Build WEAKFISH another FJ62 Build Thread

[cruisermatt]

I will be watching, I could use several of those items

 

[huminajumina]

Baby’s first Landcruiser ride!

Baby Elliott, wife, Charlie pup, and the Honda CT110 all fit pretty well & I hauled them all to her sisters house today. It was like 70° out today so we hungout on the front porch & I hit some laps in on the 110.

 

[huminajumina]

Still got a list of s*** that I wanna do, but I have just been driving when the roads are clear of salt....

Need to get a new steering box from @jkdur728 I don't think the gouge in the case of mine is salvageable, it's been apart several times, and it ain't getting better..... maybe I can cruise down his way and say hey.

Need to I need to get the overdrive gears in, running good, but I have the Sumo overdrive gears sitting here
Cruise control, would be nice, I think I have everything
some insulation on the floor to quiet it down a bit
A custom tune, I have been holding out to find the right shop, but need to make some calls and get it done

 

[RevISK]

Nice shot man.

 

[Skniper]

Nice shot man.

I like that he got the little air freshener hangy thingy to hang just right off the mirror.

 

[huminajumina]

Finally found the time to reachout to @jkdur728 and get a new steering box. He was busy but had a few minutes to meet so I drove down and picked it up.

I stopped by the Blandy Farm on the way back and snapped some pictures while I walked the dog and got the baby down for another nap in his carrier. It felt like spring today, so it was the perfect unexpected Land Cruiser adventure.

Hoping I can clean this box up and get it in, the whining power steering pump has been annoying, but the inconsistency in the steering has been worse. For those that are curious, that bird next to the moon is a Northern Flicker (Yellow-Shafted, Male). I don't really know what that means, but it looked kinda cool. The squirrel would be more exciting if I was carrying Grampa's 410, but Virginia is a commonwealth, and I am not sure how they feel about blasting squirrels in their State Arboretum.

 

[huminajumina]

New Box is cleaned up and painted up and installed, cycled it through lock to lock about 10 times in the air, then started it and did the same with it running, going to cycle it a few times tomorrow and run it and see how it does.

Everything seems to be lined up, sectorshaft mark is in alignment with the pitman arm, steering wheel is centered, and it seems like the tires move the same amount either way, but you know how it goes, if you miss it by a tooth it will look funky on the highway, so I will test drive it and see where it's at.

 

[huminajumina]

Pump is in and put 75 miles on and it fixed the issue, so far no fluid leaks, but I haven't quieted down the PS Pump whine... I am going to swap it out since it was a Advance auto rebuilt pump.... curious if it has damaged it driving it with the wine for a while. I know its ont a new genuine GM pump, but I got it so I can swap it out a few times at the local parts store . Steering is a lot tighter now, and that inconsistency is gone so I am thrilled. And yes I bled the system several times and cycled it lock to lock on the lift w engine off, then engine on (still in the air). no visible leaks and everything is tight.

 

[huminajumina]

I remplaced a rear door lock actuator with one I found a while ago on ebay, that gets me to mostly 3 of the 4 doors reliably working..... I also found a cheapo rear door window switch to replace my broken switch in the right rear.... the metal tabs were broken off so the switch was just hanging by the wiring.

New cheap swithc is mounted in the door card in the background, it doesn't quite match, but at least its not just hanging by the wiring now.

Here's the old actuator with the missing rod I replaced with a piece of a coat hanger a while back.

I have had project taco apart on the lift again, trying to get it ready to finally sell, trying to get rid of a noise that I suspect is a bad hub bearing.....needless to say, I haven't put much effort into the landcruiser lately.

 

[huminajumina]

Yesterday I knocked out a quick little rainy day project, got replacement caps and covers from curiseryard..... My wipers are super slow, I have looked up all the power window issues and plan to go down that rabbit hole in the future, but I guess I should look into making the wipers a bit faster too....but at least for now they look good.

Also, today I removed the UH Badge, not sure if the PO or POO was a fan, but I finally removed it too. It was one of those metal ones with quality 3M adhesive, so it really took some work to get it off. Someone suggested using a fly fishing leader to get underneath and saw it off, but it snapped immediately ( now it was one of those 4-year-old ones in my bag that snaps when you catch a decent-sized fish, so who knows if a fresh new one woulda worked). But I resorted to the plastic scrapers and took it easy....

Then the wife and I took a cruise with the dog and baby, got in a nice walk, dinner and cruised back home.....

 

[huminajumina]

I have been meaning to do a catch-up post. I got some parts in the garage waiting to be put on, but I have been pretty busy with the baby and work lately.... About a month or two ago, the cruiser started to have issues where the clutch is not disengaging.....I checked all the usual suspects. The pedal is firm, no visible leaks at the master or the slave cylinder, Nothing is loose..... The Slave cylinder has an adjustable pushrod I adjusted it and added .25" of extension... barely helped.

Today I pulled the exhaust and dropped the inspection cover, hoping to find the Marks 4WD adapter had come loose....Nothing. Everything looks like it did the day I installed it. Except now the throwout bearing is riding on the pressure plate (no clearance).

I swapped out the Master Cylinder for the .75" Bore Wilwood. (Sorry @cruisermatt, I just bought it in a hurry). Bleed the system 5 times....no changes, feels firm, I measured the movement of the throwout bearing and it's close to a half an inch. (Seems normal to me)....


Anyone have any advice? I think I covered all my bases, and It something wrong with the pressure plate. I am just hoping I am missing something simple before I pull the trans.

Basically my thought is I need to readjust the pushrod to give the throwout bearing clearance so it's not riding on the pressure plate at all times. (so it doesn't wear out in a heartbeat.) Regardless, the throwout bearing either isn't travelling far enough (no adjustment available), or something on the pressure plate isn't releasing while it's being pressed.

 

[yotadude520]

Interesting that your truck has an adjustable slave cylinder....maybe when they did the H55F swap they used the earlier Pre-85 bellhousing? I know that 85 & up trucks have different slave cylinders and that the throwout bearing was designed to ride on the pressure plate all the time post 85.

I wonder if you could swap to a later style clutch slave cylinder and ditch the adjustable one? Your only throwout bearing adjustment point should be in the Marks Adapter.

FWIW I just went through the adjustment process on mine with @JoeW recently. I had initially had mine adjusted a little further out than yours, but my clutch pedal was getting so stiff it was almost impossible to drive. Consulting with Joe this is the adjustment I ended up with and my clutch is working really well and I have a much softer pedal.

How do you know the clutch isn't disengaging?

 

[cruisermatt]

Will is dead on - you have a 85-87 bellhousing and fork, you should have a 31470-60102 / CRT021, non-adjustable slave. Someone welded that hook for the return spring, you shouldn't have that either.
I agree though it sound slike a pressure plate issue

 

[huminajumina]

Interesting that your truck has an adjustable slave cylinder....maybe when they did the H55F swap they used the earlier Pre-85 bellhousing? I know that 85 & up trucks have different slave cylinders and that the throwout bearing was designed to ride on the pressure plate all the time post 85.

I wonder if you could swap to a later style clutch slave cylinder and ditch the adjustable one? Your only throwout bearing adjustment point should be in the Marks Adapter.

FWIW I just went through the adjustment process on mine with @JoeW recently. I had initially had mine adjusted a little further out than yours, but my clutch pedal was getting so stiff it was almost impossible to drive. Consulting with Joe this is the adjustment I ended up with and my clutch is working really well and I have a much softer pedal.

How do you know the clutch isn't disengaging?

@yotadude520 Ok good to know, I didn't realize they went to a design where the throwout bearing always rode on the pressure plate, this is good info... Yes someone before me did the H55F swap, and I then did the LS swap, so I didn't do the H55f swap research to see what parts I have....

A few things from your post trying to organize it so its less confusing:

1). I think the slave is the 31470-60102 / CRT021 (non-adjustable slave) Matt mentioned, but I put this modified shortened Adjustable pushrod on it..... but I have a new CRT021 coming tomorrow and will keep the non-adjustable pushrod on it.

2). Bellhousing, if it has 3F stamped on the top, it should be a Post 85 bellhousing, right? ( I think in my stupidity I may be misleading with the bellhousing since I swapped in that modified/shortened adjustable pushrod)...... My guess is other than the 2F - 3F differences, the pre 85. slave mounts are further away to accommodate that longer pushrod, and you have to notch the bellhousing to get a H55F to fit...... But non of that should apply if it has 3F stamped in the top. Here's my bellhousing pictured below.

3) Everything that you stated above are my symptoms up until recently when it stopped working....Super heavy pedal, hard to drive!

4) How do I know, It was like I had a syncronizer going out, hard to shift without grinding gears unless I double clutched. Then it got to where wouldn't shift from neutral into any gear with the pedal pressed. Now if I press the pedal, it is firm, I hear it move the throwout arm/bearing (engine off) and I can rock the cruiser in first, I can rock it and its the same with clutch depressed or not (shifted in 1st) so its just hitting the gears and stopping.

Next move:
I will make sure the slave/pushrod are the correct setup and remove the return spring, I will adjust to make sure the throwout bearing is firmly against the pressure plate and see if it gives me that little bit more travel I need... I'd prefer to do this before pulling the trans to look at the pressure plate, but I'm not ruling out that as suspect just yet.....


Whats wierd is I was driving just fine (heavy pedal) but no issues for almost 10 months, so I am not sure what changed, everything is tight, nothing loosend up or backed off.

 

[yotadude520]

1) That's the exact same slave cylinder that I'm running

2) That's right - 3F bellhousing is 85+. Same bellhousing that came stock in my 86. The adjustable slave cylinders had a bracket on them that pushed it out a bit. Here's a repro cruisermatt makes for reference:

1981-84 Clutch Slave Cylinder Mounting Bracket 31479-60030

Billet Aluminum clutch slave cylinder mounting bracket for 1981-84 FJ40 and FJ60 models. Includes new OEM hardware for bracket! Replaces Toyota Part # 31479-60030 Made in USA If you have any questions about compatibility or installation, please do not hesitate to reach out to us for...

cruisermatts.com

What's funny is I've run mine for over a year and just recently started to get a really stiff pedal. I never had any issues shifting with mine but my initial TO bearing adjustment was about two threads further out than yours currently. I was getting prepared to pull the trans and swap the clutch but since I readjusted mine it has been great and I've had no engagement/disengagement issues as of yet.

Keep us posted!

 

[huminajumina]

Ok, I swapped out the pushrod and tightened the extension sleeve until it felt like it met resistance by hand + maybe 1/3 turn (I don't want to go too tight and make the clutch slip). I then tightened down the spanner nut to lock it in place. It is now disengaging (using the rocking the vehicle test). Seems like its at a good point, Its not as heavy of a pedal as it was, but I would still stay its a little on the heavy side. Here is a picture of the threads showing on the Extension sleeve after final adjustment.

I put torque lock paint on it to see if it moves at all..... I was able to move it by hand before ( it took a lot of effort, but I could). so I think the spanner nut was tight, but not tight enough to keep it from rotating in over time.....

I think I have about 4-5 threads showing on the extension sleeve, @yotadude520 your picture shows 6-7ish was that after adjustment?

I just want to do the best I can to gert it adjusted before I put the inspection cover and exhaust back up, not the biggest job, but it will save me time to do it right while its apart.

 

[yotadude520]

Glad to hear it's disengaging again! That picture above was post adjustment, initially it was very close to where yours was.

I couldn't turn my lock nut by hand when I was making my adjustments, I had to hit the tool with a hammer to break it free and got it as tight as I could when before putting everything back together. I took mine for a spin without the exhaust before I put it all back on just to make sure, it is kind of a PITA to get the crossover out.

 

[huminajumina]

Ok so I did two adjustments and two test drives....1st was too much, it was slipping, and 2nd was not enough; it was still not fully disengaging.... I am thinking there should be room for a perfect medium adjustment in the middle.

Like I said that new slave cylinder is on the way and should get here tomorrow. I will probably swap it out just to be sure, then get my buddy to help me bleed it again.

Here is my Crossover/Y-pipe, I put a v band clamp in the middle to separate it and that really helps. I have to remove the forward stud on the driverside manifold, but the other 3 can stay in.

Thanks for all the help guys, hoping I can get it dialed in tomorrow.

 

[JoeW]

Here's my adjustment, the caliper is the amount of threads (roughly) that are exposed. I have an 87 3F Bell housing and non adjustable slave cylinder. Hopefully you can get it sorted

 

[huminajumina]

Thanks @JoeW it seems like you and @yotadude520 are very similar in adjustment & seems to be working well for both of you. What clutch & pressure plate are you guys running? I bought the full Advanced Adapters kit with the centerforce pressure plate and clutch disk (snapshot below). Will seeing if this changes things, because my adjustment looks closer to where you guys used to be setup, but I can’t get as many threads showing as you are….its ok, it runs and I’m happy, and I got really good at pulling the exhaust Y-Pipe .

Here’s a picture of all of my adjustments (sorry no measurements), and here’s the kit & part numbers I’m using…..the price of this kit has shot up tremendously .