Build Unicorns are real... My dream car FJ73 build

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New question...

Working with PSI on the wiring and computer programming and they need tire size and gear ratio. So, I need to figure out what ratio I want now. Anyone do this calc with a 6l80/90?
 
@Stoshu has been giving me advice over on the 80 v8 swap board.

Trying to nail down gear ratios.

Pretty sure we were talking about 33 inch tires... or was it 35?? What size are you running???



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Looked back and pretty sure that 33" tires clear with a 2" lift without rubbing, so based on that, looks like I need 3.73 gears.

@cjmoon Got a job for you.


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starting to think about a new radiator for this monster. Found aluminum three core.

This one does not have integrated cooler for the automatic transmission. in and out hoses are on the same side - driver side
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also, three core, with input and out on opposite sides.


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here is the one with the cooler for transmission, but only two row.


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Guess my question is how much cooling for engine do I need and if I need three core, what options for cooling the transmission?
 
I look at it as more of a trans warmer/temp maintainer. I’ve ran without on vehicles here in Florida, but I wouldn’t up north. I assume you’ll have a external cooler?

If you were to find a radiator with both the in and out on the (US) passenger side that would be pretty convenient.
 
I look at it as more of a trans warmer/temp maintainer. I’ve ran without on vehicles here in Florida, but I wouldn’t up north. I assume you’ll have a external cooler?

If you were to find a radiator with both the in and out on the (US) passenger side that would be pretty convenient.

I think I would need an external cooler, especially in the mountains where this will be playing.

Did a quick comparison, to see about the cooling surface on an 80 radiator and a 70 series. An 80 does have a section used for transmission cooling and has the separate tranny cooler, not sure how much is used for that.

Used numbers from ebay vendor Worley cooling that sells both radiators.

Core on 70 = 500mm x525mm = 262,500

core on an 80 725 x 425 = 308,125

So if the 80 series bottom 63mm of the radiator is used for trans cooler, then the radiator cooling ability should be the same.
 
I would try and get one with in/out on opposite sides, more efficient. My turbo 2H had a hard time keeping cool with same side in/out, so with a V8(I think that’s what you are putting in) I would try and get the most efficient radiator. I would see if you can find one for later model HZ/1HDFTE as they are about 2” longer on the bottom.
 
@StucknKS came by yesterday and helped me take off the cab, and pulled the engine. First time working on an LS motor. Had to YouTube several things to figure out how to make make them come apart..
I could not believe only three bolts on the torque converter to the flex plate!!! End of the day have the engine separated from the transmission. Need to take that to the transmission shop to adapt the output shaft to 2 wheel drive.

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now I am confused.... Going to see if I can get instructions from advance adapters for this adapter 50-9612. Do I need to do anything or not?

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With the L96 out, I can start looking at other issues. First up was that it had an external oil cooler. Not sure if I need it or not, assume not as the loads will be never be close to what that truck would tow, so planning on blocking it off. Found this kit.




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That Earls oil cooler block off is a joke, just grab the one of the other engine you have sitting there. They’re free from GM :lol:
I think I forgot to take a picture before I dropped the motor in yesterday but I think I have the best way to adapt the Toyota oil pressure sender to the LS. It’s a simple adapter that goes in place of the GM sender and the Toyota sender threads in. Keeps it nice and tucked away under the intake. You don’t need the GM sender because your ECU doesn’t read oil pressure
 
That Earls oil cooler block off is a joke, just grab the one of the other engine you have sitting there. They’re free from GM :lol:
I think I forgot to take a picture before I dropped the motor in yesterday but I think I have the best way to adapt the Toyota oil pressure sender to the LS. It’s a simple adapter that goes in place of the GM sender and the Toyota sender threads in. Keeps it nice and tucked away under the intake. You don’t need the GM sender because your ECU doesn’t read oil pressure
That’s what I did also. A lot of people seem to put down there at the oil pan for some reason.
 
That Earls oil cooler block off is a joke, just grab the one of the other engine you have sitting there. They’re free from GM :lol:
I think I forgot to take a picture before I dropped the motor in yesterday but I think I have the best way to adapt the Toyota oil pressure sender to the LS. It’s a simple adapter that goes in place of the GM sender and the Toyota sender threads in. Keeps it nice and tucked away under the intake. You don’t need the GM sender because your ECU doesn’t read oil pressure
I assumed the gm oil pressure sender was for live data in the ecu. Just read that it's only for the gm gauges. Is that correct?
 
I assumed the gm oil pressure sender was for live data in the ecu. Just read that it's only for the gm gauges. Is that correct?
yes. The Ecu doesn't have a clue about what's going on with oil pressure on Gen 3 or 4. I don't know about Gen 5
 
HEY, great news. Advance just confirmed that the 50-9612 kit will work with the 4WD 6l90 with no changes! You can also use the 2WD transmission, but then you have to cut off a portion of it.

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That Earls oil cooler block off is a joke, just grab the one of the other engine you have sitting there. They’re free from GM :lol:
I think I forgot to take a picture before I dropped the motor in yesterday but I think I have the best way to adapt the Toyota oil pressure sender to the LS. It’s a simple adapter that goes in place of the GM sender and the Toyota sender threads in. Keeps it nice and tucked away under the intake. You don’t need the GM sender because your ECU doesn’t read oil pressure

I am going to run this blockoff plate that has provisions for 1/8" NPT. Amazon product ASIN B00LV4IJSY
I believe the stock oil sender is 1/8 bsp, which is very close. I hope to be able to retap those threads or the oil sender itself to make that work. If not, a small thread adapter. I am going this route since I'll be running my engine with a Terminator X and will be able to data log oil pressure. Not a huge deal, but with very little trouble and cost, I figured why not. Either way, I'll have the oil pressure on the little holley 3.5" screen.
 
I am going to run this blockoff plate that has provisions for 1/8" NPT. Amazon product ASIN B00LV4IJSY
I believe the stock oil sender is 1/8 bsp, which is very close. I hope to be able to retap those threads or the oil sender itself to make that work. If not, a small thread adapter. I am going this route since I'll be running my engine with a Terminator X and will be able to data log oil pressure. Not a huge deal, but with very little trouble and cost, I figured why not. Either way, I'll have the oil pressure on the little holley 3.5" screen.

Yes in your case with the Holley you’ll actually use the GM sender. @2fpower is running the stock ECU so he won’t need it.

I would get one of the aftermarket fittings that go between the GM sender and block that are intended for turbo oil feeds and put it there. Having the Toyota sender stick off the side of the pan not only looks weird it gets in the way of exhaust and I’d consider it a hazard offroad, you could probably break it off with your hand

Side note, the difference between 1/8 NPT and 1/8 BSP (the Toyota sender) is 1 TPI. I have threaded the Toyota sender into aluminum NPT threads several times and it does completely fine without re-tapping.
 
This is what I’ve been using for my conversions, $9, thread in place of GM sender and thread Toyota sender into it. Done. Like I said it’s NPT but the difference is so minor it doesn’t matter, I let the steel sender and aluminum threads work it out amongst themselves

Amazon product ASIN B07NW1XKHR
 
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