Builds The Warthog - 1977/73 combo (3 Viewers)

[LAMBCRUSHER]

It's a double cab Diahatsu Deck Van we use around the farm. I've got a Suzuki pickup too. They replaced 4 wheelers and side by sides around here. Light and easy to fix.

and WAY safer...

 

[J Mack]

On the rear hatch. My drivers side needs to be pushed in slightly for the window to roll up and not hit my brand new bling weatherstrip.

What is the best way to tighten up that mechanism?

The tops of the window tracks are adjustable, under an oval rubber plug you’ll see a screw the rides in an oblong slot, loosen and move it in the direction you need to go.

Also confirm your striker plate on that side is adjusted correctly, you should hear or feel two distinct clicks when you push on that side to close, I had a similar issue with the driver’s side latching correctly and the passenger’s side being out of adjustment holding my tailgate slightly cattywampus.

 

[wngrog]

Mine is clicking once. I guess The striker plate it is.

 

[wngrog]

The striker on the tub can be canted down. I loosened and tilted it down.

Solid.

Now I know why the Tcase was almost empty. It's all leaking out the Ebrake.

That's a speedi sleeve fix or a new seal?

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

both maybe...might be better to have the thing welded and turned down. ih8-1piececases

 

[wngrog]

Man s***. This thing is a farm beater.

I'll try the speedy sleeve.

 

[wngrog]

Today I started putting the interior back in.

The old trim is kinda beat but I'm gluing it in as I go.

I got the passenger rear door area all done.

Got the correct tail lights installed. All the rear wiring is good.

The dash cap is glued down.

I tried to install the 8 track but it's too narrow for the space. I'll have to do that later.

 

[scrapdaddy]

That farm beater is turning out to be an up town cruiser! Keep up the good work.

 

[wngrog]

Big decision today.

Still going with it being a 20' truck but I'm going to get better front fenders.

I'm trying to work a deal to get 77+ hood and fenders with just lower 4" bad. Stay tuned

 

[fj55tlc]

Fenders are easy to repair, hoods are getting hard to find.

 

[wngrog]

Mine are not worth the effort because the lips have been cut off.

I'm going to get a set that is bad on the lower 4" and do the 3x4 rocker mod front to back.

 

[fj55tlc]

That too is a great idea. That is what I did to mine except I used 2x5 so I would have a little bit of a step and a smidgen more ground clearance.

 

[wngrog]

That too is a great idea. That is what I did to mine except I used 2x5 so I would have a little bit of a step and a smidgen more ground clearance.

Just read your thread. Says 2x6 I'm there. I like the look for a utility Pig like mine will be.

Also, how much did you spend rebuilding the 2F? My 60 needs it

 

[fj55tlc]

Yep, 2x6. bumpers are 2x5. Mine had a f1.5 and I had trouble finding rebuild parts that I was willing to run on it. I decided to have Redline find a 2f and balance, blue print, and make it their high performance 2f. I can tell you that while it runs crazy good and is extremely smooth, I have had to reseal almost every seal and gasket on it and while I paid about half of his advertised price, I would definitely not go that route again. Find a reputable machine shop that knows more engines than a 350 chevy and get the parts from Toyota. Do the rest of the work yourself and you will be much further ahead and more money in your pocket.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Utility Pig... has a good sound to it, I like it!

 

[Gordobe]

In January I did my own 2F build. Machine shop charged me $3,000. Included; sleeved and bored, new pistons, rods, rings. Ground lifters and cam. Cam bearings installed. Polished crank. Turned flywheel. New oil pump. Balanced; crank then crank/fly wheel then crank/flywheel/clutch plate then crank/flywheel/clutch plate/pulley. Balanced rods. Head had a previous valve job by them but they took it apart and refitted the valves. They tapped and plugged the oil galley access in head.

I then coughed up for gasket set. Main and rod babbits(bearings). Soft plugs. Clutch and plate. A few other misc items. About $1,500 I think.

I assembled the engine in a shop where there are 3 custom engine builders that watched my back. Lucky my!!!

Don't know what having someone doing the whole build would cost. Maybe 6k to 8k depending if they properly cleaned all the other component that attach to the engine. One company quoted 6k but thats not thoroughly cleaning the nuts, bolts and brackets.

 

[wngrog]

Drove around a bit today in it. Let my friend drive it

Running terribly rich. I was gonna start my desmog when I realized that neither my 40 (Tollhole carb) or 60 (desmog JimC carb) had anything close to this setup

It's a 1/2 ass desmog with EGR stuff still there. Air rail and smog pump gone already.

 

[G-Cat]

What color of paint are you gonna slap on it?

 

[wngrog]

What color of paint are you gonna slap on it?

Red and White. OEM

Slap paint.

That was the plan. Now. Maybe not.


Rust Free fenders and floor mat set traded to @cruisercorps for 2F hood and fenders that will let me do the 3x4 rocker mod.

 

[G-Cat]

I figured this would head the way of a concours resto...

This ridiculous box will be on the slowest boat I can find come Monday.