Builds Unicorns are real... My dream car FJ73 build (1 Viewer)

2fpower

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Thought I would give an update...

I was trying to figure out why I could not connect to the OBDII port and get any data... PSI helped me troubleshoot and their tech decided it had to be tranny computer, so he had me ship it back to them to check it out.... several days later PSI called and said they have to have the engine computer as well, so shipped that off.... UHHHH! frustrated, but glad I have someone to help...

Yesterday, heard that everything is fine with both computers, so immediately called the tech support and told him the news and asked him if there was anything else he wanted to check out, do so before they shipped it to me again, as once I get it and since nothing changed it will be back in his court to figure out what the problem could be...... anyway, he emailed me several times yesterday, and is working to check out something with the tuner.

Overall, still happy with PSI, as It is great to have such support! Yes, I wish it worked first time; however, if I made my own harness, i would have no idea of what to do next...
 

2fpower

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quick update... got computers reflashed and they confirmed on bench that OBDII port works, so they sent them back, I installed and still not working for me. They sent me pin out diagrams so I can chase down and see if any bad wires.
 

2fpower

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The last time I drove it I hit a bump and had some pretty bad death wobble so got an angle finder to figure out the issue. if I zero out at the transfer case, I have 19.3 degrees upward angle on my front pinion.

C4417EC0-7C68-4069-B191-3DA48D7F3AC6.jpeg




When I look at the knuckles, and I used the center frame of the car as zero, it appears I have a 3.1 degree negative camber to the car. I believe that a 3 degree positive camber is the goal. This is a 2" ironman lift. Anyone else have experience with Ironman lifts and shims?



B3C7FE81-84C2-4AC3-9BD8-867787767B20.jpeg
 

cruisermatt

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Caster isn't relative to the frame/vehicle, it's relative to the ground.

Put angle finder on lower or upper knuckle studs and report back
 

2fpower

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Caster isn't relative to the frame/vehicle, it's relative to the ground.

Put angle finder on lower or upper knuckle studs and report back
Ok… much better answer. Looks like I have a little over 1° of positive caster. I reached out to Iron Man and they pointed me toward 3° shims, as what is typically used with these springs. So, suggestions should I get 2° or 3° shims?

F8AA2ABF-9E32-4A80-B9E8-5050BAE85DF5.jpeg
 
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Broski

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Ok… much better answer. Looks like I have a little over 1° of positive camber. I reached out to Iron Man and they pointed me toward 3° shims, as what is typically used with these springs. So, suggestions should I get 2° or 3° shims?

View attachment 3077790
A little more caster is better 3 degrees shims
 
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A little more caster is better 3 degrees shims
I would fix the caster first (bushings or arms, or repositioning the mounts on the axle, or lower the mounts on the chassis...etc.) this should get you closer to the correct numbers, especially if you were in the range before the lift and nothing was done to the knuckles
Good luck
 

Broski

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I would fix the caster first (bushings or arms, or repositioning the mounts on the axle, or lower the mounts on the chassis...etc.) this should get you closer to the correct numbers, especially if you were in the range before the lift and nothing was done to the knuckles
Good luck
It’s leaf springs, so cut or turn the knuckles or reposition the mounts on the the axle which would be ideal.
But the OP asked about what size shims 🤷‍♂️
 
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It’s leaf springs, so cut or turn the knuckles or reposition the mounts on the the axle which would be ideal.
But the OP asked about what size shims 🤷‍♂️
Sorry, missed it.
I thought OP was still invested in camber issue. Also did not understand the reading vector of the digital level gadget in the last picture.
Hope I haven't mislead anyone
Cheers
 
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2fpower

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2fpower

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Buyer beware.....

I have given @JDMStanNTopSoft a lot of time to respond, and he has not given any contact, I paid $2800 for the top back in March of this year, expecting it to take quite some time to get it made and shipped, but I do expect some communication about the progress. I started asking for updates back in June, with no reply. I can see he is still active on MUD, actively trying to sell parts...

@FJBen just want you to be aware in case anyone else asks for info...

@hoser tried to warn me his quality was getting in question, should have listened.

His email is Tokyo Drift vintagetokyodrift@gmail.com
 

Broski

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Buyer beware.....

I have given @JDMStanNTopSoft a lot of time to respond, and he has not given any contact, I paid $2800 for the top back in March of this year, expecting it to take quite some time to get it made and shipped, but I do expect some communication about the progress. I started asking for updates back in June, with no reply. I can see he is still active on MUD, actively trying to sell parts...

@FJBen just want you to be aware in case anyone else asks for info...

@hoser tried to warn me his quality was getting in question, should have listened.

His email is Tokyo Drift vintagetokyodrift@gmail.com
He solicited me about a soft top back in June. Thank for the heads up.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/conversations/73-soft-top.909159/#convMessage-2763507
 

FJBen

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Buyer beware.....

I have given @JDMStanNTopSoft a lot of time to respond, and he has not given any contact, I paid $2800 for the top back in March of this year, expecting it to take quite some time to get it made and shipped, but I do expect some communication about the progress. I started asking for updates back in June, with no reply. I can see he is still active on MUD, actively trying to sell parts...

@FJBen just want you to be aware in case anyone else asks for info...

@hoser tried to warn me his quality was getting in question, should have listened.

His email is Tokyo Drift vintagetokyodrift@gmail.com

Man that ls sad to hear. It is a lot of money to outlay and get no product and no response at all. He did work with me and it did only take a month from payment to shipment.

I know they were working on quality and I’ve always said it wasn’t perfect by any stretch and could use quite a few improvements.

I have heard some others say online they had bad quality issues with there’s so maybe I got lucky or things have changed?

Hopefully @JDMStanNTopSoft will respond.
 

JDMStanNTopSoft

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Man that ls sad to hear. It is a lot of money to outlay and get no product and no response at all. He did work with me and it did only take a month from payment to shipment.

I know they were working on quality and I’ve always said it wasn’t perfect by any stretch and could use quite a few improvements.

I have heard some others say online they had bad quality issues with there’s so maybe I got lucky or things have changed?

Hopefully @JDMStanNTopSoft will respond.
Hello Ben,
I have already responded at beware of @JDMStanNtopSoft - https://forum.ih8mud.com/posts/14573469/

We have been in touch with all four of our current orders. We have had no major issues with soft-top fabric and our fabricated hardware. We were using used 70 series SWB rear back arches for most of our orders. Our metal fabricators would repair and refurbish them, and we would powder coat them. They became somewhat of an achilles heel, when Out of 20+ orders, 4-5 reported that they weren’t happy with the quality of the rear arch.

This is when we decided we had to make our own. At our own cost, we have been experimenting the hardware on multiple 73/74 series here.

We also plan to ship our own arches to our older customers, but that seems ambitious uptil now.

Also when Ben reported that the windscreen channel could be sturdier, we worked on that as well.

Jason here on IH8MUD is our oldest and happiest customer. It’s a unique product and despite being a simple design, no one uptil now has been able to make it.
 

hoser

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Besides Jason, are there any other customers on MUD that has received the product?
 

FJBen

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Hello Ben,
I have already responded at beware of @JDMStanNtopSoft - https://forum.ih8mud.com/posts/14573469/

We have been in touch with all four of our current orders. We have had no major issues with soft-top fabric and our fabricated hardware. We were using used 70 series SWB rear back arches for most of our orders. Our metal fabricators would repair and refurbish them, and we would powder coat them. They became somewhat of an achilles heel, when Out of 20+ orders, 4-5 reported that they weren’t happy with the quality of the rear arch.

This is when we decided we had to make our own. At our own cost, we have been experimenting the hardware on multiple 73/74 series here.

We also plan to ship our own arches to our older customers, but that seems ambitious uptil now.

Also when Ben reported that the windscreen channel could be sturdier, we worked on that as well.

Jason here on IH8MUD is our oldest and happiest customer. It’s a unique product and despite being a simple design, no one uptil now has been able to make it.
Appreciate the update. This is definitely a unique/niche product.

Curious to see that new arch design as well.

Thanks for the update for @2fpower

Besides Jason, are there any other customers on MUD that has received the product?

I have one of the tops I received in June 2021. Overall I’m happy with the product. I didn’t have the outlay for $6k for an oem top not too mention the legwork for it. It’s taken a little fab and some working a little bit, but overall considering, not much.

He was pretty much in communication the whole time minus one little blip during EId.


I honestly don’t know of anyone else making OEM style soft tops, or any soft tops for our Rigs besides Toyota.

I hope they can keep doing it and fulfill the other orders and continue to update and make them product better.
 

2fpower

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Finally figured out the problem with the computer in the transmission. There is a sleeve that you put in that I want sidelocks into your wiring harness of the car the other side seals the transmission fluid in tranny. It appears that mine was not fully in, as one of the O-rings had deformed…. This is how it should look when it’s fully in. There’s about three stages it goes in so keep wiggling it until it gets all the way to this point.

1CDE8203-4A2D-4D91-B5AE-F309DA4AC5D6.jpeg
 

2fpower

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Been accumulating some other things….

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