Builds The Trail Snail Build | Above Average Overlandish (1 Viewer)

[on the rocks]

It’s a custom fabrication by colorado drive line. They used one of my spare oem front shafts to build it. I needed it quick because my standard driveshaft was making a terrible racket and I’ve got a ~800 mile round trip coming up.

$375 and one day turn around was well worth it.

Out of Greeley? Man that is a good price. They did my rear and have been really happy with it but have heard it has some slop in the slip yoke I cant seem to find. That's less than half the cost of a SLEE. Do they still have the spare to build another from if I hit them up? looking for one soon here,

 

[SmokingRocks]

Out of Greeley? Man that is a good price. They did my rear and have been really happy with it but have heard it has some slop in the slip yoke I cant seem to find. That's less than half the cost of a SLEE. Do they still have the spare to build another from if I hit them up? looking for one soon here,

Yep, they did my rear shaft and it’s done well. I did have one of their shafts go bad after 500 miles but they repaired it at no cost. So I can’t fault them.

I got a lower price because I supplied the standard sides u joint. I think it’s close to 400 if you have them take ur front driveshaft and make it a DC.

they take your factory shaft and splice on a DC end. So there’s nothing left at the shop, it all came back to me.

 

[Feldrian]

Yep, they did my rear shaft and it’s done well. I did have one of their shafts go bad after 500 miles but they repaired it at no cost. So I can’t fault them.

I got a lower price because I supplied the standard sides u joint. I think it’s close to 400 if you have them take ur front driveshaft and make it a DC.

they take your factory shaft and splice on a DC end. So there’s nothing left at the shop, it all came back to me.

What do they use for the DC? Toyota or do you now have Spicer 1310s in the DC end?

 

[SmokingRocks]

I have Toyota U joints at the standard side and 1310's 5-153x in the DC. Not that worried about it honestly, I can always carry spare 1310's or just carry my spare front driveshaft.

I decided to make a panhard bracket today, glad to have a good friend who's a machinist.

 

[baldilocks]

Is that a front dc driveline or rear? I’ve been running 1310 Life Series joints front and rear DC joints about 7 years now. You won’t break them. My front one is still good. I rotate out two rear drive lines every oil change as I like to keep a spare rear with. After about 35k and lots of rock crawling on 37’s both rear 1310 rear DC joints were getting sloppy. Had them rebuilt - cried a little bit and then got on with it.

The good news is that Tom Woods drivelines should, by now, be out with a 1350 set up for us.

 

[SmokingRocks]

my DC is for the front, my rear pinion angle is set up for a standard driveshaft. Although I'm sure with my 4" lift it would benefit from having a DC there too.

 

[Feldrian]

The good news is that Tom Woods drivelines should, by now, be out with a 1350 set up for us.

Nice - Definitely keeping that in mind! Certainly a lot easier joint to find than the OEMs.

 

[SmokingRocks]

Rear Battery Bank Renovation

The 35ah deep cycle in the box has gotten tired so after lots of research and several expensive late nights on the Amazon, I've got a new system that I'm putting together.

(3) x RoyPow S1218 LiFePO4 batteries, each has 18 AH reserve capacity so the rear bank will have more usable capacity than my group 27 x2power dual-purpose batteries.
(1) Renogy DC-DC charge controller with MPPT solar converter (replaces my Victron Energy SmartSolar MPPT 75V 15 amp 12/24-Volt Solar Charge Controller)

 

[SmokingRocks]

layout and routing takes a long ass time. But a clean end result is always worth it.

 

[SmokingRocks]

Final layout / one-line diagram for the revised rear battery bank

So lets break down the cost of this system and the pros / cons vs a new larger deep cycle battery:

Cost

Lithium Battery Option​

ITEM	PRODUCT INFO	COST	Notes
Battery - 18 amp-hour reserve	RoyPow S1218 | LiFePO4 Battery with Built-in Battery Management System	$110	Amazon buy, $20 discount with Honey app
Battery - 18 amp-hour reserve	RoyPow S1218 | LiFePO4 Battery with Built-in Battery Management System	$110	Amazon buy, $20 discount with Honey app
Battery - 18 amp-hour reserve	RoyPow S1218 | LiFePO4 Battery with Built-in Battery Management System	$110	Amazon buy, $20 discount with Honey app
DC-DC Charge Controller	Renogy DCC30s with MPPT Controller	$212	Amazon (memorial day sale 15% off)
MPPT Solar Charge Controller	Victron Energy SmartSolar MPPT 75|15	($100)	sold for $100
	Total:​	$412

Sealed Lead Acid Deep Cycle Option​

ITEM	PRODUCT INFO	COST	NOTES
Battery - 76 amp-hour reserve	X2Power BCI Group 24M 12V AGM	$350	60 lbs, largest amp-hour reserve for an SLA battery that would fit in the rear box
	Total:​	$350

Sure I could have used a cheaper true deep cycle battery for this cost comparison. But to do it properly I'd still need to get a charge controller to charge and maintain the different battery types.

Lithium PROs​	Lithium CONs​
~30% more usable amp-hour capacity than the SLA battery	Upfront cost
Rated for 3500+ cycles | 10 Years	Requires DC-DC charge controller to charge and maintain bank
Should retain 80% of charge capacity after 2,000 cycles	Can't charge below 32* F (0*C)
Can be used to 80% depth of discharge repeatedly without impacting life expectancy
Discharge voltage remains constant as the state of charge decreases
15 lbs total weight (all three batteries)
Built-in BMS with Low temp charge cut-off, low voltage disconnect, overcurrent protection
Ability to quickly recharge when depleted

AGM Deep Cycle PROs​	AGM Deep Cycle CONs​
Cheaper initial cost​	4x heavier than the LiFePO4 option (60 lbs)
No need for a special charger if matched with other batteries it's being charged with	Loses 20% of charge capacity after only 200 cycles
	Easily damaged / life shortened if taken below 50-80% depth of charge
	Discharge voltage decreases as the state of charge decreases
	Recharges slowly

Examining all of the info and cost lead me to choose Lithium over sealed lead-acid. I'm happy with this decision and am excited to see how it works out.

 

[SmokingRocks]

The new system ran flawlessly for the last 4 days out in Lockhart Basin, both fridges were set to and held 30° F (-1°C) throughout the 90°F (32°C) days. Even floated up the front house and starting batteries after about 3 hours of direct sunlight on the panels. I was also charging USB speakers and phones off the rear power ports, using the water pump on occasion, and running my tailgate lights in the evening.

I really need the Bluetooth module to come in for tracking since bank voltage is no longer an accurate metric for gauging the LiFePO4 banks' state of charge.

Also got a Slumberjack Awning and I can't recommend it enough.

 

[GeoRoss]

The new system ran flawlessly for the last 4 days out in Lockhart Basin, both fridges were set to and held 30° F (-1°C) throughout the 90°F (32°C) days. Even floated up the front house and starting batteries after about 3 hours of direct sunlight on the panels. I was also charging USB speakers and phones off the rear power ports, using the water pump on occasion, and running my tailgate lights in the evening.

I really need the Bluetooth module to come in for tracking since bank voltage is no longer an accurate metric for gauging the LiFePO4 banks' state of charge.

Also got a Slumberjack Awning and I can't recommend it enough.
View attachment 2691099

I really like my Slumberjack tarp too. I've been really been surprised how stable it is in the wind.

 

[SmokingRocks]

Some photos from Moab

 

[SmokingRocks]

Made an extension for my rear switch panel. This panel started as a 4 slot switch plate that had a USB charge port, hatch light switch, storage bay light switch, and water pump switch. Now I've added a battery compartment heater & ventilation controller, Lithium Battery meter, & water bladder heater switch.

 

[SmokingRocks]

Just needs a splash of paint and it's done!

 

[SmokingRocks]

After years of driving around an AC compressor that's not hooked up, I've finally decided to take the plunge and convert it to an Air Compressor.

Here's the parts list:
Tank: VIAIR 2.5 Gallon Tank
Oiler: ARO L36231-100-VS Air Line Lubricator
Oil Separator: ARO F35231-400-VS Air Line Filter
Check Valve: Control Devices P2525-1WA Brass Ball Check Valve
175psi Safety Valve: Midwest Control SP25-175 ASME Soft Seat Safety Valve
Tank Drain: Powermate Vx 072-0020RP Tank Drain Valve
Pressure Switch: Air Pressure Switch 110-140 PSI
Regulator: MINI PRESSURE REGULATOR
Pressure Guage: GlowShift 200 PSI Mechanical Dual Air Pressure Gauge
3/8" OD Poly Tubing
Various Fittings
Manifold for ARB solenoids

Stay tuned

 

[SmokingRocks]

Welp, some things have come up which has put my On-Board Air refresh on hold.

Lets start with my audi A7, which after coming back from my very relaxing quite expensive 10-day vacation I managed to completely *** up. I'm 99% positive that I skipped its timing chain, since it's such a complicated engine and the timing chain is on the firewall side I've decided to just tap out and send it to my buddy's shop for repairs. He informed me that the book says it is a 30-hour job + parts to just service the timing chain and tensioners since it's an engine-out procedure. That's about $4,000 in labor alone, lets just hoping that I didn't bend a valve.

On top of that, the cruiser wouldn't disengage its CDL, the front diff is leaking badly at the housing seal, the house battery from 2016 has checked out, and the rear shocks are literally only there for show at this point. Luckily I have my Camry to run around in otherwise I'd be a much sadder kitten.

In light of hurricane Dick Punch blasting me in the face, I sadly had to push my dirt bike purchase to next year. Annnnnnnd while I'm quite hesitant to consider attempting a 30-hour, engine-out job on my Audi, I am confident in my abilities to wrench on the old trail snail, so I've squared the old girl up in the sights of my repair cannon and am releasing the first salvo this week.

Here is a list of what I'm doing/taking care of:

• Deep Douche of the entire underbody and frame to remove 5 years of caked-on oil/mud which has turned into some kind of rust-inhibiting concrete
• New deep cycle house battery 95AH
• Transfer Case Rebuild / Service
  
  • Solve the stuck CDL issue
  • Replace the front output bearing & seal
  • Replace the rear output bearing & seal
  • Replace the Speedometer O ring
• Transmission Rear Output Seal Replacement
• Shift Linkage Bushings Refresh
• Shifter Boot Replacement
• Rear Shocks Replacement (Dobinson IMS's are on indefinite back order so I have their yellows coming)

Then I can pinch the pennies for my Audi.

Here we go

 

[SmokingRocks]

Well, I think I've located the cause of the stuck center differential...

The harness clip had broken and the loom flopped against the exhaust.

Good to see the gasket hung in there.

**Two Hours of Powerwashing Later**

So as I stated earlier the harness had flopped against the exhaust, so it was pretty brittle and melted. I cut a bunch of it back, patched in new color-matched wires shod in high temp sleeves.

 

[SmokingRocks]

Replaced my transmission tunnel rubber shift boot since the links were disconnected already.

Got the rear shocks off. These puppies are tired, rest easy old boys.

 

[SmokingRocks]

New battery is in, I made some copper bus bars to make this unit work without chopping wires.

T-case is fully apart, ready for the parts washer.