Im not entirely sure one of Tuckers friends is doing all of the plating and powder coating.
Builds Tucker and Roma's 75 FJ40 Restore
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Im not entirely sure one of Tuckers friends is doing all of the plating and powder coating.
Amazing work. Love your thread.
thanks
In Phoenix at least, if you have a bunch of small parts they will do a "barrel" for 80.00. It's a good sized drum. All the bolts on an FJ40 would easily fit in it. It's cheaper for them to not hang parts individually and the common method to do very small parts
Dave I think Tucker is headed your way on the 14th to pick up a brush guard for this thing. If its good with you i'll get him to pick up that winch plate as well.
rear ambulance door strap on and Tucker got some new ambulance door keys and had the lock cylinder rekeyed.
welded some additional material to the latch where it was worn to tighten the carrier from rattling with the big heavy 33'' tire.
Turns out the heater core has been dripping a bit with the heater on so pulled it out confirmed its leaking by pressurizing with a bicycle pump and soapy water. Have a new heater core on order.
Rewired the inoperative tag light and added and ground wire sub harness to the tailgate
also dug into the wiper motor because it was only working on one speed and wouldnt park when shut off. I took it apart cleaned the contacts and brushes put it back together and both speeds started working but still no park. Tried a jumper harness from the wiper motor housing to the windshield hinge stainless bolts at the cowl and it parks! (wiper motor is grounded through the housing and windshield frame. Soo turns out since all the paint is fresh on the windshield frame it wasnt properly grounded. I made a sub harness from the wiper motor mounting screws that runs into the glove box and grounds theres. sorry no pics
Turns out the heater core has been dripping a bit with the heater on so pulled it out confirmed its leaking by pressurizing with a bicycle pump and soapy water. Have a new heater core on order.
Rewired the inoperative tag light and added and ground wire sub harness to the tailgate
also dug into the wiper motor because it was only working on one speed and wouldnt park when shut off. I took it apart cleaned the contacts and brushes put it back together and both speeds started working but still no park. Tried a jumper harness from the wiper motor housing to the windshield hinge stainless bolts at the cowl and it parks! (wiper motor is grounded through the housing and windshield frame. Soo turns out since all the paint is fresh on the windshield frame it wasnt properly grounded. I made a sub harness from the wiper motor mounting screws that runs into the glove box and grounds theres. sorry no pics
Might as well mention this...a few weeks ago Tucker drove the cruiser in to work and it came to a screeching halt on him in the parking lot. Engine was running fine but the truck wouldnt budge in any gear. I came out to look at it and came to the conclusion something happened in the rear end and caused it to lock up. At this point im thinking maybe the cross pin came loose some how. So we went got a bunch of tools and some car dollies so i could get it into a parking spot and tear into the rear end. Came back, jacked up the rear end and what do you know both the wheels are spinning fine. humm... i scratch my head and walk around to the front wheels and what do you know the hubs are locked! I unlocked the hubs and its rolling fine (i had assumed they were unlocked earlier hence why i suspected something in the rear end) So Tucker drove it home and a few days later i dug into the front end. Come to find out the hack thats been working on it didnt fill the diff with gear oil when he put it back together the pinion bearing got welded together. I remember specifically putting gear oil in the front of a yellow land cruiser but apparently it must have been mine since we had them both apart at the same time.
Also on the way home that fateful day Tucker said that the cruiser developed a skip at steady cruise and was back firing quiet a bit. Later that evening he decided to take it just for one more spin to get a bite to eat. It back fires so much that it blew a vacuum cap off the TBI unit and caused the truck to flood and stall out. He ended up walking home. Came back with a vacuum cap and put it on and drove it back home.
A few days later i started trouble shooting the skip and back firing issue. I initially installed a fuel pressure gauge and installed a permanent test port on TBI unit return output. However concluded fairly quickly that it wasnt a fuel issue but an ignition problem. What was kind of odd is that it wasnt a miss where it would miss on a cylinder but it was more of a skip as if all of them stopped firing momentarily. I checked all the connections at the ecm and connection at the battery and even suspected the electrical portion of the ignition switch. It was a bit trick to pin down because it was pretty intermittent and would only occur at a steady cruise. We pulled over at a gas station at one point and i opened the hood with it running and started wiggling wires. My hand brushed the distributor wire and the truck nearly died. woo hoo! I could move the wires coming out of the distributor and reproduce the skip in the engine. Apparently air turbulence under the hood while the truck was at cruising speed would move the wires and cause the skip. Took the "brand new" distributor apart that was part of the Affordable Fuel Injection "kit" what do you know one of the wires inside of it was spliced and had a bad solder joint that was corroded! I cut and soldered the wire put some dielectric grease on it and heat shrinked it back up. Now it runs better than it has yet. No more back firing and a bit better fuel mileage.
the pinion bearing got welded together. I remember specifically putting gear oil in the front of a yellow land cruiser but apparently it must have been mine since we had them both apart at the same time.Also on the way home that fateful day Tucker said that the cruiser developed a skip at steady cruise and was back firing quiet a bit. Later that evening he decided to take it just for one more spin to get a bite to eat. It back fires so much that it blew a vacuum cap off the TBI unit and caused the truck to flood and stall out. He ended up walking home. Came back with a vacuum cap and put it on and drove it back home.
A few days later i started trouble shooting the skip and back firing issue. I initially installed a fuel pressure gauge and installed a permanent test port on TBI unit return output. However concluded fairly quickly that it wasnt a fuel issue but an ignition problem. What was kind of odd is that it wasnt a miss where it would miss on a cylinder but it was more of a skip as if all of them stopped firing momentarily. I checked all the connections at the ecm and connection at the battery and even suspected the electrical portion of the ignition switch. It was a bit trick to pin down because it was pretty intermittent and would only occur at a steady cruise. We pulled over at a gas station at one point and i opened the hood with it running and started wiggling wires. My hand brushed the distributor wire and the truck nearly died. woo hoo! I could move the wires coming out of the distributor and reproduce the skip in the engine. Apparently air turbulence under the hood while the truck was at cruising speed would move the wires and cause the skip. Took the "brand new" distributor apart that was part of the Affordable Fuel Injection "kit" what do you know one of the wires inside of it was spliced and had a bad solder joint that was corroded! I cut and soldered the wire put some dielectric grease on it and heat shrinked it back up. Now it runs better than it has yet. No more back firing and a bit better fuel mileage.
installed this 4 plus brush guard and reciever hitch. I also added a sub harness and converter for a four flat connector without splicing any of the original harness.
Also installed a 23 gallon auxillary tank but have yet to finish the plumbing for it. Also need to install the a/c dryer and under dash unit. Tucker picked up a set of real steel bows and will be running with a soft top until we finish up the hard top. I'll have to post up some more photos of the tank, and mounting for it.
After a hundred plus mile test drive the cruiser developed a pretty substantial ignition miss under load. after chasing my tale for a day or two found the "new" distributor cap from affordable fuel injection that was supplied with the kit to be fualty. So we installed a new toyota cap and rotor and late model 87' plug wires that fit the large cap distributor a bit better. That seemed to take care of the miss but the truck still exhibited some minor back firing on deceleration while at cruising speed. We found a small exhaust leak between the manifold and down pipe, upstream of the o2. Thinking this may be the culprit we fixed the exhuast leak last night and took it for a spin. It seemed to run substantially better so Tucker took it for another test drive this morning.
Also installed a 23 gallon auxillary tank but have yet to finish the plumbing for it. Also need to install the a/c dryer and under dash unit. Tucker picked up a set of real steel bows and will be running with a soft top until we finish up the hard top. I'll have to post up some more photos of the tank, and mounting for it.
After a hundred plus mile test drive the cruiser developed a pretty substantial ignition miss under load. after chasing my tale for a day or two found the "new" distributor cap from affordable fuel injection that was supplied with the kit to be fualty. So we installed a new toyota cap and rotor and late model 87' plug wires that fit the large cap distributor a bit better. That seemed to take care of the miss but the truck still exhibited some minor back firing on deceleration while at cruising speed. We found a small exhaust leak between the manifold and down pipe, upstream of the o2. Thinking this may be the culprit we fixed the exhuast leak last night and took it for a spin. It seemed to run substantially better so Tucker took it for another test drive this morning.
Tucker made it home from the florida. 1041 miles round trip and averaged 13.xx miles per gallon considering the interstate cruising was at 70-75 i didnt think that was too bad.
soft top bow kit from real steel has been powder coated and waiting on paint. trollhole bimini top is ordered and hardtop is still getting repairs. I will try to finish up the a/c install this weekend.
That looks soooo good. The aux fuel door is perfect.
JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
cant wait to see that beautiful cruiser with FST 
post up here when you get the new top on >>>> https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/post-pics-of-your-oem-reproduction-top-fj4xs.247086/
post up here when you get the new top on >>>> https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/post-pics-of-your-oem-reproduction-top-fj4xs.247086/
1Fine40
Rust Buster
Very much enjoying your thread and build up. I am doing some serious repairs to my mustard 40 as well. Wondered what seam sealer you used to take care of those seams on the quarter panel replacement? Some kind of urethane?
Cheers!
Cheers!
thanks im not entirely sure. a friend of mine painted the parts so im not sure exactly what he used.
Couple of weeks ago i started back on the a/c install. i allready had the condensor and compressor mounted so the hardes part was allready done. Tucker picked the kit up from ccot. I have to make a custom bracket for the dryer.
Everything is done and hooked up with the a/c except for the thermo probe that needs to be ran to the evaporator and the system charged up. The cool cruiser kit had no written instruction or photos of where they want you to run the probe. After a few phone calls i was told there is a hole in the top of the evaporator case for the probe...so i'll have to drop the blower unit evaporator case down ONE more time to install the probe then off to my work so i can pull a good vacuum and charge it up. If anyone has installed this kit before any idea on oil and freon capacity?
Everything is done and hooked up with the a/c except for the thermo probe that needs to be ran to the evaporator and the system charged up. The cool cruiser kit had no written instruction or photos of where they want you to run the probe. After a few phone calls i was told there is a hole in the top of the evaporator case for the probe...so i'll have to drop the blower unit evaporator case down ONE more time to install the probe then off to my work so i can pull a good vacuum and charge it up. If anyone has installed this kit before any idea on oil and freon capacity?
Tucker got a bow kit from real steel and a bimini top from troll hole.
we powder coated the bow kit then had my friend paint the door surrounds and the windshield channel mustard. We were both very pleased with the bow kit since it required only very minor finagling to fit.
we powder coated the bow kit then had my friend paint the door surrounds and the windshield channel mustard. We were both very pleased with the bow kit since it required only very minor finagling to fit.
looks good 
is it just me, or are the headlights sticking out too much ? do you have the spacers behind the bezel ?
is it just me, or are the headlights sticking out too much ? do you have the spacers behind the bezel ?
Vae Victus
Posting more than I know
Looking great Roma!
Question - how are you getting > 5 photos per posting?
Question - how are you getting > 5 photos per posting?
Got the a/c finished and charged up a few weeks ago. I ended up wiring the blower motor straight to the battery using a fuse and relay for control. I may have a little bit too much oil in the system but it cools down pretty decen t going down the highway. I expecting a 4-10 degree drop from the blower vent once a hard top is in place. also powder coated the brackets we made for the dryer will try to get a picture of that.
1Fine40
Rust Buster
Nice work as always! Question on the ac unit: Does the cold only come out of the passenger side? How would the driver get any of the chilled air??
Thanks and Cheers!!
Thanks and Cheers!!
