This little Piggie had none.... an attempt to rebuild the 69 FJ55

[WarDamnEagle]

Have you started using ToyoDIY.com? It will show you all the parts in exploded diagrams with numbers. Very helpful.

Here's the radiator diagram for a 69 FJ55: ToyoDIY.com

 

[Thad55]

Have you started using ToyoDIY.com? It will show you all the parts in exploded diagrams with numbers. Very helpful.

Here's the radiator diagram for a 69 FJ55: ToyoDIY.com

Thanks for the link!

I was wondering if anyone has pictures of the lower radiator and how the heater hoses connect.

Mine has some funky T - not sure if that's the way its supposed to be.

 

[Thad55]

I have bleed the crap out of these brakes, single method, gravity method, and two-man method. Still don't have pedal. What the hell?
If I pump the the brakes two three times, I get pressure, but not on the first push.

 

[scrapdaddy]

I'd start with a new master.

 

[Thad55]

I'd start with a new master.

Its brand new.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Good, just asking, but did you bench bleed the master first?

 

[Ol Yeller]

I have bleed the crap out of these brakes, single method, gravity method, and two-man method. Still don't have pedal. What the hell?
If I pump the the brakes two three times, I get pressure, but not on the first push.

Frustrating as hell, start over with bleeding the master at this point, especially if it’s coming up after pumping.

Good luck

 

[Thad55]

Good, just asking, but did you bench bleed the master first?

Yes.

 

[J Mack]

Check your residual check valve.

 

[RUSH55]

If you’re having someone pump while you open and close the bleeders, make sure you’re going in the proper sequence. Double check your line routing to make sure you’re going from furthest to closest.

 

[Thad55]

Check your residual check valve.

The what?

 

[J Mack]

The what?

If you have drum brakes the springs will retract the brakes and push the fluid back into the master cylinder, doing what you are describing. Pumping the pedal will overcome this and give you a firm pedal until the fluid gets push back to the master.

I’m not familiar with Toyota’s system and can’t tell you if the check valve is in the master itself of if you have a brass block that will control the brake bias and have check's built in.





Towards the bottom of this page they talk about a “Residual Pressure Valve” for use in an aftermarket braking system. FYI I used the 10# valve when I still had drum brakes.



Wilwood Disc Brakes

 

[WarDamnEagle]

It appears to be in the Master: ToyoDIY.com

Part 47281-55010

However, I will be the first to admit I am far, far from an expert on brake systems.

 

[wngrog]

I rebuilt a 4 wheel drum brake system on my FJ45 with 100% new parts and it took me 2 weeks to get them adjusted.

Too much to type but the tech via some super smart dudes is in My Goat thread. Turn your phone sideways and signatures pop up. Link there.

 

[61twpw]

Is there a T at the lower radiator hose?

Here’s a picture of my 73 F engine lower radiator set up

 

[Thad55]

Here’s a picture of my 73 F engine lower radiator set up

View attachment 2056182

Thanks. That's kinda how mine is set up.

 

[Thad55]

You guys think it's ok to run a fuel pump relay off the ignition switch wire?

 

[J Mack]

Relay trigger yes.
Fuel pump power circuit should have it's own fused power source separate from anything else.

 

[Thad55]

Relay trigger yes.
Fuel pump power circuit should have it's own fused power source separate from anything else.

Fused separately, however, it should be off the ignition switch.

 

[J Mack]

Fused separately, however, it should be off the ignition switch.

Yes