Builds The Trail Snail Build | Above Average Overlandish (1 Viewer)

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Things I did before Moab 2016:
  • Replaced wheel bearings and front DS spindle
  • Replaced gauge cluster and used LED's (Tach still not working suspect wiring harness)
  • Purchased and mounted new 35" spare
  • drained and filled diffs x2
  • installed temp gauge on transmission line / bypassed transmission pre-heater
  • Installed Yeasu 2900 FT for APRS
  • Replaced spark plugs with NGK
  • Replaced denso wires with NGK wires
  • New CB antenna an Coax
Things that are on order or awaiting installation
  • 2 Cats
  • 2 O2 Sensors
  • remaining front wiring harness as highlighted below
  • ICM
  • Ignition Coil
  • Canon 5D Mk ii
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Interesting development:

In trying to get rid of my rough idle and occasional lack of power I replaced my ignition control module (ICM or ignitor). I did and started up the rig, for about 5 seconds my tach was working! Then it died again... this is the first time its worked since it died a year ago.

So I am definitly leaning toward my issue being wire related. Anyway I figured it may have been a loose connection or broken wire so I started to move the harness around near the ICM. No change, tach still dead. But I noticed that when I touched the ICM I was getting small pulsating shocks in rhythm with the engine RPM's.

Soooo Harness? I do have a replacement harness the only issue is this is the under dash harness... So its going to be a dash out weekend...... Oh well I guess its time to commence OPERATION ERADICATE PO's s***TY WIRING PHASE 3.
 
So here is the story.

We went to Moab on Thursday night, across the I70 pass the temps were at a happy 86 (all temps are in Celsius) then on long climbs they would peak up to 89. On the downhill side the temps would come back down nicely.

So in moab we wheeled and I wheeled hard, I did manage to gain some trail damage from the Escalator at Hells Revenge, pictures to come. Had a blast in Lockhart Canyon, then made it back into town mid Monday. I did the obligatory "nuts and juices" check and noticed that the coolant in the overflow bottle was a bit murkier than it usually was but didn't think much about it.

So we hopped on the road, I drove 200 miles at the speed limit (80mph in Utah) which meant that it was living in 3rd gear maybe 70% of that time. But I was also keeping an eagle's eye on my koso temp gauge, if it got to 89 degrees I backed off. And even then 89 only showed up on long uphill grades so nothing out of the norm.

We made it into Glenwood Springs and stopped for fuel. I did another "nuts and juices" check and noticed that my overflow bottle had filled up and was above the max mark. Again the fluid looked a bit murkier, but since I had been running her hard I didn't think much of it.

We hopped back on the road and drove for another 47 miles then about two miles before Edwards I noticed my koso gauge hit 89, "I thought huh thats warm, I'm not even on a big climb". So I flipped on both front and rear heaters full blast. At this point I was keeping a close watch on the gauge about a mile before the Edwards exit I watched it go. 89, 90, 91,92,94,96,99,102,104... When I saw it hit 90 I knew something was wrong my eyes swept the gauge cluster, still had oil pressure... good, then I looked out the passenger side mirror and saw the tactical smoke screen that the old girl let loose to conceal her failure..... When I noticed this the temp gauge was passing 96 degrees C. Shifted into Neutral and shut her down.

Last I saw was 104 on the gauge. Luckily I was able to coast it off the interstate and into a parking lot. My crew which was following me rolled up with coolant all over their windshields. I checked for broken hoses but saw none so I knew right away what it was. We all started moving my belongings from the old girl to other rigs which took probably 30 mins. At this time one of my friends friend had concluded that it had just overheated, knowing nothing of these rigs he went and bumped the starter.

I heard the unmistakable sound of an engine trying to compress the uncompressable. Luckily he just bumped it, hopefully he didn't do any damage. I, like the old girl was a little hot at this time.


Oh well such is life. I'm going to get her tonight and like you guys have mentioned, this will open up a lot of access to take care of the other issues. And I still had a killer time in Moab.
 
One hell of a tow rig! Haha. Glad you got your baby home. My HG let loose just minutes from home and for that I felt fortunate. Now ,an OEM HG and ARP studs for the win. Keep us posted too.
 
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Head gasket Report:

She's been sitting on the street since I got back from Moab. Tonight I took off the fan, fan shroud, belts, then I drained the oil. When I took the drain plug out the first 15 or so seconds it was draining straight coolant. While I let it drain I pulled the spark plugs out, then put the pan plug in filled it with a cocktail of oil (needed to get rid of a bunch of various visc. oils that had been gathering in my garage) and cranked it over. Cyl 4 shot out a crap load of coolant, so I kept cranking her over till she was clear.

Nothing sounded out of place or weird when I was cranking her over so that was good. So at this point I put the spark plugs and EFI fuse back in and turned her over. After a couple cranks she fired right up and purred like a kitten.

What a good thing to hear, I miss her heartbeat.

Next step is to drive the old girl 20 ft into the garage and start the tear down for the HG replacement.
 
Drove her into the garage and started the tear down.

First night; Hood, intake, throttle body, PAIR system, heat shields and valve cover removed.
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Second night;
Upper / lower intake manifold, fuel rail, and headers removed, cleaned block as best I could. It looks like the center of the block got the hottest.
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The work bench,
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Where I've left her for the evening.
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Should I get headers? Is it worth it?

IMO, no. The stock manifold and down pipe are nice pieces that seal really well. I was really impressed with the engineering on these engineswhen I did my top end rebuild. I spent my $$ on getting the manifolds and down pipes ceramic coated. It has helped keep the heat down and has held up well.
 
Well I think I speak for most of us when I say "ben there" with the HG ! That sucks and unless you PM it then its never a good time for it to go. However, I'd be pretty proud of my truck for getting me through Moab and back to the highway before letting go. Could have been a big pain in the ass for you if it had gone out on the trail. I can't remember who it was here that recommended carrying a bottle of HG sealant when you go out but I'm starting to think it would be a good way to invest $50.

On a completely unrelated not, what brand is that green tool roll you have in the above picture ?
 
Got the head off without drama. Crosshatching is still visible in the the cylinders, and the HG didn't look too bad. But there was a break in the fire ring at the front of cylinder 1. Carbon build up was very very minimal which makes me think its been running lean (non-functioning O2 sensors) and because of that possibly hot.

Head is now at Gunn Automative in Denver, they came highly recommended by the local cruiser community. I called them up and they were very knowledgeable about the 1fz-fe head. When I took it in Kenny gave it a quick inspection and noted that he thought cylinder 1 had coolant intrusion because the combustion side of the cyl 1 head was 'steam cleaned'. Kenny stated that they do 1fz-fe heads all the time (I saw 3 tagged and sitting on a bench witing for work) and he commonly see's failures of the gasket at cyl 1 as well as cyl 6. He also said that since these valves don't have dampers that they close hard on the head which after a while blows out the seat.

Quote for headwork:
  • $300 Valve job (seats checked and ground, guides replaced)
  • $250 Set clearance and lash on valves (required after valve job)
  • $80 just to clean and plane the head (if I decided not to do the valves)
He said since I brought it in all broke down and fairly clean he would do it for 600 but it could increase if further damage is found. He said if he found further damage he would call me before proceeding, also I could come down to the shop so he could show me what was wrong.

So he passed the interview and I left the head with him sure 6 bills is more than I expected but you've got to pay for precision.

Photos:

Cam's out
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Head off
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Cyl 1 with the damage to the fire ring.
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Cyl 1,2,3 right to left
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Overview from passenger side
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Out of focus shot of combustion side of cyl head. Intake valves are tan, exhaust valves are black.
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Cyl head 1-6 (1 is at bottom of photo) its hard to tell by the s***ty picture but the combustion dome of 1 is cleaner than the rest.
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Odd marks on cyl 4 wall, cannot feel anything noticeable when I run my finger over it... Not sure what this mark is?
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I spent today scraping gaskets and replacing the Engine Room Main Harness. Also I've decided that the rig is going to be monstalined before I get it back on the road.

The Engine Room Main Harness is this one, however it actually stops at the fuse box.
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Disassembly
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ARB compressor removed in anticipation of Dual Battery Setup;
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Before the new harness went in
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Bringing the new harness in behind the old harness
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New Engine Room Main Harness in.
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