PCB! - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fast-window-mod-motor-relays-on-a-pcb.1362942/
Turned out great, simple to install & the windows are working great now.
Like I’d mentioned above I kinda pulled the trigger on the complete advanced adapters kit (I’ve had no issues with the SBC NV4500 swap on the FJ40 and it has the centerforce pressure plate) I think I talked them into a 10-15% discount, so it didn’t seem terrible at the time
Then I started really digging in on the forums & everyone offered up cheaper methods & additional part numbers….. so I realized I should have gone that route.
Today I drive about 20mi & it started doing it again. Swapped out the new OEM CRT-021 slave cylinder & bled it again, still not fully releasing, gave it about 1/2 additional turn, still doing it……
Did a little research tonight & it quickly brought back 11 year old memories of people trashing centerforce pressure plates for having issues (luckily the FJ40 never had that issue) but it seems after 10months of driving the 62 is having this issue.
It has always had a super heavy pedal feel & a little bit of clutch shudder/chatter….
Thinking I might just ditch it and go with an OEM setup
So far I have gotten plenty of good advice & really not spent much money, I think most people would swap a few components for $20-30 before pulling the trans….
In other news I installed the Alpine labs PCB fast window mod. There are obviously hundreds of threads talking about using relays for a lot less money, but I will say these are fast, easy, and tiny, I’m really happy with this kit from @jonnyd42 tyst I’ve been watching come together, you’ve all probably seen them, but here’s the link.
Fast window mod - motor relays on a PCB! - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fast-window-mod-motor-relays-on-a-pcb.1362942/
Turned out great, simple to install & the windows are working great now.
jonnyd42
SILVER Star
Wiring and crimps look great! nice workLooks like you guys both have a good OEM Style GM clutch/ pressure plate that are pretty similar.
Like I’d mentioned above I kinda pulled the trigger on the complete advanced adapters kit (I’ve had no issues with the SBC NV4500 swap on the FJ40 and it has the centerforce pressure plate) I think I talked them into a 10-15% discount, so it didn’t seem terrible at the time
Then I started really digging in on the forums & everyone offered up cheaper methods & additional part numbers….. so I realized I should have gone that route.
Today I drive about 20mi & it started doing it again. Swapped out the new OEM CRT-021 slave cylinder & bled it again, still not fully releasing, gave it about 1/2 additional turn, still doing it……
View attachment 4169587
Did a little research tonight & it quickly brought back 11 year old memories of people trashing centerforce pressure plates for having issues (luckily the FJ40 never had that issue) but it seems after 10months of driving the 62 is having this issue.
It has always had a super heavy pedal feel & a little bit of clutch shudder/chatter….
Thinking I might just ditch it and go with an OEM setup
View attachment 4169591
So far I have gotten plenty of good advice & really not spent much money, I think most people would swap a few components for $20-30 before pulling the trans….
In other news I installed the Alpine labs PCB fast window mod. There are obviously hundreds of threads talking about using relays for a lot less money, but I will say these are fast, easy, and tiny, I’m really happy with this kit from @jonnyd42 tyst I’ve been watching come together, you’ve all probably seen them, but here’s the link.
Fast window mod - motor relays on a PCB! - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fast-window-mod-motor-relays-on-a-pcb.1362942/
View attachment 4169593
Turned out great, simple to install & the windows are working great now.
- Thread starter
- #245
Thanks man, thanks for a great product. Simple easy and it works great.....but I am cursed, I can't have nice things, my Driverside front window motor wouldn't work today... I had to pull the door panel and tap on the motor....Tried the factory relay at first but it was the motor, going to try to dig on the forums for a window motor rehab thread before I try to buy a replacement.
Took a quick pic after I was almost done the roadside fix!
I think I finally got the clutch sorted...... Took the dog for a creek run/ test drive. Got the window back up and the A/C felt great on the drive home.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #246
Ok as far as my clutch situation, I think its fixed, I figure I'll make a big post of it just in case someone stumbles across this thread. When I started to have the issue, I swapped the 13/16" Bore Wilwood Clutch Master Cylinder for the 3/4" bore Wilwood. This mimics the stock setup (mentioned below OEM 3/4" MC) But it reduced the travel of the pushrod...Even with the Centerforce low-profile pressure plate, It isn't enough travel for the pushrod to release the clutch fully.
When I replaced the master cylinder, I couldn't get the line to seal, so I cut it and re-flared it with a new fitting, this must have been the issue from the beginning. There were no visible leaks, reservoir was full, but it must have gotten air in the line Even after bleeding it a few times the clutch wasn't fully releasing. So today after the research below, I swapped back out Master Cylinder, figuring the set should match 13/16" Bore Master and Slave to get the most travel and it worked. The current setup is the Wilwood 260-13620 13/16" Bore Master Cylinder from cruisermatts and a new Aisin CRT-021 slave cylinder, and I am back up and running.
So in trying to fix it, I ended up reducing the pushrod travel by using a MC bore smaller than the SC bore, a little info on that here: Summit Racing Clutch Help
I will probably forget by the time I get asked about it. Most of you already know all this, and I just didn't do a lot of research (I mostly followed the AA instructions for the kit) when I did the initial install.
The 1985 and newer, 60/61/62s use OEM PN 31410-60282 clutch Master Cyliner (Aisin CMT032)
• 4/'85 to 8/'87 U.S. model FJ60
• 11/'84 to 3/'92 non-U.S. FJ62, BJ60, HJ60, HJ61 (without clutch booster)
According to Aisin its a 3/4" bore (.75)
The Slave cylinder is OEM PN 31470-60101 or Aisin CRT-021, which is a 13/16" bore (.81)
The Advance Adapters Kit I used says to cut down a long adjustable pushrod from the earlier OEM PN was 31470-60021 (which I think isn't available right now, so DORMAN CS37215 works). They suggest this rather than reusing the short (non-adjustable) pushrod from the CRT-021.... I think this part of their instructions is vague, but it seems they want you to go to the older style 3/4 bore Dorman slave cylinder. Instruction exerpt below:
Here are two links to threads talking about Specifics of slave cylinders, and to Chevy swap pressure plates and the reduced movement in the Toyota Hydraulic system. This is the reason a lot of people were making the low profile pressure plate...
LS Swap - Stronger Clutch options? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ls-swap-stronger-clutch-options.1365838/
Clutch Slave Differences - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/clutch-slave-differences.79201/
One more post on Marlin forums mentioning the Checker 6cyl clutch, which I think LUK now makes a lot of this stuff if it continued....
V8 Land cruiser swap using 5.3 chevy and FJ60 4-speed - what clutch? - https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=99293.0
At the end of the day, I am back on the road and I learned alot of things that won't really help me until I get another cruiser I guess
.
In other news, go support @mtn biker and the podcast and buy a 2027 Calendar (I made the April picture) Shirts are sweet too!!!!
When I replaced the master cylinder, I couldn't get the line to seal, so I cut it and re-flared it with a new fitting, this must have been the issue from the beginning. There were no visible leaks, reservoir was full, but it must have gotten air in the line Even after bleeding it a few times the clutch wasn't fully releasing. So today after the research below, I swapped back out Master Cylinder, figuring the set should match 13/16" Bore Master and Slave to get the most travel and it worked. The current setup is the Wilwood 260-13620 13/16" Bore Master Cylinder from cruisermatts and a new Aisin CRT-021 slave cylinder, and I am back up and running.
So in trying to fix it, I ended up reducing the pushrod travel by using a MC bore smaller than the SC bore, a little info on that here: Summit Racing Clutch Help
I will probably forget by the time I get asked about it. Most of you already know all this, and I just didn't do a lot of research (I mostly followed the AA instructions for the kit) when I did the initial install.
The 1985 and newer, 60/61/62s use OEM PN 31410-60282 clutch Master Cyliner (Aisin CMT032)
• 4/'85 to 8/'87 U.S. model FJ60
• 11/'84 to 3/'92 non-U.S. FJ62, BJ60, HJ60, HJ61 (without clutch booster)
According to Aisin its a 3/4" bore (.75)
The Slave cylinder is OEM PN 31470-60101 or Aisin CRT-021, which is a 13/16" bore (.81)
The Advance Adapters Kit I used says to cut down a long adjustable pushrod from the earlier OEM PN was 31470-60021 (which I think isn't available right now, so DORMAN CS37215 works). They suggest this rather than reusing the short (non-adjustable) pushrod from the CRT-021.... I think this part of their instructions is vague, but it seems they want you to go to the older style 3/4 bore Dorman slave cylinder. Instruction exerpt below:
Here are two links to threads talking about Specifics of slave cylinders, and to Chevy swap pressure plates and the reduced movement in the Toyota Hydraulic system. This is the reason a lot of people were making the low profile pressure plate...
LS Swap - Stronger Clutch options? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ls-swap-stronger-clutch-options.1365838/
Clutch Slave Differences - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/clutch-slave-differences.79201/
One more post on Marlin forums mentioning the Checker 6cyl clutch, which I think LUK now makes a lot of this stuff if it continued....
V8 Land cruiser swap using 5.3 chevy and FJ60 4-speed - what clutch? - https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=99293.0
At the end of the day, I am back on the road and I learned alot of things that won't really help me until I get another cruiser I guess
. In other news, go support @mtn biker and the podcast and buy a 2027 Calendar (I made the April picture) Shirts are sweet too!!!!
- Thread starter
- #247
Today I did a 270-mile shake-down ride..... The wife had to work, and the babysitter had the little one, so I loaded up my fishing gear and jumped in the cruiser. I got an early start, so there were still low-sitting clouds on the mountains.
The Cruiser ran great, A/C running, shifted fine, and had no clutch issues pulling all the big mountains. It has been really warm lately, almost 100° every day around here. Driving up to the mountains, I was hoping to find cooler temps and cooler water. The first river I stopped at felt warmer than usual and had no action, so I was forced back to creeks and smaller water.
Caught a few little native Brook Trout, which was fun, but all the bigger stuff was hiding out deep and waiting for the water temps to go back down.
It was a great quick trip; I was back by 4:30 to pick up my son from the babysitter, and the cruiser did great. There are still several things to knock off the list, hopefully I can get to a few sooner rather than later.
The Cruiser ran great, A/C running, shifted fine, and had no clutch issues pulling all the big mountains. It has been really warm lately, almost 100° every day around here. Driving up to the mountains, I was hoping to find cooler temps and cooler water. The first river I stopped at felt warmer than usual and had no action, so I was forced back to creeks and smaller water.
Caught a few little native Brook Trout, which was fun, but all the bigger stuff was hiding out deep and waiting for the water temps to go back down.
It was a great quick trip; I was back by 4:30 to pick up my son from the babysitter, and the cruiser did great. There are still several things to knock off the list, hopefully I can get to a few sooner rather than later.
- Thread starter
- #248
Well, knocked out a few things today.
On yesterdays drive back it was raining and I hit the rear window washer only to see washer fluid pouring out of the headliner above the rear hatch.... I guess the line broke since the last time I used it. So I found a thread saying you could pull the line through the side vent, but it is taped to the wire bundle everywhere; not sure if that changed for the last year or others found a workaround.
I removed all the covers on the hatch and snaked a new line up and into the header, where I found the line separated. And trimmed the old line back a bit.
It split right at this factory metal splice, which probably restricted the flow and caused it to separate. Here's the new connection, and you can see the old line connected to the new line. I didn't want to pull down the headliner, so I chose to leave the rest of the old line in the truck for now.
When I pulled the vent to access the line, I faced the same problem @BurntToast just found: an old, crusty broken flap in the vent.... So I used thin rubber to repair it for now, but may use something better in the future. I'll probably need to do the other side, but just wanted to get it back together for now.
I just cut a piece of rubber from an old dirt bike tire (I try to keep a spare tube in the shop for times like this).
I got everything back together, and it works so that was a win.
I keep mentioning all the things I have sitting around that I wanna knock off the list; one of them is sound deadening on the floor. I am hoping it helps out and quiets down some road and transmission noise. The carpet has holes from the original shifter where bare metal is showing.
I have seen some people putting in the work with dry ice and removing the factory sound deadening, and some people have left it. Since there appears to be little to no rust on this cruiser, I opted to leave it. If I was fighting rust issues, I'd strip it and repair the metal or treat it before putting this down.
I cleaned everything up and vacuumed it up to prepare for the sound deadening. I pulled apart my rear heater because "Low Speed" doesn't work, and the motor squeaks. It looks like the motor itself is bad, I am debating buying a new one cbut it will wait for now. I also want to secure the Cruiser Crap center console a little better, because it would squeak and rattle, thinking riv-nuts or 1/4-20 nutplates to really bolt it down, and use some rubber pads for it too.
I'm halfway there; I'm going to finish installing the driver's side in the morning.
I also went ahead and removed the wiring for the LED light pods and Light bar on the roof rack. They were wired by the PO, and the switches were all wired direct with no relays, so the Light bar melted the switch,
so I just haven't been using them. The wires ran up the door gasket and made the door difficult to shut. You had to slam the door to get it to properly close. I don't like routing wire where it is going to get constant pressure, rubbing, and squeezing, so it's all out and the door shuts effortlessly now.
heres all the wires I removed (and will save for later) and here is the back of the switch panel from the center console...I put a factory blank where the melted switch was from the light bar.
At least I am posting about working on my cruiser in the build thread and not just posting pictures of fish.. I don't want anyone to get upset
On yesterdays drive back it was raining and I hit the rear window washer only to see washer fluid pouring out of the headliner above the rear hatch.... I guess the line broke since the last time I used it. So I found a thread saying you could pull the line through the side vent, but it is taped to the wire bundle everywhere; not sure if that changed for the last year or others found a workaround.
I removed all the covers on the hatch and snaked a new line up and into the header, where I found the line separated. And trimmed the old line back a bit.
It split right at this factory metal splice, which probably restricted the flow and caused it to separate. Here's the new connection, and you can see the old line connected to the new line. I didn't want to pull down the headliner, so I chose to leave the rest of the old line in the truck for now.
When I pulled the vent to access the line, I faced the same problem @BurntToast just found: an old, crusty broken flap in the vent.... So I used thin rubber to repair it for now, but may use something better in the future. I'll probably need to do the other side, but just wanted to get it back together for now.
I just cut a piece of rubber from an old dirt bike tire (I try to keep a spare tube in the shop for times like this).
I got everything back together, and it works so that was a win.
I keep mentioning all the things I have sitting around that I wanna knock off the list; one of them is sound deadening on the floor. I am hoping it helps out and quiets down some road and transmission noise. The carpet has holes from the original shifter where bare metal is showing.
I have seen some people putting in the work with dry ice and removing the factory sound deadening, and some people have left it. Since there appears to be little to no rust on this cruiser, I opted to leave it. If I was fighting rust issues, I'd strip it and repair the metal or treat it before putting this down.
I cleaned everything up and vacuumed it up to prepare for the sound deadening. I pulled apart my rear heater because "Low Speed" doesn't work, and the motor squeaks. It looks like the motor itself is bad, I am debating buying a new one cbut it will wait for now. I also want to secure the Cruiser Crap center console a little better, because it would squeak and rattle, thinking riv-nuts or 1/4-20 nutplates to really bolt it down, and use some rubber pads for it too.
I'm halfway there; I'm going to finish installing the driver's side in the morning.
I also went ahead and removed the wiring for the LED light pods and Light bar on the roof rack. They were wired by the PO, and the switches were all wired direct with no relays, so the Light bar melted the switch,
so I just haven't been using them. The wires ran up the door gasket and made the door difficult to shut. You had to slam the door to get it to properly close. I don't like routing wire where it is going to get constant pressure, rubbing, and squeezing, so it's all out and the door shuts effortlessly now. heres all the wires I removed (and will save for later) and here is the back of the switch panel from the center console...I put a factory blank where the melted switch was from the light bar.
At least I am posting about working on my cruiser in the build thread and not just posting pictures of fish.. I don't want anyone to get upset
- Thread starter
- #249
Today I got the rest of the sound deadening in and put everything back together. I was able to use nutserts for the front mounts on the center console and extruded u-nuts for the rear bolts on the rear heater.... both were sized for 1/4-20 bolts, i just wanted the center console to be mounted wiht something better than self-tappers and I used more of that motorcycle tube rubber to reduce the rattle/vibration I was getting, its much more secure now.
Here are the nuserts and extruded u-nuts before use.
I also removed the back seat and vacuumed, and I reversed the seatbelts so the center and passenger side are correct now.
You can see a little of the blue sound deadening where I need to come up with a solution to patch the carpet from the original shifter and the driver's side dead pedal, which I kinda like that it was removed. I also finally installed a usb charger (that I bought over a year ago) in the center console using the wiring I ran from the fuse panel I installed behind the driver side kick panel, there are two other wires running to the console for future use.
The small underseat subwoofer I put on the passenger side was finally mounted so it would stop sliding around. And I ran the remote control for it to the center console. I drove the cruiser to the canal and went on a walk and let the dog swim in the river, another hot day around here. It is much quieter in the cruiser, I am glad to notice immediate improvement.
Here are the nuserts and extruded u-nuts before use.
I also removed the back seat and vacuumed, and I reversed the seatbelts so the center and passenger side are correct now.
You can see a little of the blue sound deadening where I need to come up with a solution to patch the carpet from the original shifter and the driver's side dead pedal, which I kinda like that it was removed. I also finally installed a usb charger (that I bought over a year ago) in the center console using the wiring I ran from the fuse panel I installed behind the driver side kick panel, there are two other wires running to the console for future use.
The small underseat subwoofer I put on the passenger side was finally mounted so it would stop sliding around. And I ran the remote control for it to the center console. I drove the cruiser to the canal and went on a walk and let the dog swim in the river, another hot day around here. It is much quieter in the cruiser, I am glad to notice immediate improvement.
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So in short.. your life would be a lot easier if you used the $300 clutch and flywheel from Rock auto (that I probably recommended, they work great with the 3/4” bore) vs the $1K Centerforce / AA setup
- Thread starter
- #251
So in short.. your life would be a lot easier if you used the $300 clutch and flywheel from Rock auto (that I probably recommended, they work great with the 3/4” bore) vs the $1K Centerforce / AA setup
Dude, I agree….and you did, but it was after I pulled the trigger on the AA kit…. I could have done a little more research & slowly gathered parts rather than place the big order with them… similar to how I did my 40 project. I know once I had the AA Kit in hand you’d recommended a much cheaper suggestion of flywheel & clutch….
. I obviously bought your motor mounts & a few other things & have a good amount of the AA kit sitting on my floor 
.If I were to do it again, I would have bought the FJ62 for cheaper with an already blown 3FE and the original A440F.
I would have used the NV4500 and aluminum bellhousing like I did in the 40 and shed the weight of the cast iron bellhousing. Would have searched the forums for a few weeks and made a few phone calls before any purchases...but I bought an expensive running cruiser and wanted it back on the road ASAP so I pulled the trigger before looking for other options, only saving grace is that kit costs like 1/3 more now so the expensive price tag I paid has already gone up and I got a 10% discount...
I think we all spend more money than we should have or wanted to. Bottom line you figured it out and got it working again. Good job! And super cool pics! You live in a beautiful area.
- Thread starter
- #253
Thanks, I definitely do that, haha!! Yeah, I am just glad I didn't spiral down a rabbit hole and pull more stuff apart, especially if it didn't fix it. I love this area, plenty of gorgeous mountain drives, hikes, you name it, just glad I get to get out and enjoy it.
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- Threads
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- 17,565
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
For what it’s worth I prefer the fit/finish of the install much more with the H55f vs the Nv4500.
- Thread starter
- #255
I appreciate that it was installed before I got it. I think I just need to get these sumo gears installed; that's next on my list, and that will help get the RPMs down a little. Putting the sound deadening over the transmission tunnel really helped quiet it down; a few spots were just bare metal, and I could hear everything in the cab.
Yesterday's project was to actually wire up the second battery. I installed the tray and battery almost a year ago, but have had this dual battery isolator kit sitting on my toolbox the whole time. I made this little bracket to mount the isolator relay on the fender by the PCM using one of the exsisting threaded holes from the emissions VSV or whatever was there.... I need to get a little more wire loom but am overall happy with how it turned out....
- Thread starter
- #256
My horn started randomly going off, the first time I was riding with my wife, and I thought it was a transmission noise. I was trying to listen in a little better when she was like "Its the horn" and I wiggled the center of the steering wheel, and it stopped. It happened twice again today, so I took it apart to investigate.
Once I got all the horn hardware off I found these two little lower screws backed out, the one circled was floating around in there randomly setting the horn off, so I put it all back together and tightened it up, and it was good to go.
So I took the dog to the creek to try to beat this heat...today was another 90°+ Day out!!!
Once I got all the horn hardware off I found these two little lower screws backed out, the one circled was floating around in there randomly setting the horn off, so I put it all back together and tightened it up, and it was good to go.
So I took the dog to the creek to try to beat this heat...today was another 90°+ Day out!!!
- Thread starter
- #257
I got some of the chrome trim for the driver's-side gutter from Barnyard Cruisers and its been sitting around for a while, so today I loosened up the roof rack and got it on. I put some RTV on the very base just to keep it attached and ensure a stick or carwash doesn't peel it off. This cruiser had the trim on the gutter halfway across the back and all on the passenger side, just none on the driver's-side. I would have never noticed honestly, but when I bought it the PO pointed it out and it has always bugged me
